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B and W Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2010 Ram 2500

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How to Install the B and W Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2010 Ram 2500


On this 2010 Ram 2500, we're going to show you part number BWGNRK1313. This is the B&W Turnover Underbed Gooseneck trailer hitch. This is what the hitch looks like when it's installed in our truck. We're looking at the driver's side right now and to operate it, there's a handle that's right here. You pull up and twist towards the front. That will unlock the pin so you can remove the ball or another accessory.

To lock the ball back into place, move it towards the back of the truck and allow it to snap back into place. It's spring loaded. I can demonstrate like this. Let's go ahead and see what it looks like in the bed of the truck. This is what the hitch ball looks like when it's installed in our truck. When the pin's locked in place, you cannot move it.

Then when we unlock it, we can take the ball out, keep it inside the truck, or we can store it inside the hitch. Release the pin, it stays locked into place. On each side of our hitch are our safety chain loops. They're spring loaded, so they stay down when not needed and of course they have tension on them and you can pull them up and put your safety hooks into them. A few quick notes about the install on the hitch is that it does require a four-inch hole drilled into the bed of the truck and also some half-inch holes for our U-bolts. Anything below the bed of the truck and on the frame does not require drilling and uses existing holes.

We can use this for a variety of accessories as well. The fifth wheel trailer adaptor, the B&W companion hitch adaptor, will pull a fifth wheel trailer. You could also add a ladder rack that leaves your truck bed and siderails free as well. This is rated for a 7,500-pound tongue weight, which is the weight that pushes down on the ball, and also the pull weight is going to be 30,000 pounds. Always double check with your owner's manual to make sure your vehicle can handle these kinds of weights. We'll go ahead and show you how we installed it on this truck.

We need to go ahead and get our truck ready to do that. A couple of things to do, if you can, lift up the truck so the suspension hangs down. It makes things a lot easier to get around underneath the truck and install the parts. Also, remove the spare tire. Our truck doesn't have a spare tire with it, so we won't have to worry about that. We'll also go ahead and lower the exhaust and remove the fender wall liners. We'll do that next. Our truck has an aftermarket exhaust installed, but the steps are going to be the same. We'll go ahead and remove it from the hanger here and allow it to hang down. To remove from the hanger, there's a little clip right here. We need to work it off the end. I'm using some needle-nose pliers to help work it off. There. We'll spray the hanger down with some lubricant and we'll go ahead and push, pull, pry it off. We can do the same thing for the two factory hangers right here and lower it down. In this case, since we have an aftermarket exhaust, we're actually going to take ours apart at the clamp here and take it totally out of our way. Next step is to go ahead and remove the fender liners and these will go back in of course when we're done. There will be a series of bolts that we can remove, or screws, using an eight-millimeter socket. Basically, you have to wrestle these out. It's kind of like a bedliner, how they pop in. You just got to pop them back out. This will be our driver's side. We'll repeat the same process over on the passenger side. Next up, our hitch needs a hole drilled in the bed of the truck. We'll find the center of our truck and measure up from the edge of the bed towards the cab. There are two different measurements for an eight-foot bed and anything shorter than an eight-foot bed, so make sure you use the correct one. From the edge of the bed, not counting the tailgate, we'll measure up, make our mark, and then we'll make sure it's equal left to right. I like to use the seams on the sides to measure against. Now I'll go ahead and drill out a very small pilot hole first. Anything small will work. Now we'll go up to a quarter-inch hole and that will be our pilot hole for our hole saw. One handy trick is to actually use a piece of plywood with a four-inch hole already drilled through it. It will help hold it and keep it in place. Next we need to move to the passenger side and inside the fender wall here, on this body work for the bed, we need to enlarge this hole right here into a triangle shape so we can install our crossrails. The top of our hole will be the top of our mark, maybe a little bit higher and then about an inch and a quarter length on the bottom. We'll notch that out. At this point, our truck is ready to install the hitch. We'll go ahead and continue putting our crossrail in here. We'll slide it in. You want to make sure that this edge right here of this notch will end up sitting on the bed and this flat edge here, this will be going towards the top, once it's in proper place with the hitch. It will help to go underneath the truck to help balance it and push it to the other side. Once the crossrail is on top, we'll go ahead and just pull it towards the back for now. Now we'll go ahead and take our second crossmember and we'll go ahead and slide it into place. It might help to go underneath of it and twist it to help work it in inside the slot. Now we'll flip our bar back up vertical like this. We want to end up with the threads going towards the floor of the bed of the truck. Now we're almost ready to install our center section. To help us do that, you're definitely going to need an extra set of hands. One way to do it is use a strap with some hooks on it and you can pick it up by the pin in the center that way. The opening's offset will go towards the front and the hardware that will go through the front will use the inch-and-a-half long bolts with a lock washer and a flat washer. They'll install from the inside into the crossbar. It's a little bit easier to see it now than when it's underneath the truck. For an angled crossbar that goes towards the back, it would get the same bolt and hardware, just a little bit different arrangement. Bolt and a flat washer will go through and then through the crossbar and then I'll follow up with a lock washer and a nut. Let's get this in position underneath our truck. We'll push this end up through the hole in the bed of our truck. Once we have it in place, we'll go ahead and install our hardware. I won't tighten it down just yet. We need it loose so we can move the bar around as needed. We'll go ahead and bring our other bar up to our center section, or our hitch, and install the rest of the hardware. Remember an oval slot will get a bolt and a flat washer and the inside will get the lock washer and a nut. Now our cross section is supported by our crossrails here. Now, again, we want to have these on the loose side so we have enough room to install our side plates that go onto the frame of the truck. It will help to have these to be able to move just a little bit. Now I'll go ahead and move on to our side plates. We'll work with our driver's side first. That will be the most complicated of the two. The only main difference is is that we have to remove this bolt for this bracket for the parking brake cable. We'll do that using a 13-millimeter socket. We'll let that sit out of the way for now. Now let's install our piece of hardware. The hardware needs to install with this carriage bolt and this long block. These two will fit together inside our frame like this. To help us install it, it comes with a very nice, long bolt leader which we'll run through the hole and out towards the back of the frame, by the rear suspension. Then there will be a hole at the bottom of the frame we can get to. This is our access hole right here, by the spring in the back towards the bumper. We'll take our block, thread it through and push it in the frame and then we'll take our carriage bolt and thread that into the spring. We'll push that into the frame and we'll pull it out the hole. Let's take our side plate. We'll take our bolt leader and run it through the hole's frame plate at the very end. Between the crossmembers, we'll pull our bolt through. We'll let that sit for now. Then we'll put a bolt through here in the top. This side we'll add our flat washer, lock washer and nut. For our forward bolt, we'll go ahead and remove the bolt leader and we'll install a nut and lock washer. Then up here, we'll add a flat washer, lock washer to our bolt and thread it into the front crossmember. Everything's still loose. We want to go ahead and install our U-bolt right here. Our U-bolt will install from the inside and with the nuts and lock washers on the outside. When looking at the driver's side frame rail on the inside, we've got a U-bolt here that needs to go around the frame and the wire harness is a little bit in the way, so we just got to make sure we just maneuver it around the wire harness to make sure it doesn't pinch. We'll go ahead and put our hardware back onto the U-bolts on the other side, lock washer and nut. Now with this hardware installed, we'll go ahead and take our bracket for our parking brake cable, and we can put that back into place as well. Now we'll go ahead and do the repeat same process over on our passenger side; however, it's going to be a little bit different, less steps. Basically, we put it on here just like we did before. Our bolt right here, our bolts on the crossmembers or crossbars, and then our U-bolt here. We don't have to worry about any wire harnesses on the back side of the frame on the passenger side. It's relatively straightforward. Now, with all our hardware installed, we'll tighten down our bolts to the crossmembers first. Now with these bolts tightened, we'll go ahead and take a moment to square the hitch. We'll make sure it's square with the frame of the truck. To square our hitch, we'll use this edge of the frame plate and this edge on the frame here. We will make this measurement the same on both sides. We'll move the hitch as needed forward or backwards on each side to make sure it's even. Once our hitch is square, we don't have too much movement because of our ground cable right here and this bolt going through the slot. We'll go ahead and tighten down this one first and then our U-bolts. When we tighten our U-bolts, we want to make sure we tighten them down evenly on both sides. We'll do the same thing on the other side now. Now to rod this bolt down, it's probably easiest to use a ratcheting wrench. We're using a three-quarter-inch wrench on all of our bolts as well as a three-quarter-inch or a 19-millimeter socket will work as well. Now we'll go ahead and torque down our bolts as specified in the instructions. With all the bolts torqued down on our hitch, now we're ready to install the handle for our locking pin. This is our handle. We're going to rod it through the hole located right here and towards the outside of the truck through this cut-out. We'll take this loop on the handle, put it to this side of the flange. We'll add the short carriage bolt and then a lock nut behind it. We'll tighten that down with a half-inch or a 13-millimeter socket. Moving on to our safety chain U-bolts, they will install in these two holes here. There is two sets. Just make sure you use the set of holes where this will drop down to the bottom of the corrugation. I'm going to mark the holes using a half-inch drill bit and then I'll make a pilot hole and then we'll come back down from the top with our larger bit into our final hole size. Now we'll take our pilot holes and we'll enlarge them to half-inch size. Now I'm going to use a set bit to help kind of clean off the edges around our holes. We'll drop our U-bolts into place and install the rest of the fasteners underneath. Our hardware that goes below will be the spring and a lock nut. Once that's done, repeat on the other side. Now we'll tighten this down with three-quarter-inch socket and leave about two or three threads behind the nut. It will be good enough. At this point, we can go ahead and reinstall our exhaust and also our fender liner on the passenger side. We'll have to make some minor modifications to the fender liner on the driver's side. Now with our fender well back in place on our driver's side, it covers up our handle. Basically, we'll get a feel for where it's at and we'll cut out enough material to make room to operate it. We'll go ahead and cut out this material, give it a few tries. If we need to, we'll take out more. We can use some tin snips and a sharp knife to make our cuts. That will finish it for a B&W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck trailer hitch with custom install kit, part number BWGNRK1313 on this 2010 Ram 2500.


Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Zack K
Video Edited:
Zack K
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Michael B
Installed by:
Michael B

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