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Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2012 Ram 3500

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How to Install a Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2012 Ram 3500


Speaker 1: Today on our 2012 Ram 3500, we'll be having a look at, and installing the BMW turnover ball, under bed, gooseneck trailer hitch for custom installation kit, part number BWGNRK1313. This is what our BMW gooseneck system looks like installed. As you'll notice, this is a completely under bed system, which gives us more room in the bed of our truck. And this is what it looks like topside. Our BMW head here, sits flush with the upper level of the corrugation in the bed of our truck. Same with our safety chain loops right here.So what that means, is when you have your ball in the stored position, you can still have full access to the bed of your truck, so you can easily lay down a sheet of drywall, or plywood, or any other materials that you may have without losing any valuable space.

Our safety chain loops here are spring loaded, so once you have your safety chain hooked on, it'll pull back down. And once you release it, it'll spring back, and you still have your full access to your bed.Now, one of the neat things about the BMW gooseneck, is you can store the ball in it upside down, so it's there for when you need it, but out of the way when you're not using it. You simply just grab on this little handle here, pull straight up. Flip it over. Reinstall it.

Release your lock handle, and you're ready to go.Now, this 2-5/16 ball, with our gooseneck system has a towing capacity of 30,000 pounds and a vertical load limit of 7,500 pounds. You want to consult with the owner's manual of your Ram and not exceed what the rated capacity is on the truck itself. This system is capable of towing more than what the truck actually is. Now when you've arrived at your destination, and you've unhooked from your trailer, once you've unhooked your safety chain loops, those spring back down, you can pull the handle in the driver's side wheel well of the truck, pull your ball on up. Grab hold of the handle here.

And put the ball back in the stored position.Now, or ball is secured into place with a pin that goes through it all the way. And that keeps it secured in the towing and the storage position. This is our handle in the driver's side wheel well of our truck. This is what we use to release the latch, which holds our ball in place. To release, simply pull straight out, turn clockwise, and it'll hold open so you can hop in the bed of your truck and maneuver your ball in the position you need it, either the stored, or the tow position.Once you have it in the position you want it, just grab our handle, turn counterclockwise, and it's spring loaded, to lock into place.

Now that we've gone over some features of our BMW gooseneck system, we'll show you how to get it installed.Now, we're going to mark where we're going to drill our four inch diameter hole in the bed of our truck. It's very critical when we do these measurements that we do not measure from the end of the tailgate, but we measure from the end of the bed itself. Now, you can find these measurements in the instructions, make sure you pick the right ones for your particular length of your truck.Okay, I already have our spot marked out here. So I'm just going to drill a pilot hole to start, right in the center. Okay, with our pilot hole made, we now use our hole saw, in a large and to the final size. Right now, it's a good idea to take some paint, either spray full armor or touch up paint, or paint marker, whatever you have, and go along the edge and around where you cut your hole. This way you don't have to worry about any rust happening over time.Now, since our truck is white, and we don't have a spray in bed liner, we can't exactly just use black spray paint, so I'm going to use some clear coat instead. You can use this on any color, doesn't matter, and I'll prevent rust from occurring in the future. Alright, now, some trucks may or may not have some variation of a whee liner. Our truck is a dually, and does have a wheel liner, and has a removal center section right here.We need to remove this center section. In order to do that, we have two plastic push pin fasteners at each corner. The way these work, you unscrew the center section with a Phillips screwdriver. You pull then center section out. Pull back. And the clip will just release. Sometimes you can just pull the whole clip out. Once you have that out, you can just grab your handle here, lift off and it'll unhook itself.We went ahead and removed that panel on the driver's side as well. Now, on our passenger side, I went ahead and made the mark around the large diameter in our bed flange right here, that we're needing to trim out. You can cut this out with a grinder, a cutoff wheel, or rotary tool. You could possible even cut it out with a pair of tin snips. It is a little thick though, so you might, if you have a good pair, you might be able to do it. I'll be using a rotary tool.Now, this is our front rail. You'll see that we have several threaded holes in it. It's a good idea to run a bolt in and out of it a few times, to help clean up any powder coating that may be on the threads. That way, when you raise your center section on up, it bolts into this rail nice and smoothly. You'll also notice, at the end, we have a hole that's further towards one end of the rail. You want to have this hole closest to the bed of the truck, so it's going to be facing up, just like this.So, we'll slide our rail in position. Go in sideways like this. Go across our frame rails. And once it's over both frame rails, we can flip it on up. So, now with our hole facing towards the bed of the truck, we'll slide this on forward. Okay, this is our rear rail, this is going to be the top side of it right here. We're going to insert this at an upside down v-angle. The slotted holes will be facing vertical. Once we have it oriented the proper direction, and they'll be facing the front of the truck.So, we'll take our rail, and slide it in position over our frame, and slide it on back. Now, we find ourselves underneath the truck. As you can see, we've already removed our spare tire. You don't have to do this, but it does give you a little bit more room to work. Okay, this is our rear rail. Here's our slotted holes that we we're talking about. We'll take one of our 1/2 inch bolts, and a flat washer, and we'll stick it through that hole. And we'll do the same for the other two holes in the center of our rear rail.Okay, this is the bottom side of our center section of our gooseneck. We want the offset here, facing towards the front of the truck, and our latch mechanism here, towards the driver side. We'll raise this up over the exhaust, and have an extra set of hands with us to help hold it in place while we secure it to the rear rail. We'll use a lock washer, and a nut. Get one started, we'll get the other two started as well.Okay, now we'll take one of our 1/2 inch bolts, lock washer, and a flat washer, and we'll bolt our center section to our front rail. Get one started, and we'll do the same for the other four. Okay, now we'll take a bolt, lock washer, flat washer, and we'll use that to bolt our side bracket here, to our front rail through this hole. Just get it started a few turns, that way we can still room to move our rail around as necessary.Now, we'll take a bolt, go through our side plate into our back rail. Place on a flat washer, a lock washer, and then a nut. Just get it started, just like that. And that gives us room to move as necessary. Okay, now we'll take our pull wire, and go through the forward hole here on our frame, and our side bracket. And we'll maneuver the pull wire onto the back of the vehicle.Okay, just in front of our rear spring hanger, we have a hole in the bottom of our frame, and that's where our pull wire came out. We'll take one of our spacer blocks here, stick it onto the wire. Insert it in the frame, and we'll thread on our carriage bolt to the pull wire. With that threaded on, we'll push that into the frame. So, I'll take our pull wire, and pull the bolt on through. And we'll our pull wire now.Okay, now we'll place on a lock washer, and we'll thread on a nut. Right now, the two holes in the back of our side frame bracket here, those are going to sit above and below our frame. And we'll secure the frame bracket around the frame with a U-bolt. We loosened up our back hardware here to the rail, just temporarily, so our U-bolt will slide on through. Now, I'll place on a lock washer, and then a nut onto both sides of our U-bolt, and replace the hardware for our back rail.Alright, on our driver side, it's a little bit different. We have a ground cable here, that has a 10 millimeter nut holding it onto the frame. We're going to remove this nut, and pull this ground wire off for the time being. Just stick it up here, out of the way. Additionally, we have a 13 millimeter bolt right here, which holds our parking brake cable onto the frame. Remove that, and swing the cable bracket down and away from the frame.Okay, now, we'll bolt our frame bracket to our front rail. Okay, now we'll bold our frame bracket to our rear rail just like we did on the passenger side. Now, on the inside of our driver side frame, it's different than the passenger side because we have a bunch of wires that run along the inside edge. We want to make sure we don't pinch these wires with our U-bolt when we install it. So, we're going to take a trim panel tool here, and temporarily pop these wiring harnesses loose from our frame. Okay, with these popped loose, we have adequate clearance now to get our U-bolt in.The bolt slides in position behind them, and into our bracket. Place on our lock washers, and our nuts. Right now, we'll take our pull wire, go through the hole in our bracket, and the hole in our frame. And we'll work it towards the back of the truck. Alright, just like on our passenger side, our pull wire comes out the hole, just in front of our rear spring hanger. Slide on our spacer block, and thread on our carriage bolt, and we'll push it on in.And we'll pull our bolt on through now. Remove the pull wire. Place on a lock washer, and our nut. Alright, now we'll swing our parking brake cable back on up, insert it back into its original position. And re-secure it with the original bolt. And we'll snug that bolt back on up. Okay, our ground cable, we'll pull it through this slot right here. Stick it back over the stud. And re-secure it with the original 10 millimeter nut. We'll tighten it back down. Alright now, we'll clip all of our wiring harnesses back to the frame.Alright, now we'll tighten up our hardware that holds our center section to our rails. We'll need a 3/4 inch socket for this, and 3/4 inch wrench. Alright, this one we're not going to be able to get a ratchet and a socket it, terrible easy, so you're going to have to tighten it up by hand as much as possible first. Alright, now we'll tighten down the bolts that hold our side plates to the frame. Do our U-bolts as well. And now we'll tighten down the bolts that hold our rails to the side plate.And we'll repeat the same tightening process on our driver side. And now we'll torque all of our hardware to the amount specified in the instructions. It's critical to point out that our U-bolts do get a lower torque spec than any other hardware in the kit. Alright, now we need to drill the holes for our safety chain loops. Now we have two different locations where we could drill through. You want to pick the one, which is going to be at the lower part of your bed corrugation, which in our case is going to be the one closest to our gooseneck ball.So, we'll take a drill bit, and drill right through the center of the hole and through the bed. And we'll do the same for the other loop. Alright, now we find ourselves in the top of the bed. Here's where our pilot holes came through for our safety chain loops. We'll use a step bit to enlarge these. We're enlarging these to the size indicated in the instructions. Now, just like we did for the hole for gooseneck head, we'll spray some clear coat in so you don't have to worry about rust.Alright, with our clear coat dry, we'll drop down our U-bolts, and we'll secure them underneath with our hardware. Okay, now we'll take one of our springs here, we have a small one and a big end. The small one will face down. We'll slide that over our safety chain U-bolt, and screw on one of our lock nuts. We'll take another one, put it on the other side of the U-bolt, in the same way. And then we'll tighten these nuts down so they're flush with the end of our U-bolt. And we'll repeat the same process for the other safety chain U-bolt.Okay, now we'll take our ball release handle, we'll stick the handle in through this hole right here, and work it over our frame. And we'll position it to the front side of the square hole, take a carriage bolt, stick it through the square hole, and in through the handle. And then we'll screw on a flange nut to the carriage bolt on the other side. Thus, securing the handle. And we'll tighten that down with the 1/2 inch wrench.Okay, now we'll reinstall our side panels. Okay, our driver side panel, we need to make a notch right in this area here so our handle will be able to operate properly. I'll just use a rotary tool again. You can use a utility knife. That notches, just grab it, brake it off. Now, we'll take our panel, hand it back in place. You'll see we have plenty of operation room for it now.And that completes our look at, and installation of the BMW turnover ball, under bed gooseneck trailer hitch, with custom installation kit, part number BWGNRK1313, on our 2012 Ram 3500.


Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Zack K
Video Edited:
Zack K
Employee Joshua S
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Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
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Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
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Dustin K
Employee Chris R
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Chris R
Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Michael B
Installed by:
Michael B

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