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Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2016 Ford F-250 Super Duty

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How to Install a Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2016 Ford F-250 Super Duty


Today on our 2016 Ford F250 we're going to be taking a look at the B&W Turnover Ball Underbed Gooseneck Hitch, part number BWGNRK1111. Here's what our gooseneck looks like fully installed. It's going to be great because it's going to allow you to tow all of your gooseneck trailers. Now, when it's in the locked position the ball's going to not be able to come out, and that's the position we're going to use when we're towing. Now, in the unlocked position, we can remove the ball and we can flip it over. Now we have full access to our full bed. Now here, we have our spring loaded safety chain loops, so we're still going to be able to put our safety chains on, but they're not going to interfere when we're loading anything up in our bed.

Now, this hitch features a 2 5/16 ball. Now, it does have a square mount, so you don't have to worry about it turning inside the hitch. It also has a 7,500 pound vertical load limit, which is the amount that is going to be pulling on it. It has a 30,000 pound gross towing weight. Now, I do want to mention you want to double check with your vehicle's owner's manual to make sure that your vehicle can handle that weight capacity. Now here on the driver's side, you can see we have this black handle.

If we pull all the way out and slightly rotate it to the left and push the handle towards the cab of the truck, it'll lock into place and allow us to remove our ball, flip it over, and then we can gain access to our bed. If we turn it back and release it, it'll lock our ball into place. As you can see, it's going to be a multi-piece design. We're going to have a crossbar here as well as here that attach to our center section. Then we're going to have side plates on either side of the driver and passenger side.

Now that we've gone over some of the features, we're going to go ahead and show you how we got it installed. To begin our installation we're going to need to remove our spare tire. This is just going to make it easier so we have got more room under the truck. Our next step is going to be measuring where we're going to be putting our hole in our bed. Now, if we take our tape measure here, and I made a mark right here. Next we're going to measure the distance between the two wheel wells and where the center matches up with our intersecting line, that's where we're going to be drilling our hole.

Now, before we drill our 4 inch hole I'm going to be drilling a pilot hole with a 1/4 inch drill bit. Now I want to mention here, what I'm using here is just a piece of wood that I use my hole saw and cut a 4 inch hole in it. That way, it'll keep the hole saw from jumping around, and I can keep it steady by standing on it while I'm drilling. Now I'm just going to come back and vacuum up all my metal shavings and clean it up a little bit. Now, since we did just drill a hole and we have bare metal here, I do want to mention to be careful, because it is going to be sharp. I'm going to take a paint marker, and I'm just going to paint around the edge to give it a little bit of extra protection against rust. Our next step after we've drilled our hole, we're going to come back. Right here is going to be our heat shield, right next to our hole above our axle, and right above our exhaust. Now this is just glued on, but we're going to need to pull this heat shield down, and it's not going to be getting reinstalled because the hitch itself is actually going to act as a heat shield between our bed and our exhaust. If we just reach up and start working our way around, we can start pulling it down. Our next step is going to be removing our exhaust bracket right here, just behind the axle on the passenger side. Now, there's going to be a bolt coming from the bottom going up, and there's also going to be one on the inside of the frame rail that's going to be going out. I'm going to be using a 10 millimeter socket to remove these. Now with our bolts removed, I'm going to slide our bracket forward and pop it off the rest of the way. Now, you may need to get a pair of pliers or a pry bar to take this off fully. We're going to set this aside, because it will be reinstalled later. Now, on some applications we're going to come up to our cross member here between the frame and our bed, and just right behind that we're going to have the put a notch in so we can get our bars in for our gooseneck. I'm going to come over, and like I said, just a little bit behind that cross member and we're just going to put triangle shape just like that, and we're going to cut a notch out right here. Now I'm going to be using a rotary tool to cut out our notch here. Now with our notch cut out here, we're going to take our crossbar, and the one we're going to use is going to have three notches in it. One here and two on the other end. We're going to insert this right here in front of where our notch is. We're going to go on the front side of the shock mount on the passenger side. Once we have it in there, we're going to need to go underneath side of the truck, and we're going to have to do a little bit of prying to get it in place. Now right here there's the notch where our shock is. We're going to need to rotate the bar just a little bit where we can get past our shock mount, and we can start sliding it back. Now this bar is going to come all the way back as far back as we can get it against this other cross beam on the bed. Possibly a pry bar or a pair of pliers to get it where you need it. Now, once we get our bar all the way back to our crossbar here, just going to take a pair of channel locks, I'm going to grab it and I'm going to rotate it so that the holes and this piece here is up and down. Then our bar, the top section is butted up against our crossbar here on our bed. Now we're going to take our other bar that has two notches and we're going to do the same thing, sliding it in from the driver side, going towards the passenger side. Next we're going to do the same thing. We're going to grab a pair of pliers, we're going to grab our bar, and once we get it lined up on our frame rails can rotate it around. Now we're going to take our center section and with an extra set of hands we're going to put it in place while our extra set of hands is going to maneuver our exhaust out of the way so we can get it up in here. Now, you want to go over your fuel lines and everything else first, and over your exhaust. At the same time, this exhaust is going to help hold it in place. Now that we have it roughly in place, and the exhaust is going to hold it up, we can start to put our bolts in. Now, our extra set of hands is going to get in back of the truck, and they're going to line up the top section of our hitch with the hole we drilled, so that when we put our hardware in place it's all going to line up correctly, and we know exactly where it needs to be. Go ahead and move our crossbar and butt it up against our center section here. We're going to take a 1/2 inch bolt followed by a flat washer, and we're going to insert it from the outside of our crossbar, and we're going to go through the center section of our hitch. Once we have that in place we're going to follow it up with a lock washer, and then finally a 1/2 inch nut. We're going to tighten it down hand tight for right now. We're going to repeat the same process we just did with this bolt with the other two remaining bolts on each end of our crossbar and center section. Now, our back bar here, we're going to need to move forward and again butt it up against our center section here. You may need to rotate it back down, get it close to where we need it, and then we can come back with a pry bar or a pair of pliers to get it back into the position we need. Tap it into place, and now we're going to repeat the same process with our hardware in the three remaining holes on our back section. Get everything lined up correctly, and once we get our hardware in place we're going to go ahead and repeat the same process for the other holes remaining on our center section and rear beam. Next we're going to be installing our side plates. Our hardware is going to be utilizing this hole here just forward of our crossbar, this large hole somewhat in the middle of our two crossbars, and this hole back here behind our rear crossbar. Now, just to make it a little bit easier on myself, before we lower this down and put our side plates in place, I'm going to take my 3/4 inch bolt right here, they provide you with this special washer, and this is going to be used on the driver side. We're going to take our 3/4 inch bolt and come on the inside of the frame and hang it right here. I'm going to take my bolt and put it on the inside of my frame there. Then I'm going to take my 1/2 inch bolts and I'm going to put it through the corresponding hole in the frame as well. One here. Now, this one may be a little challenging to get through, just because of the location of the gas tank. Now that we have our hardware loosely in place, I'm going to take one of the supplied spacers and I'm going to put it right over our 3/4 inch bolt. Now with all of our hardware in place, I'm going to take our side plate here and the way we know this is for the driver's side, for one, it's going to have four holes in the center section here, and it's also going to have a sticker showing you on your handle to unlatch and latch the ball. We're going to take this and we're going to line it up with our hardware trying not to knock it in. Once we have it loosely in place, I'm going to let it sit there and hang on our hardware. Now, here on our 3/4 inch bolt I'm going to take a lock washer and put that on our bolt. Then I'm going to follow it up with a nut, and I'm just going to put everything on here hand tight for right now. Now for our 1/2 inch bolts on the ends here, I'm going to take a 1/2 inch flat washer, followed by a lock washer, and then finally I'm going to take a nut and put that on the end. Again, we're just putting everything in hand tight for right now. Now we're going to repeat the same process for the remaining bolt. Now we have our remaining bolts here tying in our side plate with our crossbars. We're going to take a 1/2 inch bolt and a flat washer, and coming from the outside going towards the center of our side plate, we're going to install the bolt like that. That's going to be followed up by a lock washer and then finally a nut. We're going to do the same thing over here with the bolt facing in and the nut on the inside of our center section, and our nut. Now, there's only going to be a few differences here on the passenger side. We're still going to be using our 3/4 inch bolt, but instead of the special washer we just have the regular 3/4 inch washer that's going to be going on. We go to the back side of our frame here and install our 3/4 inch bolt here, and our two 1/2 inch bolts will be utilizing this hole right in front of our front crossbar, and back here right below the bed cross member, this hole right here. Now with all the hardware in place we're going to put that same spacer on the passenger side. Then we can take our side plate and we can install it and hang it on our existing hardware in there. Once we have that in place, then we can go ahead and come back and do the same process with the nuts and washers, just like we did on the driver's side. Now that we have all of our hardware in place, we're going to come back and we're going to torque all of our center section bolts first, and we're going to torque them down to the amounts specified in the instructions. We're going to repeat the same process and torque down all the remaining hardware in our center section. Now with our center section bolts torqued down, we're going to come to our side plate and we're going to start with these and torque these 1/2 inch bolts down to the specified amount in the instructions, and we're going to be using a 3/4 inch socket on one end, and a 3/4 inch wrench on the other. We're going to repeat that process for the remaining 1/2 inch bolts. Now, for these side plate bolts it's going to be easier if you put the torque wrench on the outside, and have a wrench on the inside frame rail just because of everything in the way, like the shocks and the exhaust. We're going to torque those to the specified amount in the instruction as well, still using the same 3/4 inch socket and 3/4 inch wrench. We'll repeat that process for the remaining bolt back here. Now that all our 1/2 inch bolts are torqued down, we're going to torque down our 3/4 inch bolt. Here, I'm going to be using an inch and 1/8 socket and an inch and 1/8 wrench on the inside. I'll go ahead and get my socket on here. I'll go underneath and go to the back side, and hold the bolt head with the wrench. Now that we have the entire section torqued down, we're going to repeat the same process on the other side. Next, we're going to be installing our handle for our hitch here. If we take our handle, and coming from underneath the bed, we can feed the handle out. We're going to line up this loop in the handle with the square hole right here on our hitch. Now, I do want to mention that the handle is going to go on the front side of our hitch, towards the cab. Then we're going to come back with our carriage bolt, and we're going to feed it through from the back going towards the cab, making sure that it goes through our handle. Then we're going to come back with our 5/16 flange nut and we're going to put it on the back side. inaudible 00:16:53 when installing this, you just want to be careful to make sure that your handle is around the bolt and that the carriage bolt and nut will sandwich the handle in there. We're just going to snug it down hand tight, and then come back and tighten it up all the way. I'm going to be using a 1/2 inch socket and I'm going to snug it down not crazy, but just nice and snug so I don't have to worry about that carriage bolt backing out. Next, to install our safety chain loops on the outside of our bed, we're going to come underneath here and we're going to have two holes on either side of our receiver tube right here. We're going to have two here, and we're going to have two on either side of our handle. Now, we're going to need to drill a 1/2 inch hole through the bottom of our bed using these holes as a template. Now I'm going to start out using a 1/4 inch drill bit to start a pilot hole, so when I do go and make my final 1/2 inch hole it'll be a little bit easier. I'm going to go ahead and repeat the same process and drill the other three remaining holes. Now, with our pilot holes drilled I'm going to come back with the 1/2 inch drill bit and finish drilling my final hole. Now I'm going to repeat that and finish drilling out my other remaining holes. Now here's the holes we drilled from underneath. We're going to take our supplied U bolts and we're going to drop them into place. We're going to go back underneath and put some hardware on them. Next we come underneath the truck, here's our U bolts hanging down. We're going to take our spring here, and with the larger end facing up, we're going to slip it over one end of our U bolt, and then we're going to take the supplied nuts and we're going to thread it on so that the bottom of the U bolt is flush with the nut. It's going to end up looking just like that, and we'll repeat the same process on the other side. Next we're going to bring our attention back to our exhaust mount that we took off. We're going to get the supplied bracket to lower our exhaust down. Now, first we're going to take a 5/16 carriage bolt and we're going to put it in this bottom hole here, in the flat end with the single hole. We're going to mount and thread that through the bottom part of our exhaust clamp. Follow it up with a 5/16 flange nut. Now for now, we're just going to put this on hand tight. We're going to take our 1/4 inch carriage bolt here, and we're going to insert it through the back half so it comes out back here. Next, we're going to take our 1/4 inch flange nut, and we're going to put it on the back side just hand tight again. Now that we have everything all snugged up by hand, we're going to come back, and for our 5/16 bolt and flange nut, I'm going to be using a 1/2 inch socket to tighten everything up. Now if we come back for our 1/4 inch, I'm going to be using a 7/16 socket to tighten it up as well. Now, to make it a little bit easier to install our exhaust bracket, just spray a little bit of penetrating oil into the rubber isolator, making it slip on a little bit easier. I'm going to take my bracket, making sure that the silver tab facing up is on the outside of the frame, and I'm going to slide it over the rubber isolator just like that. If we take our supplied spacer right here, we're going to go in between our frame and our bracket right here, and then we're going to feed our carriage bolt through. Next, we're going to take our 5/16 carriage bolt again and we're going to feed it through the back side, and again, taking our 5/16 flange nut and tightening it down on the back. Then we're just going to put our flange nut on our carriage bolt, and we're going to come back and tighten it up. Again, I'm going to be using a 1/2 inch socket to tighten that up. Now we're going to come out to our handle here on our driver's side, and we're going to pull straight out until it stops, and then slightly rotate the handle while pushing towards the driver's cab, and it'll lock it into place. Now we're going to go ahead and move back in to the bed of our truck. Next we can take our ball, and we're going to drop it down into place. Then we're going to release the handle so that the pin can go through, and we'll make sure the pin goes all the way through the ball. Now with the pin engaged, no way to get the ball out. It is securely in there. Now the last step, we're going to go ahead and remove the pin again, pull the ball out, and go ahead and grease it up so that we don't have to worry about it getting any corrosion on it. I'm just going to take a small amount of grease on my hands here, just going to get it nice and lubricated so we won't have to fight when we put our ball in or take it out. We'll go ahead and drop it back into place and reengage the pin. Now, with everything in place, all we have left is to reinstall our spare tire. That'll finish up the look at the B&W Turnover Ball Underbed Gooseneck Hitch, part number BWGNRK1111 on our 2016 Ford F250.


Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C

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