B and W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2021 Chevrolet Silverado 3500

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How to Install the B and W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2021 Chevrolet Silver


Hey everyone, Shane here with etrailer.com. Today, I have a 2021 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 and I wanna walk you how to install the B&W Under-bed Gooseneck Hitch. Any gooseneck hitch or an under-bed kit like this is gonna allow to do a few different things. One is the obvious, allow you to pull a gooseneck trailer, but maybe you pull a gooseneck trailer through the week and you have a fifth wheel you pull on the weekends, or you're looking at buying a fifth wheel camper. Being B&W, it allows you to add a fifth wheel hitch using the under-bed gooseneck attachment. Now depending on your bed size, and depending on what kind of fifth wheel hitch you would use.

We have a standard bed here, so we always recommend with a standard bed or a short bed truck to use a slider hitch. You can find any of those here at etrailer. This is what our hitch is gonna look like when it's installed. You can see the only thing really right now that's sticking up is our ball. The thing with that is, is we can take our ball out and we can flip it over when we're not using it.

Now, we have a nice flat bed. If you want to put plywood, drywall, anything like that in here, we're not taking up any bed space. Our ball itself is gonna be 2-5/16. We're gonna have a 30,000-pound gross towing capacity, 7500-pound vertical load limit. That's straight up and down on the ball.

I recommend checking the owner's manual on your vehicle and make sure the vehicle can withstand that amount of weight. You wanna go with the lowest number between the vehicle and the hitch. This is what our safety chain loops are gonna look like. You can see they sit lower in the corrugation. They're gonna be spring loaded, so when we're not using them, they stay nice and flush down on the bed.

Now, if you'll notice the bottom of the ball is square. That's to keep it from spinning in the hole. But you also notice on the corners, they kind of are angled and that's to allow the ball, while it's sitting down inside, or any dirt and debris to fall down through the hitch and not get caught up with the ball. Now if we come to our safety chain loops, they sit in the lower part of the part of the corrugation. They're gonna be spring loaded, so when we're not using them, they stay nice and tight to the bed. Our handle is gonna have a nice rubber coating on it, so it's not cold to the touch. It is gonna be a metal construction, makes it very easy to use. You can see it's got an angle on it. To use it, you simply pull out, twist forward towards the front of the vehicle, and then when you want to release it or release the pin, simply twist back and let it go. One thing I really like about B&W and the way they make their hitches is how durable they are. You see very thick steel construction. It's gonna have a nice thick powder coat finish on it, so it's gonna hold up really well against rust and corrosion. As far as the installation process, it's pretty straightforward. The only cutting or drilling we're gonna have to do is the porthole on the center and the two holes for each one of our safety chain loops. Everything else just bolts together. Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's walk you through how to get it installed. To start your installation, it's a good idea to go ahead and remove your spare tire. If you have a drop-in bed liner, you're gonna need to remove that as well. We're gonna start here in the bed and what we're gonna do is we're gonna measure from the edge of the bed, make sure it's not the tailgate, up per your bed size. Now if you have a spray-in bed liner like this, I would add on like a 1/16 of an inch, maybe an 1/8 inch. We're gonna take a marker and we're gonna put a dot right on the center rib. Now, what we're gonna do is we're gonna measure between the wheel wells right across that same dot and make sure it's centered. We're gonna split this number in half. Next we're gonna take a 4-inch bit, hole saw bit, with a drill bit. We're gonna make sure there's nothing underneath that's gonna get in the way. I'm gonna use the drill bit, drill a pilot hole first, and then I'll show you what we'll do after that. And what I like to do, take a piece of plywood, use a bit, drill a hole in it. What likes to happen is because the corrugation is raised and dropped, as it starts hitting that edge, this bit will start kinda skipping and using this as a guide will help keep that bit straight. We can step on the board. What I like to do is take the back of my leg right here, whether you're left-handed or right-handed, put it up against the drill like that. That way, you're not hurting your wrists when it starts hitting that different corrugation. Now, what I like to do is take a file and we're gonna shave off the edges or shave them down to get all the burs off. Then, we're gonna clean up the shavings. What I like to do is to take some spray paint, black, clear, whatever you wan to use, and we're gonna spray the bare metal to reduce any risk of rust or corrosion later on. Next, we're gonna take a T15 Torx bit. Each wheel well liner, we're gonna have three screws we need to remove. So on each, on the top of each frame rail, there are gonna be two weld nuts. You're gonna have two here on the back side and on the front of the hat channel, we're gonna have two. We got some snow there, we'll have to remove it, but there's two more up there. What we're gonna do, even though this is a new vehicle, that's open to the elements, so we're gonna take some spray lubricant and we're gonna spray it in each one of the holes. We're gonna take a tube brush. We're gonna make sure we clean those holes out so that when we put our bolts in, they don't cross-thread. We're gonna have four holes on our driver's side, four holes on our passenger's side that need to be cleaned out. Now, it's up to you if you want to remove the spare tire heat shield. I'm gonna remove it 'cause it makes it a lot easier when we're working in here. It's really easy to do, two bolts, 1/2-inch socket. We're gonna have one bolt here and then one here. Once you get it removed, we'll set it aside. Next, we need to remove this heat shield. This one will not be re-installed, 1/2-inch socket, I'm gonna use a short one. We're gonna have a bolt right up here on top. We're gonna have one on the frame rail behind the hat channel, one on the frame rail in front of the hat channel, and then one on the same crossmember here with the front one. Now, we can remove our heat shield. And then we can clean out our four holes on top of our passenger's side frame rail. We're gonna take a crossmember. On the inside, there's gonna be a weld seam. We're gonna take this bracket and we're gonna center that weld seam right in the middle of it. And what we're doing is we're doing the driver's side bracket. We're gonna take our bolt, these are gonna be the 4-1/2-inch long bolts. We're gonna line it up with the holes in the crossmember. And with the bolt head facing forward. Take a flange nut. Put it on each bolt. We're gonna take our crossmember, we're gonna flip it over like this, and then we're gonna tighten it down. We wanna make sure that this bracket is flat against our crossmember. We'll use a 15/16 socket and wrench it to tighten that down. Now, we're gonna come back and torque our hardware to the specifications in the instructions. We're gonna get our forward crossmember in place. It's gonna go in front of the hat channel. We're gonna slide it over top of our fuel tank. And this part here needs to sit on top of the frame rail. And the two holes here on top of this bracket are gonna line up with the two holes in the top of the frame rail that we cleaned out earlier. Go ahead and get this one slid into place. Then on our passenger's side, we're gonna go ahead and install this bracket on our front crossmember and so our hardware same way we did our driver's side except we're not gonna tighten and torque these down. We're gonna leave them loose for now. You wanna make sure you're watching out for any wiring or anything like that. You don't wanna pinch anything. We're just gonna repeat the same process for our rear bar. Once we get our rear crossmember in place, we're gonna slide it back. We're gonna take our forward one and we're gonna push it as far forward as we can. This is our center section. Our hat channel for our bed is gonna fit in here. If you have a long bed truck, this is gonna be the front, hat channel, and this is gonna be the back. We want to make sure that our hitch or I mean our pin handle is always on the driver's side. For a short bed truck, we're actually gonna be installing it this way so where this is the front of the truck, this is the back of the truck. So we can pull our pin out and switch it around to the other side, again, so it's on the driver's side. And then we'll install the hardware that comes with it. A couple of bolts and then a couple of flange nuts for the bottom. Then we'll come back and tighten these down. Next, for each crossmember on the outside, so it'd be on the, all the way towards the back here, and then all the way towards the front. We're gonna put this plate in. We're gonna take a bolt right through like this. We're gonna run it through our crossmember like that. We're gonna do the same thing on our forward one then we're gonna take our bolts and we're gonna slide them in just to where they're flush. That way when we put our center section up, we can take the bolt, slide it in to the center section, it'll hold it up in place while we install our remaining hardware. Your center section. Once you get your center section up into place, as I mentioned, just push your bolts through and it's gonna hold it up. Then we're gonna take a nut and we're gonna hand tighten it on the end of each bolt. For these, because we don't have a whole lot of room there, what we're gonna have to do, we're gonna slide the nut. Like that. Then, push the bolt out just a little. And then as we thread it on, we can push the bolt in place. Take the shorter bolts, they're gonna come through our frame rail and we're gonna thread them down into the factory weld nuts and the frames that we cleaned up earlier. Now before we tighten or torque any of our hardware underneath the bed, what I like to do is 'cause most people don't have a hoist, what I like to do is find a couple of blocks. If you have a two-by-four, you can run it across your bed rails. What we're gonna do is we're gonna take a strap and make sure your pin's closed. We're gonna run our hook on the pin. And the same thing with the other side. Take a two-by-four and go across them like this. And then we're gonna tighten it down. What we're trying to do is trying to get the center section up against the bottom of that bed, of our bed, as close as possible. Then, we want to make sure that stays tight while we tighten all of our hardware. Next, we're gonna tighten all of our hardware. We're gonna start with four bolts in our crossmember going into our center section. We're gonna start with those. As we tighten those down, we're gonna go through the bolts going down through our frame brackets into our frame. And then once we get those tight, we'll come back and we'll tighten the brackets through the crossmembers that we left loose in the beginning. Once you have all your hardware tightened, you're gonna come back and torque it all to specification in the instructions. Once you have everything torqued down, you can go up and remove your strap that's holding it in place and then come back down and then run back through and re-torque everything again or check it to make sure everything's torqued. For the hardware that's in the frame rails, if you cannot get a torque reach in there because of the limited space, per the instructions, if you're unable to loosen your bed and raise it a little, what you're gonna do is you're gonna take just a regular wrench or socket and tighten those down as much as you can. Make sure you're not putting up a bar on the end of it. You don't want to over-tighten them because you don't want to break the weld nuts or strip out the hardware. Next, we're gonna install our handle. We wanna make sure that this hook right here is facing down. We're gonna reach up. We're gonna slide our pin out. Just like that. And then there's a square plate with a hole on it. We're gonna put this on the front side like that. We have a bolt right on through. Then, we're gonna have a nut put on there also. Once you get it installed, you can come back and tighten everything up. We'll go ahead and re-install the hardware for our wheel well liners. Our handle sits about right here. We're gonna make sure that what we cut out, we're cutting out enough so we can get our hand in there, the word is not uncomfortable. So, I'm gonna come out like this. You can go square, you can go triangle, you know, whatever you think you need to do. We should be able to cut this with a regular utility knife. It's just cardboard. Next, we're gonna drill out for our safety chain loops. You're gonna have two on this side of the center section and then two on this side. And we're gonna tell you to drill it out to 11/16. What I like to do is take a very small drill bit to make sure it's centered. I'm gonna drill a pilot hole and then I'll go up top and use a step bit to open the hole up to where I need it. So what we want, we want our safety chain loop to be able to move freely. You can open the hole up a little bigger if you want to. It's really up to you. Now, we're gonna come back and we're gonna spray the bare metal with spray paint like we did with our center hole, let it dry, and then install our safety chain loops. Now, we're gonna have a spring shaped like a Christmas tree. We're gonna put the wide side up against the hitch, put it over top of our safety chain loop, and then we'll put on a nut. We're gonna do that with each one. We're gonna take a 15/16 socket. We're gonna tighten the nut down just enough where the head is flush with the bottom side of the nut. Next, we'll reinstall our spare tire heat shield. Once you get your heat shield put back in place, you can go ahead and reinstall your spare tire and you're ready to go. That's gonna do it for looking at installation on the B&W Under-bed Gooseneck Hitch on a 2021 Chevrolet Silverado 3500..


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Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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