B and W Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2018 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

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How to Install the B and W Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2018 Chevrolet Silverado 2500


Shane: Hi, I'm Shane with etrailer.Com. Today I'm going to walk through you how to install B&W's underbed gooseneck hitch on your 2018 Chevrolet Silverado 2500. Adding a gooseneck hitch like this is going to allow you to pull different gooseneck trailers a lot easier. Not only that, but the ball can be flipped over to give you total bed access when you're not towing those trailers. With this kit, you're going to get a two and five sixteenths ball. You're going to have a 30,000 pound gross towing capacity, 7,500 pound vertical load limit, which is going to be straight up and down on the ball.

I always recommend checking the owner's manual of the vehicle. Make sure the vehicle can withstand that amount of weight. Your always going to go with the lowest number between the vehicle and the hitch. Now what's nice about our ball is we're going to have a square bottom and what that does is it keeps our ball from spinning inside the hole.You'll also notice where our pin goes through. We actually have a hole on all four sides.

So we can put this in any way and as I mentioned before, when we're not using it, we simply flip it over. We can drop the ball down inside and store it just like that. So notice that the edges, we don't actually have corners. They're kind of squared off. This is to help keep dirt and debris from getting stuck down in there.

We'll take our ball out and look down on the bottom. The bottom is actually open. So any dirt that may get down in there will actually fall out the bottom. We're not going to have to worry about it getting stuck and binding up our ball when we're taking it out and putting it back in. Our safety chain loops are going to be spring loaded.

So we're that using them, they sit nicely down in the lower corrugation.When we're not towing our gooseneck, we have our ball flipped over. We're not going to have to worry about anything getting caught on them. We've got total bed access. Another nice thing about this setup is if you have a toolbox in the bed of your truck, like our customer here, maybe you have tanks back here, B&W offers an extension and it's going to replace this ball and it's going to give you a ball that comes back about four inches. This is going to allow you more room when turning for this kind of stuff in the bed of your truck. Keep in mind with using that component, it is going to drop your towing capacity just a little bit. Another really nice feature that I like about the B&W is if you pull fifth wheel trailers, this is going to be compatible with B&W's companion fifth wheel hitches.It's not going to require you to do any changes. You simply remove the ball. You can drop your fifth wheel hitch into place on top of your bed and it bolts down or gets torqued down right inside of this center section here. We're going to have an easy spring loaded pull handle. Simply pull it out, twist it. That locks it open. Drop your ball in place, twist it and release it. This kit is also going to have a nice gray powder coat finish. B&W goes out of their way with these hitches, very thick steel construction. So we don't have to worry about it breaking down over time. In my opinion, I recommend B&W over some of the other ones out there. I think they do a great job on building their hitches. Another thing that I would recommend when installing this kit in your truck if you don't already have it and that would be the 90 degree wiring harness. You're going to have a seven pole plug. It's going to mount right in the bed of your truck.It's going to keep you from having to take your wiring and put it over the top of your tailgate. It's going to hook directly into factory wiring on your bumper and it's going to allow you not only to utilize the seven pole plug in the bed, but also you're able to use the factory plug that's on the back of the truck. Now that we've gone over some of the features, let me walk you through how to get it installed. First thing we need to do to start our installation is we need to measure for the hole we're going to be drilling for our gooseneck ball. For a spray in bed liner, you need to remember when measuring, add about a 16th of an inch for the thickness of it. If you have a drop in bed liner, I would suggest taking it out first. You also want to measure for your bed size. We have a short bed. So we're going to be going about 44 and 3/4 plus that 16th. So I'm going to measure there and where we're measuring from is right from the end of our bed.You want to make sure you're not going from the tailgate. Once we find that, we need to center it between our wheel wells. Next, we're going to need a four inch hole saw bit with a drill bit. You want to make sure before doing any drilling you check underneath to make sure we're not going to be going into anything. What I'm going to do is I'm going to use a drill bit and drill the hole first and I have a board here that I'll explain in a second what I use it for. The board is actually when this blade starts cutting into the metal, what happens is this blade will kick. I use the board to keep my blade straight so I have a clean hole. If you don't have one, it's easy to make. Just cut a four inch hole into a piece of plywood like this. I also suggest to take your back of your leg. Set it right up against the back of the drill bit because it will kick and if you're not holding on to it right, it's going to hurt.Next, it's a good idea to take some spray paint or clear coat and spray this bare metal. We're going to do it on top and I'm going to do it from underneath. I'm going to use black because my bed liner is black. Next thing we want to do is go ahead and lower your spare tire. Spare tire is going to be located underneath and this is going to be your access point to lower it. Keep in mind, once we get the underbed setup installed, it will not interfere with putting your tire back in place. Next we're going to take a T15 torques bit and we're going to remove our wheel well liners. We're going to have several bolts that hold it in place. Then we'll take our liner. We're going to slide it out. We'll go ahead and take it all the way out and set it aside. Then we're going to repeat that on the other side of the vehicle. Next we're going to take a 13 millimeter socket and we're going to go ahead and remove our heat shield. We're going to have a bolt here. We're going to have one here.We're going to have one up where this cross tube crosses over from one side of the frame to the other side. It's going to help make our installation a little bit easier because our brackets that span from the frame rails actually cross right here and we don't want our heat shield to interfere with that. Now we'll remove our heat shield and set it aside. On our passenger side only in front of this hat channel behind this piece that holds on our wheel well liner, we need to cut out a two inch piece here on this flange so that we can slide our crossmember in place with our front crossmember. So again, anywhere in between these two we're going to go two inches wide and it needs to be about three quarters of an inch high where we're almost going to here. inaudible 00:08:45 just like this and we're going to cut that section out. I'm going to use a rotary tool. You can use anything you may have, rotary tool with a metal cutting blade on it and again, you want to spray that bare metal to help protect it.Next we're going to take our front bracket and slide it in from the passenger side where we made the notch. You'll notice our bracket, how this side is a little bit thinner than this side. This is what goes over our fuel tank on our driver's side. You want to make sure that the holes are going to be facing back like this. So we're going to put it down like that and slide it in straight across and then we'll take it and kind of slide it up towards the front of the bed just like that. Now we're going to install our rear bracket. You'll notice that the holes are kind of offset. It's going to be installed like this where we want the hole that's closest to that edge towards the bottom rather than up towards the top. One thing I will recommend is take your bolt and you want to be able to thread it into each hole. If not, you're going to have to clean out those soles because when they powder coat them, you could get some powder coat down inside there.So you may have to use a tap to get them cleaned out. Once you get them cleaned, we're going to take it. We're going to slide it into place in front of the hat channel again. I can get that spanned all the way across, right side just like that. Now we're going to take our back bracket and we're going to spin it up like this and you may need to take some channel locks or a pair of pliers and kind of get that up in there. Now what we want is we want that to sit. It's going to sit right up against our hitch channel just like that. So now what we're going to do is we're going to take one of our bolts that's going to be going from our bracket into our center unit. This hole right up here is going to be pretty hard because it's over top of the fuel tank. What I'm going to do is I'm going to go ahead and put it in now. You're going to have a rubber ring like this.Go ahead and put that rubber ring over the top of it and that'll hold that bolt in place just like that. Now we're going to get our center section in place. You'll notice that the hole is offset. You want this to be towards the back of the truck or back towards this back bracket on the hat channel. Slide it in and over our exhaust. I'm going to take hex bolt, lock washer, flat washer. I'm going to bolt from my center section to this back rail. Our hardware for the back here is going to be all the same. You have your nut, lock washer, flat washer. It goes in from the inside, bolts to this back brace. For our front ones, we're going to take just the bolt. We're going to go from the outside through the hole like that and we're going to put on a lock washer and then a nut.Then we'll have three remaining that attach our center section to our cross braces that are going to install exactly the same way. Next we're going to install our frame brackets. You may want to clean out the weld nuts on the frame before installing this and how these are going to go in is they're going to go right in between your front bar or cross member and your back one and they're going to line up with the two holes in the frame rail. We'll take the hex bolt, lock washer, flat washer, go from inside into the rear one just like we did with the hardware for the center section. Then for this one, hex bolt. We're going to slide it through. Flat washer, lock washer and a nut. Then we're going to take our larger hex bolts. You're going to have four of them. Put on a lock washer then a flat washer and we're going to thread them into the existing weld nuts in the frame and again, we're not looking to tighten these down right now, we just want to get them hand threaded in.We'll do the same thing here and then we'll repeat that process on the other side of the vehicle. Now something I like doing to make sure that our hitch is tied up against the bottom of our bed is use a couple of boards and then I'm going to run a strap around it and going to tighten that strap down. You can run a two by four across the top here, which I've heard of some people doing. However you want to do it, you just want to make sure that that hitch is pulled up tight against the bottom of the bed and it's centered in that hole as possible. Once we got it tight, we've got it centered the way we want, we can go head down underneath and start tightening our center section. Then we'll take a 19 millimeter socket. You can see I have a little swivel on it and a short extension and we'll start tightening down our hardware. We're also going to use a 19 millimeter wrench.Then what we want to do is we want to tighten all of our hardware for our center section to the specification in the instructions. Then we're going to come outside and we're going to torque our top two outer bolts going to the cross members that span between the frame rails. Then we're going to tighten and torque our hardware on our frame rails to the specification in the instructions. Now what we're going to do is drill up for our safety chains. We're going to add two holes on one side, two holes on the other side of our center where our ball mounts in. Take a pilot bit or I mean a small bit and we're going to drill a small hole. Try to go as centered as possible and then once you get your pilot holes drilled and then we'll go up top and we'll use a half inch drill bit and drill them out to a half inch. That way they're centered. Then we'll take our half inch drill bit and open our holes from the top side.What we want when we put our U bolt in place we want them to be able to move freely like that and then again, make sure you spray your holes. Go ahead and draft your U bolts into place and then we'll go down underneath and install our springs. Now we're going to have a spring. It's kind of shaped like a Christmas tree. You can see how we have this one installed. Large end's going to go up. We're going to slide it over our U bolt like that and then we're going to put on one of the lock nuts. Now when we tighten these, we only want to tighten to where the head of the U bolt or the end of the U bolt is right at the edge. We don't need to tighten these all the way. We want to make sure we're going to have plenty of room to get different size hooks on. Just about like that.Then we need to install our handle. You're going to have to take the rubber part of the handle that's going to be on the outside of the frame rail. You're going to slide it through this hole and then out to the outside. You're going to have a loop like this and if you look right here where this pin slides in, there's a square hole. We need to take this to the front side of it like that. We're going to have a bolt. You can see the square head. We're going to slide it in just like that. Then we're going to have the flange nuts inaudible 00:18:40 and then we're just going to tighten that down with a wrench. Now go ahead and reinstall your fender liners in reverse order from the way you took them off. Over on our driver's side, you'll notice our handle sticking down here. What we're going to have to do is we're going to cut this out so that our handle will slide all the way out into the open position and I'm just going to use a utility knife to cut this out.Now in your kit, you're going to get some white lithium grease. It's a good idea to grease down the edge of this so that when it slides in, you're taking it in and out, it slides in and out pretty easy. Once you put it on your white lithium grease, lock your ball in place. You're ready to hook up to your gooseneck and hit the road. Again, I'm Shane with etrailer.Com. I hope this video has helped you whether you are still deciding or installing B&W's underbed gooseneck trailer hitch on your 2018 Chevrolet Silverado 2500.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Ron F.

Did you put your heat shield back on ?

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jacob H.

The heat shield does not have to be removed to do this install. It was removed to make the install a bit easier and was not replaced so that there is easy access to the hitch. It is optional to the installer to remove or not remove the heat shield.

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