B and W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2015 Ram 1500

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How to Install the B and W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2015 Ram 1500


Rob: Hey everybody, Rob here at etrailer.com and today we're going to be taking a look at the B&W Under Bed Gooseneck Kit on our 2015 Ram 1500. Now here's what our gooseneck is going to look like once we have it installed. Now I really like B&Ws. They make a really nice hitch and as you can see, if you take your measurements properly, they fit really, really well in the bed. And you're not going to have this misshapen hole and it's almost perfectly lined up without making any kind of adjustments. So these, by far, are some of my favorite goosenecks that I've ever installed.Now like most gooseneck hitches, it is going to give us a two and five 16th inch ball to hook up to our trailer.

What I really like about the B&W opposed to all the other brands really, is that if you look in the gooseneck hole here, the ball is actually going to have a square profile to it rather than a round one. Which means even if something we're to come loose, the ball cannot turn in there. There's no way for the square corners to keep turning, unless the entire thing just gets ripped out. So this just gives a lot more security, preventing that ball from spinning inside and moving inside the socket.Now what is going to be different about our gooseneck is going to be the handle. The way we're going to remove the ball or put the ball in, is we're going to insert the square end of our handle into the hole that's in the bed.

We're going to rotate it and that will allow us to pull the ball out. And as you can see, when we bring the handle back, there's going to be a rod that goes all the way through the opening on the ball. That's going to make sure everything is nice and secure and locked into place, that way we're safe when we're towing our trailer.Well, B&Ws put these spring loaded safety chains in, so whenever we do need to use them, we can grab them, pull them up, hook our hook on and we're ready to go. But when we're not towing, they're going to recess back down into the bed pretty low. They're not completely flat, but they do sit pretty low to where it's not going to really bother you if you have to load something in here and we'll have full bed access.And the same goes for the ball, whenever we remove the ball, it's going to be a really nice clean look in the bed, rather than having big rails for a fifth wheel or anything else.

This is just going to be a really nice way to be able to tow a trailer, but also use the bed when we don't want to tow the trailer.Speaking of fifth wheel trailer hitches, if you happen to have a fifth wheel trailer hitch and a gooseneck, B&W actually has specifically designed accessories that mount directly in the socket for your gooseneck ball. One of them would be the companion fifth wheel. And this is going to slide directly into the gooseneck and that way you'll be able to tow a fifth wheel trailer without having to get a whole lot of adapters or bolt anything onto your trailer itself.Now if you're looking at a gooseneck hitch, you obviously have a trailer or are thinking about getting a trailer that you need to pull. So the weight ratings are going to be pretty important because you want to make sure that it's going to be up to the task that you put it to. Our hitch is going to have a 30,000 pound gross trailer weight rating, along with a 7500 pound vertical load limit.But with those numbers in mind, those are for the hitch and you need to make sure that your Ram is up to the task as well.

So I suggest you double check your owner's manual and never exceed the manufacturer's recommended weight. And if you're putting that gooseneck in the back of your Ram, I always suggest picking up wiring as well.We can mount a seven way back here, that we won't have to worry about draping our cord over the tailgate, plugging into the back of the bumper. And if we have one back here, we can actually have both of them working, so we're not going to lose the one on the bumper either. Now if you do want some fifth wheel wiring or gooseneck wiring, you can find that here at etrailer.com.Now the handle here or the key to take your gooseneck ball out, I know a lot of you may be thinking and I thought the same thing, This is going to be pretty easy to lose. But I suggest that you put some kind of lanyard on there. You can tie it off somewhere in your truck if you need to. There is a hole at the end of the handle, but at the same time, I know the inevitable is going to happen. Someone's going to lose this.Well if you're in a bind and you need to get your gooseneck ball out or back in and you don't have your key, you can use a three eighth drive ratchet and extension and it will work. And we will be able to remove the ball and put it back in. So just a quick tip. If you don't have the key, you can't find it, three eighth ratchet works just fine.Now as far as the installation goes, it is a little bit involved, but it's going to have everything we need to get it installed. Now obviously, we are going to have to cut a hole in the bed to get our gooseneck through. So a few things you might want to make sure you have before you start is a four inch hole saw, a three quarter inch hole saw and then typically, you just want to have a basic set of hand tools and a torque wrench. But this is definitely something you can do at home. You just want to take your time and follow the instructions real well.In fact, let's go and do it together so you can have the confidence to do it at home. To begin our installation, I went ahead and lowered down the spare. Now it is going to be an actual thing, but I really think it's going to give you plenty of space when we go underneath to put everything in. Then we're going to move to the bed of our truck and we need to take a few measurements so we can drill a hole for our gooseneck.Now it's very important when you're measuring that you want to hook your tape on the very edge of the bed. You don't want to go past the bed and measure off the tailgate. You want the edge of your tape to meet right at the edge of the bed here. Now, depending on what size of bed you have, they're going to give you two different measurements in your instructions. So again, I always suggest measure twice and cut once. So I already have my holes marked, but I'm going to go ahead and double check those measurements again before I start drilling.Another thing you're going to want to do is to find the center of the bed because they're going to give you a measurement going up. Then you're going to want to find the center of the bed and make your mark where those two points meet. And once you have your marks made and you know that they're in the correct spot, you're going to want to grab a drill with a pilot hole.Once you do have your marks made and you're comfortable and you know they're in the correct spot, you're going to want to grab a pilot hole drill bit because we're going to end up drilling these out, but after that we are going to use a hole saw. And whenever you do go to start drilling, you just want to be extra careful and take your time.Now to prevent my drill bit from skipping around, I'm going to start out really slow and I'm going to use a light amount of pressure until I can get enough going down that don't have to worry about it jumping on me. We're going to go ahead and drill out the other hole as well. Now for our main hole that's in the very center, we're going to be using a four inch hole saw. That's where our gooseneck ball's going to be coming out of.Now whenever you're doing this, a few tips that I have is if you put your drill on a very high speed, you want to make sure your pilot bit goes into the hole so you can line up your cut. And you want to start out slow with the pressure and again, a really high speed on the bit and light pressure, that way it can cut through and we don't have to worry about it catching, gouging or skipping around on us. I also like to hold the drill bit or I like to hold the drill behind my legs, so it doesn't start jumping and kicking on me.Now for the hole that's just offset from the large center one, we're going to be using a three quarter inch hole saw. Now you can use a step bit or pretty much whatever. You just want that hole to be as close as you can to a three quarter inch hole. Now since these edges are most likely going to have a little bit of sharpness to them, they may have some little burrs, I would suggest just taking a file, going around the edge, smoothing it out. Then we can use some clear spray paint, to prevent any kind of rust or corrosion.With our bed ready, we need to move to our wheel wells and we're going to be pulling out the wheel-well liners. Now this isn't a hundred percent necessary, but it is going to make it a lot easier to see that frame rail, get the rails in place and just give yourself some extra room. So you want to grab an eight millimeter socket and we're going to start removing all the fasteners going along the outside edge here.And if we look in right above our tire, we're going to have one that's towards the back and then another one that's recessed towards the front. We want to pull all of those bolts out, so we can get the liner out. Just make sure you hold on to all your hardware because we are going to reinstall this once we have everything in place.When you start working your way towards the back, you probably are going to have to pull off the mud flap or at least get it loose to about here, just so we can get the liner out of place at the bottom. So if it's easier for you, you can go ahead and remove the last bolt on the bottom and fully remove the mudflap so we can get to our liner a little bit easier.Now once you have your liner loose, it should move around fairly easily, but we have a little lip that goes all the way around. So you want to just find yourself an end to where you can start it. We just want to start working our way till we can get that liner to come out. It helps if you bend it back in and then curve it down to get it to come out. We'll just do that on both sides and rotate that liner and pull it out. Once we have it loose and it's fully off, we can rotate it out, we'll set it aside, move over to the other side and remove that one as well.At this point we're going to move underneath our truck. Now we're going to come underneath. Luckily again, we have the spare tire removed so we have plenty of space to come under. But we're going to come directly to the rear axle and if we look up, we'll find that rear crossmember here. Now you should have a vent tube that's coming from your differential, coming up and that's going to be running along the top of this crossmember. We need to remove all of these wires and that vent tube on the very top.These ones on the side and the back are okay, but we want the top of that crossmember to be completely free of anything. So you want to grab yourself a trim panel tool or a flat blade screwdriver and we're going to come up on top of the crossmember and each one of these lines and everything is actually going to be held on by a push pin fastener. So you just want to make sure you get that push pin to come out of the crossmember and we can get that line and the vent tube and all of those items loose.And once we have all the pushpins pulled out, we're going to move it so that it slightly hangs on the outer backside of this crossmember. And the vent tube, we want to loosen it up to where it just comes completely down off the crossmember because we're going to be relocating it once everything is in place. So it may be a little bit easier if you find all the push pins from the front side. But again, you have to go off a feel because it's really difficult to see above the crossmember here.We're just going to work our way through getting as many of those push pins as we can and then pull that line and everything towards the back. Now once you get to the very edge on the driver's side, we actually need to move to the outside of the frame rail. We want to remove any of the clips as well on the driver's side of these wires and lines and push them to where they're going to be out of the way as well.Now these ones over here on the driver's side, most likely will be easier if you get them from the outside of the wheel well liner, since we don't have the liner in place anymore and make it a little bit easier to reach those. We won't have to fight the lines and the fuel tank underneath. Now you don't want to pull real hard, but you want to pull on a line, see if you did actually get all those clips out or if it just got a little bit loose. But again, you want to make sure the clips actually come out because not only do we not want to damage the lines, but we want to have a nice flat surface for our rails to fit in on as well.So here you can see I pulled all that slack out and moved that harness to where it's on the back side of that crossmember. And I actually just unclipped the vent tube and again, I just have it hanging down right by my diff, to where it's going to be completely out of the way.We're going to grab our rear crossmember. Now the rear crossmember is going to be the thicker bar that has the threaded holes in it. Now before we put this in place, I always suggest that you find the corresponding bolt that goes with these threads and you're going to want to run it in a couple times. Because as you can see, we have a really nice thick powder coat, which will help protect it, but it can get in the threads. And it just makes it a lot easier if you clean those out before you get it in, rather than trying to fight it underneath the truck.You'll also notice that there's going to be a little notch here. We want to start on the passenger side and make sure this notch is going in first and that it's facing towards the back of the truck. You'll find your spring mount up top here. And your rear hatch channel, you want to go right in between those, just lift up the rail, slide it to where it's going to span across both of the crossmembers. Now once you get it to about here, you're probably going to want to go underneath, lift up on the other side and slide it to where it's nice and centered.Now we've got our rear crossmember in place, we need to position it to where it's going to work properly. We're going to slide it pretty far back and then we want to rotate it so that that notch that's towards the driver's side is pointing downward. So we're just going to rotate our crossmember, double check that we're not pinching any wires or anything else and then we want to slide it towards the back as far as we can get it.Now that notch is going to be useful because there's actually a mount. If your Ram has dual exhaust on it, there's a bolt that's going to be sitting right above it, but it'll just clear. And you want to push that crossmember as far back towards the factory crossmember, as you can.Now that we have our rails in place, we are going to need to get the center section in. But I will let you know it's rather heavy and a little bit cumbersome because we have this dual exhaust, so it's going to be a little bit more involved getting it in place. So instead of having to struggle myself underneath or trying to get a whole bunch of people to help me hold it underneath, I'm going to use a couple of blocks of wood with a piece going across and a strap connected to it.This will allow me to hook it up to the bottom of my gooseneck and actually cinch up the straps, where it will pull it up towards the top of the bed and I can actually let go, grab my hardware and get it in place. Now you can also use a friend if they just have this strap up here and they could just be holding it for you. But I feel a little bit more comfortable, since I'm going to be lifting the bed and being underneath it, using some blocks of wood. I don't have to worry about somebody up here moving around while I'm underneath.So I got our center section here, but like I said before, I'm going to be using this strap. So you want to make sure that the center bar here is in the locked position and that it's closed and it's not open and the bar is there. If it's not for whatever reason, you can grab the handle, come to the silver square hole here, just put the handle in and you can rotate it and you can see that bar will move.We can put our strap in and make sure it's closed and wrap it around there, that way it has a good grip on it. Just in case you're wondering how we we're going to get the strap through or how we we're going to attach it, this way it's not going to cover up any of the mounting holes and it will just make it a lot easier for us to get it up where we need it to be.Let's attach it to our strap. And there is going to be a little bit of a trick to get these in just because of all the exhaust pipes that we have to go over. So we'll start by having the center section and we're going to have the bottom of it facing towards the passenger side. We're going to lift it up. So we did find that the strap is actually getting in the way, but if you're doing it by yourself, I highly recommend a strap and if you can, having an extra set of hands is actually a little bit easier. You won't have to fight the strap going around the exhaust.We're going to want to lift our center section and pivot it so that the bottom goes behind the exhaust first. And we're going to pass it over to the passenger side. You want to lift up and rotate it to where it'll be right above the exhaust and work it until the center section lines up with the hole that we drilled in the bed. Now that this center section is loosely in place, you really want to make sure that it's in there and it's not going to fall down.But we want to move back up top and make sure that that center section where our gooseneck ball's going to fit is nice and centered in that hole. That's a good time that we can put that strap back up and really cinch it up to the top of the bed, so we can get the rest of our hardware in place. So we went ahead and put that strap back up. So our gooseneck still has a little bit of movement to it, but it's not going to fall down because there's that upward pressure pulling on it.So we're going to move back underneath and we'll put in the hardware attaching the center section to the rear crossmember. So I already got a couple bolts holding my center section in place against that rear crossmember. The hardware we're going to use is we're going to grab the half inch bolts that do not have a shoulder on them. They're going to have threads going the whole way on it. You're going to follow that up with a split lock washer and then a flat washer.And then you want to lift up just a little bit on the center section and that'll help line up the holes between the crossmember. And we just want to get a couple threads in there. We don't need to tighten them down just yet. We just want to make sure everything's still connected together, but we have a little bit of wiggle room. So we're going to continue putting all these holes into our rear crossmember.So we're going to continue putting all these bolts in all the holes for our rear crossmember and center section. So we need to get our front crossmember in place now. Now if we look at our crossmember, it's going to have a V shape and there will be a side that has some holes in it. We want the holes to be facing towards the rear of the truck and this flat section to be going upwards.Now we're going to need to get our crossmember just in front of our center section, which will be right in this general area. But as we start to slide our crossmember in, you're going to hit the bottom of the bed and since it's at this angle, we're not going to be able to lift it up. So the way around that, is if we actually come in front of the shock absorber here, in front of the rear tire, we're going to angle the crossmember upward, going over our exhaust and everything else, feeding it over to the other side.Now I do suggest that you get it a good amount of the way in there and then the tire will hold it, preventing it from coming back out. But then we can go underneath and start running it over to the other side of the frame rail and working our way to getting that bar up and under where it needs to be.And once we have the bar in place, we want to slide it as far back towards that center section as you can. Now this part may be a little difficult, but if you can, grab it with your hand and rotate it to where it's going to sit flat. If you can't though, what we can do is grab an adjustable wrench or something, grab the edge of it and rotate it to where it sits nice and flat.Now if we move underneath, now that we have our crossmember lifted in place, those holes are lined up with our center section and we've pushed it as close as we can. I always suggest going back up into the bed, double checking your gooseneck that it's still in the hole in lined up. But if everything's in place we want to grab one of the longer bolts. These are going to have the shoulder on the bolt. Grab one of these, we're going to follow it up with a flat washer and we're only going to put these bolts in the very center section around the gooseneck hole.Now it's a little bit of a tight fit and you may have to work the bolt back and forth a little bit to get everything to line up. Not to mention, we do have our handle right here, which isn't necessarily going to be in the way, but it will make it a little difficult because we need to have our bolts coming from the inside going out. So we're going to be coming from the center section and going to the front our truck.I will let you know this bolt right here is a pain to get through because we have our handle assembly right here. So what I like to do is get that washer completely against the center section. So we're only having to fight that bolt to go through and not try to get the washer to clear this. But once you do have your bolts going through the center section and the front crossmember, we're going to grab a split lock washer, put it over the bolt, then we're going to finish it up with a half inch hex nut. And that's going to do the same thing for both of these bolts. So we'll go put the hardware over there as well. And right now we just want to leave our hardware about hand tight.So now we want to grab our U-bolts here. Now if we come to the rear springs here On that perch, if we actually look inside the front of it, you'll see that there is an opening. We want the top slot of our U-bolt to go through that opening and over the top of the frame. And then the other leg is going to come down and wrap around the bottom of the frame.We'll take our U-bolt, again you want to come from the front side of the spring and we're just going to push it in just enough to where it's not going to fall out. You can push it in all the way, it's just going to make it a little bit harder to get our plates in. So I just like to put it in loosely, just so we have a little bit more room on the underside of our frame. Now we'll put another U-bolt in on the other side and then we'll move underneath.So here's our passenger side plate. Now we're going to have this little tab and ear that's sticking out, but if you look on the large flat section, we're going to have two holes. Those are going to line up with those U-bolts. So we want our bracket to be sitting about like this. Now this is going to be on the front side of our center section and these two holes are going to line up with our center section and the forward crossmember brace.So we're going to lift this up, but when you're looking at your center section, you'll see that there's one hole that's going to go through the center section and the crossmember. And then the outer one is only going to go through the crossmember and then this plate.The large hole or the one that's going to go through all three sections, we want to grab a long half inch bolt and a flat washer. Go through our center section, through the side plate, through the crossmember, through all of it, using this hole. That'll help us get our plate up there and at least we won't have to worry about holding it and trying to line everything up.When you're lifting it up, just be careful not to knock your U-bolts out. If you do, it's not a big deal. We can always put them back, but again, I just want to make sure we get that bolt to come through the other side. We're going to follow that bolt up with a flat washer. We're going to get a lock washer. Then finally, we want to put at least a couple threads of this hex nut on there, just so the bracket will hold itself up and we don't have to worry about it falling down. You don't want to get it too tight because we still need a little bit of movement in this bracket to get the rest of our hardware in place.So now we want to grab one of the shorter bolts, just like we used in the center section. And we're going to line our bracket up with that outer hole, make sure our bolt goes all the way through both braces there, and then we're going to follow up all of our hardware again, flat washer, lock washer and a nut. And you just want to be careful when you're putting everything in place, you don't want that bracket to come down and you don't want to have to try to find all your hardware if it falls down. Put a couple threads on there, make sure it's not going to come down.Once you have the top attached, we can come back to our U-bolts. Just going to want to wiggle the bracket around so you can have both legs of the U-bolts coming through. And again just like before, put a lock washer and then we'll secure it down with a hex nut. Again, I'm leaving everything really loose right now, just because there may be some slight adjustments we need to make and it's just a lot easier to come back and fully tighten everything at the end. That way we can just wiggle everything, give ourselves a little bit of room if we need it.So now we're going to put it in our first driver's side plate. The first one you want to put in has this notch, an opening in the side here. We're still going to have those two bolts where our U-bolts go through and then those two that are going to meet up with our cross member and center section. So it should be sitting like this once it's in place.But I will let you know, we have to sneak our plate in and going around all of these brake lines and everything else here. So you just want to be really careful and take your time when you're putting it in. So you're very mindful that you're not going to be damaging any brake lines or really pushing on anything too much. But basically, we want this section right here to fill in that notch. And just make sure you're clearing all your lines and your U-bolt isn't pinching anything either.Now, once we have our U-bolt in place and our brackets held up, we want to leave the U-bolt pushed in just enough to hold the bracket up. At this point, we're going to grab our other secondary driver's side bracket. So our secondary plate is going to have a large notch, but it's going to be relatively the same shape. And we want to take this one and we're going to come from the inside or the forward side, whatever you want to call it, towards the front of our truck. We're going to lift up. We're going to try to line up our bracket as close as we can to where it's not going to interfere with anything and we can get those U-bolts to come through and go through both brackets.Now I will let you know this is a little cumbersome, trying to deal with all of these brackets, trying to hold everything in place. But just take your time, try to get everything lined up and if you can get at least one hole started, it should make it a little bit easier to rotate the brackets in place. So once you do have these in place, take another lock washer, slide it over each one of the legs, finish it up with the hex on the U-bolt. Now these I like to get pretty snugged, still hand tight. But that way there's less movement, I don't have to worry about that U-bolt falling or the two brackets coming out of alignment.Now to put these two side plates together, it's pretty simple. We're going to grab these half inch shorter bolts, pass them through, put one in each one of the holes just inside of the frame here. Then I'll grab another lock washer, put it on the back of each one of our bolts.So again, just like on the passenger side where we have three sections, we have that center section, our crossmember, and then our side plates, we want to grab the long half inch bolt that has a shoulder, along with the flat washer that we've been using and we're going to go through all three sections. Now it still maybe a little bit difficult to get that bolt to go all the way through the hole, but it should be a lot closer since most of the hardware is in place. It may take a little bit of wiggling. That's also another reason why we left everything loose though.And just like the other side, we'll take another flat washer, followed up by a lock washer. Then again, we'll secure it down using a hex nut. So now we want to grab our bolt leads. It's just going to be a short bolt welded onto this handle, but we need to get our bolt to come out this round hole on that crossmember that's right above the axle. Now the easiest way I've found to do it, is if you take your bolt and you come to this curved section.We're going to feed our bolt up into that channel. It is going to take a little bit of maneuvering your bolt around to get it to fit in there. And then we can rotate the handle so we can get it to come out the hole up top. Easiest way I think, is if you get the bolt into this section first and then we can really start rotating it. Have it drop down just like that.Now we're going to have two of these plates, so we want to put the other one in the other side of our crossmember here. Now once you get those nut plates installed, you may notice that they're extremely close to the exhaust here. So we're not going to have a whole lot of room to get the bracket in place. So what I'm going to do is, I'm going to start by lowering the exhaust, but I'm only going to try to lower this right side. That way I don't have to worry about taking as many hangers off.So I'm just going to start with some spray lubricant. Just going to spray down the exhaust hangers. Now we're just going to start working our way towards the front of the truck, loosening up all the hangers on the right side. I found it easiest to just take a pry bar and just start working that rubber isolator off of the hanger. You're just going to have to find something to pry against and then we can just start sliding that rubber isolator off.So now that we've loosened up those two hangers, we moved that very last one at the very back, and then also the one that's right above the rear axle on the passenger side. Now it didn't really come down, but it did give us just enough slack that we should be able to pull down on the exhaust pipe a little bit and have a little bit of wiggle room to get that bracket and hardware in place.Now you can continue along removing the exhaust hangers further forward, so you can get the system to come down farther. However, you want to make sure you put up a support strap if you remove any more than what we did because the exhaust system is very heavy and we don't want to put that much strain on it forward up by the engine.So at this point we're going to grab our rear brace. Now this is going to have a section that has three tabs and then two tabs. The two tabs need to go up, but that middle section, you'll see, we're going to, again, pull down our exhaust a little bit. We're going to sneak our bracket up above everything and you want to get that center piece to come towards the center, above the crossmember here and bring everything to where it's going to be sitting right above the exhaust like this.Now right now it is tight because we've got our exhaust loose and if you did put all the holes in the center section, we're going to need to remove the ones that line up with these holes. That's another reason why we left everything real loose. We can take those out and the same combination of hardware is going to secure this brace to the center section.We just want to take our flange nuts. You might want to hold the handle when you go to start this. The bolt is going to be loose inside there, but once you get a couple threads on there, it'll tighten up and we can tighten it all the way down. Now that our gooseneck is in place and we have all the hardware in place, we're going to make sure that center section is nice and centered in the hole we cut, as well as the small hole so we can get access to that square inside the bed.We're going to start by tightening up our flange nuts that are on this rear brace here. We're going to use a 15/16th socket and you do want to double check the instructions for the order or the sequence that they want you to tighten everything up. And also pay attention to the torque values because the different size bolts are going to get a different torque.With this one torqued down, we're going to repeat that process for the one over here. Now again, it may be a tight fit, but we should be able to pull down the exhaust just enough to get the socket on there and tighten it up. And with that rear brace tightened, we're going to tighten down our rear crossmember bolts that are holding the center section to the rear crossmember. Again, you want to pay special attention to the size and torque values that are in the instructions.I will let you know that it is very limited in room, so if you can actually run those bolts down pretty snug and then come back and tighten everything down to the full torque amount. We're going to make sure we go back and repeat that for any remaining hardware we have on our rear crossmember. Now that we have the crossmember tightened down, we're going to tighten down the U-bolts. Now these you want to tighten down one nut on one side and then move to the other leg and alternate between the two so we get an even clamping force. And again, there is going to be a specific value for the torque for the U-bolts, so you want to double check your instructions.Now that we have our gooseneck torqued down, we need to get our safety chain loops in place. If we look at the center section, on each side of the opening for our gooseneck ball, we're going to have two holes. Not the teardrop shaped one, just there's going to be two round holes pretty close, next to each other. We need to drill those out. Now there's a couple of different ways we could do it.What I like to do, is just take a half inch drill bit and come from the bottom of the bed going up and then we can clean the hole up top. Another way you could do it, is drill a small pilot hole from the bottom and then drill the final size of a half inch in the top of the bed. But again, I'm just going to use a half inch bit. I'm going to come right against the bottom of the floor and we're just going to drill straight through.Now there's going to be a total of four of these holes. So we're going to drill out the remaining three. Then we can move up top. So again, I'm just going to put a little bit of spray paint on those holes we drilled, hopefully preventing any kind of corrosion or rust building up on our bed. Those holes drilled, we'll grab our U-bolts. We just want to drop them down so each one of the legs goes through the holes just like that.Now we'll move back underneath and we can put all the hardware in place. We're going to take these cone shaped springs, we're going to take the large end and feed it up towards the top. And I just like to push that spring up, grab one of the hex nuts and we just want to get at least a couple of threads on that U-bolt. So that's why you seen me push that spring out of the way just a bit, so we can get that nut started on there. Get a couple turns on it and we're going to repeat that process for each one of the legs on our U-bolts.Maybe a little bit difficult sometimes, just try to fight that spring, that U-bolt's been moving around. So if you can, push that spring up with one hand and push the U-bolt at the same time and that'll trap it, keep it from moving too much and we should be able to get that nut to start. We're going to do the same thing for all the remaining ones we have.So now that we have all of our nuts in place, want to grab either a 19 millimeter socket or a three quarter inch socket and we're going to tighten these nuts up until they're nice and even with the bolts on the bottom. If you have a little bit sticking out, that's all right, but we want to make sure that they're at least fully seated. This one might be a little bit difficult to get to. Just push that bolt out of the way. Double check that it's coming through and we'll do the same thing for the other U-bolts.So we want make sure we re-secure our vent tube. And what I'm going to do, is I'm actually just going to run it pretty close to the way it was. Use the clips, come up to this crossmember here. I'm going to actually just run my vent tube up and over. And if you need to, you can actually move these clips just to pretty much wherever you need them to be.So I'm going to run mine up, put a clip right about here, so I can clip it to this brace. And then we can always bring the other side of the vent to back over and clip it right here or somewhere just out of the way. It's not really going to matter exactly where you put it, you just want it to be out of the way to where it's not going to interfere with anything and it's not going to catch on anything.So now we're going to go ahead and put our exhaust and wheel well liners back in and then we can even put our spare back as well. Now it'll make it a little bit easier if you get some spray lubricant, but if you can get them pretty close to lined up, it's a lot easier to just spray that lubricant on, should slide right back into place.Now that we've got everything back in place, you want to make sure you hold onto this handle here. It's an L shaped bracket, it's going to have a little square on the end of it. We'll put that directly into the square hole that's in our bed. You can rotate that. You can see it's going to lock into an open position and that will allow us to drop our ball in. Bring the handle all the way back, now we're ready to hook up to our trailer.But again, I'm Rob here at etrailer.com and that'll finish up your installation and your look at the B&W Under Bed Gooseneck Kit on our 2015 Ram 1500.


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Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
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Employee Jonathan Y
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Employee Jacob T
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Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
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Dustin K
Employee Chris R
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Chris R
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee David F
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Employee Ryan G
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Ryan G

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