B and W Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2014 Ram 2500

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How to Install the B and W Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2014 Ram 2500


Hello, everybody. Clayton here at etrailer.com. Here at etrailer.com, we install, test, and review a lot of different products to help you, as a customer, make a more educated decision or purchase. Today we're gonna be working on a 2014 Ram 2500. We're gonna be taking a look at and I'll be walking through how to install B and W's turnover ball Gooseneck hitch. There are gonna be a couple benefits to using a Gooseneck versus a fifth wheel or a bumper pull.

If you're doing in-bed towing such as Gooseneck or fifth wheel, you're gonna get a lot more turning radius out of a Gooseneck and whenever you're not using it, the biggest benefit of having this turnover ball is you can just flip your ball over, you have all your usable bed space, you don't have to worry about the extra fifth wheel rails or the hitch taking up room in your bed. This is what our hitch is gonna look like installed. As you can see, it sits right here in our crossmember really nice. Everything sits really tight up to the body. Nothing comes into play with our factory lines, here and then here is our arm for our release on our pin.

And as I has mentioned, one of the great benefits to using the turnover ball is that it's not gonna take up a lot of bed space. As you can see, our truck bed's pretty dirty. This guy uses his truck for a number of different things. It's definitely classified as a work truck. So being able to flip this ball over, not have anything sticking up in the bed of our truck is gonna be essential and one of my favorite features is the spring-loaded safety chain loops.

And If you didn't want to, you could pick up a cover that goes over this just to help keep any extra dirt or debris from getting into your ball. And to keep your ball secured, There is gonna be a pin that goes through our hitch. As you can see, there it is. It sticks though there all the time whether your ball is upside down or right side up, all you do it pull the lever on the outside and then that pin releases, and you can drop your ball in. When you pull your arm out, you can actually twist it forward and have it lock.

That way, if you're by yourself, you can go up, flip your ball around, and you could just slide this back over and push it back in. Our hitch is gonna be constructed out of steel so it's gonna hold up really nice for a long time and it has a nice gray, powder coat finish to help resist rust and corrosion well. Our kit is gonna include a standard 2 and 5/16th inch ball. On of my favorite features is gonna be the rounded corners. And this has been patented by B and W to be the corner fit only design and that's the great thing about this design. Like I said, this is gonna keep all that dirt and debris from getting in between the ball and the hitch. And as far as our weight capacities are concerned, we are gonna have a 7500 pound vertical load limit and a 30 thousand pound trailer weight rating. Now you do want to keep in mind that's the weight of the trailer and the load included. And the vertical load limit is 7500 pounds pushing straight down on our hitch. Now it's a good idea to check with your owner's manual and make sure that your vehicle is capable to towing to those specifications and if there is a difference, always go with the lowest number. Another cool feature of the turnover ball Gooseneck hitch is that it does work with the B and W fifth wheel companion, so if you do have a fifth wheel and a Gooseneck, you can swap back and forth. You can find those here at etrailer.com. Now in terms of installation. Getting our hitch installed really isn't too bad. There's no welding, so that's gonna be super nice. Everything's one piece. The only thing we're really gonna have to do is drill five holes up here, two each for our safety chain loops, and one for our Gooseneck ball. With that being said, I'll go ahead and show you how to get it installed. To start our installation, we're gonna remove our spare tire. Now you don't have to remove your spare tire, but it is a good idea to do so 'cause it is gonna give us a lot more room to work. I went ahead and already did that, and our next step is gonna be to remove our heat shield. Again, this isn't necessary, but I highly recommend removing it. It's gonna be fastened down with four ten millimeter bolts, two located here and two on the back of this crossmember. Then we just take our heal shield down and set it off to the side. We're also gonna lower down our exhaust I went ahead and sprayed down our hanger with some penetrating oil and we just wanna grab a pry bar. We're gonna kinda stick it behind here and then pry against our exhaust. With our exhaust lowered down, we're now gonna grab our provided template. It's gonna be this little square thing, and that's actually gonna fit right here in the hole on our factory crossmember and as you can see, there's not a whole lot of play in it. So we just kinda wanna get that position there. We can grab a Sharpie, and just mark that hole. We're gonna lower down our template. As you can see, our mark is right there in the center. Now you just wanna grab a drill bit and we're gonna get our polit hole started. Now with our pilot hole drilled out, we can move up top. So now we've moved up top to the top of our bed and now ready to cut our three and a half inch hole with our three and a half inch hole saw. I highly recommend grabbing a piece of plywood and drilling a hole in this first, and then using it as a guide whenever you're drilling a hole into your bed, so you're gonna get a lot better product in the end by taking this little extra step. So we just wanna get our plywood kinda centered and we can start drilling. Now you just wanna come back and clean up all of our shavings with a vacuum. And we just wanna grab a file and knock down all of our rough edges. With our area all cleaned up, we're now gonna grab some clear coat, you can also get white paint if you wanted to paint your truck the same color, or just black, really, whatever you have just laying around, to help seal up those edges to prevent rust. Now we just wanna let our paint dry for a little bit then we can move back underneath and finish getting our Gooseneck installed. We're now ready to grab our provided spacer. There's gonna be a smooth side and a more rough side. We want the smooth side facing the top of our truck bed. So we're gonna take our spacer like so, kinda slide it up between that crossmember, and then kinda have to force it into place between our bed and that crossmember that we drilled through. It is gonna be a tight fit. You're not gonna want to use a pry bar 'cause you risk messing up your bed. So once you get it like this, we can grab a flat blade screwdriver and work this over to the center of the hole. You're just kinda want to get the center of that hole or at least as close to center as you can. And then once we put our hitch into place, it'll kinda finalize this motion and get this directly centered. We're now gonna grab our included nut plate. This is gonna slide over our frame rail through our fender liner here. I am gonna put a little bit of a bend here just to give us a little bit more angle to get it lined up. These are pretty easy to bend. You just press em against your leg and kinda put a little bend in it. Now it gave you just enough leverage to get this to fit in there correctly. Now you just wanna grab this, kinda slide it in. There is gonna be some wiring in the way. If you go up and over that wiring. Just kinda slide this in here like so. Now you just wanna kinda push it like this, leave a little bit exposed her on the ends, and we'll actually go underneath and get it centered with a screwdriver. Now whenever we're sliding this in, it's gonna help if you have an extra set of eyes at home to kinda help you line that up just visually first before we jump back under there with a screwdriver. And then like I said, you can use a screwdriver or in this case, we we're able to get it just by kinda looking and moving it on the outside of the wheel well. But as you can see, it is pretty easy to move around, so if you're having trouble, you can just kinda stick a screwdriver up in here and then slide it back and forth to get it in place. We're now ready to look at our center section in place. We're gonna be using these four bolts that are provided. They're gonna be the bigger bolts with the darker color and a little bit of thread lock inside of that groove. Now with an extra set of hands, we can lift our center section into place. You do want to watch out for your wiring. Now with that kinda in place, you just wanna get a bolt started on each side to kinda hold that center section up. Now you just want to get the rest of our hardware started to make sure it's nice and supported. Now you just want to grab a 24 millimeter socket. We're gonna start tightening these down. You're gonna make sure that you're tightening them in a criss-cross pattern to get it nice and even. We're now ready to come back and torque everything down. Again, you wanna make sure to go in that criss-cross pattern and then all of our torque specs can be found listed in our instructions. We're now ready to get our handle extension bracket. This is what it's gonna look like. We want the narrow section facing towards this, and on the backside, we're gonna add our smaller carriage bolts. So we're just gonna slide those through the back of our handle like so, then we can take our bracket, kinda slide that end up and over our gas tank, and push that onto there. Then we can grab our provided hex nut, and get that threaded on. And again, we are gonna be using the smaller carriage bolts and our small hex nuts that look like this. Make sure you have the flat side facing towards the bracket. Let's get a couple threads on there. Then we can grab our other one and get that started as well. Now it is kinda tight in here, so if you do have to kinda move this out, we can. Really whatever is gonna allow you to get enough room to get your hardware in. We can now come back with our 9/16th inch socket and just get these tightened down. Now I'm gonna grab our arm, we're gonna be using these two front holes, here. We're just gonna slide this through like so until it hits that bracket. You do want to remember to keep this part facing up. Now we can move underneath and add our hardware the same way that we did on the other bracket. Now we just wanna pull out on this and make sure it's not getting hung up anywhere. And in this case we're good. We know it's gonna work nicely. We can move up to and drill our holes for our safety chain loops. We wanna start with making sure that our pin is engaged. We just wanna set our ball into place to where it kinda sits up like that, and then we wanna grab our template. Our template is gonna include our drilling locations for our 3/4 ton and our one ton, but in our case, we are using a 3/4 ton, so we just wanna mark out our one ton so we don't accidentally use it. And a good way to check is this is gonna be the last four digits of your part number. So you can definitely verify that your outer two spots are the correct ones. We just wanna take our template and slide it over our ball, just like so. Now we just wanna grab our paint marker, just make our mark inside of our template on each side. Now you just wanna grab a small drill bit and drill a pilot hole in each marked location. We are gonna be drilling through our bed and that crossmember as well. We'll repeat that same process for our three remaining holes. We now have all four pilot holes drilled, now that crossmember that runs underneath our bed is gonna be pretty hard, so you wanna keep a few extra batteries charged for when you are drilling through it, but now since we do have those opened up, we can slowly step our way up to that full half inch bit that we're gonna be using for our safety chain loops. We're now ready to use our half inch bit and finally open it all the way up. And before we get everything cleaned up and painted, We do wanna grab our U-bolts, just check the fit and make sure that they fit through there. In this case they do, so we wanna pull these back out then we'll vacuum it up. Now you just wanna spray clear coat over those open holes just like we did for our bigger hole and again, I'm just gonna kinda touch up these edges just to make sure we're preventing any corrosion. We're gonna wait for that to dry and then drop our U-bolts back in. We're now gonna grab our spring. We're gonna put our biggest end facing up like so then we want to grab one of our provided hex nuts. We're just kinda wanna push that spring above there and then get our nut started just like so. We're just gonna thread that till the threads catch and we'll move on to the back one. This part is kinda tough, but you just kinda have to pinch the spring and keep it up out of the threads which will allow you to get that bolt started. Now repeat that same process on the passenger side. Now we just wanna tighten these up to where the U-bolt is flush with the bottom of your hex nut and then do this for all four bolts. We're gonna use a 19 millimeter socket Now with our Gooseneck completely installed, we're now ready to re-install all of our exhaust hangers, our heat shield, and our spare tire in the reverse order we took them apart. With all of our components re-installed, we're now ready to finalize our installation and install our B and W sticker. I went ahead and just cleaned off our frame rail here with some brake clean. You can use brake clean, a rubbing alcohol, really anything you have at home. Now we just wanna grab our sticker. I went ahead and peeled the protective covering of the back we'll just stick that on. We're good to go. Went ahead and got our heat shield and our exhaust put back, We're now ready to install our spare tire. With all of our components installed, we're now ready to hook up to our favorite trailer and hit the road. That's gonna do it for our look at and the installation of B and W's turnover ball Gooseneck hitch on our 2014 Ram 2500..


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Employee Jeff D
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Employee Joshua S
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