B and W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2019 Ram 1500

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How to Install the B and W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2019 Ram 1500


Connor: Hey guys, how's it going Connor here today, at etrailer.com. We're going to be taking a look at the B&W Turnoverball Gooseneck Trailer Hitch, here for our 2019 Ram 1500. Now there are a couple of reasons I really like to B&W Turnoverball, and it's going to be an excellent option here for our Ram 1500. Number one, as you can see here, we have an extremely clean install hook. We're not going to have any sort of gooseneck plate sticking above the bed floor here. With our Turnoverball removed, we're going to have full, unimpeded access to our bed.

So, touching base on the unimpeded truck bed here, as you can see, we actually have our hitch ball turned in upside down. So, we're going to have a completely smooth surface. All we need to do, to do this is we need to release the latch pin on the side of our wheel well here.We just simply flip the hitch ball over, so it locks into position in the stored position. When we're ready to use it, who would engage the locking pin again, take it out, flip it around, and then it'd be ready in the in-use position. So, if we come to the inside of our driver wheel well here, we're going to see this very easy to use latch pin, which is going to lock into position out, just like that.

We can flip our hitch ball around, lift up, pull in, and then we're ready to tow. So, the other reason I really like to Turnoverball here, it's something that's actually going to be specific to the Turnoverball. As you can see, we're going to have a square hitch ball opening. Now, what this square hitch ball opening is designed for, it's designed to reduce rattle that we would have with a circular hitch ball, and it's also going to make it a lot easier to get it in and out of the truck bed.I don't know if you've ever left your gooseneck ball in the truck bed, in the hitch there for an extended period of time. But after time, you get some rust buildup, some corrosion, and it makes it extremely hard to get the hitch ball out.

However, that shouldn't be a problem at all with a square hitch ball opening on our Turnoverball here. So, another great feature about our Turnoverball here, which is again, specific to the Turnoverball is that we can remove this hitch ball. And if we have a fifth wheel trailer, we'd have options they're going to plug right into the square opening here, they that will allow us to tow a fifth wheel trailer. We have a fixed option as well as a sliding option in the B&W companion.You can pick these up here at etrailer. So, as you can see on the side of our hitch ball here, we're going to have two spring loaded safety chain U-bolts here.

And these are going to be really nice and convenient, when we have our larger Clevis-type hooks, that's going to be on our gooseneck or fifth wheel trailer for that matter, we simply just pull up, attach the Clevis hook, and then it locks in place. And since they are spring loaded, we don't have to worry about them rattling around and making a bunch of noise. So, in regards to weight capacities, our Turnoverball here is going to have a 30,000 pound gross trailer weight rating, which is going to be the weight of the fully loaded trailer. And we're also going to have a 7,500 pound pin weight, which is essentially going to be the pin or tongue weight of the trailer, the downward force on our trailer hitch here.However, keep in mind, we do need to abide by the specifications of our vehicle. We can find these in the owner's manual. So, now that we've over some of the benefits and features, let's jump right into installation and show you how easy this is to install yourself. So, the first step of our installation here, we need to go ahead and remove our spare tire. Now, in order to remove our spare tire, we're going to have a little plastic panel cover here that we just need to pry off. And then there's going to be an access hole here, with some tools, we can find the cab of our vehicle. Now, if you need help with this process, you can go ahead and consult your owner's manual. So, the next step of our installation here, we need to go ahead and remove our spare tire heat shields, which we see here. We're going to have a couple of bolts on each side, one here in the center, and a couple more behind the heat shield. We're going to need a 10 millimeter socket in order to take these out.So, now we need to go ahead and lower exhaust. What we're going to do is we need to remove the exhaust hanger from these two rear rubber isolators here. We have one on either side. In order to remove these, we want to first spray them down with some penetrating oil. That's definitely going to help with removing them. Now, there's two different tools we can use to pry the exhaust hangers from the isolators here. They actually make a tool specifically for this, which is called an Exhaust Hanger Removal tool. However, we don't have one of these and chances are, you're not going to either. So, we're just going to be using a large pry bar. What we're going to do is we're going to pin it against the muffler and the frame here. And we're just going to push out, while we're trying to work the hanger free. Just like that.And we can repeat this process on the other side as well. So, now we need to get up in the truck bed here and we need to mark the location of our hitch ball hole. So, what we're going to do is we're going to take the measurements, which are provided for us in our instruction manual. We're going to hook onto the end of the bed rail, just like that. And we're going to measure about to where we think the center of the bed is for now. And we can take a paint marker, anything you have really, on hand that can make a mark. We're just going to make a dot here with the measurements provided in our manual here.Then once we have the length measurement, we need to go ahead and take the width measurement. Now, a little trick for this. We can measure to the inside of each of our wheel wells here. However, if you notice on the side here, we have this little indentation here, between our first channel and the wheel well here. It's a little bit easier to our tape measure tool in there. So, we're going to measure between that, left to right. We've already measured this, but it's going to be exactly 48 inches, maybe 48 and one-16th of an inch. So therefore, we need to make a mark here, in the center of our bed at the two foot mark, using our tape measure here. Just like that.So, now we have our measurements. And we can go ahead and drill our hole here, for the hitch ball. However, I do recommend you just double checking, even triple checking your measurements before we drill our hole. So, now that we have our location marked, we're going to go ahead and take a four inch hole saw, here, we're going to drill out our hole. However, we do need to make sure that there's nothing underneath, that we're going to damage, such as fuel lines, brake lines, things of that matter. So, what we're going to do is we're going to drill our pilot hole here, which all hole saws pretty much are going to have. And then we're just going to run underneath, check it, to make sure we're not going to damage any components.As we said, once we have our pilot hole drilled, we're just going to run underneath, to check to make sure we're not going to damage any components under the bed. So, now that we've checked underneath, make sure we're not going to damage anything, we can finish drilling the rest of our hole here. Now that we have our hole drilled, we want to go ahead and clean up all the rough edges on the inside. We're going to be using two tools for this, one is just some basic sandpaper here. And we also have a metal file as well. Once we get done cleaning up the hole, I'm going to go ahead and coat the inside here with a black paint marker or some black spray paint, whatever you have on hand, to prevent any rust.So, our next step here is we need to find our rear cross member support here. We see here, it's connected to the frame here. We have this little cross section. We have the top crossover here. As we can see here, we have a wiring harness that's going to be attached to the top of our cross member here, and we need to move that out of the way for this first step of the installation. So, in order to do that, we're going to have a 10 millimeter bolt or a six millimeter bolt, that we need to remove the 10 millimeter socket. It's going to be one bolt on the inside of our frame here. And then we're going to have to detach the wiring harness from the bracket, so we could take the bracket off the vehicle. Now, we're going to take a set of Trim Panel Removal tools, we're going to use this to pry the Push Fasteners off the bracket here.So, here's what the bracket looks like. Just one bolt holding it in here. And then we have two push fasteners that we have to remove from the wiring harness. So, now once we have that bracket removed, as you can see here, we have a little bit more Slack with our wiring harness here. However, you need to go ahead and remove some more Push Fasteners, which are holding our wiring harness and our Vent Tube here, to this cross member. So, we're going to take our Trim Panel tool, we're going to come in here, we're going to feel for the Push Fasteners as best we can. And then we're just going to pry them off to let the wiring harness hang free.So, we weren't able to get all of our clips, holding our wiring harness here to the cross member, from under the vehicle. So, we went and came on the outside here, in the driver's side wheel well, and we're going to be able to sneak a Flathead screwdriver up in between the bed here, on top of our frame here. And essentially, we're just going to be prying loose all these little Push Fasteners that we could see here, up from the frame. So, we have more Slack with our wiring harness, like you see here, because when we go to install some of our brackets, we're going to need some of these out of the way, which is why we need to release all these push fasteners that are securing it to the frame. So, as you can see here, we still have a remaining wire here, that's going on this top frame rail here, onto the passenger side. So, similar to how we did with the other side, we need to go ahead and take our Trim Panel tool here, we need to pry up the fasteners that are attaching this wire here to the sub frame.May need to come on the inside to get the rest of them. So, the majority of these, we're not going to be able to see. We're just going to have to get them by feel, by poking our Trim Panel tool or a Flathead screwdriver. So, we need to trace this to the outside here. We are actually going to have to go ahead and end up disconnecting this wire here. S, we're going to trace this to the outside of our frame here. So now, we're going to come to the passenger side of the vehicle, in our rear wheel well here, and we're going to follow up disconnecting the rest of the remaining fasteners, which are holding our wiring harness to the frame here. And as stated, we do have to actually go ahead and disconnect this wire. So, what we're going to do is we're going to pull out on this red safety tab here. Just like that. And then we can depress this tab here, pull out away from the vehicle, and it should release.Now, we're just going to tuck that back here, to try to get it to hang beneath. So, as you can see here, we have our wiring harness, which was attached to the top of our cross member here, considerably a lot looser now. And it's going to be out of the way, give us room to work. If we want even more room, we can actually go one step further. This may or may not be required. We have two more pigtails up here, which we could remove, similar to how we removed the other one, depressing this red safety tab here, pushing it away, then we're just going to push down, then pull away. So, we have two more tabs. We're just going to go ahead and do this, to give you a little bit more room to work. Keep in mind, this isn't required for your particular application.So, now we want to take our rear cross member here, and we want to set it into position, ultimately it's going to lay on top of our rear cross member here on the frame. However, in order to set this into position, we're going to have to come in diagonally, here at the rear of the truck here, starting on the driver's side and working our way over to the passenger side, like, so. Just like that. Now, we want to go ahead and center it on the cross member here. So, now that we have our crossbeam here, installed on top of our cross member on our frame, we actually need to rotate this forward, so our threaded holes are going to be facing towards the front of the vehicle. Just like that.So, the next step of our installation here, we need to go ahead and position our center section up into the vehicle here. Now we need to make sure that we have our latch pin hole facing the driver's side. What we're going to do is we're going to lift this up over the axle here, starting on the driver's side, angling towards the passenger side, similar to how we did with the cross section that we just installed. And we want to come over the axle, over the differential here, and then we're going to be coming through this little gap we have here for exhaust. And we may need to tilt it a little bit to get the proper clearances. Now, we're just rolling it over the exhaust. We're going to rest it on our gas tank here.For this next, the center section has to come over this way. So, we have to come over our exhaust here. Now, we may need to lower the exhaust or we may be able to fit it up on there. Yeah, so it looks like we are actually going to have to come down, our exhaust here. If you have a helper nearby, they can pull down the exhaust to give us an extra hand, or what we're going to do is we're just going to take a ratchet strap here and pin the exhaust down, so we have room between the bottom of our bed and top of our exhaust, just to slide our center section in place.So, our rubber isolators we're pretty tight here in the center of our exhaust here. So, in order to get our center section over our exhaust here, we actually use the Ratchet Strap technique, which I talked about earlier. We use the center section here because that's where it's going to be most rigid. And I also did have a helper pulling down the exhaust to get the rest of the way. So then, once we got it over the center section here, I'm going to go ahead and take this and move it as far or as close to this cross member as we can. And then to the passenger side of the frame. So, let's just go ahead and do that now. Just like that.So, now I want to take our front cross member here, and we want to hold it so the V-end is inverted. It's going to be facing down. We also want our holes here to be only passenger side. So, similar to how we did with all the other components, we're going to feed it through this opening on top of the Axle Tube here, under our exhaust. We're going to slide this all the way back, may need to get our hand on the other side for more support. We're going to go as far back as possible, and then we're going to take the trailing end here, we're going to try to tuck that on top of the driver frame rail like, so.And then we can take the adjacent here, we're going to sneak that on the passenger side of the frame rail, as best we can. Now, we're going to take the passenger side here, and come over the frame here, as close to our center section as we can, we are going to run into some issues here with our wiring harness, so we did have to come on the other side and just pull that out of the way a little bit, in order to get the frame rail or our front cross section to sit up on both sides. So as you can see here, we have a little contraption here, we have a cross beam on top of her bed rails here, as well as a ratchet strap here. Now we have the ratchet strap actually holding on to our latch pin inside the Gooseneck Hitch here. And essentially, what we're doing is we're trying to align the center section here, with the cutout we made in the bed.So, chances are, if you have a two by four at home, we could use these little divots in the wheel Wells here, and just a ratchet strap, we don't need a lot of tension on it, but we do just want to align the cutout section of our bed with the four inch section in the center plate of our Gooseneck. So, the next step here is we're going to secure this rear cross member to our center section here. Now, we have three holes threaded on the outside of our cross member here, we're going to be using our half-inch hardware with a lock nut. We're actually going to be coming on the inside of our center section here. So, we may need to position our rear cross member left to right in order to line up with the holes. Again, we can see a little bit more from the inside here. So, we're going to be coming to thread our connections here. So, wow we're going to take a 17 millimeter wrench here, or We're just going to thread our fastener in until we make full contact.We don't want to tighten this down at all, hand tight for now. However, we have a bit of tension on these two pieces here. So, it's going to be a little hard to thread it by hand. As you can see here, we have our bolt coming through the other side of our cross member here. Just want to make it hand tight for now, when we go ahead and line up our other two bolts on the other side here. Now, if we look up here, we can see our fastener coming through the cross member here, and we just want to get this hand tight for now. So, now we need to take our forward most cross section here, we need to line that up with our center section on our Gooseneck plate here.So, what we need to do is we need to center it on the bed rails, left to right, because there's going to be some notches on either side, that it's going to allow us to flip it forward and pin it up against the plate here. So, we're just going to make sure that we have it centered correctly on our frame here. And then we can go ahead and use a pair of vice grips or channel locks and rotate that forward. There you go. Now, we have our forward most cross member here, flipped up parallel to the center plate here. So, now that we have our front cross member pinned against our center section here, we want to take our half inch bolt here, we're going to be using the smaller one like we did on the rear cross member. We're going to come on the inside and thread that through, and then we're going to have a combination of a flat washer, a lock nut, and then our hex nut on the other side. We're just going to get this hand tight for now.So, our next step here is we want to take our U-bolts, which come with the kit, and we need to install these around the frame rail, in front of our coil springs on both sides. So, we're going to come up under the side here. We're actually going to be inside our spring pocket here, just like so. So, now we're going grab our passenger side in plate, here, and we're going to place this up into position. We're going to be using the two holes here and placing those through the U-bolt that we just installed. Then we're going to follow this up with a lock-washer and a hex nut on each of the ends of our U-bolt here. And again, everything is just going to be hand tight for now.So, now we're going to come on the other side of our side plate we just installed. See, we're going to have two holes on the outside here. One that's going to be inside, attached to our center section, and the other one on the outside here, it's just going to be attached to the front cross member and our side plate. So, we're going to take our longer, two-and-a-quarter inch long hex bolt, we're going to be using this on the inside, which are going to attach three of our components together. Just like so. And then we're going to take our shorter, half-inch, one-and-a-half inch long hex bolt and place it on the outside. That's going to secure our front cross member and our side plate. And then on the backside of those, we're going to follow it up with a flat washer, a lock-washer, as well as a hex nut.So, now we're going to take one of our driver's side, side plates here. We're going to install up onto the vehicle, we're going to be using the inaudible 00:22:21 cut out here, which is going to go on the inside closest to the cab of the vehicle. So, this little cutout here is going to be for our brake lines. So, we're simply kind of place this up into position, over our brake lines here. And then we can line up our U-bolts like we did on the other side. So, now once we get the U-bolts through the holes in our plate here, we're going to follow it up with our lock-washer, our hex nut. Do this for the top and the bottom. So, I wanted to hold this side plate into position on the U-bolts, but now we can go ahead and just take off the lock nut and lock-washer, now that we have the other side plate ready. That's actually going to get sandwiched over this assembly here. Now, we can take our other side plate here, just sandwich it together with our other plate.So, now that we have our two side plates pinned together, we need to go ahead and attach them using these two lower holes here, using our half-inch by one-and-a-half inch long hex nut. And on the other side, we're just going to be following this up with a lock-washer and then a hex nut, and everything's just going to be hand tight for now. So, similar how we did with the other side, as you can see here, we have the center section of this hole here, as well as our front cross member and then our two side plates. So, in order to go through all these plates, we're going to be using a longer, two-and-a-quarter inch long hex bolt. Try to thread these through all four of those plates. Then on the other side, we're going to follow this up with a flat washer, a lock-washer, then our hex nut. Then on from the outside of that plate there, we're going to have our front cross member and our two side plates. So, since we only have three plates now, we are going to be using our standard, half inch by one-and-a-half inch long hex bolt.So, the next thing we're going to do is we're going to take our threaded block here, we're going to slide it in this channel here with our rear section of our cross member. Keep in mind, there is going to be a side with these cutouts. There's going to be a little bit of indentation before the threads start. We want that to be facing us. So, what we're going to do is, we are going to slide the spacer block in the cross member like shown, then we're going to slide it forward to the front here as best we can. I'm going to flip it down, I want it to sit about like that for right now. So, now we're going to take our weld nut guy here, we're going to slip it through that same slot that we used to install a threaded block, just like, so. Then we're going to turn it, and we want the tab on the end here to line up with the hole in our frame, just like that.So, now that we have our welded guide nut roughly into position, we can go ahead and move it down to its final resting place here. I'm just going press the tab back up here, and we should have the other end of our flange end up on this first hole here. You can see here, we have our weld nut into position. If we look under this rear hole here, we see it aligns perfectly with the nut on our rod there. So, now that we have all of our hardware in our rear cross number here, we can go ahead and install our final brace here. Now, this is going to be going on the inside here, like so. That's actually going to be attaching to our center section.So, we need to start with our hardware here. We're going to be using our half inch bolts with a flat washer, as well as a lock-washer. So, now that we have all of our brackets in position, we can go ahead and start torquing everything down to the specifications in our instructions. In order to do this, we're going to be using 19 millimeter socket and a wrench. So, the first thing we need to do is we need to come over here to the driver's side, and if you remember, we had these two half-inch hex bolts, which hold these two driver's side plates together. What we want to do is you want to make sure that the plates are evenly conformed to one another, and then we want to go ahead and tighten these two bolts down here first. So, just to snug up our hardware, we're just going to be using an electric impact. And then we can come back with our torque wrench.So, the next bolt we're going to be tightening is the center bolt here, which is attaching our center section to our front cross member here. Once we get that done, we want to go ahead and follow the instructions and torque all the fasteners in the order they specify, to the amount they specify. Now that we have all our hardware torqued down, we can go ahead and move the device we use, to lift the center plate up into position. So, the next step of our installation here is to take our release handle, we're going to go ahead and insert it up above the frame, in between the bed rail, get it loosely into position. Then we can go underneath and bolt it to the hitch. Now we're going to come over here on the driver's side, we're going to feed our latch pin through the hole in our Gooseneck plate, and then we're going to line it up here, on the side of our release mechanism, here.Then we're going to take our carriage bolt, line it up through the hole like so. Then can take our five-16th inch flange nut, come here on the other side, secure it. Then we're going to be using a 13 millimeter socket, tighten it up. So now, we need to determine where to drill our hole for our safety chain U-bolts. In order to do this, we want to come on the under side of our center section here for our Gooseneck Hitch, there's going to be multiple sets of holes. We need to find the ones that are going to be even with the corrugation in our bed here, so it's essentially going to be on this section and not the raised section.So, it looks like we're pretty close to the edge of them, but these two inside-most holes here, are going to be flush with the bottom of our bed here. So, those are the ones we're going to use. So, now that we've identified the holes we're going to use, because they line up with the bottom corrugation on our bed here, we can go ahead and take our half inch drill bit, and working from the bottom side of the vehicle, we're going to go ahead and drill those holes now. So now, we're going to come up here and we're just going to clean up our holes, here. We're just using a step bit, or if we have a circular metal file, that'll work, or if we just have some sandpaper as well. We basically, just want to get all the rough edges off. And then, similar to what we did with our center opening here, want to go ahead and just paint the surface here to make sure we don't have any issues with rust.And now we can take our safety chain U-bolts here, just pop it in place. So now, we can come onto the bottom side of our U-bolt safety chains. We're going to be installing our spring first, along with our lock nut. Keep in mind, we don't want to tighten the lock that all the way, just until the end of the bolt is flush with the nut. There we go. We see the bolt is flush with the end of our nut, there, so we can stop tightening, we can move on to the next one. Once we get this done, we can go ahead and repeat this process on the other side. So now, that we have our U-bolt, safety chain springs, and lock that's installed, we can go ahead and secure our wiring harness to our hitch Cross Tube here, or wherever else we have to secure it, plug all our electrical connections back in, as well as reinstall our heat shield for our spare tire, and our spare tire as well.So, now that we have everything wrapped up underneath, we went ahead and put our hitch ball back into position, and that's going to do it today for the B&W Turnoverball Gooseneck Trailer Hitch, here for our 2019 Ram 1500..


Questions and Comments about this Video

Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee Aidan B
Video by:
Aidan B

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