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B and W Companion 5th Wheel Underbed Kit Installation - 2022 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

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How to Install the B and W Companion 5th Wheel Underbed Kit on a 2022 Chevrolet Silverado 2500


Presenter Hi there, Chevy owners. Today, on your 2022 Chevrolet Silverado 2500, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install B&W's Turnoverball gooseneck ball kit. This installation kit is designed to let you install a B&W Companion fifth wheel hitch while also still functioning as a traditional gooseneck hitch. This allows you to get the best of both worlds and tow a fifth wheel or a gooseneck trailer with your truck. This hitch features a 7,500-pound vertical load limit, which is the force going down on top of our ball. And it also features a 30,000-pound gross towing capacity, which is how much that you can pull behind it with our ball.

And that should be enough for pretty much all your gooseneck trailers out there. I do recommend to verifying your vehicle's owner's manual to ensure you don't exceed any of its towing capacities. Your ball secures inside your center section using a pass-through connector. We can see the cylinder here where it passes through. It's currently in the locked-in position.

I'm gonna pull it so you can see it slide out of the way. This will allow you to insert your ball in there, and then when you release the handle again, it locks it into place with that fixed cylinder. And you can see that's pretty thick. That's almost an inch thick there, so that's definitely gonna keep our ball in place. So now that with covered some of the features of our hitch, why don't you follow along with me in the shop here and we'll show you how we got it installed We'll begin our installation here in the bed of our truck.

We need to figure out where we're gonna mark and place our hole for our gooseneck. So you wanna refer to your instructions 'cause if you have a short bed or a long bed, the measurement is different, depending on the bed length. So we have a short bed, so we're gonna mark ours per the instructions for that. So we're just gonna come down here, measure from the edge of the bed at the back. That's not the tailgate.

We're measuring at the edge of the bed, and make our mark right here in the center. Now that we've got our mark made, we're gonna punch this right in the center. We also want it to be centered, side to side. So it's pretty good, I mean, just to double check yourself to make sure you are centered, side to side. These corrugations that we've got that are raised here in the middle, there's 11 of 'em, so the middle is gonna be here in the center raised one. But we're also just gonna measure side to side here and make sure that we are at the center. And that's right at the center right there, so we're good to go. So we're gonna mark it here with our little punch, just to make it easier for drilling. And now, we're gonna use a four-inch hole saw to cut out the area we need here for our gooseneck ball. I'm just gonna line that up with the mark we made, and then cut this out. There we go. We've got our hole cut. We'll then just vacuum up the mess we've made here. And we're also gonna take a little bit of clear coat here to just protect the area that we've cut, so there's no exposed metal, just to protect it from corrosion. Next, we're gonna take out these three bolts here in the center on our fender liner. We're on the passenger side, but we're also gonna be doing the same thing over on the driver side. We're gonna use a T15 Torx to remove these. And you can see it's kinda split down here in the middle. This will let us spread this open to get our parts in place and be able to access those. The majority of our hardware is gonna sit on top of the frame. And when you peel this back here on the liner, you'll actually be able to see these are the locations where our weld nuts are gonna attach it. So there's a heat shield down here that you can see it's in the way. We're gonna have to remove that as well. So you can see that there's a couple of bolts here on top of the frame. So while we're here, we can go ahead and get these out of the way. We'll remove the bolts for the heat shield using a 13-millimeter socket. You may also need to use a wrench here based on clearances. We'll see how it goes here. We're now underneath the vehicle, and this is that same heat shield that we had removed those bolts on top of the frame on the passenger side there, the ones that are behind the fender liner. So they we're over there. They're loose. You can see we can flop it up and down 'cause we had taken those bolts out. There's still two more bolts holding this thing in though. You'll have these two tubular crossbeams. You got one here and you got one at the front of this heat shield. There's one more bolt on top that threads into this tubular crossbeam here at the back and also in the front. So we're gonna get these last two bolts outta here, and then we can get this heat shield out of our way. We're still gonna use our 13-millimeter socket to remove these. And then, we're here at the front now, removing the other one. This one's pretty hard to see and to get to, but you should be able to get your arm up in there. And now we've got those bolts removed, we're gonna just take our heat shield, just pull that out of there, and then set it aside. So now, we need to do a little bit of prep on our pieces before we go to set them in place. So take your crossmember that comes in your kit as well as one of your brackets. We're gonna set the bracket down like this with the channel opening here. Our crossmember's gonna fit down inside of this channel. So we're setting off the two open slotted ends off to one side. We're gonna grab our crossmember. We're also gonna identify where the weld is. We can see that here on the inside. This needs to sit down inside, so just like this. The weld facing the right down inside of it. We'll line up the holes in our crossmember with the holes in our bracket here. Take the long bolts that come in our kit. This side here, we're gonna be putting towards the driver side when we set it up in there. We'd like our bolts to face towards the rear, so we're gonna slide 'em this direction through our components, and then place the flange nut on the opposite side. We're gonna take the same hardware, push it through there, do the same thing. And then, we can tighten this down using a 15/16 socket and wrench. And we're also gonna torque this to the specifications outlined in our instructions. And it may be necessary for you to place it in a vise in order to properly torque it. Just 'cause the high torque is pretty difficult to do on the bench there. We can now take our bracket and we're gonna set it into position. It may be necessary to take the one side and place it over the exhaust first. And we're gonna be able to rotate this into position. It looks like this bracketry is in the way there. Now, in order to get our bracket in place, we're gonna drop our exhaust down just a little bit. So we're putting our hanger here on, or pry bar on the hanger here, and we're just gonna pop that off. I also put a little bit of silicone spray on it to help it slide off of there a little easier. And this here just pries right off of there, just like that. And then, we can get just a little bit of movement out of our exhaust. We're probably gonna go further forward and remove the hangers that are a little bit further up as well to be able to get us more movement out of this exhaust. Next, we're moving up to these hangers here. They're just in front of your axle. Before we take those off though, I'm gonna take a strap. I'm just gonna hook it around the exhaust here, just on whatever, just so that way we've got some support here for it, so it can't accidentally drop down further than we intend it to and cause any damage. And we're gonna do this the exact same way. We're just gonna spray some silicone on there to help it slide off of there easier. And then, we're just gonna pry 'em off of there. We'll now take our brackets that we've assembled. Set it about into position. Hey, hey. There we go. All right, and we're gonna get it to just sit right up on top of the frame there as well as on top of our exhaust over here on this side. We can now take the other bracket, the other side, we're gonna use here for our crossmember and put into place. It's gonna sit over it just like that. We'll then line up the holes. There we go. Slide our bolt through. And place the nut on the other side. And you might have to tap 'em through. The powder coating on the B&W products is very thick to protect the products, but it does every now and then make the bolts passing through a little bit tight 'cause of all that extra powder coat. We can now go back and tighten down and torque our hardware. We're now gonna prepare the rear crossmember the exact same way. The only difference is we're not gonna fully tighten down the hardware just yet. The other difference is we also, this is gonna be our driver side, we want the bolts to face towards the center of our hitch. So we're just gonna be putting 'em in the opposite direction as well. And, again, that thick powder coat there, you might have to tap it the rest of the way through. We're just gonna loosely install these for now. And now, we're ready to go set this in position under the vehicle just like we did with the other one. We've got some wiring here on this side of the frame here. Make sure you get above it. There we go. And now, we'll attach our other bracket to the end of this one. Next thing we'll need to do is assemble our center section. Now, before we lift it up, we need to get our handle on the side that we want it on. And you can put it on whichever side you want. Typically though, we're gonna put it on the driver side. So that way, when you get out of your truck, it's right there on the side that you're on to be able to pull the handle. So when we get our center section here, this is the way it's gonna sit in the truck. This is the front right here. This is gonna fit over a channel. So this will be the rear of your truck. So you can see preassembled right here, well, it's not fully preassembled, but when we pulled it out of the box, the latch mechanism is here, and this would be towards the passenger side. But we don't want it on the passenger side, so we're just gonna flip this guy over. This actually just slides right out of there. Bring it right over to the opposite side here, and align it up with the hole, and then just slide it in just like that. You can then assemble it and secure it in place using the bolts that come in your kit. We're gonna use the small carriage bolts. You're gonna get three of these. One of 'em is gonna be shorter than the rest. Don't use the extra short one. That's for your handle. So that will slide on through. And a flange nut on the other side. So slide on through. That powder coat. And then, a nut on the other side. And then, we'll snug our nuts down with a 13-millimeter socket. We're also setting ours up this way because we have a short bed truck, and we know that's gonna be towards the front. If you have a long bed truck, your center section is gonna sit in there essentially backwards from a short bed, so do refer to your instructions when setting this up to make sure you're setting it up properly for the appropriate bed length and where you want your handle to be. We're now gonna prepare the hardware for our center section. So take the long bolts that come in your kit and one of the nut plates or washer plates here. Just slide 'em down through it. We're then gonna take this and bring it up to the crossmembers that we've got in here. And you should line up with these holes here. So we're at the rear crossmember. We're sliding 'em from the rear towards the front, through the holes, so our threads poke out. And then, once we do that, we're gonna slide this crossmember as far back as we can get it to give us as much room as possible for when we go to put our center section in place. We can then take the same prepared hardware, and we're gonna do basically the same thing for the front one here. The only difference is it's gonna be the opposite as far as the direction it's gonna pass through. So we're gonna be from the front, lift it up, pass our bolts through the crossmember facing towards the rear. Get those to fully pass through, and then we're gonna push this section towards the front as far as we can to try to give ourselves as much room as possible for our center section. I don't think it's probably about it there. Now, with an extra set of hands, we're gonna take our center section here. It's pretty heavy. We're gonna lift it up, lining it up with the hole that we cut out in our bed. There we go. Once you've got that lined up, we can take our crossmembers and pull those towards our assemblies until they slide through. And then, I'm gonna tap 'em a little bit because of that powder coating. And once we get 'em to slide through each one, we can get a nut started, and that'll hold our center section up there while we get the rest of our components installed here. And really, once you get the bolts passing through, that'll hold it up. But I highly recommend getting a nut started on it, so that way nothing can accidentally fall. These are all very heavy components. Alright. We can then go and snug our hardware up. We're not running it down real tight. We're just pretty much taking up all the slack that's left in our bolts here. And that's good enough. We're not going crazy on it. We're now on our passenger side again, and we pulled that fender liner up, and we're threading our bolts into the top of the frame, down through the brackets that we had installed. There's weld nuts located right here into the top, so just kinda set those down there. Drop 'em in place and get 'em started. I recommend getting your bolts all started before you start to tighten anything. So I've got both of these started. I'm gonna move on to the next set of holes, which is at the back crossmember here. And then, I'll head over to the other side of the vehicle to get those installed on that side as well. So now that we've got all of our bolts started, we can go back and start tightening and torquing. We're gonna start with the front crossbar here where it attaches to our center section. We're gonna run that in on each side, and we're also gonna torque it to the specifications outlined in our instructions. Once we torque these across the front center section, then we'll torque those bolts going on top of the frame after this. And we're gonna torque our center section. Now, all of these bolts are gonna be very difficult to access. So you just spend some time down here flipping your wrench around until you find a spot where it all fits and then tighten it down. And now for our side bolts here where they go on top of the frame, I recommend tightening it down first with a wrench. And then, you can go back with a crow's foot. It's about the only thing you're gonna have that's gonna fit in here to finish tour torque. And after we get our bolts going into the frame tightened down, we can then go back and tighten the rest of our bolts. All right. And now that we've got all of our bolts tightened down, what we're gonna wanna do then is just re-torque all those bolts once again, 'cause there can be play that can occur throughout the various components as we tightened them down. And so some of the earlier bolts you torqued may come loose and may need to be re-tightened. So we're just gonna double-check every single one. We can now put our handle in place. This is gonna feed from the outside over top of our frame. So we're just gonna push out on this fender liner a bit, feed this over top the frame and bring it towards our center section here. We've got the handle in going down on the outside, and then on the other side here, this is actually just gonna sit just like this here on the inside. Take the carriage bolt that comes in our kit. And actually, we're gonna have to put this on the outside 'cause we're not gonna be able to get our carriage bolt to go through this direction because of the previously installed hardware there. So put the carriage bolt. Well, if you put it that direction, it's gonna hit on that bolt as well. So let's say we're gonna have to just pull out on the assembly mechanism here to clear the hardware that we've installed. Slide our bolt in. And then, we can slide our handle on the other side of that there. We'll then pull it back out and install the flange nut on the other side. Just like that. Get that started on there. And we'll use a 13-millimeter socket to tighten it down. We can actually use the handle now to pull it out to make things a little easier. And then, we'll just run that down with our 13-millimeter socket. So now, if we look straight up through our center section here at the bottom, on each side of our handle, you're gonna see that you have this hole here. It goes right into the bottom of the bed. On the other side of our center section here, on the other side, we've got the same two sets of holes. That's for our safety cable attachment point. So we're gonna need to drill those out. We're gonna use an 11/16 drill bit to drill these out. And I always like to put a little bit of spray on it just to help the drill bit cut a little bit easier. And we're just gonna take our bit and run it right up through this hole. And what I usually end up doing with these is I'll mark it with the 11/16 bit like that. Our bit doesn't cut very, very well. So we're gonna switch it down to a smaller size that we know cuts well, and we're gonna drill through it with that. And then, we can go up top and finish drilling 'em out from top down. But I'm gonna mark the center of each one with the correct size bit, so that way it's centered. So we drilled all those out with our pilot hole. Now, we're just gonna come back up top and clean those up. I've got my 11/16 here. I've also brought a step bit 'cause I'll end up usually using that to clean up these holes a little bit nicer too as well. Yeah, 'cause this bit just doesn't like to cut very well. So we'll switch to that step bit to finish 'em up. So I tried to move to the step bit. We just kept enlarging 'em until it slides down nicely, just like that. We're gonna enlarge this side the same way. Attachments, drop 'em down through the holes. Gotta make sure that they pull up and down freely. Looks like they're good like that. The threaded part, you're really never gonna have to access too much. So that looks good there. So let's head underneath so we can get those fully secured. So here we are underneath again. Here's the safety chain attachments that we dropped down through the bottom. Simply slide your spring that comes in your kit over it. And you want the smaller diameter side towards the bottom, and just push that up on there. And then, just thread one of your nuts in place. We're gonna do the same thing with the other side here, and then we're gonna tighten these down. But we don't wanna tighten these very tight, we really are just gonna tighten it until the threads here are flush with the bottom. Maybe one thread's passing through, that's about where we wanna stop. It doesn't take much. So go slow with it. And that's about what we want right there. We're flush, maybe a thread sticking through. All right. Now, we're just gonna repeat that same process for the other attachment over here on this side. So now that we've got everything installed down here, we can go ahead and put our exhaust back up. So your hangers just slide back into place. So just kinda push those over where they need to be, lift your exhaust up, and just push 'em back on. Repeat that pry that you took loose. Next, we're gonna head to our fender liners to get those back installed. We are gonna have to make some minor modifications to the driver side to be able to access our handle. So when we put our fender liner back in on this side, if we take a look at it here where our attachments are, the handle is about right there. So we need to access this. So we're gonna just take a razor knife, and we're just gonna cut up and over and then kinda down. You have all the options you want for the pattern that you wanna cut, whether you wanna put just like a square cutout, you wanna do a triangle notch, however you want it to look, you can do it. You just need to be able to cut that to be able to access that handle. So I'm gonna grab a razor knife, and we're gonna trim it with that. This is kind of like a fabric. I did bring a pair of sheers here, but I honestly don't feel like the sheers are gonna cut very well on this fabric. A regular pair of scissors might work fairly well. We're gonna start by kinda marking here. And we know that I wanna come down. And I'm trying to save this attachment point if I possibly can, so that's why I'm kinda coming down at an angle like that. Our handle is right there, so we're gonna come down at a slight angle the opposite direction over there. Make sure this cut goes all the way up here. There we go. And I'm just gonna cut it across. Just right up in there. And that should give us a nice cutout to be able to access our handle, and we can get all of our fasteners reinstalled. If you need more of a cutout than that, you can always cut out more. It just depends on what works best for you at home. So now, we'll wanna do this quick test to make sure our handle's working right, and we also are gonna need to insert our ball. And in order to do that, we need the handle released. So this is the inserted, the locked-in position you could say for when you're ready to tow. Pull out on this, and then we're gonna give it a slight clockwise turn, and that will hold it in place. If we pull it out again and we go slightly counter-clockwise, that'll release it and let it go back in. We wanna have it released though, so we can drop our ball down inside. And if your handle's working okay, all that's really left now is to put your spare tire back and hook up your gooseneck trailer. And that completes our installation of B&W's Turnoverball gooseneck ball on our 2022 Chevrolet Silverado 2500..


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