B and W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2016 Ram 1500

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How to Install the B and W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2016 Ram 1500

Ryan: How's it going Ryan here at etrailer.com. Today on our 2016 Ram 1500, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the B & W underbed gooseneck trailer hitch with custom installation kit. Now here's what the underbed kit is going to look like installed. All of the components are going to be down here as opposed to up top in your bed. That's going to help free up all that space up top. And all that extra space is really going to come in handy when you're not using your hitch.

So whether you're throwing in some construction supplies, loading up a few motorcycles, or even just have your luggage for your family vacation, you're not going to have to worry about losing your bed space.Now, one of the things that's kind of different and something I kind of like about this is that we're actually going to use a key for this in-bed latching mechanism. And this is actually going to turn and that's what's going to pull our pin in and out instead of your traditional handle that's over in the wheel well. This is really easy to get to and really easy to use. So whenever you're ready to use it, simply put your key in, turn it, and then you can just drop your ball into place. Turn it back and that'll lock it.

And whenever you're done, you can unlock it and you can actually flip the ball over, put it in the hitch, lock it in place. And that's actually how you can store your ball. You're not going to have to worry about it rolling around in the back seat of your truck or worry about keeping it in your glove box or something like that.This kit's going to also allow you to convert over to a fifth wheel very easily. B & W makes a fifth wheel companion, and that simply just plugs right into here. That way if you have multiple trailers, if you have a gooseneck trailer or fifth wheel trailer, you can tow both with the same truck very easily.Now our safety chain loops are going to be spring-loaded that way when we're not using them, they're going to sit flush and they're not going to rattle around.

Now these are also going to come up high enough and be large enough to use just about any size hook that you might have. Now the hitch is going to have a 30,000 pound maximum gross trailer weight rating. So that's going to be the amount of weight pulling on our hitch. So that's the weight of your trailer plus anything you might have on it. As far as the vertical load limit goes, that's going to be 7,500 pounds.

It's going to be the amount of weight pushing down on the hitch. But something I do want to point out, it's always a good idea to check with your owner's manual to make sure your truck can pull that amount of weight.Now, the ball itself is going to be two and 5/16th of an inch in diameter. Now other than those few features we just talked about, there's going to be one other thing that kind of separates a B & W from many of the other hitches, and that's going to be the quality of construction. I've had quite a bit of experience with gooseneck and fifth wheel hitches, and I can tell you right now the B & W does have an advantage. They typically fit much, much better, like they we're designed specifically for your truck. The quality of the brackets is much better, the finish, even down to the hardware. So in my opinion, that's going to be the biggest difference that separates a B & W from many of the others.To begin our installation I went ahead and removed our spare tire. Now you don't have to do this, but it will help. Now what we can do is get in the bed and take some measurements. The measurement that we're taking is going to be to find the area that we need to drill the hole for our hitch. Now there is some measurements in the instructions that gives you the lengths that you need to follow. But where we're going to measure from is from the end of our bed, and it's very important that you measure from the bed itself and not the tailgate, and that'll find the length. And then to find the center of the bed, what you can do is measure from wheel well to wheel well, split the difference and make your mark. And that'll be the spot that we need to drill.And then another measurement you're going to need to take is for the smaller three quarter inch hole. So I went ahead and measured from the bed and the measurement and instructions from the center of our larger hole to find where our smaller hole is going to be. Once we have those measurements down, what we can do is open up our larger hole. So I'm first going to use a small bit and drill a pilot hole. Once our pilot hole is made, we can then use a hole saw to make that large hole. Now I'm just going to use a hand file and kind of go around the opening that we made to remove any burrs. Now we can vacuum up all of our metal shavings. Now since we do have some bare metal along the edge of our hole, I'm just going to use some clear spray paint and paint it to help protect it from any rust. Now repeat that same process for our smaller hole. So I'll drill it out, file the burrs down, vacuum everything up, and then put on some spray paint to protect that bare metal.Now we can come to our rear wheel wells and remove the liner. That's going to be held in place with multiple eight millimeter screws. So we're going to have a handful of them running along the edge of our wheel well. And we're going to have two here on the inside. Once all of the screws are removed, you can come to one of the edges. We'll just carefully peel that liner back. And once we free it, we'll go ahead and set it off to the side. And then we're going to repeat this same process over on the other side. Now, if we come over here to the driver's side, we're going to have some wiring that runs along the top of our frame. And it also cuts over to the other side, underneath the bed. Now we're going to have to unclip it from the frame, that way we can make room for our hitch. So it makes it really easy if you have a trim panel removal tool or a flathead screwdriver will work too. But just get underneath those clips, kind of pry them out of the frame. We're going to have a couple here on the outside and get those free and then move underneath the truck to get the rest of them.Underneath the truck, here's the wiring that runs across and that's where we're going to have to unclip it. So there'll be a handful of clips along the way that will pop off. And once that is free, we're also going to have this vent tube coming from our rear axle that we need to take off as well. Now the vent tube clips are kind of tricky to see, wo you'll kind of have to go by feel, but there's going to be a couple clips and you'll just grab them, kind of work them around until you get them to come free. There's going to be another clip on the vent tube up here on the frame rail. It's a little tricky to get to, but it's the same style. Just kind of pull it off. Once we have the vent tube free, what we're going to do is pull it and just let it hang down for now.Now we have our rear cross member. Now before we put that in, what we're going to do is clean out all these threaded holes, because sometimes from the powder coating can get into the threads and make it a little difficult to thread our bolts in, especially when it's up above our head and we're trying to hold everything in place. So what I like to do before we even put it in is clean these holes out. So I'll use a little lubricant, take one of the bolts and just make sure it threads in there nice and easily. And I'm going to do that for all of the holes in this cross member.Now that we have all of our thread holes cleaned out, you can go ahead and put this in place. Now this is the rear brace, and the way we're going to do this is come over to the passenger side of the truck and one side will be notched like this. We're going to want this to face the driver's side of the truck, and we're going to want this notch to face towards the back of the truck. So we're going to put it in this opening here in between our spring and this bed mount. Slide it all the way across until it rests on the other side of the frame, just like that. Now we can take our brace and slide it towards the back of the truck. That's actually going to rest on top of this cross member here. And what this notch is for, this notch is there to allow the wiring to run through that. That way it doesn't get pinched or anything like that.Take it and push it towards the back of the truck. Once we get close, what you can do is rotate that up. Once you have it flipped up, what you're going to want to do is make sure that that wire going through that cutout in our bar isn't pinched or hung out or anything like that. Now we can put in our center section, but there is something I do want to point out before we put it up, is that you'll notice that the area where we actually put our ball, that is offset. So it's sitting close to the one side. Well, the side here that it's sitting closest to, I went ahead and marked it. This is going to face towards the front of the truck.So how we're going to get our center section in place is we're actually going to come up through this opening and flip it up flat, and then we'll be able to slide it back, and that way we'll be able to clear our exhaust and the exhaust will actually kind of support it a little bit. Once we have it up there, we can push it all the way back. We're going to try and get the hole in the hitch as close as we can to the hole in the bed that we made. This is a little tight. You may need an extra set of hands to make it a little easier, but it can be done by yourself. Now we can do is go up inside of the bed, make sure everything's lined up, and then we're actually going to support the center section.So now here in the bed of the truck, I went ahead and made sure that our hitch lines up with the hole in the bed of the truck that we made. And what I'm going to do is use this homemade apparatus to actually lift that hitch up and pull it flat against the bottom of our bed, that way it'll stay in place and will be a little easier to get everything bolted on. So what I did was, was got two large blocks of wood and a two by four, and I just got a regular tow strap. I'm going to put one hook in the hook here in our hitch. We'll pull some of the slack out. Put it around the two by four. Take the other end of the hook, put it on that same bar on our hitch. And we can just pull that slack out. That'll actually hold that hitch up flat.Now we're going to loosely install some hardware to connect the center section to the rear brace. Now the hardware that we're going to be using are the inch and a half bolts followed by a split lock washer and then a flat washer. We're going to start in the very center in this middle hole. Once we have this hand tight, we're going to want to put in two more bolts using this same hardware pattern. Now the holes that we're going to put it on are the two furthest outside holes, so this one over here at this end of the center section, as well as this one over here on that end of the center section. Now we can put in our front cross member. Again, we're going to do that from the passenger side of the truck. Now the cross member, one side is going to have holes in it. We're going to want to make sure that these holes are facing towards the back of the truck. And so how this is going to work is we're going to slide it in like this, in this V-shape, and once we have it on both frame rails, what we're going to do is flip it up like this. That way, this flat side with the holes in it will sit against the other side of our center section.Now to get this in, what we're going to do is actually come here in front of the rear tire, in this opening here underneath the frame rail. We got to kind of angle it up like so. We can just keep pushing it towards the driver's side of the truck until we can push it up all the way. We'll scooch it back a little bit, that way it's resting on both sides of the frame rail. Something I do want to point out over here on the driver's side, we are going to have our wiring running through here so you want to make sure that the angle, our cross section, is going to get over it or sit in front of it, rather, that way when we flip it up and flat, it's not going to pinch our wiring. So more or less, just pay attention where your wiring is sitting and when you flip this over, come back, check it, make sure our wires aren't pinched.So with our angle in place, we can then flip it and rotate it up, that way the holes in it will line up with the holes in our center section. Now we're going to install hardware hand tight in these two holes, so the two center holes. And what I'm going to do is take the longer bolt and with the head of the bolt facing the back of the truck, I'm going to slide that through. Then over on the other side, we'll go ahead and finish everything off with a flat washer, a split lock washer, and a hexagon. If you try to put a bolt into this hole, you're not going to have enough room because of this bracket here. So what you can do is either go in the bed and use your tool that's included, slide this over. Or it's not too difficult just to do by hand, which I'm going to do. I'll just get the bolt somewhat close, slide that over, then I'm able to push my bolt completely through. Then I'll go back on the other side and use the same hardware that we did on this side, the flat washer, lock washer, and nut.Now that everything is supporting itself you can go up inside the bed and disconnect your strap that was holding our center section up flat against the bed. Now we can move on to our side plates. We're going to be over here on the passenger side first. What we're going to do is take one of the U bolts, and this is going to slide around the frame, but it's going to go in this pocket here where our spring rests. So you want to make sure to get it as close as you can to the plate. Just slide that U bolt over the frame like that. Now we're going to grab our passenger side inside plate. Now the way this is going to work, this flat side here with these two holes is going to sit like this against the inside of our frame rail and that U bolt is actually going to go through these two holes and then we can secure it on the other side. Now these two holes, these are actually going to line up with our center section as well as our cross brace that runs across.And push our U bolt through it, and we can loosely secure it using a split lock washer and a nut. And I'll use that same hardware combination on the top of our U bolt. Now we're going to loosely install our hardware up here in these top two holes. Now for this hole closest to the center of the truck, what we're going to do is take a longer bolt and a flat washer. We're going to run that through. And for this hole closest to the outside of the truck, we're just going to take a plain shorter bolt. Push that through. Then we go to the other side and use the rest of the hardware to secure it. Now each one of our bolts is going to get a flat washer, a split lock washer, and a nut. We'll get that loosely installed. Now I went ahead and just slid my U bolt over the frame here on the driver's side, just how I did on the passenger side. Now the side plates, the inside side plates over here are going to be just a little bit different than they we're on the passenger side. So I'll explain those to you in the open so we can take a good look at them.Something I do want to point out is these brake lines here. Just keep a good visual of these because our side plate is going to accommodate these and fit around him. So it'll just make a little more sense when I'm explaining how this side plate works. So here's our plates. Now there's going to be two plates. The way these are going to work is this plate here that is notched like so, that's going to sit against the inside of the frame rail, this side is. So if this is the outside of the truck, it's going to be pointing towards the center of the truck and those brake lines that I mentioned, what we're going to do is run those through here. So once we get it up there, we'll kind of have to fish it around and get it to sit flat against the frame. Once the brake lines are in this opening, we're going to take this plate, then this plate is actually just going to sit right on top of it like so. And then these holes, that's where our U bolt will come through on this side.Let me go ahead and put our plates in position. I'm going to work it over them brake lines. Once we gave it over the brake lines, we'll grab that other plate and that'll go underneath the brake lines, or behind them rather. We can get our U bolt lined up and get it put through. We're going to secure it using a split lock washer and a nut on both ends. Now we can secure the two plates together with these two holes. We're going to take an inch and a half bolt. Run one of those through each hole. And on the other side, I'll take a split lock washer and a nut. Now we can put the hardware in our side plate to attach it to our center section. That's going to be the same setup as the other side. We're going to take a long bolt and a flat washer for this hole closest to the center of the truck. Run that through. And then for the hole close to the outside of the truck, we're going to take one of the shorter bolts and just run that through by itself.I went ahead and secured the end of those bolts hand tight using that same hardware combination that we used over on the other side. Now we can install our rear support brace. Now to come right here, we are going to have to put some hardware in. We're going to be putting a bolt in this hole here. So what they give us is this bolt and it has a little handle welded onto it. So what we're going to do is push this bolt in through there and get it to drop down. What that handle's for, not only to help us get it in place, but whenever we tighten it down, it's actually going to act as a stop too, that way the bolt just doesn't free spin and we can never get the nut tightened down. So we have one on this side and we're also going to be dropping one in this hole.Our truck has dual exhaust and this tailpipe is actually going to be an inconvenience. It's going to be in the way and make doing everything a lot more difficult, so we're just going to lower it. Now it's going to be held in place with two rubber isolator hangers. And I went ahead and sprayed them both down with some penetrating oil to help pop them off. Then we'll just take a pry bar and work that rubber hanger off of our exhaust. There's one more hanger right here. We'll go ahead and do that same thing to get that. Now we should have enough room to pull down on our tailpipe and make it a lot easier to work. Now we'll take our rear brace and slide that into possession. We'll put it up and get our handle bolts to drop through. While we're holding it up, we're going to take one of these flange nuts and get that started on each side. That way this rear brace will support itself while we work on the rest of the hardware.Now, if we move to the other side of our rear bracket, we're going to have two more holes that we need to put hardware in. We're going to use a bolt, a split lock washer, and a flat washer. You just get those started on each side. Now we're able to tighten down all of our hardware and we are going to have to do this in a specific order. The hardware that we're going to start with first are these two nuts here on our rear brace. Now we can tighten the two bolts that connect our rear brace to our center section. Now we're going to tighten up the remaining bolts here on our rear cross member. Now we're going to tighten down these two center bolts here on our front cross member. Now we can come over to our U bolts and tighten those down. Now, what we're going to do with these is tightened down each nut a little bit at a time, that way we can draw that U bolt through evenly. So you want about the same amount of thread sticking out of the nut on both top and bottom.On the driver's side plate, come over here and tighten these two bolts down that hold the two plates together. And our side plates, now we can tighten down the two bolts that are attaching it to our front cross rail. Now we can use a torque wrench to torque all of our hardware to the specification found in our instructions. Now you're going to want to use that same tightening sequence for our torquing that we used earlier. Now, once everything is torqued down, we can install our safety chain loops. So from underneath the truck, we're going to have two holes in our center section, and there'll be two of these holes on each side. And so we're just going to drill using our center section as a template through the truck bed, that way we can go up top and drop our safety chain hooks into place.We'll just repeat that same process on the other side. Now up here in the bed, I went ahead and filed all the burrs off of the holes that we drilled. We used the vacuum to suck up all the metal shavings. And then before I dropped my hooks down, I'll use some clear spray paint again just to help protect that bare metal. What you can do is take your hooks, just drop them into place. We can go on the bottom side of the truck and get them secured. This is where our safety chain hooks dropped through. Now, what we're going to do on each one is take a spring and push it up over it. We're going to take one of the nuts, get it started. We'll do that to each one. Once we have them both hand tight, we're going to tighten the nuts down until the bottom of the nut is flush with the bottom of the bowl.I went ahead and just secured my wiring to this factory line here with a few zip ties just to keep it up and out of the way. And I also secured my vent tube. What I did with this, I just ran it up and over the gas tank, used a couple zip ties to hold it in place, and ran the end of it out to the other side. Now we can go ahead and rehang our exhaust the opposite way that we lowered it. And finally, we can go ahead and reinstall our wheel well liners.And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the B & W underbed gooseneck trailer hitch with our custom installation kit on our 2016 Ram 1500.

Questions and Comments about this Video

Leonard S.

Any special considerations with Air suspension?

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jon G.

This B&W Gooseneck Trailer Hitch # BWGNRK1309 is compatible whether you have the air suspension or not. There are some special instructions about relocating the air line in the installation instructions which you can find linked to the product page.

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