B and W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2020 Ram 2500

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How to Install the B and W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2020 Ram 2500


Clayton: Hello, everybody. Clayton here at etrailer.com. Here at etrailer.com, we install, test and review a lot of different products to help you as a customer make more educated decision before you purchase. Today, we're going to be working on a 2020 Ram 2500. We're going to be taking a look at and I'll be showing you how to install the B&W Turnoverball Gooseneck Hitch.A gooseneck hitch is going to allow us to hook up to a gooseneck trailer. You actually can buy an adapter to use this with a fifth wheel as well.

So, it's going to be pretty versatile, and towing from your rear axle is going to be a lot smoother than a bumper pull or anything else like that. Not only that, you do get a higher weight capacity. This hitch offers us a 30,000 pound weight capacity. We're also going to have a vertical load limit of 7,500 pounds. Now, pairing that with the 30,000 pounds total trailer capacity, you want to keep in mind that's the weight of the trailer and the load included, but it always is a good idea to check with your ramps owner's manual to make sure that your truck is capable of those numbers.

Always go with the lowest number between the two.The best part about the Turnoverball is that the ball actually comes out. Normally, there'd be a cover or something you put over this, but you just simply flip your ball over and store it in the bed. It'll always be there and your gooseneck hole is covered. So you don't have to worry about dirt or debris getting in there. It's going to be really easy to live with and use every day.

Our safety chain loops are sprung down, so you don't have to worry about those bouncing around. They're going to look nice. They're going to sit nice and flush to your bed as well.B&W is one of the leaders in gooseneck and fifth wheel pulling, and that's simply because everything is overbuilt. It's really sturdy. It's made out of steel.

You don't have to worry about it deteriorating over time and has a really nice gray powder coat finish so you don't have to worry about rust or corrosion either. Our ball is going to be a standard 2-5/16" ball, so it's going to be really nice. It's going to be a very common. Another feature I really like is going to be these rounded edges. It's just going to keep dirt and debris from building up in your hitch. Like I said, it's going to make life a lot easier.This is that arm that releases the pin that goes through the ball. Whenever you're ready to tow or flip the ball back over, simply just pull out on this, move your ball, then push that back in. Another nice feature is this kit is going to work with your truck even if it does have the RamBoxes. I know that's a big concern because your bed's a little bit more narrow. But you don't have to worry, this kit will work fine. You do want to keep in mind that this kit is for trucks without an OEM prep package. Now this kit is pretty simple to install. There's no drilling or anything like that. It's really easy to get this put in here. The hardest part is going to be drilling the holes in your bed. Well, that being said, I'll walk you through how to get it installed now.To start our installation, we want to remove our spare tire. Now this isn't required, but it is going to give us a lot more room to work so we can actually get up above our axle and get everything installed properly. With our spare tire removed, we now need to remove our heat shield. On our heat shield, we're going to have six 10-millimeter bolts. We're going to have three over here on the far right side, one here more towards the middle and then two on this top brace here. We'll go ahead, get that removed. We can now set this off to the side.Our next step is going to be to lower down our exhaust. However, we do need to support it before we do that. We're going to support our exhaust using a cam buckle strap. If you don't find or you don't have one, you can find one here at etrailer.com. Now, there's going to be a couple of holes in the side of our frame rail. We're just going to take our hooks around that behind our exhaust and hook it into that hole in our frame rail on both sides. We'll cinch that down. We can grab our lubricant. We're just going to spray down our exhaust hanger.With our hanger sprayed down, we can now grab a pry bar, just going to pry against our exhaust to get our isolator off. And we have our isolator removed, and the exhaust really doesn't move that much, so you can feel free to remove the cam buckle strap now. Now I'm going to grab this piece provided in our kit. There's going to be an oblong hole here. There's actually going to be a hole on the front part of our crossmember here. We want to take this bracket. We're going to slide it behind like so. You can see our bracket comes out right here. We just want to slide this over to where our hole lines up over here. With it all lined up and lifted, we want to grab a paint marker or a pencil or anything that we can make a mark on our bed. And this is going to tell us where to drill our hole.Now going to lower this down and we'll remove that bracket. We want to grab 1/4" drill bit. We're just going to drill out on that spot that we marked. We'll start off nice and slow making sure that it doesn't walk. This is where our hole came through in our bed. Now I want to grab a 3-1/2" hole saw to drill this out. Now, before we start drilling into the bed, I do suggest grabbing some plywood. You can drill a hole in that, and that's just going to keep our bit from walking around. We can grab our plywood, slide that over our hole. With everything lined up, we just want to kneel on our plywood and keep it from moving.With our hole drilled, we're going to clean up all of our shavings. Now just want to grab a file and kind of knock down any of these edges. With all our edges knocked down, just want to grab some black spray paint or any color that fits your truck. We'll just kind of paint this to keep it from rusting. Now, we'll just allow our paint dry for a little bit, and then we can continue with our further steps.Our next step is going to be to grab this bracket with our two nuts welded into it. We want to slide it up and over our bracket here and get these holes lining up with these two outermost holes in our bracket. So going to take this from the front, going to have to kind of work it in around everything. It is kind of tight, so you're just going to have to be careful maneuvering it. Once you get that close, you can kind of slide it around and work it with the longer side to get that lined up, just like that. We'll repeat that same process on the other side.Now it's time to lift our centerpiece into position. I do suggest grabbing an extra set of hands just to help you to get that hardware started. Now, we just want to take our bracket, kind of slide it up over our brake lines. It's kind of hard to see, but there is going to be two bolts on the outside for the front and the back. So you're going to have two here and then two on the front of this crossmember on the other side. Now it is important that you want this triangle facing the rear of your truck. You want this hole in the middle. Now we can go ahead and get our two bolts started on each side with those plates that we inserted.Now, in this part, inaudible 00:07:22 have to be careful not to move this whole plate once you get the bolt started. As you saw, when I tighten that down, that whole plate moved. So you just want to kind of shift it back and then make sure everything's lined up. Now we just want to come back with a 24-millimeter socket and tighten all these down all the way. And if you are having trouble kind of getting all this hardware up here, because it is kind of tight, it is pretty easy to take this back portion of your exhaust off. We have a clamp right up there. It's just a 15-millimeter socket to take that off. We're going to go ahead and do that just to make it a little bit easier to get in and torque everything down.With our tailpipe off, you can see there's a whole lot more access to get everything tightened and torqued down. With all of our hardware snugged down, we are now ready to come back and torque it down. Our torque specs are going to be listed in our instructions, Moving over into our driver's side rear wheel, there's going to be some electrical connectors right here underneath of our inner fender. Now, if you want, you can trim this out, but our customer doesn't want to. And there is enough clearance right here to get the tool in here to lift up on our wiring.We just want to grab our trim panel tool. If you don't have one of these, you can find one here at etrailer.com. We're just going to reach in right here and pop up our electrical connectors. You might have to flex this wheel on here a little bit to get in there, and like I did say, you can't take it off if you'd like or kind of notching it, but you don't have to. With our wiring lifted up and out of the way, we can now grab our arm. We want our end with the four square holes facing in. So we'll slide this in just like that, and you want this facing up so we can get a nice pull. You don't want it to face down because it could come into contact with our wheel if we go off-roading or anything like that. So having that facing up is going to be nice and safe. We'll just slide that through like so. We'll go back underneath and get it on the bottom.Now we'll grab our bracket that looks like this, and then we'll reach through and grab our arm right here. Our kit is going to come with four small carriage bolts. We just want to take one of those and drop it to the outermost holes in our pulling arm. So we'll drop that through just Like so. We want to lift up and slide our bracket into place. With that lined up, you can see the bolt on the bottom. Our kit is going to come with four small flange nuts as well. When we tighten these down, we want the flat part facing up towards the bracket.With our first flange nut hand tight, now I come back and add the second one on the bracket. I just want to come back with a 15-millimeter socket and tighten down those flange nuts the rest of the way. Now I just want to take our other carriage bolts and slide them through our arm here. You might have to pull it out a little bit. You just want to be careful not to release it on your finger. We'll slide that one through like so. Then we'll add a flange nut on the backside. We'll repeat that same process for our top hole as well. We'll come back with that 15-millimeter socket and tighten those down. Just want to come back to the outside. We'll just pull this out. Then we'll jump back into our bed and we can drill our safety chain openings.Just want to grab our ball. We'll set it on top of our pin. We can grab our provided template. Just slide that over like so. Now we are going to have holes in this template and that's going to tell us where to drill for our safety chain openings. We do want this thicker part of the cardboard facing the tailgate. Now, when we draw out these two front holes on each side, they're going to go clean through our crossmember underneath, but our back holes are going to hit that crossmember. So we're going to be drilling through our bed and then again our crossmember. So just keep that in mind. Now we are going to start with a small drill bit just to get a pilot hole going. Repeat that same process for this hole.Now, for our back holes, I'm just going to spin it a little bit and get it started. We're going to actually pull our template off and finish drilling. With our holes opened up, we want to grab our 11/16" drill bit and open up these holes the rest of the way. With our holes drilled out and I grab our safety chains and make sure they fit. Those drop in real nice and flush. We'll just repeat that same process on the other side.With the holes drilled out for our safety chain loops, we now want to pull these back out. Just going to grab some black spray paint and spray down those holes just to prevent any rust or corrosion over time. You do want to make sure to get good coverage because there are rough edges underneath our bed. Now we just want to let that dry. Once its dry, we can throw our safety chains back in and then go underneath.This is where the safety chain loops drop through. We just want to grab our spring provided. We'll just slide that over the safety chain. We just want to push that spring up a little bit, just enough to where we can get our bolt started. You just push that spring up. You can kind of move the safety chain loop and press it against the hitch to keep that spring from coming back down. We just want to get this started. This is a lock nut, so it's only going to go on a couple of threads. Once this is on like so, now do that same process for our remaining bolts.Now we'll come back with our 24-millimeter socket and tighten down our nuts. Now we just want to tighten it down towards the bottom of our U-bolt that is flush with the opening on the bottom of our nut. Just a little bit more, make sure to keep that one tight so it doesn't come off there. Just like that, it's flush. We'll repeat that same process for our remaining bolts. With everything tightened down and installed, we now want to reinstall our exhaust, our heat shield, and our spare tire in the reverse order that we took them apart.With everything reinstalled, we're now ready to hook up to our trailer and hit the road. That's going to do it for our look at any installation of the B&MW Turnoverball Gooseneck Hitch on our 2020 Ram 2500.


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Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
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Jacob T
Employee Chris R
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Chris R
Employee Jonathan Y
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Jonathan Y
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
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Employee Clayton O
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Clayton O

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