B and W Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2020 Toyota Tundra

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How to Install the B and W Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2020 Toyota Tundra

Hi there, Toyota owners. Today on your 2020 Toyota Tundra, we're going to be taking a look, at and showing you how to install B&Ws underbed gooseneck kit. And this is what our hitch looks like when it's installed. The entire hitch is installed underneath the bed with just our ball mounting hole here protruding here through the top, as well as our safety cable loops. The ball is removable, and it has holes that pass all the way through it on each side. No matter what your orientation, you drop it down in there, it's going to be able to latch and lock it in place.I also liked that the ball here, if you look at the edges, how they kind of rounded those off, that just really makes it easier for the ball to drop down in there.

We don't have to worry about real tight fits, that's going to get caught up with a bunch of dirt and gunk and make it hard for our ball to go in and out. Having that little opening really makes it a lot easier down the road. And some of you out there may be familiar with B&W's underbed gooseneck kits. And with most of those, you can take the ball here and flip it over and store it. So you get a nice flat truck bed.Unfortunately, with our Tundra here, we just don't have the clearance between our axle and the ball here to store it in the lower position.

So you can't do that with this one, that does also limit the accessories you can use with it. With this guy here, most of your accessories that B&W offers aren't going to work with it due to that clearance issue. But we do have B&W's hitch extender here etrailer.com, which will take your ball and position it further back into your bed. So if you've got some issues with your gooseneck trailer, potentially getting too close to your cab when making tight turns, you can bring that back to help give you that extra clearance you need.Additionally, if you have a fifth wheel trailer that you also like to haul, you can use B&W's companion. It does need to be modeled RVK3500 in order to work with this particular one.

And once you order that one, you do need to call B&W and have the adapter that's required for it to work with this one. So you can get that part to install it. It doesn't come included and it's not a purchasable part, but B&W's got your back on that one. In addition to our ball, here on each side, we've got our retractable safety chain loops. They're spring loaded.

So when you're not using them, they'll shoot down and stay flush with the bottom our bed. So it's not distracting us when we're using it like a truck. And we got one of those on each side.When you're not hauling with your truck, you can pull your bed out and get a nice clean truck bed by inserting the rubber seal that goes in there and just pushes down in place, displaying the B&W logo and keeping out any dirt and debris in your hole when you're not using it. The ball that comes included with it is a 2-5/16 inch diameter ball. And this hitch has a gross towing capacity of 30,000 pounds. And that's how much it can pull behind it. It also has a 7,500 pound tongue weight, which is the vertical load limit.Now, as always, I recommend that you verify in your vehicle's owner's manual, and you ensure you don't exceed any of its towing. If you're looking to insert or remove your ball, there's a handle on the driver's side here. We pull out on it, and then give it a slight twist clockwise, that'll lock it in place. And this is the unlocked position here. So you can easily take that ball in or out as you need to. And then when you're ready, we can just turn it counterclockwise and it'll slide back in. It is spring loaded. So it'll keep itself latched into place. And now our balls stuck in there and it can't come out. And we're ready to hit the road.Included with our hitch here. We're also going to have a custom rail kit that's designed for our Tundra. There's only some very minor drilling required, and that's just for our loops here. The rest of it bolts into place, and it's one of the easier kits that I've installed here. So why don't you follow along with me, so you can have the confidence to do it at home. We'll begin our installation by drilling out a four-inch hole in our bed for our ball to pass through.In your instructions, you'll have measurements for both your long and short bed trucks telling how far from the rear of the bed of the truck to the point that we'll need to measure and then center it and then cut it out. And we want to make sure that when we're measuring, we're going from the end of our truck bed, not the tailgate, but the end of the actual bed here. So from here all the way down. I went ahead and just marked the location. And then we're going to use our four inch hole saw here to drill it out.Now that we've got that cut out, we can just take some clear coat and spray it on here to clean it up. I'm going to use a vacuum as well to get rid of all the shavings before putting the clear coat on it. We're now underneath our vehicle where we're going to need to remove a heat shield. A lot of the work we're going to be doing from now on is going to be underneath. We're on a lift. But if you're working at home, you could easily jack it up by your frame to give yourself a little more room to work, then just make sure you have it supported with jack stands.The heat shield's held on by two bolts that we're going to remove using a 10 millimeter socket. We'll just set this aside for now. Next, we'll need to get our charcoal canister out of the way. The electrical connector located here, we're just going to press in on the release tab on top. And then we can just pull that to disconnect it. And then we're going to remove the two bolts here that hold up this bracket onto the canister. We're then going to use our 10 millimeter socket.Once we get those two out, you can just let that drop down and it can just hang. I'm going to thread these in here so I don't lose them. And then we're going remove the entire charcoal canister. There's four bolts that hold it on. Two on each side. You can see the top of one right here. And they're basically just right on the outside. So we got two here, they go into this black beam here. And then on the opposite side of this, you'll have two more. We're going to use a 12 millimeter socket to remove those.When you remove the last bolt, just kind of support it. Then we're just going to gently lower it down here, and it's just going to kind of hang out here. If you want, you can put a little bungee cord strap on it or something to help relieve some tension off of the hoses that are attached to it. Also, to give ourselves some additional room, we went ahead and lowered down our spare tire. You can find information on lowering down your spare tire in your owner's manual. You'll slide it through the square in the back. And it will go through the slot here, with the tools that come provided with your truck.We'll also need to lower down our exhaust. So I've got a strap over here. I just hooked it on the cross member on one side. We're going to hook it over here on the other side of the cross member to create a cradle here at the bottom to catch our exhaust. You don't want it to fall down too far. Here at the back, we've got a hanger. We're just going to use our pry bar here just to pry that off of there. And we can just let that hang out right there. And we're going to go towards the front of the vehicle some. We'll have another hanger right here behind our muffler. We're just going to pry this one off of there.And if we go a little bit further forward and we'll have another one. This one here is going to have one just on the other side here. We can go ahead and pry both of these out. You're having a difficult time getting these to pry off. You can use a little bit of spray lubricant that can help ease the hangers to slide off better. So then back underneath the vehicle here, in the module located here on the driver's side, on the inside of the frame rail, just above your axle at the back, we're going to get this guy out of the way. So just on the other side of the frame, there's a nut we're going to remove with a 12 millimeter socket.And once you've got that nut removed, that module we can then just pull out and set it off to the side. We're just going to go ahead and leave it connected, it's just going to kind of hang down. We don't really need to disconnect it at this point. We'll be reattaching it later. But we need this area to be clear so we can get our components in. Now, just directly across on the passenger side here, we're going to have a wiring harness that runs up here. We're just going to get this guy out of the way. There's a clip right here. We can use our pliers to just squeeze those little ears on the outside. And then the clip will just pop up and we can just pull this down and just kind of pull it down here on the inside.We can now put our cross members into place. These ones have a channel. We're going to start with these first. If you look straight down on it, it's almost like a C shape. We want the edges here that are sticking off to face towards the front of the vehicle. So when we go to put it in, we're going to have the angles facing down. And we want the small piece that hangs off a little bit further here, the skinnier portion that shoots off, to be towards the front of the vehicle. We can then slide it above our frame rail, and push it across until it goes all the way over to the other side, above the frame rail over there.It can be a tight fit. So you may need a rubber mallet or something, just kind of help tap it along the way. Once you've got it slid across it, we can then rotate it down. And then we're just going to push this all the way as far forward as it'll go. Then we'll move into sliding and our next cross member piece. Next we're going to be sliding in the flat pieces that go behind those cross-member pieces. So this is just go in, slide it across. I've got these towards the front again, so we can get this down, just like we did with the previous piece we just ran across.After you've got it in, you may need to go underneath just to finish going across because this one's so much thinner, it's kind of floppy going in. So we'll bring this one over, just like we did the other one. We're going to flip that one down and slide it towards the front. We're going to repeat this same process again, but with the channel, instead of facing towards the front, we're going to have it face towards the rear, making sure that the rear most piece is the one with the channel and then the flat piece is going to go in beside it. So what we should see at the end is a channel piece, flat piece, then a flat piece and a channel piece.We're now going to get our center section put into place. You want to make sure that your handle here with the spring on it is facing towards the driver's side. You can see the slotted holes that we've got going down each side here. We're going to be lining those up with the center holes here in our beams that we put in. So we're going to go ahead and slide this towards the rear a little bit. Slide our carriage bolts through both of those. And then we can go ahead and slide it back forward a little bit. We're going to lift our center section into place.We're going to line up that slotted hole with our carriage bolt. And now normally you're going to be putting on a flat washer, lock washer, followed by a nut. But just to get this held up here, to make it easier to install the rest of the hardware, I'm going to just put a nut on it for now. And I can go back later and add those washers and lock washers, while I'm not having to hold everything up. So now that we got that in there, we are going to have to slide it towards the rear a little bit to get your carriage bolts in. But the three remaining holes here, we're going to be filling those in. So we're just going to slide our carriage bolt through just like we did before, except this time we're going to make sure we put on all the hardware sliding on that flat washer, lock washer and nut.And this is a good time, once you got this one started, to go back to that nut over there on the other side, if you just put a nut on it and add in those washers and lock washers. We're going to fill in all the three on this side. And then we can come back and line up our slotted holes with those in our rear section, and get those all hand started as well. We now need to put our frame attachment brackets on. And these are going to be different depending on the driver or passenger side. Our driver side's going to have these little notches in them here, these little bracket ears that stick out the side.We're going to take that bracket here. We're going to slide it up in so it sits on the bottom part of our frame, and it also sits on top the frame, and then goes in between our center section. We're now going to take the largest hex bolt that comes in our kit, we're going to slide on a flat washer on it and then follow that up with the oblong spacer that comes in our kit. This can then slide up through the bottom of the frame, up into our bracket. We're then going to follow this up with a lock washer and a nut. We'll then repeat that for the upper bolt through the top of the frame as well.Now that we've got both of these started, we're going to repeat the same process over on the other side. You do want to pay close attention to the oval spacers that come in your kit. You're going to have two that are 1/8 inch thick and two that are a 1/4 inch thick. The 1/4 inch thick are for the lower bolts that go through the bottom section of the frame. And the thinner ones are for the upper bolts that goes through the top section of the frame. And now the remaining holes we've gotten our crossbars, and our side plates here, we're going to slide carriage bolts through just like we did with the one towards the middle. And we're going to follow these up with flat washers, lock washers and nuts, just like we did with our other hardware.So we're just going to repeat this for the other bolt here on the opposite side of our side plate here. And then for both bolts for the other side plate on the other side. We can then go back and tighten down all of our hardware. We're going to use a 3/4 inch socket to tighten down all of the nuts on our cross beams to our center section here. And then we can go and tighten up the larger bolts for our side plates. Those are going to use a 15/16 socket and you'll likely need a wrench to hold the nut on the other side.Make sure that your washer goes flush against the bottom of the frame. If you see a gap, then your oblong spacer is likely not set inside that oblong hole. So you just want to loosen it back up and get that spacer to make sure it goes in the hole properly, and everything goes nice and flush. We can then go back and torque our hardware to the specifications found in our instructions. We'll want to make sure we tighten down the bolts that attach the crossbeams to our center section first. Then we can attach the ones that connect our cross beams to the side plates. And last we'll attach the side plates to the frame. We're going to torque it to the specifications, found in our instructions.Now that we've got everything torqued down. We've got a few more components we need to install. We're going to be putting our handle in for the release lever. This is going to start on the outside of our frame. It's going to go over top of the frame. And then as we come towards the inside, there's a small slit in our hitch here. We're going to make sure we slide through that. And then once we've got it through here, I'm just pushing it towards the front of the vehicle now. Because now we're going to grab the release rod here, and you want to be careful, keep your fingers away from this side, on the spring mechanism side over there. We're going to pull it out and then we're going to tip it down. Right here, pull that down on the little lever end. And that's going to keep it in the release position for us.This is just going to give us a little bit extra clearance to get our bolt in with that tip down. So now we're going to bring our handle over, line it up over top there. We can then take the small carriage bolt that comes in our kit, and we're going to drop it down from the top through our handle, and slide the handle back some until we can get the carriage bolt dropped down through the little hole there. Just like this. And on the bottom, we're just going to secure that with a flange nut.So now that we've got it started there, we're going to grab our handle on the outside and give it a little twist. So it retracts back in and then we'll tighten it down with a 1/2 inch socket. Twisting on your handle can help ensure that the nut catches against the carriage bolt so you can get it tightened down. We can now put in our safety loops. There are four holes in our hitch. There's two on each side. You can see those here on our driver's side. We're going to use a 1/2 inch drill bit to drill these out. And we're just going to use our hitch as a template.We'll then repeat that for the three remaining holes. We're now back up on top of our bed here, and we're going to vacuum up the shavings we made from drilling out those holes. And then just like we did with the large hole, we're going to put a little clear coat on these small ones just to help protect them against corrosion. Now we can take our safety chain loops and these are just going to drop down through our holes. And then we can go back down below and secure those. We're now back underneath where we can see our loops passing through here for our safety chains.We're going to take the springs that come included with our kit. We're going to slide it over one end and then we're going to start a nut on it. We're going to do the same thing for the other side of this little loop here. And then we're going to do the same thing to the other safety chain loop over on the other side. We'll then use our 3/4 inch socket to snug these down and we just want to tighten it until the nut is flush with the bottom of the U bolt.That's pretty much what we're looking for right there. We're just going to repeat that for the three remaining ones. We can now go back and reinstall the components that we had moved out of our way. I'm going to start with the fuel one on the sides. We just slid that back through, restart our nut and then tighten it back down. Nothing big on this guy, nothing really changed. We just had to get it out of the way so we can tighten everything down. Next, we're going to put up our charcoal canister, and it's going to go back up just how it came down. So we're just going to re-install those bolts.Now this is a spot where you may need to use one of the extensions that come in your kit, if this is in the way. So we're going to go ahead and set this up here and it looks like we're not going to have any issues. Go ahead and just pull your lever just to make sure that it's all going to clear. It looks like everything's going to clear, so we can go ahead and grab our electrical connector here, plug it in. And then just re-install these nuts. If you we're having clearance issues with these components, the nut here on the end, you can be removed. And there's a spacer that comes in your kit that will allow you to space this out, to get it out of the way. And you can see that spacer here right here, would just slide on and you'll get a new carriage bolt and nut, to just bring that bracket out further. We're going to go ahead and just zip this down then we're going to pull our handle one more time, just to make sure that we don't have any clearance issues.Lastly, we're going to go to our exhaust and we're going to install it. One of the parts that comes into your kit is this little hook here. And this allows us to drop down our exhaust a bit to give us some extra clearance between it and our hitch there. We are going to use this one. So just go ahead and pull your hanger rubber the isolator completely off. This is going to slide in through there. It's a little bit tough, but if you just work it around like that, that drops our exhaust down here in the back so we can then just slide this on here, and slide it over this one as well. And then we can lift it up and reinstall it onto the hanger.We'll then just re-install the rest of the isolators as well, just by pushing them back into place. Now we've got everything installed, we just want to check our handle to make sure that it operates smoothly. So you just want to pull it in and out, make sure that it goes in and out smoothly, and that it can lock into its release position. In order for ours to operate smoothly, we did have to cut just a little bit out here on the bottom of the inner fender liner over on our driver's side, because it was rubbing on this, causing it to bind up, as well as causing it to knock out of the latch position.And then don't forget to put your spare tire back in place. And that completes our installation of B&Ws underbed gooseneck kit on our 2020 Toyota Tundra.

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