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Blue Ox Base Plate Kit Installation - 2011 Ford Edge

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How to Install the Blue Ox Base Plate Kit on a 2011 Ford Edge


Speaker 1: Today on this 2011 Ford Edge, we will be having a look at and showing you how to install the Blue Ox Base Plate Kit with Removable Arms, part number BX2628.Here's what our base plate looks like installed. This base plate gives us the vital connection point between our Ford Edge and our motor home, allowing us to safely and easily flat tow it. One of the great features about this base plate compared to others on the market, is that once we have arrived at our destination and we have unhooked our tow bar from our base plate, we have these removable arms where you can pull this pin, rotate it 90 degrees, and remove the arm and you have very little sticking out from the front, giving you a nice, clean look. Our other side's the same way.Next to where our removable arm goes into, we have our safety cable attachment point right here. Your safety cables will go in here, and then clip onto your motor home, providing you the sense of security and the required safety cable that you need when you're flat towing. Over towards the driver's side a little bit we have an attachment point here for mounting any electrical connectors that we may have, such as a six way round, a four pole flat, or whatever other electrical style connector that we're using in order to provide our Edge with a towed vehicle lighting system or part of your braking system.

We also have an included bracket to mount a breakaway switch if you're using a supplemental braking system in your Edge.Now, when our arms are not in place in the socket in our base plate, we do have included plugs that insert, to help keep any dirt and debris from entering, making it difficult for us to insert our arms later when we want to flat tow our vehicle again. Now, when we want to insert our removable arms, we simply grab our plug, pull it out. We'll take our tab here, insert it at a horizontal position. Push, rotate 90 degrees, and then our spring loaded pin will keep our removable arm from rotating.Now, what sets this base plate apart from other options on the market is that this is very easy to hook up to when you're ready to hook up to your motor home. Also, it doesn't add any extra length to our vehicle at all, giving us a nice clean look, and we don't have to worry about walking into things.

Our safety cable attachment point and both our socket for our removable arm don't even stick out further than our license plate bracket on our vehicle. Now that we've gone over some features, we'll show you how to get it installed.To begin our install, we have our hood open. There are six fasteners we need to remove going across the top of our fascia. We have three on each side. We have two plastic push pin fasteners, and then a 10 millimeter bolt.

The way these plastic push pin fasteners work, is you use a Philip screwdriver, rotate out the center section. Then you can grab it, pull out the center section, and then the whole section will lift out with it. We'll repeat that same process for the other fasteners. For our bolts, just a 10 millimeter socket.In each one of our wheel wells, we will find three 5.5 millimeter screws that we need to remove. Keep in mind that all the fasteners we're going to remove on one side of the vehicle, we'll have identical ones on the other side.

Now, underneath on each corner, we'll have two more 5.5 millimeter screws to remove. It'll be helpful to remove this third one here as well. Additionally, we have a push pin fastener that secures our mud flaps at the bottom edge of our fascia. Use a trim panel tool or a flat head screwdriver and pop out the center section, and then the whole pin will come out.Underneath in the center, we'll have three more push pin fasteners to remove. These work the same way as the ones in our wheel wells. Now with an extra set of hands, we'll grab our fascia where it meets our fender, pull it out and away. We'll find some electrical connectors for our fog lights; you may or may not have these in your vehicle. Push in on the tab on the side, and pull back. Here's the tab right here. Now we'll set it aside where it won't get damaged.Now we need to remove our headlight assemblies. We'll find four bolts on each one. Two towards the center near our radiator, one at the top of our core support, and then the final one is next to where our fender is. Grab the headlight assembly, pull it forward, and there's two electrical connectors we need to remove. This one, we need to rotate and pull out. Then we can press on this tab here and pull back. I'll put the bulb back in so it doesn't get damaged. This one just on the black tab right there, push, and pull back.Now our next step is to remove our washer fluid reservoir. Now, when we do that it's going to spill washer fluid, and since ours is full, I'm going to drain it before we remove it. That way, we can save the fluid and put it back in once it's reinstalled. Easiest way to drain it is to put a bucket underneath it. We'll remove our level sensor connector here by pressing on the tab, pulling up, and then we'll twist out our level sensor. We'll also pull out our pump to drain a little bit more. Now, in order to remove our tank, there's three nuts we need to remove. 10 millimeter one right here, another one in the back corner that's right next to our wheel liner, and at the top we have an 8 millimeter bolt that goes to our coolant reservoir.Now we can grab our reservoir, slide it off the studs, and let it fall down and we can set it aside. Now we need to remove our bumper beam. We have a total of four bolts per side. We have two 10 millimeter bolts at the top and bottom, and then two 13 millimeter bolts off to the side. Now, when we remove these bolts, our radiator support will lower itself a little bit. Don't be alarmed. Additionally, we found one more 13 millimeter bolt on the bottom on each side. Now we can lift off our bumper beam and set it aside.With our bumper beam removed, we have these circular holes on both of our frame rails. Now, we need to make two notches that go down on the outside of the hole, and then we'll fold this tab down. To do this, I'll just use a rotary tool. You can also use a grinder, a sawzall, a jigsaw, anything that you have that can cut through metal. Now to fold this in, I'll use a pry bar and a hammer. Now on the outside edge of our frame rail, the weld seam goes up a little bit. We need to hit it with a hammer until it's flat and level with the other section right here. That's good enough. It doesn't matter if it points down, you just need to have it at the same level or a little bit below this area right here.Now, on both sides of the vehicle we have existing holes. I circled these with a marker so you can see which ones we're talking about. We need to enlarge these holes to the size indicated in the instructions. Now, you can use a hole saw to do this, which is what the instructions say to do, but if you have your hole saw wobbling and you can't actually get it to bite through, what you can use is your rotary tool, and just make an appropriate sized square notch. These are just access holes so we can get our hardware in place later. Now, where we cut out we have exposed metal edges, and those could cause rust. If we take some spray paint and cover up that area, we can help prevent rust.All right, now we can take our base plate and we'll slide it over our frame rails and we'll loosely thread in one of our factory bolts on each side. Now we'll take one of our 3/8 bolts, a lock washer, and flat washer, and from this point forward every bolt that we're using to secure our base plate, we'll be placing red Loctite on. We have this available on our website. We'll insert it through this hole. We'll see where it comes through our base plate now, and we'll place a flange nut on the other end. Here's a tech tip: if you hold the nut in a wrench, it makes it easier to get it onto the bolt. Once we have it started, we'll continue to hold the nut still with a 9/16 wrench and use a 9/16 socket to help start the bolt fully.Okay, now we'll take another 3/8 bolt and go through our upper access hole that we made. Okay, you can see where our bolt comes through now, and we'll top it off with a flange nut. Now it's time for us to use our 1/2 inch bolt, our lock washer, and our flat washer. Put our Loctite on. We'll go through this hole here, and it'll go through the frame and the base plate. On the other side, we have a 1/2 inch handle nut in order to get the nut in place. I'll take a 3/4 inch socket on an extension, place our bolt on, go through the hole. We'll take our handle nut, go over the bolt, and we'll screw the bolt into the nut.Now that we have the base plate hardware in place, we can remove the factory bolt that we we're using to temporarily hold it up. Put Loctite on it, reinstall it, and we'll also put the other factory bolt back in with Loctite. Now we'll torque all of our hardware to the amount specified in the instructions. With all of our hardware in place, we can now take our handle for our handle nut, twist it back and forth a few times, and eventually it'll break off. Now we need to bolt our radiator support back into position with our base plate. Now, when we took those bolts out originally where the bumper beam was, the radiator support did drop down a little bit. We need to raise it back up to line the holes back up to reinstall the bolts.Now, if you're installing your base plate on the ground, you can just use a floor jack underneath the radiator support to raise it back up. I'm going to use a block of wood as I lower the car down to help push it up. Then I can install my hardware. As you can see, by raising the radiator and condenser assembly back up, it's now lined back in position where we can reinstall our hardware. We went ahead and put on our safety cables. We attached them to our tab on our base plate using our quick link. We just routed them around our subframe to body mount bolt right here. This is the most secure part of the vehicle, so this is a great spot to mount them.Now we can reinstall our washer fluid reservoir the same way that it came out. Now we can reinstall our headlights, making sure we plug them back in. Now, if you're going to be using a towed vehicle lighting system or a supplemental braking system on your Edge, this is a great time to mount your breakaway switch and route any wires that you need behind your fascia since you already have it off. We already went ahead and did that. We used our provided breakaway switch bracket here that comes with the base plate, drilled a hole in our core support here, used the provided hardware to secure it, mounted our breakaway switch to that bracket. Any of our wires that we have, we covered up with electrical tape. That way, we don't have any color wires sticking out behind our grill opening. This will help conceal it and give us a nice, clean look.Okay, we marked out on our fascia a few spots that we're going to need to trim out in order for our base plate arms to go through the grill. I'll just use a pair of side cutters. Now we can reinstall our fascia. We'll have an extra set of hands to raise it back into position. We'll want to make sure we reconnect any electrical connectors that we had. Now we'll push it the rest of the way on, snap our fascia back into our fender area. With our fascia back in position, we can now reinstall all of our hardware that secured it. That completes our look at and showing you how to install the Blue Ox Base Plate Kit with Removable Arms, part number BX2628 on this 2011 Ford Edge.


Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
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Andrew K
Employee Andrew L
Video by:
Andrew L
Employee Joshua S
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Joshua S
Employee Sue W
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Sue W
Employee Chris R
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Chris R
Employee Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H

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