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Blue Ox Base Plate Kit Installation - 2014 Ford Fiesta

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How to Install the Blue Ox Base Plate Kit on a 2014 Ford Fiesta


Today, on our 2014 Ford Fiesta, well be installing the Blue Ox Base Plate with Removable Arms, part BX2622. To begin our install, well first go ahead and open the hood and start to remove the front fascia. To remove the front fascia, well need to remove the four pushpin fasteners along the front. They have a Philips head so well go ahead and screw the center of the pushpin fastener out and then remove it completely. You may need to hold the outer edge as you screw the center out. Once we remove the center portion, Ill just use a flat blade screwdriver to get underneath the outer portion of the pushpin fastener and then remove it.

Im going to set all of our fasteners aside to be reinstalled later. Were going to move inside the wheel well.Along the outer edge, well need to remove three fasteners, two Torx bit fasteners and one bolt. To make it easier to access the hardware, were going to go ahead and turn the wheel. Starting here at the bottom of the inner wheel well liner, well go ahead and remove the Torx bit fastener. Going from the metal portion of the fender to the plastic portion of the front fascia, theres a bolt that goes down through to secure the two together.

Well go ahead and remove that bolt. Now with our passengers side done, well move over to the drivers side and repeat the same process. With the wheel well fasteners out, well move underneath the vehicle to the bottom of the fascia where a total of five screw fasteners thatll need to be removed.Once we have all five of those fasteners out, well then going to go ahead and remove the headlight assemblies. To remove the headlight assemblies, well need to remove the two Torx bit fasteners that secure it. Once we removed the fasteners, well then go ahead and gently remove the headlight.

Once we pop it free from its position, well need to remove the electrical wiring that goes to it. To do that, well press on the locking tab, pulling back on the connector to release it. Now we can go ahead and pull the headlight assembly and set it aside for reinstallation later. Now with the drivers side done, well move over to the passengers side and repeat the same process.Now with our headlight assemblies out, itll expose two more bolts thatll go down through the metal fender. Well need to remove these two bolts.

Note, it can be easier to pull the fasteners out with a magnet. Our second fastener is a little further down the fender. With the passengers side done, Ill move over to the drivers side and repeat the same process. With our fasteners removed, well go ahead and remove the front fascia. We can go ahead and wiggle each corner free first and then well pull it back just far enough to remove the wiring through the front fog lights. To remove the fog lights, well simply press on the connector lock and then remove it from the socket, with one on each side. Once you removed the wiring from each side, we can go ahead and pull it off the vehicle and set it aside for reinstallation later.With our front fascia removed, weve exposed the manufacturers wiring and windshield washer bottle here on the drivers side. Were going to be taking out a section of the metal flange that goes up around the bumper and frame so well need to relocate the wiring and the washer bottle for now. To remove the wiring, were going to disconnect the connector from the washer bottle pump by pressing on the locking tab pulling up. Then well remove the two fasteners where it secures here to the frame. Well lay the wiring up and out of the way for now. Next, to remove the windshield washer bottle, there are two bolts that secure it and two hoses thatll need to be removed. I'm going to disconnect the hoses here at the union and then we can remove the fasteners.Now, well go ahead and pull the washer bottle out and set it aside for reinstallation later. Note, it does also clip into the frame here so be careful when removing it not to break it off. Now we have everything out of the way on the drivers side, well move over to the passengers side and well basically be repeating the same process. We relocate the wiring first by removing the fasteners that secure it. I'm also going to remove the electrical connector that goes to the horn and that will allow the wiring to be pulled back and out of the way. To hold it out of the way, were just going to use a zip tie. Its not a requirement to remove the horn but to give us a little more working room so Ill go ahead and remove the fastener that secures it here to the frame.With everything out of the way, using our paint marker, well go ahead and mark up the section thatll need to be trimmed in the frame. Note, when trimming out the bumper flange here, trim all the way back to the reinforced flange here of the frame. From the top of the bumper flange down, itll 2-1/4 inches to the top of our cut. Then from the top of our cut down will be 4-1/8 inches. Then therell be approximately 1-3/4 inches deep. Ill move over to the drivers side and repeat the same process. To trim out this section, were going to go ahead and use Sawzall and a circular cut off wheel or grinder. Once we have the metal cut, well just go ahead and break it off. Next, Ill move over to the passengers side and repeat the same process.Now we have the bumper flanges trimmed out, well need to gain access inside the frame for installing our hardware. Using the manufacturers predrilled hole here in the top of the frame as our pilot hole, were going to drill out a 1-1/4 inch hole using a hole saw bit to create an access for getting our hardware fasteners into the frame. Once we have the passengers side drilled out, well move over to the drivers side and repeat the same process. Now with both holes drilled out, were going to move to the front of the vehicle. At the air dam, well need to trim out part of the plastic shroud. Starting here on the passengers side, we need to remove the two pushpin fasteners that secure the air shroud just below the bumper and above the lower fascia.Well go ahead and unscrew the center of the fastener and then remove it completely. Then we can remove the air shroud. This part of the air shroud that bolts to the core support will need to be trimmed back closer to the core support to allow for the base plate to sit in position. First, well go ahead and mark it and then using a rotary tool, well cut out this section. Now with the air dam trimmed out, were ready to install the base plate. Its a good idea to get an extra set of hands to help you hold the base plate while you clamp it in position. Now pull it in place and go ahead put a second clamp in position. Once we have the base plate clamped in position, well drill out our two forward attaching points, one for the driver and one for the passengers side. Using my final size, the 13 30 seconds drill bit, I can find the center point of this hole.Keep in mind, the attachment points here for the passengers side are going to be identical on the drivers side, so each process we do over here on the passengers side, were going to repeat identically on the drivers side. Once we have the center point, we can then use a smaller pilot bit to get our hole started. With our attachment point drilled out, well install the new hardware which will be the new 3/8 bolt and split lock washer thatll go through the base plate, into the frame where well secure it on the inside of the frame for the handle nut. The handle nut will go down through our access hole that we drilled out earlier. Each one of our new 3/8 bolt fasteners that were going to use to secure the base plate, well get red Loctite applied to the threads.As we put the handle nut in position, well bend the handle as necessary so that we can line it up with our attachment point. Once we get our fastener installed finger tight, well go ahead and run it down to help secure the base plate in position. Now with the first fastener installed and secured, I'm going to go ahead and remove my secondary clamp, move it over to the drivers side and drill out our forward attachment point. For the passengers side, were going to drill out our next attachment point. Now with the top fastener here drilled out, Ill go ahead and remove my clamp so I can drill out the bottom one.Now that we have the six attachment points for our base plate drilled out, were ready to install the hardware thatll go through the support bracket, through the base plate then into the frame. Well secure it with a longer 3/8 bolt, split lock washer going through the support bracket then to the base plate and into the frame and use our handle nut to tighten down the fastener. Note, there are two support brackets, one for the driver and one for the passengers side. It does make a difference on which side you use. Here on the passengers side, youll notice the larger notch or V cut out of the side bracket will face up. The welded spacers will go to the frame. Lets go ahead and put our hardware in place finger tight at this time. Align the handle nut up, bring in our support bracket and bolt.Now that weve got our fasteners installed finger tight, well go and run them down to secure them. Well make sure that the support plate is level and running even with the frame. Now with our support bracket in place, well need to drill out the three remaining attachment points. With the three remaining fasteners in on this side, well go ahead and tighten it down and torque to specification. Well go ahead and remove the ends of the handle nut. You can use a pair of side cutters or tin snips or cutoff wheel. With our base plate tightened and torqued to specifications, were ready to install the safety cables. The safety cables and a quick link are provided to secure the safety cables to the vehicle as a precautionary measure should the base plate ever come free.To install the safety cable, were going to take one end and go around the frame and core support and the other go around the front of the bumper and the base plate. Then built into the base plate here on the corner just below the frame is an attachment point for our quick link and safety cables. With our passengers side in place, well move over to the drivers side and repeat the same process. This will complete the install of our base plate. Well now need to start reinstalling the front of the vehicle. Start here with the washer tank. Well take the front fascia and set it into position so that we can mark the area thatll need to be trimmed to allow for the base plate to come through the front fascia.Once we have the area marked out to be trimmed, well go ahead and take it back off and use our rotary cutout tool to remove these parts of the fascia. Now once we have it trimmed out, well go ahead and put the front fascia into position and reinstall the fasteners. Reinstall the front fog lights. Now well go ahead and reinstall the front fascia fasteners. Next, well go ahead and reinstall the wheel well fasteners. Now well go ahead and reinstall the headlight. Next, well go ahead and reinstall the four pushpin fasteners along the front.Now with our fascia reinstalled, lets go ahead and show you how to install the removable arms. The arms will fit in to the base plate tube. Well push hard enough releasing the spring-loaded pin and then we can rotate it. Itll snap and lock in to position locking our removable arm to the base plate. Then to remove it, well pull back on the spring-loaded pin, rotate it to unlock and then we can remove the arm. That does it for the install of the Blue Ox Base Plate Kit with Removable Arms, part number BX2622 on our 2014 Ford Fiesta. .


Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Patrick B
Video by:
Patrick B
Employee Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Employee Andrew L
Video Edited:
Andrew L

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