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Blue Ox Base Plate Kit Installation - 2016 Jeep Wrangler

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How to Install the Blue Ox Base Plate Kit on a 2016 Jeep Wrangler


Today on our 2016 Jeep Wrangler we're going to take a look at and also show you how to install the Blue Ox Base Plate Kit with Removable Arms. Part number is BX1126. This is what the base plate is going to look like installed. You can see it's a nice, clean . It almost looks like a front receiver hitch on the Jeep. We've got attachment points right here in the middle that's going to allow us whatever kind of wiring that we would want. Blue Ox does send, you can see here, they're going to send a bracket that we could put on there and attach either a 4-pole, 6-pole round, or we have several other brackets available on our website, so you could get that taken care of.

Overall, a nice, clean look. Safety chain connection points are going to be out here so we can use quick connects, connect our safety chains there and we don't have to worry about wrapping it around the base plate or anything of that nature. When not in use, we've got the black caps that are going to go in here. That's going to keep our actual area where our removable arms are going to slide into, going to keep that free of any dirt or debris, so our arms are always going to work for us really well. When it's time for use, we just want to slide our arm in, push, then rotate. You'll see that little tab is going to click right into a notch.

That will keep it nice and secure for us. At that point, we're ready to attach our tow bar here to the front. We can get heading down the road. After we disconnect from our towed vehicle, if we'd like to, we can just pull on that pin, and rotate those arms right out and cap that back up. It makes it much less noticeable for everyday use, but something else that I like is that now the base plate is going to be in behind our bumper, so we don't have to worry about bumping into it as we're walking around the Jeep. If we leave these out, which is fine, you can, you just want to use caution that you don't knock into them with your shin or your knee. Here you'll see our base plate with everything hooked up to it, ready to head down the road.

It's going to be very practical for this application. We've got our safety chain connection points here on the outside. Our removable arms are going to make for great connections here. That way we can get it on and off easily. See our wiring connector right here.

The two tabs come out. We we're able to attach our 6-pole round right to that. Overall, it's just a really easy-to-get-to, easy-to-use system. The first thing we're going to need to do for installation is to take off this lower panel that we've got here. There are four push pin fasteners right here underneath this lip. Basically, you just want to pull the center of it out. Once that's out, you can pull the bigger portion of it out. Flat blade screwdriver, trim panel tool, anything will really work to do it. Once we've got those out, you'll see it will get a little bit loose. Then you'll see these two insets here or these two little tabs that run up behind. On each of those, there's going to be another one that we want to take out. See, those tabs just stick up there and they'll go right into the backside of this cross member here. Now we'll set this aside. On the back side of each fog light here, we've got a small connector. We want to get these separated. You can see there's a . Just push in this tab right here. That lifts that up, then you can pull it to separate it. Do that for both of the them. Just a little bit closer to the outside of the vehicle from where our fog lights were, we've got our driver side frame rail here. We're on the outside of that. You can see we've got two nuts here. One here and one here. These are helping to hold on our bumper. We want to get these removed on the driver side here and in the same location on the passenger side. We want to get them taken out. We'll grab our 18-millimeter socket. We want to get in there and remove those. Now we need to move directly inside of the frame rail, right up in that same location, but on the inside. We've got four more there that we need to take out. A little less room there, so you're probably going to have to use a regular hand ratchet. Before removing our nuts completely up here, what I've done is I've taken the top one off and I just loosely threaded it on the top bolt here on the outside. That's going to prevent the bumper from actually falling down before we're ready for it. Behind those nuts, there's going to be a little spacer plate. We want to put this back in place later. You can see that angled side. That's at the top. With the help of an extra set of hands, we'll reach around behind. We're going to take off that nut that we left on just for some support, and we'll pull our bumper out slightly. We need to disconnect the wire loom that runs across the back. Let's pull it out and we'll tilt it down. You'll see right underneath the fog lights, we've got these little push fasteners that we need to pull out. A screwdriver or trim panel removal tool is what will use. Now we'll get our bumper set aside somewhere safe. We want to take our base plate. We're going to slide it up in position behind our bumper brackets there. You can see the hole that's here in the middle of the side bracket for the base plate. We've got one in the same spot, passenger side and driver side. The middle hole is where we want to line it up. I'm going to raise my base plate up into position. I'm going to take one of my larger bolts, and once those holes line up, I'm going to pass it through and just allow that to hold the base plate while we get it leveled up. Then we'll slide it up into position. We want to get those holes aligned. Now we just want to verify the level of our base plate. We're going to verify it side-to-side and also front-to-back, so we can keep our arms nice and level as they stick out of the front here. It looks like we'll need to come up just slightly. Using some clamps can help out with holding the position we want while we get our nut tightened up. With this clamp in position, we can take our bolt out. We're going to grab some red Loctite. We're going to be putting red Loctite on all of the fasteners used to hold our base plate into position. We also want to put one of the larger lock washers on there. Then we can take what they call a whiz nut, which is just a nut with a little piece of wire welded to it. We're going to move that up into our frame rail, line it up with the hole there, and then just thread in our bolt. Let's get that done on both sides. We'll go ahead and snug down our hardware. Get this done on both sides. Then we'll torque it down to the specifications, which will be listed in our instructions. With those torqued down to specification, we're good to take our clamps off as you're going to hold it where we want it. We're going to grab our 17/32 drill bit and we're going to get those top two holes on each side drilled out. If you use the bit just to get a nice mark on the frame rail, it's pretty tough to put a bit that size through the steel, so we'll use this as a kind of a center punch. We're going to mark the center of the hole and then we'll step up a few sizes in drill bits, starting with the small one and working to the bigger one. In the area between the base plate and the frame we need to install our spacers. You can see there's two holes. Those are going to line up with the two holes we just drilled out. We may have to tap it in there, maybe use a screwdriver to work it around a bit. Once both of those will pass through, it's time to put a lock washer on each of our bolts. Now we can slide one of our whiz nuts in the lower hole there. We need to bring that back, so we'll start with our rear location here first. You want to get that so it lines up with our holes. Then we'll pass our bolt through. We want to get that threaded in. Get those two started and then you go to the passenger side and get the two started there. Now we can get each of these snugged down. Then we can get our torque specifications for these and torque those down appropriately as well. For the wires that we've got still sticking out from our bolts there, we're just going to trim them off. You can use cutters if you want. A rotary cutoff wheel here works pretty good too. Now we're going to get our bumper put back in position, just by reversing what we did there the first time. We'll get our wire loom plugged back in here in those four locations. Then we just want to guide our bumper back through the brackets there. Remember, on the inside and the outside, we had our plate. We want the wider portion of that plate to be facing up. Then we'll thread our nut on. That will hold our bumper in position while we get the rest of our hardware into place. I'm going to nut on each side to give it support. We're going to go through and get all of our fasteners snugged up. Now we can get our permanent base plate safety cables installed. I just want to go up around our frame rail here. They come up here and connect to the nice open area that they've provided for us. They're going to give you quick disconnects, so we just slide those over, then tighten down that large nut that will come down thread onto the other side of our quick link there. A 15-millimeter is the wrench you need. I'm just going to put a little torque on it. It doesn't have to be super-tight or anything. We'll hold the underside of the front bumper up here, this little appearance panel. Once we have it lined up, we need to mark on each side of our side bracket or our side plate. From this top edge right here, it needs to come down about four inches. It will be about right there. What we want to do is just take a little notch here. It doesn't have to be too wide, we just need our side plate to slide in there. Once we've got our area marked out to trim, what we're going to use is just a cutoff wheel. You could also use a razor knife if you wanted to. Then we're probably going to go right down these edges and trim that last part with our knife. We'll slide our cover up and in, right back up into it's original location. We're going to secure it with the push pin fasteners we removed earlier. The ones in the middle will be a little hard to get to. I recommend doing those as your last. All right. That's really all there is to it. The base plate's in, and we're ready to add our arms and hook up to our motor home. We're ready to make our connection with our Jeep. You can see we've got our removable arms in place. Just follow the instructions for our tow bar. We can get our connections made here. We're also going to hook up our breakaway switch. This is from our braking system. This needs to go directly to the chassis, which means, basically, it can't go to our safety chains. They can go to the safety chain connection point, however, on our hitch. Safety cables are going to come back. They connect right on to those convenient hook-ups on the end of the base plate. We'll get our wiring plugged in here. Lastly, for our braking system, we need to hook up our female fitting on the vehicle side, and then we'll plug in our male fitting here on the RV side. With our lower fascia back in place, that completes our installation of the Blue Ox Base Plate Kit with Removable Arms, part number BX1126 on our 2016 Jeep Wrangler.


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Employee Joe V
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