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Brake Buddy Stealth Supplemental Braking System Installation - 2014 Honda CR-V

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How to Install a Brake Buddy Stealth Supplemental Braking System on a 2014 Honda CR-V


Hi there CRV owners. Today in your 2014 Honda CRV, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Brake Buddy Stealth supplemental braking system. Your braking system is one of five main components you'll need when flat towing your vehicle behind your motorhome. In addition to your braking system, you'll need your tow bar, which is the connection point between your motorhome and your vehicle, your safety cables, which is a supplemental connection between the vehicle and your motorhome, your base plate, which provides a connection point for your tow bar on your vehicle, and your diode wiring, which takes all the lighting signals from your motorhome and transfers them to the lights at the back of your vehicle. And this is what our braking system looks like when it's installed. Now, they don't call it a stealth for no reason, it does hide very nicely and provides almost no impact on the looks of the vehicle when it's installed.As far as the cleanliness out of all the braking systems out there, this one's going to give you the cleanest looking install.

And now I had the seat move forward so you could see the stealth operating unit. I've now moved it back to the normal driving position and it's hidden completely under our seat. You can't even tell that it's there. You'll also notice how clean it looks here at our brake pedal. Many braking systems have a cylinder that attaches to your brake pedal, which doesn't look very nice and also can be a little bit cumbersome.

Your foot can potentially come in contact with that cylinder and can make it a little awkward to drive. This system keeps everything back behind the pedals. You don't have to worry about your foot hitting in the components, and you really can hardly tell that it's even here since the pulley is hidden down below our carpet and the bracket so small, where it attaches to the pedal.The only other system that comes close to this cleanliness is Roadmaster InvisiBrake. However, I find that this system is a little bit cleaner and easier to attach to the InvisiBrake. And unlike other braking systems which has the entirety of the units installed on the vehicle side, this one has a brake controller that installs on your motorhome side.

What I like about the motorhome having a brake controller on it is that you can easily activate your braking system to ensure that it's working properly before each trip with a simple press of a button. Another thing that I like about this setup is that if you use your motorhome for dual purpose, let's say you don't always take your vehicle to the location you're going to be vacationing or visiting, sometimes you maybe want to bring a boat trailer or something else to that location. With a quick hit of a button, you switch from flat tow mode to trailer mode, and you're now ready to pull that trailer.And the last feature that I really like about this system over other systems is the flat 7-way connector. Most systems for flat tow you have a 6-way connector here at the front, which is round. So it takes up more real estate and isn't as pleasing to look at is this here.

Let's disconnect it here and you can see that that's pretty well hidden beneath our license plate. You almost don't even notice it. And other braking systems have a breakaway switch which is mounted here somewhere towards the front, but you also have to attach a cable between the two. Our breakaway switch is made inside of our 7-flat connector here. So once this connector gets disconnected in the event of a catastrophic disconnect, your vehicle would then apply the brakes using the brake buddy stealth system to help it come to a nice, safe stop.We'll begin our installation by mounting the main components. Our main control unit, we're going to place here underneath of our seat and it attaches to the floor using self-tapping screws. Now we don't want to attach it to the floor just yet, because we are going to need to access the bottom of this unit when we install the cable on to the brake pedal. So we just want to find the location where you're going to be placing it and leave it in that position because you're going to have to route some wires from this to another location and you have to cut and trim those. So, by having it here, we can ensure we have the proper length. Then we'll mount our vacuum pump under our under hood compartment.This mount is just using zip ties. So we went ahead and just strapped it to the module located here on our driver's side, right in front of our brake fluid reservoir to end a zip tie around the top portion and then another zip tie here around the bottom portion. Now we'll come back inside and we're going to mount our pulley to the floor and our cable clamp to our brake pedal. The easiest way to do this is to mount your pedal clamp first. You don't need to get it real tight. Just mock-up about where you want it. You want to try to be as low as down on the pedal as possible as this will give you the best leverage for pulling the pedal.Once you've got that mounted, you're going to want to look straight down the pedal. Your cable pokes through the small islet here on your pedal clamp. Now we're not going to run the cable yet, but you want to look down that islet hole and you want to mount the pulley directly in line with that islet hole back here on the firewall. You also want to try to keep it as level as possible. The pulley will mount using the self-tapping screws that come provided in your kit. You will have to trim out some of the carpet located here so you have clear access to the firewall. We can now route our cable from the unit that we placed under the seat up to our pulley here. Once you route it up, you'll need to mark the sheathing and trim it to the appropriate length. Before you trim your sheathing, you can flip the unit over under the seat and you want to pull the cable back through, so you make sure you don't cut the cable, you're only cutting the sheathing.Once you've cut the sheathing, you can then slide on the attachments here. So it's going to be the metal attachment followed by a nut and a lock washer, slide it into the pulley and place another lock washer nut on the other side to tighten it down. This is an adjustment, so I like to make sure they're tightened down in the center so we have a little adjustment both ways. You can then take the cable you pulled out, slide it back down the sheathing till it comes out here, feed it behind your pulley and run it to the islet hole that we have on our pedal clamp. You can then take the small hold downs, which is this little cylinder you see here with a nut in it, slide that over your cable and tighten it down.You can then trim off the excess cable. I recommend that you leave about an inch so that way you've got it for adjustments in case you need it down the line and then take the heat shrink that comes in your kit and put some on there so that way we don't have any sharp edges. And now we can begin wiring everything up. Everything's going to come off of your 7-flat one connector here. This connector has your breakaway switch inside of it. So everything's just going to come out of here. We can see our wiring coming out the back. So this is going to need to be mounted. There's a metal bracket and we just mounted it underneath our license plate into the plastic bumper using self tapping screws. Once you've got the bracket mounted, just slide your connector into the bracket and then you can attach the dust cap to the side.You see how it's just poked in right there. While your connector is in use, your dust cap has a storage slot right here on the side ,and that's what these ears here on the back are for. And it just slides in the grooves. We're just going to go ahead and leave it in that position because we're going to be hooking it up here later. Now we can start connecting all the wires coming out of the back of our connector here. Here, you'll see the green, yellow, brown, and white wire. This wire is going to tap into your existing diode wiring that you already have installed. If you don't have diode wiring installed on your vehicle, you can pick that up here at etrailer.com.What's nice about this inaudible 00:07:17 is that it does have a 4-flat on the end of the green, yellow, brown, and white wires that you can just plug into your diode wiring if you have a compatible connector. We didn't have a compatible connector, so we had to hard splice ours into it. And all we did is we cut the existing diode wiring and we just spliced our wires right into those. Your kit does come with butt connectors. However, we upgraded ours to the heat shrink butt connectors you see there to keep out any moisture which will ensure a long lasting connection. If you need butt connectors, you can pick those up here at etrailer.com. The rest of our wiring coming out of our connector, we routed up towards our engine compartment because all of our connections are going to be made either there or inside the vehicle. The rest of our wiring here on the other side of our plug, we routed up towards our engine compartment.Our wiring came up here. Now, on the rest of that wiring that we we're talking about we routed up, there is a small control box on that and this is for the battery charger. This little control box here is going to trickle charge the battery when you're going down the road to keep it up and running. This is integrated inside of your Brake Buddy Stealth wiring harness. so we just mounted that here with a zip tie. The rest of the wiring then came over to about here where our battery is, where we needed to make some additional connections. We'll start by making the connections that come out of the small battery charger box. You'll have two wires that you'll need to hook up coming out of this box. One of them is a red wire like you see here. This red wire is going to go to the fuse harness that comes in your kit and the other end of your fuse harness is just going to hook to the battery positive.Again, you can see we've used heat shrink butt connectors instead of the ones that come in our kit. Then we're going to hook up the wires to our pump. Our pump has a separate harness that comes in our kit and there are only two wires that come off of that. We're to plug in our harness into the bottom of our pump. There's only two wires coming off of this, just the white and the red. We're going to wrap the rest of those over towards our battery positive post. We're going to take the white wire and attach it to ground right here using one of the self-tapping screws that come in our kit, as well as one of the ring terminals. The other wire, the red wire is going to connect to the red wire coming from your harness down below.This red wire is going to be shorter in length than the other red wires and it has a blue butt connector on it. We cut the blue butt connector off and replaced it with a heat shrink butt connector and then we made that attachment. The rest of your wires are going to be routed inside. That's going to be a red wire, a blue wire and a brown wire. You can identify these separately, particularly your red wire because all three of these have either spade or bullet terminals on the end because they just plug into our box. I routed those down the factory wiring underneath the brake fluid reservoir and then to the grommet located here kind of towards the center, but slightly towards the driver's side. And then we routed it to the grommet here, kind of towards the center and slightly towards the driver's side on the firewall. You can just use a pick or a screwdriver to poke a hole through the grommet and then push your wiring through.If necessary, you can use a pull wire like a coat hanger where you push it through and then tape your wiring to it, to help you pull it back through towards the inside. We're now on the inside. Our grommet is going to come out just above our accelerator pedal. It is going to be behind the module that's located here, but you can see it if you really get up in there underneath. It's hard to see it with the camera here, but we're going to take that wire, we're going to route it across. We'll then route that wiring down under the carpet and back towards our unit located under the driver's seat.Here we can make all the connections from our unit under the seat, the white wire coming off the unit under the seat, we routed here just underneath the trim piece on our driver's side and attached it with a self-tapping screw. The red, blue, and brown wires that we ran inside. We came under the carpet here, you can see we routed them over and then we plugged him into their matching wire color on the unit. So you can see here, blue to blue with bullet connectors, red to red with spade terminals, and brown to brown using bullet connectors again. We hid all of our wires and made it easier routing them onto the carpet by removing the step trim piece right here. And you just simply pull up to remove that, and when you go to put it back in, it just pushes back down.Now that we've completed all of our electrical connections, we only have to attach our vacuum lines from our vacuum pump into our vacuum brake boosters line. We did this right here. Coming off the engine, you'll see your brake booster vacuum line. We cut it in half here. We then inserted the T that comes in our kit into one end. We're using the smaller T. The other end, we use the small piece of the hose that comes with our kit, attach that to the T and then attach the check valve to that hose ensuring that the arrow on the check valve is pointing this way towards our engine. The other end of the check valve, just pokes back into our factory brake booster vacuum line.The small nipple coming off of our T, we used a small piece of vacuum line that comes in our kit and we poked the quarter inch airline into that and then secured it with a hose clamp. The other end of this airline runs over towards our vacuum pump, where you go into the small rubber adapter that comes in our kit with the airline, and then the other end of the adapter just pokes it right on to our vacuum pump. And that completes our installation on the vehicle side. All that's left here is to just use the included zip ties to clean up any of your wiring and make it look nice and neat. Now we'll head over to our motorhome for the brake controller.We're now in our motorhome and we've gone ahead and mounted up the brake controller. The brake controller has a bracket that comes included with it and you just use two of the Phillips head screws to mount that to your paneling and then on each side, you'll have two bolts that hold the brake controller to the bracket. You use a quarter inch socket to tighten down these bolts. Once you've got it mounted, you want to route your harness underneath your dash, where you can make all of your connections. Now you can attach your brake controllers, wires to the appropriate ones in your motorhome. Now all motorhome are going to be different. So the location of your wiring maybe in a different spot than ours here. Some motorhomes also have factory tow packages available and you can purchase a connector here at etrailer.com, that'll plug into your factory tow package, giving you all the wires you need to hook up your controller.Your brake controller has four wires we'll need to connect. You'll have your power, which is the black wire coming off your brake controller, your ground, which is the white wire coming off of your brake controller, your brake signal wire, which is the blue wire coming off of your brake controller, and lastly your brake input wire, which is the signal from your brake switch to the brake controller and this is going to be your red wire. For the red wire, we use the quick splice that comes in our kit and just quick splice it onto the cold side of our brake switch. For the powering ground, we just ran those directly from the battery and for our brake signal wire, we ran that from the blue wire here on our controller, back to the brake signal wire on our 7-way connector at the back, which traditionally is a blue wire as well.We now have our CRV hooked up to our motorhome. So all that's left is to make the connection between the two for our electrical circuit here. We're going to use the included wire that comes with it. We'll plug the 7-pole end into our motorhome and want to make sure we wrap the metal cable that's tied to it here around our hitches safety cable loop. And we want to make sure we take the breakaway cable here and wrap it around the loop on our hitch here, and then take the loop on our cable and push it back down over our wiring. This will ensure if we do have a disconnect that our wire doesn't drag down on the ground and it also ensures that it's going to pull the cable in the event of a disconnect so that way, this is going to disconnect from our vehicle because the electrical connector on the system acts as your breakaway switch. And we just need to plug the 7-flat into our vehicle side.And that just simply plugs in right there, clicks into place. And now we can test everything out. It's best to have an extra set of hands to test out the system. You'll want one person watching the brake pedal in your CRV and the other person in the front here operating the brake controller. On your brake controller, you want to make sure that it's in flat tow mode, not trailer mode. You see the indicator light here is towards our vehicle. There's a button on the side to change modes and we want to make sure we are in that mode there for a flat tow.Once you're in flat tow mode, you can press down on the manual slider here, and that will apply the brakes inside your CRV. So we'll have somebody back there monitoring, making sure that it activates and deactivates when the switch is pressed and released. Now that you've verified everything's working properly, you'll want to test drive your motorhome while pulling your CRV and adjust the sensitivity settings accordingly. These settings are going to vary depending on the size of your motorhome that's pulling it. A larger motorhome is going to be able to pull it and stop it easier than a smaller motorhome, so those adjustments are going to vary. And that completes our installation of the Brake Buddy Stealth supplemental braking system on your 2014 Honda CRV.


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