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Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2010 Subaru Outback Wagon

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How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2010 Subaru Outback Wagon

Today on our 2010 Subaru Outback Wagon, we'll be installing the Curt TriFlex Trailer Break Controller, part number C51140. In conjunction with the E-Trailer Break Controller Install Kit, part number ETBC7. To begin our install, we'll first need to take the 4 pole connector that is previously installed in the vehicle and run it outside. To do this, we'll open up the rear hatch, open up the spare tire cover, remove the center cargo tray and then the carpeted panel on the driver side and the inaudible 00:00:31 spare tire tool holder on the driver side. To remove this holder, we'll need to remove the 2 push pin fasteners. Once they're removed, we'll go ahead an set everything aside for installation later. We'll go ahead and take the 4 pole connector and route it out to the vehicle vent and start routing it over to the center of the vehicle and then down to the hitch. Now we'll go ahead and assemble our new 7 and 4 pole connector. First, install the bracket under the 7 pole connector using the hardware provided in our install kit. By installing the screws, flat washer, split lock washer and knob for all 4 inaudible 00:01:07 points. Next, using the tow ready long bracket, part number 18140, we can secure it to the 7 pole bracket. Now, we'll go ahead and install it onto the vehicle, securing the long bracket with the worm clamp provided to the hitch. Next we'll take the yellow wire coming from our 7 pole connector as we'll not be using this application and cut it off short. Now the white wire with the pre-attached ring turbo will be the ground for our 7 pole connector. However, for this application, the wire is not long enough, we're going to go cut off the ring terminal, strip it back and use a yellow black connector to extend the ground wire.

A piece of white wire we'll be using will be the white wire that comes inside of the great duplex cable provided with the break controller install kit. For making the 4 pole connector, we'll go ahead and use some Edelmann Dielectric Grease, part number 11755. This will assist with preventing corrosion. As we top the wire between the hitch and the under body, we're going to secure the manufacturer's exhaust hanger. To make this easier, we're going to go ahead and and remove the rubberized slader first. To do that, we'll use some spray lubricant in our pry bar to remove it from the manufactured metal hooks. Now with rubberized slader out of the way, we'll go ahead and secure the wiring with the zip tie to the metal hanger. With that done, we can then go ahead and re-install the rubberized slader. Now that we have our white wire run to the frame, we'll then use the self-tapping screw provided with our install kit to secure to the frame. Now we'll go ahead and continue running the great duplex cable underneath the vehicle being careful inaudible 00:03:11 moving components to sustain your suspension or excessive heat such as the exhaust. As we route the great duplex cable, we'll also secure it with the zip ties as needed. For this application, we'll also be using several red line metal loom clamps, part number A0500 and self-tapping screws. Once we get our wire run to the bottom of the engine bay, we'll go ahead and send it up near the firewall where we can secure it.

Now we're at the top of the engine bay, we'll go ahead and route over the break booster to the driver side near the battery. Here in the engine bay, we can go ahead and secure the wire as necessary. Then we'll go ahead and cut off the excess from the great duplex cable and set it aside. Now, we'll go ahead and take a mark from our great duplex cable as it comes off the fire wall and using our utility knife, strip back the great duplex cable. As the white wire inside well be run into the cabin of the vehicle. To route it inside the vehicle, we're going to go through the manufacturer's inaudible 00:04:18. Now that we've got our wire pulled through, we'll go ahead and follow up with the great duplex cable that we just cut off and push it inside the vehicle also. To remove the lower kick panel, covering up the manufacturer's break pedal route. There are 3 fasteners that we'll have to remove and the white OBD2 connector. We can locate the vehicle's break switch. Now that we've located the wire which should be a brown wire with the yellow tracer, we can go ahead and start making our connection. We'll take the pigtail from our Curt Universal Break Controller Wiring Pigtail, part number C51515. Beginning connecting our wires, we'll start with the red wire from the break controller pigtail.

To connect the 2, we'll use the quick splice connector provided with our Break Controller Install Kit. The white wire inside will be connected to the blue wire coming from our break controller. Now we'll need to hook up color in brown, the black and white wires and the great duplex cable with the black and white wires coming from our break controller pigtail. Next, I'd go ahead and use some black electrical tape to wrap up this connection point. Now with that done, we're ready to go ahead and mount the break controller using the bracket and hardware provided. Now we'll take the universal pigtail and connect it to the wiring coming out of the back of the break controller. Next we'll move back to the engine bay. We'll take the gray duplex cable that we ran for power and brown for the break controller, route it over to the driver side fender well and then over to the battery. We'll cut of any excess. Next we'll go ahead and strip back the heating as necessary. Take the white wire, inaudible 00:06:03 back and add a ring terminal that we can attach to the vehicle's negative battery post. Next, we'll go ahead and cut off the excess from the black power wire and leave a short here near the the fuse panel where we'll be mounting our breaker. First breaker we'll mount we'll be our 20 amp breaker for the break controller.

Using the self-tapping screws provided with our install kit. With our breaker mounted, we can then go ahead and strip back the black power wire and add a small ring terminal. Put the ring terminal onto the silver side of the breaker and secure it with a start washer and knot. Next, we'll go ahead and take the black wire that came from the original duplex cable from our 7 pole connector and follow the great duplex cable for the power ground for the break controller over to the driver side fender well. Here, we'll then go ahead and mount the 40 amp breaker via with the break control install kit and secure it to the fender as we did our 20 amp breaker. Then we'll go ahead and strip back the power wire, add a ring terminal and secure it to the silver side of our breaker. Next, we'll need to make 2 power leads to go from the copper side of our breaker to the vehicle's positive battery post. Next, we can do ahead and show you how to test your new 4 pole connector. Simply open the cover of the 4 pole connector and use our test light on the open or bar terminal as our ground, then starting at the first terminal from the ground, we'll check our running lights. Second terminal will be the left turn signal and left break and the third and final terminal will be the right turn signal and right break. Now we know out 4 pole connector works, we're ready to hit the road. And that does it for our install of our Curt Break Controller, part number C51140. In conjunction with the E-Trailer Break Controller Install Kit, part number ETBC7 on our 2010 Subaru Outback Wagon. .

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