B and W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Hitch Install - 1996 Ford F-250 and F-350

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How to Install the B and W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Hitch on a 1996 Ford F-250 and F-350


Clayton: Hello, everyone. Clayton here at etrailer.com. Today, we'll be taking a look at, and I'll show you how to install the B&W gooseneck turnover ball kit in our 1996 F350. Our gooseneck is going to allow us to tow a lot bigger trailer, whether it's a camper, or a big car trailer, or anything like that. Having a gooseneck hitch in our truck is really going to open up our options for towing. We can always add a fifth wheel to this, as well.Our B&W gooseneck hitch is going to be awesome.

It's made out of a really heavy duty steel. It's going to be really strong. It's going to mount up to our bed, our truck's frame, so we don't have to worry about it moving around. With it being a turnover ball, it's really nice because we still have full bed access whenever we're not towing. All we have to do is pull our release pin under the driver's side wheel, and then we can turn our ball over and click that back into place.

That's going to secure our ball.Our ball is going to be machined out of a single piece of steel, so that's going to be really nice. It's going to be strong and hold up really nicely over time. We're also going to have square sides with rounded corners, so we don't have to worry about this turning inside of our hitch. Like I said, it's really easy. Just drop it back down into this whenever we're not towing.

Then you lock that pin back into place and that pin is made out of 5/8" steel.Our safety chain loops have springs in the bottom. That way when we're not using them, they're sprung back down to the bed and they're not going to move around and rattle. One really nice feature of our hitch is the steel rod inside of our ball. It's going to really help us pick up our ball whenever we're ready to flip it up, it's going to be nice and easy to grab. We don't have to worry about having trouble pulling that out of our gooseneck.Our ball size is going to be 2 5/16".

We have a 30,000 pound towing capacity and a 7,500 pound vertical load limit. Now keep in mind, you do want to check with your truck's owner's manual and make sure it's capable of pulling these numbers. Our steel rod to secure the ball is going to come right through these holes in our ball. There's a hole on each side, so we don't have to worry about getting it turned in there the correct way. We just drop it in, close our arm, and we're ready to hook up. Our locking arm is going to be located right here. Whenever we're ready to move our ball or hook up, we simply pull it out. It has this really nice nylon lining on it, so they don't have to worry about it rusting or scratching our hands when we're pulling it.Our gooseneck hitch is pretty cool. I really like the feature of it locking in there. Then we can turn it over when we're not using it. If I had a need for a gooseneck, I would definitely put this on my truck. In terms of installation, it's really not that bad. We only had to drill two holes in the frame rail. The hardest part is moving around our rear axle. Speaking of installation, I'll show you how to get it installed on your truck now.One really nice feature of this kit is that it also works with the B&W companion. To start our installation. We're going to want to cut a hole in our bed. Now, our customer already had a hole from a previous gooseneck. They just wanted to upgrade. To find a spot where we're going to be drilling, we want to measure from wheel well to wheel well and get a center spot. Then we'll mark that center and then measure 49 inches from our tailgate up. Make another mark in the center. Then we can drill a pilot hole and come back with a four inch hole saw and cut our full hole.Our next step is going to be to remove a heat shield and in our case, we don't have a heat shield, but your truck will have a heat shield located right here, just in front of your axle. We're going to remove four screws. Then we're going to replace the front screws back up there. Now we're going to move on to our next step. We're now going to lower down our exhaust, but we need to make sure to support it. We're going to take our cam buckle strap. If you don't have one, you can find one of those here at etrailer.com. We're going to put our strap loop into this opening here in our frame, and we'll run it over to the other side and put it in the same spot. We'll come back, tighten it down, and we can remove our exhaust.To lower down our exhaust, we need to remove our isolators on each side. We're going to take some spray lubricant and spray down our hangers. This is just going to help that isolator slide off, make our jobs a lot easier. Now we can come back with a pry bar. Pry against our hanger like this. With that isolator removed, we'll now move back to our isolator over here. We can take that one off, just like that. Our exhaust lowered down quite a bit. Now we have enough access to work under our bed.Now we can take a look at our cross members and determine which one is our front and our rear. We're going to determine this by looking at our notches. Now, the more shallow notch is going to be our front cross member, and the one with the bigger notch is going to be our rear cross member. We're going to slide this one in first and then pull it back to where it's three inches behind our hole that we cut in the bed. I just went ahead and put a R and an F on here for front and rear. That's just going to make a lot easier to figure out which one goes where if we have to take it back out and move anything around.Our cross member is going to fit in there like this, with the flat side facing up and our notches and holes facing the forward side of the truck. We're going to take our cross member like this and slide it through. If you need to make a clearance cut here, feel free to do so. You can use a cutoff wheel or maybe tin snips, just depending on how thick your pinch welds are. That's just going to make it a lot easier to slide our cross member in place. We're just going to slide it over to the other side. You might have to walk around to the other side and get it pulled through to here our notches line up.We now have our cross number in position. You want to get that front hole centered with the hole in our bed, and then we can slide it back onto the frame rails where those notches drop in on the inside. We can now take our cross member and slide it back like this. We'll do that on both sides. We have our cross members slid into place. Now, if it's tight on one side, you can take a pry bar and push it into place. Now I'm going to slide this as far back as it'll go. That'll just give us some more room to work, once we get our other cross member in there.We're now ready to slide in our front cross member. We want the flat side facing up and our notches and holes facing the rear of the truck. We're going to follow the same steps, slide it in through the opening, just like so. We'll come over to the other side and pull it through completely. We have our notches in place and our cross member turned up. Now, we want this level and we want this L shape to follow this cross-member in our bed, just like this. We can grab our center section and lift that up. We wanted this cross member flush up against that cross beam in our bed, just so that it sits flush like this. Then we can slide it over and try to get this hole centered with the bed, but really, we'll have some adjustability once we get our actual turnover ball middle portion into the center.Now with an extra set of hands, we can lift our center section into place. We want to make sure we have the latching side on the driver's side. We just want to fit that center section into our hole in our bed. Get it into position. Then we can just slide a bolt here on each side. That way it can support itself. The center section, slide it up to our hitch. Now with our center section in place, we can slide bolts through each side. Then now, it will support itself.On that hardware, we want to have a lock washer and a flat washer. If you didn't do that when you put it in place, that's okay as long as it can support itself. We can always come back and add the necessary hardware to our bolts. Now we'll get the rest of that hardware loosely installed. With all of our hardware loosely installed. We'll be able to move all this around. We do want to go up above our truck and check in the bed, just to make sure that this is centered with our hole. If it's not, we can come back and make any adjustments needed.As you can see, it doesn't line up, so we're going to need to jump back underneath and just slide it back to a few inches. Now, we should feel this collar slot into our bed here, and then we can come back up and just double-check. Then if you do want to move it, you can always take a pry bar and pry against it, just to get it to slide around. You might have to try it a couple of different angles. Now, we can go underneath and hit it with a mallet and try to get it to slide back even more. With it centered, we can now jump back underneath and finish up our installation.Next, we are going to pop out our fuel and brake line clip right here. It's just a push pin that goes through our frame rail, so we can grab a turn panel tool and pull this out. You do want to be careful, since these are hard lines, that we don't bend or break these lines. It is going to be hard to get under here. If you just take your time and find a good angle, we should be able to pull out on that plastic clip and can get it to pop out. You might have to push it through on the other side, as well. I did have to switch to a pry bar just to give us a little bit more clearance. As you can see, we've got that loosened out of the way, so they can pull it down just like this.Now, I have a little bit more access to our hole here. We're now ready to grab our side plates. You do want to make sure the narrow portion is facing towards the back of the truck and our stickers are facing up. We can now grab our hardware and add it to the sides here. This is the hardware we're going to use for the top of the side plate. We're going to stick this through, add our flat washer, lock washer and hex nut on the backside.We just want to slide our hardware through the holes in our main bracket and get them lined up with the holes in our side plates. Once you get one bolt installed, it can support itself and we can grab our other bolt and slide it through the other side, just like so. We can now grab our hardware and add it to the inside. With our hardware started, we can now move over to the other side and repeat the same process.Now, there is a couple of variants with this kit. If your truck does not have overload springs, you're going to drill holes here and then add hardware through those holes. Now, our truck does have overload springs, so we're going to take a one inch bolt and our spacer and slide it through this hole. It's going to go through the hole in our frame rail, and we'll come on the backside and add a nut. We're going to add a flat washer and lock washer on this side, slide it through, add our spacer on the inside, and add our nut on the back side.Now, this part can be tricky because it is hard to get everything aligned properly. I suggest lifting up on your bracket bolt, sliding your bolt through. You might have to move it around a little bit, just to get that bolt to go through the frame rail like that. Now we can go on the backside and add our nut. Here's where that bolt came through our frame rail, and this is why we had to move our fuel lines. We're just going to lift up carefully on our fuel lines, pull the bolt out a little bit, then start the threads. You want to make sure not to get these cross threaded. That might be tough, because you're going to be fighting the fuel lines to get this started. Just take your time.We can come back and tighten everything down. We do have an option here. If your truck does have overload springs but you're worried about this nut and bolt damaging your fuel lines, you can drill out those holes on the other side, just like you would if you didn't have overload springs. Now again, this is optional. You can do this, all three, or just the outsides.We actually are going to want to come back and add another bolt here. We're going to grab a half inch drill bit and drill out a hole in our frame. We do want to try and get it as far back as possible, so we don't hit our shock mount. Now we can grab a smaller drill bit, drill this out, and get a pilot hole started. You want to make sure to do this on both sides. Before we get started with that pilot hole, I'm just going to grab our half inch bit and get it marked. This is just going to keep our pilot hole drill bit from walking around. We're going to start out with a smaller drill bit. Now I am going to do another size in between our first hole and our half-inch. This is just going to make it a lot easier when we come back, to drill out our bigger hole.With all of our hardware fully installed and everything tightened down, we are now ready to come back and torque it down. Now, our instructions tell us a certain sequence to torque everything down, but they actually don't show us the sequence. The sequence we're going to want to do is go from that corner to this corner, then down this side to this corner, then to this corner. We'll come back to here and then we'll get the center bolt. Then we'll repeat that on the outside of the frame rail. We'll do that far bolt there, this back corner here, come back down this side to this one outside, and then right across, back to the outside bolt. It can be tough to torque these down, just because there isn't a lot of room to work, but just take your time.With all of our hardware torqued down, we're now ready to drill the holes for our safety chain loops. We want to use the holes furthest away from our center hitch. We're going to be using these two on this side and the outer two on the other side. We're going to take our half inch drill bit and get it started. Then we'll come back with a smaller drill bit and drill a pilot hole. With our two holes drilled out here, we're going to repeat that same process on the other side.Now we can come in with a file and just knock down any of these hard edges. Get those edges knocked down. You just want to hit it with some clear coat. Now we can let that dry for a few minutes. With our clear coat dry, we can grab our safety chains. With our safety chain loops on, we can now go back underneath and add our hardware. We want to grab our spring, push it up like this with the big end facing towards our hitch, and we can grab our hex bolt provided and get that started. Add our spring to this side, get that hex bolt started, and repeat that same process on the other side. We're going to tighten these down until there's a quarter thread sticking out the bottom. Now, our instructions tell us to do a quarter thread, but I like to leave a full thread just for a little bit more spring pressure to keep those from bouncing around. We'll do just a little bit more, and just like that. I want to repeat the same process on the other side.We're now ready to install our latching pin. We just want to push the end through that hole there. You might have to move it around to try to get it out of our frame rail. We'll have to come to the other side and move it around a little bit, just like that. Now, we want to pull it up to our latch here. We'll have to reach around the back side and add our carriage bolt. We'll add our carriage bolt here. This is tough because they have this safety chain that's in first. We should have enough room to work, to slide our carriage bolt through. You're just going to have to figure out whichever side works for you.Push our locking pin over that carriage bolt. Grab our nut and add it there. I did find it easier just to remove those hex nuts and springs from our safety loops. It made it a lot easier to get in here and access our latch. I'm going to come back with a 13 millimeter socket and tighten down our flange nut on the locking pin. With that nice and tight, we can come back and re-install the springs and nuts on our safety chain loop.With everything installed underneath, we're now ready to reinstall our exhaust and our heat shield in the reverse order we took them apart. We're now ready to pull out our locking pin to drop our ball into place. We can drop our ball into place and then close that locking pin. That's going to complete our look and installation of the B&W gooseneck turnover ball kit on our 1996 F350.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O

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