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CUB Blind Spot Monitoring System Installation - 2021 GMC Sierra 1500

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How to Install the CUB Blind Spot Monitoring System on a 2021 GMC Sierra 1500

Your 2021 GMC Sierra. We're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install CUB's Trailer Blind Spot Monitoring System. This installs both on our trailer and also on our truck. We've got a module in there and wiring that runs throughout it, as well as an additional connector that you plug between your trailer and your vehicle. And it uses information from the truck to ensure that you're getting the best blind spot monitoring possible. And this is what our monitoring system looks like when it's installed.

We have our radar sensor here, our blind spot detection that will detect traffic that's next to us and also behind us. There's one of these on each side. And these are activated even when you're just driving around, as long as you're above 12 miles an hour, and it'll indicate on our indicator and show you what's going on. We've also tapped into the turn signal circuits and the reverse light circuit on our trailer here so that when you have your turn signals on, you'll get an audible beep in addition to that. And when you place it into reverse, when it sees that signal from the reverse, it'll put it in the cross-traffic mode and that way, when you're trying to back out of a spot here, if there's any cars that drive by, it can detect those oncoming vehicles so that you know not to back out just yet.

You can see here that it just bolts right to the side of your trailer, very close to the rear of your trailer and fairly low, so that way it's able to detect your smaller vehicles as well as your larger trucks around you. It has a reflective lens on it as well to help increase your visibility at night. So before we head out on the highway, we're gonna check the cross-traffic sensor. And this is designed for if you're sitting in a parking spot, maybe at your local grocery store or something, maybe you stopped in to get something real quick on a trip. You gotta put it in reverse to back out of the spot that you're in.

It can be difficult to tell if there's anybody that's gonna be coming across down the aisle because you might have some cars next to you and things like that, that kind of obstructs your view. So this will turn the sensors on and it will check if there's any vehicles that are gonna be coming up heading by so you can safely back out without having to worry that you're backing out and somebody's gonna potentially collide into you or you're gonna back into somebody. All right, so we're out on Highway A here, next to etrailer, and we need to come out on here 'cause we need to get some more speed. The system does not activate at speeds below 12 miles an hour. So we're gonna, we're getting up to here so we can see if anybody happens to come by us or if we pass by anybody, the system's gonna activate and work properly.

In the little bit of testing that we did with it so far, the 12 miles an hour seems to be a little bit lower than what I found where it picks up. It seemed to be closer to maybe 20 miles an hour is when it kicks on. What you will notice is that when we're driving by, the oncoming traffic that's on the other side, does not get detected by our system. So it's only gonna detect people that's actually going the same direction as us. It's not gonna be picking up those guys over there. So that's nice that you're not gonna get a bunch of false activations every time you pass by somebody. All right, so we've got a group of cars around us now. You can see there it's activating, showing that there was somebody next to us. Driver Oh, yeah, I see it. Expert Yeah, they're going a little bit faster than us. There we go, we're sped up a little bit so that we can get it to activate. Now it's just showing it in the indicator there. It's not beeping at us because we don't have a turn signal on. We've wired in our turn signal indicators to the system and when you turn on the turn signal, you get an audible warning, in addition to the light. And that's gonna work for both our left and our right. Yeah, we're gonna hop out in front of some traffic here. Slow it down a little bit and we'll see, as they pass us, if we can get any detection of them as they're coming by. And there we go. As they're approaching our trailer at the back, our indicator popped on and then our truck popped on on the factory ones that we've got on the mirrors on our truck here once it got closer to the vehicle. But we we're able to see it in our trailer monitor before the truck ones even indicated that they we're there. The blind spot detection system can work in detected vehicles from 30 feet beyond the trailer. So that's really nice because that way you're gonna get an indication if somebody's there, even if they haven't quite approached the side of your trailer yet. Just when they're kind of maybe right behind the trailer, but on the side, like they're coming up to approach you. So you get kind of a range that gives you kind of a forewarning that, hey, there's somebody that's very close to your proximity or they are in your proximity, don't change lanes right now. All right, so we've just got back from Highway A there. We're pulling back into the parking lot now. We're gonna just drive by some of these vehicles we've got here in the parking lot. And we're only doing the speed that it shows on our clusters only, nine miles per hour. And as we drive by these vehicles, you can see that our indicator is not lighting up. Even if we turn our blinker on, we're not gonna get any indication because we're below that threshold. So it gets its information by plugging into the OBD port on your vehicle and it's able to get vehicle speed data from it and it uses that to determine whether or not it's appropriate to light the sensor. And this is kind of nice. Some of the cheaper systems out there that are detecting things, sometimes they activate at these slow speeds when you're driving through a parking lot and there's a million cars around and the system is just sitting there flashing at you and beeping at you. You don't have to worry about that with this one when you're just in your Walmart parking lot. But you do have that backup feature that we showed you before for backing up that does work in those parking situations. To begin our installation, we're gonna start in our trailer here just by looking around 'cause when we go to install these things, we're gonna have to think about a few things. There's a lot of wires that we're gonna need to route to install this system and you gotta figure out how you're gonna get those wires all the way from the front of your trailer, all the way back here to the back, where we're gonna be installing the sensors. So on our trailer here, we got pretty lucky, we don't have any interior walls. This is just sheet metal here and this here is the outer wall. This is the same sheet metal that's the outer wall. So that makes our job pretty easy. We don't have to route our wires in between any panels, have to figure that out. But if you guys do at home, you wanna assess all that because you may or may not need to remove some paneling. And removing that paneling, sometimes you damage it and you may need to just consider purchasing extra to have that on hand so you can get everything routed and everything reinstalled properly. Some of the other things I would also look at is mounting and how you're gonna be mounting your sensors. So ours is we've gonna use just this thin sheet metal here. So we're gonna be using nuts and bolts to mount ours up. But if you've got the insulated paneling on many of your motor homes, you can use wood screws that would screw in the side to be able to attach it. So just kind of weigh those things. You don't get any hardware with this. You're gonna have to use your own hardware to mount these things. What you do get in your kit is your sensors and the wiring to install it. So anything else, as far as trying to get all the wires routed in your motor home, you're gonna have that responsibility yourself to try and figure out. So I just wanted give you that heads up. That's why my first step always is, hey, what's it gonna take to get this job done Let's look at this trailer and just get an idea. So now we've got an idea, especially here, this being an easy trailer, we can kind of go ahead and get right into it. So we're gonna go ahead and start here at the back by getting our sensors mounted up. Our sensor needs to mount in between 29 and 41 inches from the ground. So the first thing I did was level the trailer because if your trailer's not level, if you've got it pitched up real high in the front 'cause you just disconnected it, the back of your trailer's angled down and once you go to hook it back up, it's likely gonna lift back up. So if you get your trailer roughly to where it normally is when driving your vehicle or if you got it about level, it's a good place to go. We're gonna measure up from the ground so we can see where that range is. So 41 inches is here, 29 is all the way down there. So we want it to be kind of in the middle. So I think what we're gonna end up doing is that we're just use this rivet right here kind of as our mark. We'll put that at the top of our light and that'll give us plenty of room to be able to mount this up. Now, I like to measure from the bottom of the trailer after doing that, just because when I go to mount the sensor on the other side, if you measure from the ground, if things aren't perfectly level on the ground you're working on and stuff, you might get it a little bit off. So if we measure from the bottom here, we're right at about 25 and a half inches from where we made that rivet mark. So we're gonna measure from the bottom up 25 and a half inches, that is where we're gonna make our mark and that's from the bottom of the trailer. That's gonna allow us to be within the range that's between 29 and 41 inches from the ground. And then that again also makes it easy for us to be able to mirror these measurements over on the other side. So we know that rivet there is a good little kind of a mark for us. We're also gonna measure eight inches from the rear of the trailer. So you're here right on the rear. I'm lining it up with that rivet just 'cause we know it's roughly the height that we're looking at when we go to mount our sensor. There's our eight-inch mark. And we're just using a paint stick to make these marks. You could use painter's tape, whatever you've got available. This will easily wash off the side here, these easy wash markers. So now we've got our distance from the rear measured. We're gonna get our height measurement set. And we decided 25 and a half from the bottom of the trailer is gonna put us right in the range that we want to be in and make it easy for us to mimic that on the other side. So there we go. So we know we're gonna make the top of our light butt up to the bottom of that line and the rear side of our light butt up to the, the rear of our light is gonna butt up to the front side of that line there. All right, so we've got our light. It is labeled. They have a sticker on 'em showing whether it's the right or left side or right for passenger, left for driver. You can peel that off there, you don't need to leave that on there. Before we mount this up in this location that we marked, we wanna take a look on the inside. So we don't have any interior walls so we can clearly see that there's no obstructions here on the other side from where we're planning on putting this. But if you did have interior walls, you would probably wanna look to see, hey, do I got any outlets or is there any cabinetry, things like that here What's on the other side of this wall that I'm gonna have to deal with And if I do run some screws in, am I gonna collide with anything that could potentially damage anything So just check that out before you do any of your drilling. So we're clear, so we're gonna go ahead and get this drilled out. So here's our light. You can see we've got four holes. There's two at the top and two at the bottom. Those are the mounting holes that we're gonna use to mount it up. If we look at the back here, you've also got a large opening with our electrical connector that we're gonna need to pass through the wall to connect inside. In some cases, if you have interior walls, you might want to push this wire through the wall and then you can run it straight down. Again, it just depends on your trailer and how you're wanting to route the wires. On ours, ours is easy, so we're just gonna drill it and poke it straight through. I like to start by getting one of these holes mounted up first before I deal with this. So if we look here, that'll butt us up against our eight inches from the rear line and then we've got our light right there on the top. And we're just gonna use our light here as a quick template, make our little mark there on the side of the trailer. We've got our light where we want it now so we'll just pass this on through. And now this is the hardware we're using. Again, you gotta supply your own hardware, it doesn't come with hardware. The reason we're using nuts, bolts, and washers like this is because it being so thin, these washers help give us some extra surface area on the other side. And like a self-tapping screw or a threaded screw here will likely become loose over time. There's just not enough meat here for it to grab onto like your insulated walls often are. So I'm just checking to make sure that the hole's clean enough for our bolts to fit through. It looks like we're good there so we can go ahead and drill out a large hole for our wiring now. So if we look at our light here, we can see that the hole is offset a bit towards the front and it's kind of centered in between here. If you take your measuring tool here and you measure the holes, you'll find that this hole is two inches forward from our rear hole and three inches down from this hole. So we're just gonna make those marks so we can draw out that large hole. So we're coming over two inches and then down three inches and that's where we're gonna drill out the hole to pass through our wiring. So I'm gonna swap over to a step bit, you can see here. If you have a large drill bit, you could use a large drill bit. I got close to a one-inch bit. That would be fine or you could use a hole saw, whichever. But you can see here, the connector on our sensor is pretty wide. So you're gonna have to have a pretty large hole to be able to pass that through. So I like using the step bit for it. So we're just gonna take the mark that we made and then drill this out until our connector will easily pass through. All right, so we got our hole drilled out there, we just stepped it up until we're able to easily pass our connector through there. What I also like to do with the step bit is after I drilled it through this side, I took my step bit on the other side, since we're able to easily get to the other side of the panel, and I ran the step bit in that way too. That just helps clean up the rough edges on each side for you. So we're gonna go ahead and pass our wire through now. We're actually gonna put the gasket on before we do this. There's a gasket that comes in your kit. So that will attach to the back side here. So we're just gonna set that down for a second. We'll grab the gasket out of the box and you can see there it would line up with there. So we're go ahead and peel off the backing, slide our wire through the center, and then just line up all of our holes in our gasket. There we go. Now that we've got that lined up, we'll pass our wire through. The Cub logo should face towards the top and our sensor should be at a 45 coming off the back like that. Now we'll just secure it with our hardware and we'll drill out the remaining holes. So I'm gonna pass my bolt through. I always like doing one bolt, 'cause then we're gonna make this level and we can pivot it on this single bolt here to make it easy to get this level. But I'm gonna secure it with the hardware on the other side. I'm not gonna fully tighten it down. I'm just gonna tighten it by hand just so that way this light can't fall out of here. On the other side here, we're going with a washer, a lock washer and a nut. It kind of feels like, yeah, we've got some rough edges there on the inside. So we're gonna do the exact same thing with our step. So now we're gonna place our level on top of our light. We're gonna adjust it until it is level and then we can go ahead and drill out our hole. All right now, what I usually do is I just make the mark like that 'cause the light wants to kind of move around on you so this way we can kind of just tip it off to the side here a little bit and then drill that hole out. Then we'll feed our hardware through the fastener there, I mean, through the hole that we drilled. Sometimes it hangs up a little bit on that rubber gasket. So what I found is if you take a screwdriver or a hex, whatever you're trying to run these in and you can kind of just draw it in like that. All right, so now that I've got the remaining ones drilled out here, I just went ahead and passed the hardware through and loosely secured it on the other side. We're now gonna go ahead and tighten it down. It's not a bad idea, before you snug it, to just grab your level and just double check yourself real fast, make sure that you're thoroughly level and you can adjust it as necessary. See, it looks like we need to probably, well, that's pretty good right there. We're just a hair maybe we can tilt it up. And we can just kind of just scoot that a little bit and then snug up our bolts to make that final little fine tune adjustment. So now we've got it tweaked and level, we're just gonna run these down. The size of your fasteners is gonna vary depending on what you chose to use. All right, now we can grab the caps that come in our kit here. These will just poke in over your fasteners to cover those up. And now over on the other side of our trailer, we're gonna perform the exact same procedures to get this one mounted up. All right, so now that we got the lights mounted up, we need to go ahead and wire up the trailer. So grab your smallest harness to begin with. This is a real short harness. It's got a round end here with a collar on it for plugging in. This is the connector that you're gonna have that's gonna be at the front of your trailer now that you'll plug in when you hook up your trailer. And similar to like a seven-way, different style of connector, but you can see you'd plug it in into the back of the trailer. So we just routed this down. Made it a similar length as our seven-way. And we'll probably end up using some zip ties or cable ties or something to kind of keep it with the seven-way here to keep things neat. Then we just fed it through the ground nut that we've got right here to try to head back and follow our factory wiring back towards our lights. So it pops out on the bottom here. And then after it comes out the bottom, on the other end of this harness, there's a small connector. You'll have a 30-foot harness that comes in your kit. You're gonna plug that other 30-foot harness into that connector that's on here. We already routed it up into the grommet there. And that's gonna go on towards the back. We'll head inside so you can see the other end of that. And then you've got three wires right here that you'll need to splice into your existing seven-way wiring, which is right here. This is our existing seven-way wiring. You can kind of see it wraps around and it goes up to head back to the lights. So we can see our customers got some electrical tape wrapped around it here. So it looks like somebody's already been into the harness right here so that's where we're gonna go. Since somebody's already been in that same location, that's where we can go in. We're gonna come back to that though for hooking that up and we're just gonna continue getting the wires routed towards the back. So we go up here. Now, yours is gonna be different. In a lot of cases, you're gonna be routing your wires just underneath all the way back. But with the way this trailer's laid out, all the wiring goes inside and then goes up and that's kind of how it's set up. So that we're following the factory wiring to try to make sure we don't have to drill any excessive holes in this 'cause we don't want to seal it up up anymore than is necessary. So if you can find a place to go in, it saves you some work and it also just minimizes locations that could be potential leak points in the future. So we're gonna head inside now and we'll show you the other end of that harness. This is where our wiring comes up here. And this is the 30-foot harness that comes in your kit. We've just got it temporarily kind of set up here, following the factory wiring around. And it runs back to our lights. This is a shorter harness that comes in your kit and this has the exact same connections. So we weren't able to see the one before, but on the small harness that we routed up, it has this connector on it right here. We then took the 30-foot harness that has a connector just like this on it. This connector plugs, on the 30-foot harness, will plug into the short connector. You can see those two made up. So we plugged the 30-foot into the connector, just like that, and then we're just routing it around. We'll be securing it better here as we go, bringing it on towards the back. Now, one of the first issues we ran into here is our trailer is a bit long. Our harness, the 30-foot harness that came in the kit, wasn't long enough to actually make it all the way back to our sensor, where we had mounted it. So you can buy extensions. We've got 'em available here at etrailer. So we're gonna be using extensions today to complete our installation here 'cause you do have the option. If you wanted to, you could route your own wires and you'd splice into this. But that just has a higher potential for air to occur so I would just recommend getting the plug and play harnesses. The plug and play harnesses will also just be a lot faster and easier to install. So we're just keeping this routed here, that's the connector end. This is the one, the female one. This looks just like the one on the short harness that we had started with. So this is the, this is the shorter harness that comes in your kit. It has the exact same connector ends on it as the 30-foot harness that comes in your kit. But this harness' job is designed to go from one sensor, on the driver's side here, and pass over to the passenger side and plug in there. But this harness here is also too short. If we we're to plug it into our light here, our customer will be, the way this trailer's set up, we don't want holes in the floor, so it needs to be routed up. So if we we're to feed it through there, plug it in, route it up and around, probably follow the pillars here, that way we've got something that we could secure it to going across, you could see it would never be long enough. So what we're gonna do is we're gonna use a 30-foot extension that we've got available here and we're gonna use the 30-foot extension to go from the radar sensor there, up and around to that side. And we're gonna use the shorter one that's designed for that purpose that comes in the kit as our extension to get this wire long enough. Since they all have the exact same connector ends that are the exact same wiring harness, just different lengths, we can use it to extend. All right, so now we've got that routed there. This will simply plug in to our radar sensor here on the driver's side, we'll clean up those wiring. And then this connector, the female one again, we're gonna route this one up. And then we'll take the 30-foot extension harness, plug it into there and route it across to the other side. All right, now that we got our harnesses routed back to our lights, we had skipped a couple of wires that we're hanging out here up front. So we're gonna head under there and get those hooked up. I've got my test box right here and this can give me all the lighting signals that your truck would be able to give to your trailer. You may wanna pull your truck up and hook up the same way to your truck so you can turn the signals on. And then I've got a test light right here. We're gonna be using this to just verify which wires are putting out the appropriate signal. All right, we'll discuss the wire color and stuff under there but I highly recommend checking it because the difference between seven-way wire coloring can change from manufacturer to manufacturer so it's best to test it. So now we're underneath the trailer here. This is the seven-way connector. This spot right here, it's all taped up with electrical wire. It looks like somebody's already been here, so this is where we're gonna access our seven-way wiring so we can make our connections as well. So I'm just kind of slicing along the electrical tape there. We're trying to get this peeled back so we can access our wires under there. And they got wrapped up pretty thick so we'll just get this off of here and then we'll test these wires so we can make sure that we're hooking up the appropriate ones. And we're not pushing hard there. I'm just trying to just kind of graze it to get this electrical tape off of here. I don't want it cutting my wiring. There we go. Looks like we're able to probably peel it off of there from here. We'll put new wire or electrical tape on this once we're done. So now we've got these exposed, we need to determine the wires that we've got here so we can hook it up. We need to identify the right turn signal, the left turn signal, and the reverse circuit. And the wire colors you see here are yellow, orange, and brown. You're gonna see similar colors here, but they probably won't match color-for-color. So I've got the test box now turned on to the left turn signal. So if you got your truck hooked up, go ahead and turn on your turn signal and make sure the lights are flashing on your trailer and then let's test our wires. Seven-ways, often the red wire is your left turn but you can see here, it's not on this trailer. So on a four-way connector, yellow is often the most common color for your left turn signal wire. So let's see if they've got it hooked up that way. And they do, there we go. So we got our left turn signal is yellow. So we are actually gonna be going color-for-color for this one. So since the left turn was yellow, on a four-pole, green is often the right turn versus on a seven-way, brown is often the right turn. So we're gonna check the green one then since it was the yellow. And I'm gonna flip my box over to right turn and you guys at home, you can turn your truck onto the right turn signal. And there we go. So green and yellow are the two that we need, with green being the right and yellow being the left. And I'll also identify our reverse circuit. And not all trailers have a reverse circuit on them so you may not even have one on your trailer, it just depends. All right, so now we've got it on the reverse light circuit and we're gonna test these out. So typically in a seven-way, your reverse light would be a purple or a yellow color. We know it's not yellow, so let's try red. Okay, we've got nothing on the red. Blue should be the trailer brakes, black should be power. So let's try the brown wire. All right, so we have nothing on there either. We're gonna go ahead and test the blue and the black, but it's unlikely that it's gonna be these. So here's our blue, this should be the brake circuit. Oh and look at that. We have, okay, this must be his power circuit connected to his battery because I've turned the test box off and we are still hot there. I'm gonna also unplug the seven-way connector from the test box just to double check ourselves. Okay, we even unplugged so this has to be the customer's battery positive, unless his breakaway switch pin is pulled. That's always a possibility if he's got a damaged breakaway switch pin. It's unlikely 'cause the trailer drove in here. No indication from the customer that he's having a brake issue. All right, so we're gonna go ahead and check the black wire. The black wire is often the battery positive, but it looks like our blue wire is in this case. So let's see our black wire here. And we've got power. I'll turn off the test box and the signal cut, so this is our reverse light circuit. So our black wire is our reverse light. So now we've got 'em all identified. We know we need green, yellow and black. We're now gonna splice these in to those circuits so that way they get the appropriate signals that our system needs. So you do get some red quick splices that come in your kit. I would not use those here though. The quick splices, one, this is outside of the trailer. So quick splices are prone to moisture and corrosion damage so you definitely don't wanna use those anywhere where it's exposed to the elements like we are here. The other problem with the quick splices that it comes with is the quick splices are for very small wires like they have here in their kit. But most of your seven-way wiring and stuff is gonna be significantly larger than that and you're not gonna be able to quick splice on that. You'll probably end up damaging your seven-way wire trying to use the quick splices. And they probably won't even be able to squeeze on there because they're so much thicker than these are. So I would recommend not using those if you are wiring it up here on the outside. Now, if you've got some kind of junction box or something in an interior compartment and they're smaller wires, you might be able to do that, but I would not do that here. So I'm gonna go ahead and these circuits and we're gonna add these in. So to do that, well, let's take a look here. We'll go ahead and start with the black one since that one's just right out front here. So I'm just kinda just separating it out a little bit there and then we're gonna grab our snips here And we're gonna cut the black wire. Now that we've got it cut, we can strip it back. We're gonna strip back the other side as well. And then we're gonna use a heat-shrink butt connector. Now this is, this does not come in your kit. We do have these available here at etrailer. This is what I would recommend using if you're working outside the vehicle here. We just pulled off the end of the brown wire there. It comes kind of pre-stripped with the end on it. They do have more stripped than it feels appropriate 'cause you're gonna probably have some wire hanging outta your butt connector there and we don't want any exposed wire that could potentially short, so we're gonna trim this just a little bit. That's an appropriate length there. All right, now we'll bring our wiring over here. And we're gonna take the black wire, since we had tested it as the reverse light circuit. We're just twisting in the brown wire from our kit, which is labeled reverse. We'll then slide our butt connector on and we're gonna crimp this down. Now we simply take the other end of our wire, poke it into our butt connector here and then we can crimp it down. That looks good there. Just double check your wires don't pull apart. And now we're just gonna repeat that process for the remaining wires. We only got the two here, so let's take a look. We already know yellow was the left turn and yellow on here matched up so those match up color-for-color so we can save those for last, that'll be our easy one. And let's grab our green one here and we're just gonna cut this one just like we did the black one, strip it back, and we're gonna be adding the orange wiring with this one because that's for the right turn. All right, we finished up that last connection there, that was our yellow one for the left turn. This one happened to be color-for-color for us and then we did it the exact same way as the other two. We'll now grab our heat gun and shrink down our connectors to seal up the ends here so that way moisture doesn't get in there and ruin our hard work here. All right, so after shrinking down the butt connectors, I just went ahead and wrapped it up with some electrical tape again, putting it back how it was when we found it. And on this side now, all that we really got left here is we're just gonna go down through it with some zip ties and some wire clamps and clean up the wiring so it's not too loose. We're gonna do the same thing on the inside so we don't have any wires hanging down. And then we're gonna head over to the truck 'cause we got some installation components to install on that side. So we've gone ahead and pulled the truck inside the shop here. We need to start here at the back of the vehicle, with just mounting up our connector plug. This is a small harness that comes in your kit. It's only about six inches long, eh, maybe a foot, it might be about a foot long. It's got your round plug on one side and then it's got a larger, not really larger, but a more square, rectangular shape connector on the other side. To mount this up, this is a bracket right here. This comes included with your kit, this little bracket right here. Now you could just take some self-tapping screws and run it into something here on the bottom if you wanted to. But to not have to put any holes in the vehicle or modify it at all, we used a no-drill bracket. This does not come included with the kit. You can get this here at etrailer. It's often used for getting like a four-pole or seven-pole wiring attached to your hitch without having to modify anything, but we can use it to mount this bracket as well. Now the holes for the no-drill bracket are already pre-drilled but they're for four- or seven-pole connectors so they don't quite line up with the bracket that you get here in your kit. So I held the bracket up there and then I used the quarter-inch drill bit and I just drilled some holes. Actually, in the bracket that came with the kit, I drilled the holes in here, so that way they lined up with the holes on the no-drill. It just seemed to be a little bit, just fit a little better, 'cause you see the holes that I drilled are slightly to the inside of these slotted holes that come pre-drilled on this piece, if you're looking kind of straight up. So yeah, we just drilled those and then we used the hardware that it comes with to attach it, it's just quarter-inch hardware. So you strap your bolts down on the top and then put your flange here on the bottom and you can snug that down with a 10-millimeter. If you need to, you can sneak a wrench up in here to hold the nut. Our harness then just slides through here and then you'll use the nut that's already installed and then you just remove it and then put it on there and then tighten it down to get your connector mounted up. So now we're just gonna route this harness up. So this is the short one we we're talking about there, it just plugs right in here. And if we look, all of our wires are gonna be labeled, so you can't really get it wrong. You see how this has got a little tag on it, it's labeled number two On the next harness that we need to run, we look on it, it has a tag on it that says number two. So you just match the numbers up. Two plugs into two, connector ends are the same, they plug together. So it makes it really simple to figure out which connectors plug where if you just follow the tags. The harness that we plug our short cord into here is about maybe 25 to 30 feet. It's a pretty long cable that you get. It has the mating connector on the side with the number two to match it up and on the other side, it has a smaller, closer to square, it's still a rectangle but closer to square-shaped connector and it's much smaller, just a much smaller connector. So this runs up this harness end. We're just gonna follow this harness going up. I'm gonna zip tie these pieces up here later. We just kind of had 'em down so you guys can see what we're looking at here. So from here we go up over our rear suspension and we just kind of follow the frame here. We just kinda stay above the frame pieces, just following down the frame. And we continue running the wire up above our rear axle. You'll see here on the bed crossbeam, there's a hole that was drilled in it there so we just stuck a zip tie through it and we we're able to zip tie our wiring there to make sure it doesn't fall down onto any of our rear suspension. From there, we actually go over the top of the frame towards the outside of the vehicle. So we came over the top of the frame here and then I just kind of passed it around the body mount right here and you can see this is our wire right here. So we just passed it around the body mount and then we just keep on routing it forward, going above our fill neck, staying above the fuel tank, and routing it behind any of these body mounts here. And that's the wire. We just keep on staying forward from there, just moving it down the frame. Just staying pretty much on top of the frame all the way down. Anytime we hit one of these body mounts, we tuck it around the back side of the body mount. Still head all the way forward. So we get here to about where the front of the driver's door is. Our cable is right here. We had zip tied it to the parking brake cable here. This is where our parking brake cable enters inside the cab right here for the parking brake pedal. So if you look, if we just go a little bit further forward here, you'll see that there's a grommet in the floor located right there. We actually just drill the hole through this grommet and we can poke our wire up through this grommet. Now, before you drill this hole, there's a couple pieces we need to take apart on the inside so you can pull your carpet back so you don't damage the carpet. So that's how we get it in there, we just drill this hole out. We're gonna lower the vehicle down now. We'll show you the grommet from the inside so you can see what we're talking about. So now we're right here in the driver's door, we've got it open. I did pull this panel off here. We're gonna be rerouting some wires here later. This just pulls out. This piece also here just pulls up. That's how we're gonna get underneath our carpet. So just kind of start here and pull it up. And I kinda work my way around the outside a little bit, pop that up. Now it is hooked underneath the side of this seat here. So you'll need to kinda twist it downward so you can unhook it from that little tab there. And then from here the piece, just keep popping it up until you get to this point and then it pulls straight towards the back to pop that off of there. We can just set that aside. And when we lift up our carpet, there's our grommet right there that we had talked about from underneath. So we just poke the wire right on through the grommet and I just kind of routed it up right back here and bundled up some excess there that we didn't need. And then you can just drop that carpet back down on there. Now we are gonna take some black silicon and we're gonna fill up this hole here just to keep anything from entering inside the cab here. All right guys, so next we need to mount up our module. I'm just gonna pull this out of the way so we can see it a little better. Here is the module that comes in your kit. And we just zip tied it. You see two zip ties right there. This is the air duct work for the HVAC system in here where it blows the air down on your feet. So you can see the pipe openings, there's one here, there's a pipe opening here. And right kind of at the end of this pipe opening here, it just becomes a flat piece of plastic that goes over to attach itself so it's for support. That flat piece of plastic there is a perfect place for us to zip tie our module right to that piece of plastic there. It'll keep it nice and secure and up out of the way for us but it's still easy to access if we need to. Now, before I zip tied this on here, I did plug the harness into it just because these ends here are gonna be difficult to get to while it's zip tied in place. So it was easier to attach the harness to it. Now it's easy to determine which ones plug into the module here because they're gonna be labeled ECU. And I mean, all your connectors are gonna, these ones are only gonna match with this so it makes it a little more obvious too. You have a large one that plugs in on this side here. And then on the other side, you've got a smaller rectangle one over here. Both of these connectors are on the same harness. Also on that same harness, you're gonna have this OBD2 plug here. So that actually just plugs right into the OBD port here. I just unplugged it just to make things easier for you to see on the module, but this actually just runs right over and plugs right into there. It has to communicate with our vehicle to get vehicle speed for proper operation, so it gets that information from there. All right, so now you've got both the connectors plugged into your module and this is on this last harness and we're working on the last one now. So you plug them into your module. You got one that plugs into the OBD port. You're gonna have a wire that matches the wire that we routed here. So right here, this is this portion here is on the harness that we just plugged into our module. You can see it's got kinda like two separate wires that go to this connector here. This is the connector that plugs into the one that we routed from the rear. And you can see it's labeled one on there and it's labeled one on this side. So you simply just match those up and plug the two together. And we're zip tying all the excess wire kind of right here to this same piece, this plastic piece. That'll keep everything up out outta your way and just kinda keep it all there for you. So we still have on this same harness coming out of this side of the module here that has the larger connector, there's a small blue wire, this little guy right here. This comes outta that connector, the back side of that connector that plugs into the module. This is our ignition source wire that will need to hook up to the ignition source so that way, when we start the vehicle, it lets the system know, hey, wake up, it's time to do your thing. So this is kind of the wake up signal here. So we routed this over towards the passenger side. And this wire actually wasn't quite long enough to make the full run over to where we need to make our connection so I did extend it. So we just used some more blue wire we had around here at the shop. If you need some extra wire, you can get some here at etrailer. The blue is a slightly different shade, a little bit different hue, but it's still blue so you are gonna see this is more of a baby blue. It's gonna turn to a deeper blue when we come out the other side because we had to make it longer. So now we're over on the passenger side. The wire that we, the blue wire we passed just right through here. I just used a piece of airline tubing to do it. If you're doing this at home, you probably got a metal coat hanger laying around. You can unfold that and that works pretty well to help you pass wires through. Just some electrical tape on it and you can just pull it through. 'Cause it's more rigid so it's not gonna fold up inside of this opening, like just the bare wire will. So we passed the wire on through and then I just ran it down the seam here. At the bottom, just kind of poked it in underneath kind of the fabric kick panel there and then we just routed it around up into here. We're gonna tap into a fuse over here, so we're gonna be using this. This does not come included with your kit. You can get this here at etrailer, it's a micro fuse tap. So we're going to remove one of the fuses. I've already tested these to see which ones are hot, only when the ignition is turned on. When you turn the vehicle off, they lose their power. So that way, when we start your truck, it's gonna excite the system and wake it up. When we turn it off, it sees that the voltage is gone and it's gonna go, oh, it must be time for me to go to sleep and shuts itself down. So the seven and a half and this 15 right here are both good candidates. The seven and a half on top is for the heated steering wheel and the 15 down below is for the air-conditioned seats. And if we look at our little chart here, that's gonna be used F20 for the 15 amp and F22 for the seven and a half amp. So we're gonna use the 15 just because when you use one of these fuse taps, it's important that you insert the fuse tap the appropriate way. A fuse doesn't matter, you can put a fuse in however you want. But with this fuse tap, it does matter, 'cause the way this fuse tap works, we've got these two prongs here. So the current's gonna be able to go up one prong, it's gonna go through the fuse, and then come back down the other. That's gonna be the original fuse that we're gonna be removing so the circuit's still gonna work like it did, just going through the fuse. Our tap here is this top section. So the current can go up, go through the fuse, and out this wire so we can utilize it. We need to make sure that this is touching the hot prong of our fuse, 'cause out of these two legs that's on the fuse there, only one of them is hot normally when the fuse is not present. So we pull the fuse out, we turned the ignition on. And these trucks, in order to turn these on, it's a push button, you just gotta hold the ignition button down while the key is inside the vehicle. It does take a while, it's probably like 15 seconds. It feels like forever but it does turn itself on to the on position then so you can test these fuses. Now I've already tested them. If you want to use the seven and a half, it's the bottom leg that's hot and then the 15 here, it's the top leg that's hot. And we're gonna use the 15 just because of the orientation here. With the bottom leg being hot, we'd have to go like that and then kind of collide with our connector there so it just doesn't fit as nicely. So we're gonna pull out the 15 right there. Our 15-amp fuse simply plugs into the bottom row here on our fuse harness next to the, next to there again. So we can go right up to the fuse and then back down into the panel, exactly how it was. We're now gonna take our other fuse, it's a micro fuse, and plug it into the top portion. This is for our systems that we're adding and then we'll go up and come out and go to our blue wire here. And we know that the top leg was the hot one so it's gonna plug in in this orientation. You can see here that it's still tight, no matter how you look at it with the these. But we should be able to kind of bend this just a little bit. And then there you have it, we can get that inserted in there. So I'm just gonna bring this wire around kinda like that. And then we'll probably leave a little bit of the excess here just to make it easy to tuck the wire in, maybe something like that. It's also easier for any kind of future repairs or things that's necessary. Not just repairs on something that we might be doing, but if your vehicle needs service in the future and the tech's gotta get in here, if you leave a little bit of excess, it makes things a little bit easier for them and they may not have to cut wires, which can end up costing you more in labor the more they have to do. So we'll then trim that back a little bit and then we're just gonna crimp it into here. And this little thing here, this is the butt connector. That's exactly what we used to extend the blue wire. We crimped it onto one side of the lighter blue color and then we used our blue wire that we had here and crimped it on the other side to extend it. After you strip back the wire, we'll just poke that exposed wiring into the other side of this butt connector. This butt connector here does come pre-installed on the fuse harness, just crimp that down. And now we've got our accessory installed and we're just gonna poke this wire right down in there. And we'll tuck it back nicely out of the way. Then we can then just reinstall our panel. You can see these are all the tabs, it just pulls right off of there. So we just wanna make sure that these line up. Fuse implement at the bottom. Kind of have to take this edge, when you're putting it back on, and tuck it into the weather stripping too. Kind of rolling it in there in order to, you can actually tuck it, like get it behind just like that. Kind of rolling it into place until my tabs line up here. Then just gently kinda tapping it until it snaps back in place. So now we're gonna head over to the other side. We had the other side removed and that's just going up to the indicator. So let's head over there and get that finished up. All right, lastly, we have the indicator wire here. We kind of briefly touched on it about this panel being removed. This just pulls off just like the other side. This is the, this is coming off that same kind of main harness that has the OBD connector on it, part of that same harness. So we just route this 'cause it's kind of near our module there 'cause it's all that same harness. We just kind of routed it from the module behind this opening and then just followed it up here. This is the majority of it. We stuck most of the excess in this kind of opening right there. And then the wiring runs around the side here and then it just runs right up to our indicator. And the indicator here that comes with your system, it just slides onto the mount here. And then this is just a suction cup mount, so let's remove it real fast so you can see it's just a typical suction cup mount. Nothing too special there. The mount just slides right into the groove on the back to attach the monitor. The connector we can see here. I'm not a huge fan of this. I wish they would've made the wire longer on the indicator 'cause now we got this connector up here by our windshield and it's kind of hard to hide this piece. So it would've been nice if this wire would've been longer and this one would've been shorter so we could've ran it down and kind of hid it better. But you can see it is labeled here. It says indicator on both the indicator side and on that main harness side, it says indicator there as well, so you can match those up. This type of square connection is the same as the long table that we routed from the back all the way up here. So pay attention to these little tabs on here to make sure you're plugging into the right one 'cause you can plug that into the wrong end if you're not paying attention. But again, they're very clearly labeled on here so you shouldn't have no problem with that. We're gonna go ahead and just put this back up on our Windshield up here. And we can kind of just poke the wire into the A pillar a little bit. But this is a very thick wire so you're not gonna be able to hide it as nicely as you would want. Again, you got that fat connector there that's difficult to hide. So now we got this installed here. I'm just gonna peel off the plastic off of our indicator and we should be ready to head out to our trailer again and connect it together and verify proper operation. All right, so now that we've got everything hooked up here, we can kind of test out the truck side just to see that it's gonna power up. It should give us a code as well because we're not currently plugged into our trailer. So we should get kind of like a do-re-mi type code from it, where it beeps at us, letting us know like, hey, there's a fault. And the fault is that we're not plugged into the trailer. So we're just is gonna hold down our start button. And again, it takes a minute here for it to go into the on position. All right, our truck turned on, turned on our unit. And there's our do-re-mi telling us that there's an error with the system that it can't communicate with the sensors on the trailer. And again, it's 'cause we're not plugged into the sensors on the trailer. So looks like our truck side seems to be working properly. We're gonna go hook up to the trailer. All right, so we're now back outside. We went ahead and hooked up our trailer to the truck. This is the new connector that we've got here at the front of our trailer. We zip tied it down with our seven-way. Let's line up the slots. The pin holes here, you can kind of look in and see the pins and then just match it up with this side. It is a little tricky to get it to line up. There we go, I think we got her. There we go. And then this collar there just kind of twists and locks into place. And we are now connected to our system here. We should be ready to head out on the road now. And that completes our installation of CUB's Blind Spot Monitoring System on our 2021 GMC Sierra..

Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F

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