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CUB Blind Spot Tail Lights Monitoring System Installation - 2018 Ram 1500

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How to Install the CUB Blind Spot Tail Lights Monitoring System on a 2018 Ram 1500

Hey everybody, how's it going Today, we're gonna be going over and showing you how to install the taillights with blind spot monitoring system here on our 2018 Ram 1500. So this kit here is gonna be an excellent upgrade here for your vehicle if it didn't already come equipped with the blind spot or rear cross traffic safety features. So basically what these are is, this kit does two different things. Number one, it's gonna alert us to our blind spots. Therefore, when we're driving out in the highway and we wanna turn over or merge over into another lane and there's someone coming up onto that lane behind us, we can't always see them because our factory mirrors don't always give us the best visibility. So there is a certain area where we can no longer see them, but they would still be in potential for a collision if we we're to get over.

And that's just simply referred to as our blind spot. Something we can't see in our mirrors. So having this system on board here, this is gonna alert us to someone in our blind spot. That way we know we can't quite get over. We either need to speed up or let the traffic move on by, so we can safely merge and to the other lane.

So that's gonna be the main feature of this kit here. The other one is going to be a cross traffic safety feature. So cross traffic, this is best gonna be demonstrated. Let's say we we're at the grocery store. There's a busy parking lot.

A lot of the times you can have traffic coming both ways behind you and you can't really see until you back up the vehicle because you're all the way at the front there and there's usually cars on either side. So you really can't tell if there's anyone coming until you get in your vehicle and you actually start backing up. Now sometimes depending on the speed of the cross traffic, this can actually cause a collision because you just can't see them. And you're pretty much coming out blind to them as well. So having a system in place here to alert us if there's a vehicle coming up on us when we're trying to back up, it's gonna ensure that we don't cause a collision.

So we do have an on and off button here for our blind spot monitoring system. And the real reason you're gonna be using this is when you're towing. This system here doesn't work well if you're towing a trailer because it's gonna think someone's in your blind spot and it's gonna give you false alerts. So while you're towing, it's a good idea to just go ahead and turn the system off here so you don't get any false readings. So we're merging onto the highway here trying to get over. Got my turn signal on. Luckily everybody is letting me over, but I do can kinda see, I got a car coming up on me. Yep. Right now our system is alerting us to that. So I need to know basically telling me I can't get over. I'm not safe. Now I can look out the window and see them there, but I couldn't see when he was right coming up on me. So the system worked pretty good there, no complaints. So let me know that there was a car in my blind spot and I needed to use caution before I got over. Looks like he sees I want to get over. So now he's slowing down and now I can successfully merge. So coming onto the highway, I always find myself to be a bit cautious when you're doing that because you don't know if everyone's gonna get over, if they're gonna merge for you. And a lot of the time that traffic is coming up on you a lot faster than you're merging onto the highway there. So having that feature there is especially helpful in that particular situation, I will say. Although our system will only give us an audible alert while we have the turn signal activated, it's still gonna have that light in the A pillar when there is someone in your blind spot. So you're not always gonna get that loud audible alert. It's only when you have your turn signal on. If you just a glance at the monitor, you will see a light still when there's someone in your blind spot. So go ahead and put it in reverse here. I can see we have someone coming up behind us and there we go. Our system is working correctly 'cause it's alerting me to that oncoming car. Therefore, I know I need to stop and wait for them to pass before I can pull out. So the blind spot and the rear cross traffic are actually factory equipment on certain makes and models. So whether you purchased one without those upgrade options, or it just simply wasn't an option for your vehicle at all. This kit here is gonna be a great added safety feature. So you can get to your destination safe and sound and in one piece. So what's really neat about out this particular kit here, because there are other aftermarket blind spot monitoring systems you can install in your vehicle, but this kit here is pretty much plug and play for the most part. It actually integrates into the vehicle very nicely and uses a lot of the factory components. So in the kit you're actually gonna be getting new taillights. So I really like to look at these new taillights. You're basically gonna use these same bulbs as the factory one, but we do have an extra sensor built in here on the bottom. And this is gonna be where the sensors are located for our blind spot and our cross traffic. So it does replace the factory taillights. And if you ask me, I really like the looks to these. So it adds to the style of a vehicle as well. So the way this all works is and how it can communicates with the vehicle. So we have our new taillights here and then we have a couple extra wiring harnesses that plug into the vehicle. Now the port in the vehicle we're gonna be using mostly is gonna be the OBD2 port. In addition to the OBD2 port, we do have a couple wires we have to splice in. So mostly plug and play, but there are a couple splicing connections we need to make, which is back at the trail connector. That's not gonna affect any of the systems on your vehicle, so it is pretty minor. But basically what this does is this sends a signal to our control unit there that lets us know when we're up to speed and when we're making our turns there because if we we're just driving around in an empty parking lot or a half full parking lot, what have you, each time we pass a car, if there wasn't any sort of metrics there, our system's gonna go off. And we don't want our blind spot monitoring system going off when we're just driving around town and we're driving through a parking lot. Therefore, it needs a way to decipher that signal. And how this does it, it picks up on two different things. It picks up on the vehicle speed and it picks up when we have our turn signals engaged. So this is gonna get rid a lot of those false triggers there because the system isn't going to turn on until we're at highway speed and we're using either our left or right turn signals. So it's gonna be a way to make sure that we don't have any false readings. And they're only really working when we need it, which when you're out on the highway. So then we do have an ignition wire. That's gonna get hooked up to the fuse bay up here for the fuse box in the engine bay. Now this is just simply gonna turn on the signal. It's gonna let the system know when we start the truck so we can wake it up. So inside the vehicle here, mount into either A pillar, we're gonna have our sensors here. So the sensors they're gonna be an LED light. So basically when there is someone in our blind spot, this is going to flash yellow. That's gonna let us know which side the system is warning us, whether we have a vehicle on the driver or passenger side. There's one of these on each side. So the correct side is gonna light up depending on what side the vehicle's coming up on. And then we're also gonna get an audible alert via a speaker mounted here behind the A pillar. So this is gonna give us a nice indication of someone in our blind spot. We're gonna get both an audible and a visual alert. And the visual alert is gonna be side specific. So we can easily tell which side that we need to have caution on. So in regards to installation, this particular kit really isn't bad. It is gonna be mostly plug and play. There's gonna be very little modifications to the vehicle. The only thing that you do have to modify or rather splice into is gonna be three wires at the back of the trailer connector, but that's not gonna affect any of the lights on your vehicle, so it's really not that big of a deal at all. But aside from that, everything is pretty much straightforward, plug and play. You really don't need too many special tools to do this. You're gonna just need some common hand tools to get the taillights off, to remove a couple panels. But aside from that, you're gonna get a set of wire crimpers and strippers, but that's pretty much it as far as the tools. I would say, this is definitely a beginner can do this, to do it yourself. You're gonna have no problem getting this done in three to four hours or so, depending on your experience level. We'll go ahead and walk you through this entire process, step by step now. So the first step of our installation is to mount our control module here. So this is what it looks like in your kit. Now there's a couple different places we can mount this, but a lot of your connections are gonna be inside over here on the driver's side. So I recommend mounting this behind the dash on the driver's side. We'll go ahead and show you where we have that mounted, but there's a couple different options you have in regards to mounting. You can either use the hook and loop fastener secured to the back of the module or you could just use zip ties, which is what we decided to do, but we mounted our particular unit to the bracing for the dash, back behind this panel here. So we'll try to give you a closer look at that now. So it is hard to see due to where we have it located. But if you remove this panel here, it just prize off with some clips over on the side here. You should be able to see back in there where we have our module mounted. Now in order to actually get it up in there, you're gonna go from underneath the dash. You're actually gonna reach up through there, just like so. And then we basically just use a large zip tie to secure it to two holes on the existing bracket there used for the dash. So unfortunately it is pretty hard to see, but we do wanna make sure that thing's hidden out of the way. We wanna make sure it's up here in the dash as much as possible because we don't want any of those wires dangling down, getting caught in our steering shaft or our brake pedals. And the next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna remove this panel here. So this is pretty easy to remove. You're gonna have two Philips head screws on the bottom, one on each side. And then once you get those removed, you should be able to pull this out and then you're gonna release the clips at the top here. You can see those yellow clips. There's gonna be three of them on each side. Actually there's four on each side, but go ahead it and just pull, take your time and pull those straight back. That way you don't damage any of them. And then this is just gonna hang down here, like so. So coming from our main harness, we're gonna have our OBD2 connection. So this is gonna plug into the factory OBD2 port on the vehicle, which is actually located on the bottom of this panel. You can see those wires coming out the back of it. It's actually just gonna plug straight into there, like so. So the next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna mount our power switch here that looks like this. It comes in your kit. So you get about eight or nine inch lead here coming off the back of that power switch. So we can choose to mount of power switch wherever we want. But for this particular vehicle, a good location is gonna be right here, down into the right of your headlight switch. So this panel here, it's a nice flat surface and there isn't anything behind there. So what I did is I just took the included drill bit in your kit here. And you obviously need to put on the whole saw bit there. But once you do, you'll just drill right into this material here. And then once you get that hole made, you'll just take your switch. You'll feed this connector in through the hole and then it should just pop right into place, like so. And then you will have a connection you need to make at the backside. So this particular connector here is gonna go to one of the wires coming from your main harness. So one of the wires coming from here, you need to make sure that you get the one that's labeled BSD. It should be pretty obvious. So that'll finish up your connection here for your power switch. And throughout the installation, you're gonna have a ton of extra wires. So what you need to do is, especially when you're working behind the dash here, you wanna make sure that you take some zip ties and you tie up that extra wire. So it's not dangling down where our brake and our gas pedal is as well as the steering shaft. So the same could be said for the power wire. And our OBD2 connection that we made, you wanna make sure that it's secure up any loose wires. Unfortunately, all that that we've done is behind the dash. So it's really hard to see. So we'll show you what we can, but for tying up the wires here for these two connections that we just made. You're gonna have to tie everything up behind the dash there. So the next thing we're gonna do is we should have three more of these leads coming from the power harness, coming from the wiring harness. So those leads are gonna be labeled buzzer. So one of them is gonna have a white tag on it that says buzzer and the other two is gonna do L for left LED and then R for right LED. So what you wanna do is you wanna snake your wires out this little side panel here. And again, you do have to remove that panel. This is what it looks like. It just simply pops off and then we're gonna snake our wires out through here, and then we're gonna feed them up behind the dash here through that little opening there. And then you're just gonna let the excess here hang down while we make our other connections. We're ready to remove our A pillar here over on the driver's side. So chances are there's gonna be two bolts securing this to the body of the vehicle. And those two bolts are gonna be located behind these two little panels here, these two little knockout panels. So again, we're gonna take our trim panel tool or a pick tool since these ones are kind of small, just to go ahead and pry those out, just like so. And if we look in there, we should be able to see that we have a hex bolt fastener securing that to the vehicle. I'm gonna go ahead and pry back both of those covers now and then we can get our socket in there to remove the bolts. And then once we get that last fastener out, we should just be able to pull the pillar down from the vehicle. There's probably a couple more push to connect fasteners behind there as well. And you can see here, this is actually our airbag. So we need to be careful not to puncture that or dislodge it too much or else we'll go off. But we're just gonna go ahead and just set it into position just mock it up, like so, because we need to find a place here where we can mount our little monitor light. So the monitor light is what's going to signal us if there's someone in our blind spot. So this needs to be easy to see here, but we obviously don't want it somewhere over here because the sensors or monitor lights do sit in an angle. So what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna take a paint marker. I'm just marking out here on this panel where I think is a good place to mount it. Now we have plenty of clear space down here and I don't think it's gonna get in the way with the airbag, which is located over here. So down in this area here, it's probably gonna be a good spot. I'm just gonna roughly mark it out with a marker there where we're going to drill our hole. And now that we have that marked, we can go ahead and remove the A pillar again. That way we can drill the hole through there and then attach our light. So we've got our pillar here on a flat surface that we can work with a little bit better. So this is what our monitor light looks like. We need to make sure that we grab the right one 'cause there's two of them. They look identical. This one says LEDL is gonna be the left, which is gonna match up with the driver's side of the vehicle here. So we'll get this ready, but we'll go ahead and take our drill bit from earlier and we'll just drill that hole where we marked it on the panel. And then similar to how we did with our other hole. I'm gonna come back to the razor blade and clean up all those rough edges. If you have a file or a piece of sandpaper, that'll work great as well. Now we'll take our light here. I'll go ahead and feed the connector through our hole. And we'll go ahead and place it into position. Just make sure it's oriented correctly there. You obviously want the angle to be facing the driver. So just like that, go ahead, press it to lock it into place. Next we're gonna take our speaker that comes in our kit or otherwise known as the buzzer that's gonna be labeled correctly, just like so. This is what it looks like. On the back here, we have some double sided tape. Go ahead and just peel that off. We're gonna be mounting this behind the driver's side A pillar, just like so. Go ahead and press down so we get good adhesion. So we can mount this wherever we want, but the instructions do specify the best place is gonna be behind you're A pillar and you got plenty of flat space here to mount it. So that's where we're choosing to mount ours. And then what you're gonna do is you're just gonna set your A pillar into position like we have it now and take those two wires for the LED and the buzzer and route them through this area here. And then you're gonna make the two connections coming from your main harness. So you can see there's part of that label earlier that we showed you or we talked about, LEDL. So L is gonna be for the driver's side. Those two connectors are simply gonna plug in one to one another and then you're gonna have your other one coming from your buzzer, which will be labeled buzzer. So there you can see there's our harness labeled buzzer. So that's the one we need to make our buzzer connection to. And then finally, we're gonna have one more wire that we pulled up here earlier, and that's gonna be labeled LEDR for the right hand side, and that's gonna go over to the passenger side. So we'll go ahead and show you how to route it over there. But as you can see, we have a large bundle of extra wire that we didn't need to use. So all I did is I just took some zip ties here. I just secured it behind this panel. Try to get it to sit as flush to the metal as you can. That way you don't get any interference issues when you're reinstalling your panel. But for our right side LED wire, it's gonna be substantially longer than the other two. So it's pretty easy to distinguish. And all we did is we just simply tucked it between the windshield and the dash. So once you pull your right side LED wire up behind the A pillar, basically, you're just gonna tuck it between the dash. There's actually some foam piece here in the windshield. And if you have a trim panel tool, you can use that to tuck the wire back behind that panel. But you do have quite a long wire so there's plenty enough to reach over to the passenger side. Just continue using this method until you have the wire tucked all the way behind the panel and route it to the other side of the vehicle. So you can see here, we have our wire routed over here to the passenger side. And again, we just tucked it behind the dash and the windshield. Now we're gonna repeat the same steps we did over on the driver's side by removing the A pillar, drilling the hole for our sensor there, and then tucking our rest of our wires here behind the dash. So we're gonna go ahead and do that now. So now I'm gonna pull the remaining connections there from the bottom of the control unit. So we should have four wires. A yellow wire, an orange wire, a white wire, and then a blue wire, which you can't see here. So we're gonna go ahead and just bunch those up and leave them here in this area because we have one more connection we need to make on top of the control unit. So depending on which way you mounted, it could be the top or the bottom, but you should have one other rectangular white connector you need to plug into there. And basically, that's just gonna be about a seven or eight inch section that's gonna plug into the top of the control unit. So reach your arm back up there and plug that in. And then the other end is gonna go to a connector, which you can see here. So this is sort of that seven or eight inch section. It's gonna stop right here. And then from this plug all the way to the rear, you're gonna get about 20 foot of wire. So what you're going to do is you're gonna hold off on making that connection there, but you do wanna get it ready inside the vehicle here. So in this area, we should have four wires and then our very long harness here, the other end that connects to this. But don't make that connection yet because we need to find a way to route it from outside the vehicle in, which is what we're gonna show you now. So in order to get our bare wires and that long harness from inside to vehicle out, because we need to run it back to the tail lights, we need to remove this panel here. So this panel isn't held in place with any fasteners. It's just gonna be these push clips. So you're basically just gonna pry off from the bottom and then you're just gonna pull it out, like so. You can see all those clips on the backside there. There's no screws or anything. They just pop out. But once we get that panel out, we're gonna go ahead and lift up your carpet here. And about this area here is where we're gonna have our emergency brake cable going through. And then directly behind that, what we did is we took a drill bit and we went ahead and drilled out a hole there because that's what we're gonna use to pass our wires and lines underneath the vehicle and outside. So I just used a burr bit to enlarge the whole. I actually use the drill bit that comes in your kit there, but that's not quite large enough for the connector. So you can use that drill bit to get your main hole. And then you're gonna take some sort of file or burr bit and open it up a little bit on each side because this connector is rectangular and the whole saw that you get in your kit is actually a circle. So unfortunately, you're just not gonna be able to stick the connector through there. You do need to enlarge the hole a little bit more. And if we look in here, you can actually see, I have a grommet that I placed inside that bare metal there. That way I don't have to worry about our wires rubbing on that metal and possibly shortening them out. So next we're gonna take that rectangular connector that was on that 20 foot harness. And you're gonna feed it from underneath the vehicle, inside the vehicle, using that hole we just showed you, and then you can route the wire along, like so, and make your connection here where you have your other connector located. And then what we're gonna do is we're gonna take our orange wire, our yellow wire, and our white wire. We're gonna route them down through here, like so, and out that hold there that we just showed you a second ago. So now we have one more connection we need to make inside the cap here. It's gonna be the blue wire that came from this strand here with our yellow, orange, and white wire. So the blue wire, instead of routing it down through the floor into the rear of the vehicle, that's gonna be our fused connections so we're gonna route that into the engine bay. Now, how we got it into the engine bay is we actually just routed it straight through the firewall. There's a nice large grommet on the firewall. We just cut a slit through and then we pass our wire through. Before you do that, however, you may wanna go ahead and extend your wire now because you're gonna need to eventually in order to make your connection to the fuse box. So it's a good thing to do it now while it's inside the vehicle. So go ahead and extend your wire. And now we'll jump under the dash so we can show you where to poke it through. So there you can see our blue wire. We actually just use the same grommet that our hood latch release cable goes through. So if you just follow this from the panel all the way back into the firewall, you'll be able to see that grommet back there. And then you can just either cut a slit to poke your wire through or you can feed it out the same hole that your table comes out of. So there's our wire coming from out there of the firewall and all we did, we ran it all the way to the fender here. And at this point here, you can see where our extended wire begins, because again, you're not gonna have enough wire to reach where we need to go, but we're just gonna pretty much follow it on the side of the fender here between the fender and the battery. And now you can see a blue butt connector here. So in order to make our fuse connection, we're gonna be using an existing fuse, which is right here. So once we get our wire routed up to the fuse box, you're gonna cut a hole in the backside of the fuse box. Just a little slit there, that way you can close the lid with our wire routed through. But then in order to hook up your wire to fuse power, you're gonna need a fuse splice. So we actually sell these here to etrailer. And basically how this works is we're gonna be using the F70 slot, which if we look in the diagram is for our fuel pump and that's a 30 amp fuse. So we're gonna take our fuse splice here. The factory fuse is gonna go into one of the terminals there on our fuse splice and then we gonna need to add our own fuse. We just used a 10 amp fuse. That'll be plenty of power here for this particular circuit, and we're gonna insert it into the other side of our fuse splice. Then our fuse splice just simply plugs in, like so. Just make sure it's in the F70 slot. And then you should be able to close your fuse box lid. You do have a butt connector on the fuse splice there that you'll just attach to the wire that we extended up from that blue ignition wire that we showed you earlier. So here you can see the blue wire coming from our control unit here. Now you will need to extend this wire, whether you do that in the engine bay or in the cab, it doesn't matter. But we went ahead and just clipped that there. We had to take some of our own wire and some butt connectors, so we can extend that. Then we just have it zip tied to some existing wiring. Now we used the grommet there for the hood latch release in order to get the wire into the engine bay. So we just poked a small hole through there with the screwdriver and then we just fed our wire through. Now, we'll go on the engine bay there, we'll pull that wire up, make our connections, and then we already have the fuse box side of it done. So now we're gonna come underneath the vehicle here and we're gonna finish routing our wires that we ran through the floor earlier. So these need to go to the rear because we're gonna be splicing or not splicing these in, but we're gonna be connecting these to our new taillights. So we should have three wires. An orange wire, a white wire, a yellow wire, and then this braided harness here. So what we're gonna do is we're gonna come down from the bottom of our grommet, and then we're gonna go up and over the frame rail and have it zip tied to this existing harness here just to keep everything in place. So now we're on the inside of the frame here. And this is where our main harness is, and we just continued to route our wires here along this main harness on the side of the frame. So we got to about this point here before we actually ran out of wires here. So cab tells you that you can either splice these wires in behind the trailer connector, or you can splice them in up inside the vehicle there behind that kick panel. I really didn't want them mess with any of those wires. So I decided just to run them to the rear of the trailer connector. If you do this, though, you will need to extend the wires. Depending on how you routed yours, you may get a little bit further, but this is the point where we need you to extend them. So I just took three separate wires that we have, and I used some butt connectors, some heat shrink foot connectors, and I attached them to our three wires that we be routed through here. Once you get those wires, we're pretty much just gonna tie it to our other harness that we have. That's gonna be plenty long. You won't have to extend that. And then we're gonna become up and over the brackets for our gas tank, inside the frame rail, all the way to we get to about this point here. You can see our wires coming out now. So again, we have this long black harness here. You're gonna have plenty of that. You don't have to extend that. But here's our new wires that we extended from the three ones earlier 'cause we told you they weren't long enough. Now we didn't have the exact same color wires that came off the factory harness so we just used green, yellow, and brown. So those are pretty common wire colors for trailer wires. That's what we had available. I just to attach the yellow wire from the factory harness to our new yellow wire that I used. And then the green wire went to the orange wire and then the black wire went to the brown wire. So just keep that in mind. But now we're gonna go up and over our cross member here. Again, a couple more zip ties connecting it to our factory wires here. And then we're gonna come all the way over here till we get to about this point here. And then we're actually gonna separate our three colored wires from that main black harness. So we're gonna sort of veer off to the right here. You can see, we have a very large bundle of wires that's because they give you plenty of extra here. So basically how this works is you're gonna get two other harnesses in your kit that look like this long one that we just routed. One of them is a Y splitter. And basically that's gonna plug into our wire that we ran over here. And then one end of it is gonna go up into the tail light. And the other end is gonna attach to our other harness, which goes over to the passenger side. So I know that may sound confusing, but it's only gonna go together one way. You're just gonna get several of these connectors here. One to our Y splitter and then one to our passenger side harness. So all we did is we ran one to the driver's side, up into the taillight pocket, which you can access through a hole up here. And then the other one, we just ran up it over the hitch to the other side and did that same thing and just ran it through that pocket. So here's where we have our splice connections to our factory seven-way. I just removed the seven-way by pressing that button there at the top of it. And then you can pull it down to have enough room to work, but basically you're gonna peel off that fabric tape coming from the back of the seven-way and that's gonna expose your wire. So what the connections that we made is the yellow wire is gonna be for the stop and turn. That's gonna go to the yellow wire coming from the factory harness. The green wire is gonna be for the right stop and turn. That's gonna go to the orange wire or in our case, the green wire, because that's what we used to extend it. And then finally, we have the black wire coming from the factory seven-way. That's gonna be for the reverse and that's tapped into the black wire or the brown wire coming from the factory harness. So we just use some heat shrink butt connectors to make those connections. And then we taped everything up. And then if we look up a little bit, you can actually see that passenger side harness that we talked about earlier. Again, we just routed it over here to the passenger side, securing it to some existing wires along the way. So next we're gonna remove our factory taillights. So you're gonna have two torque screws on the inside, which we'll remove using a T25 torx bit. And then once we get those out, we're just gonna pull straight out and away on our taillight assembly. Now you'll just simply grab a hold of the bulb assemblies and you'll twist them. This one's getting hung up on my bottom one. So I think I'll actually do the bottom one first. You'll just twist them and then pull straight out, like so. That one's getting hung up on me a little bit. There we go. And now we should be able to just pull this the rest of the way off the vehicle. So now we'll take our new taillight assembly. And basically it's just gonna install pretty much the same way. You're gonna take your bulbs here. You're gonna have to line them up inside and then you'll rotate to lock it in place. Perfect. And then the only thing that's gonna be different is, the connector that we routed up here earlier, this is actually the on with the Y splitter. It's just simply gonna plug into that connector there, which we didn't have before, at the bottom of the taillight. Go ahead and press that in. Now we'll just simply reinstall our taillight. You'll line up the little keepers on the side. Press in, like so, and then resecure it using our screws. We're pretty much just gonna repeat the same thing for the other side for our passenger side taillight. So now that we have everything secure, all of our connections made. Go ahead and hop in your truck there, head out on the road to test the system, make sure it's working correctly. But that's gonna do it today for our look and installation of the taillights with blind spot monitoring system here on our 2018 Ram 1500..

Info for this part was:

Employee Jacob T
Video by:
Jacob T
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L

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