Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2020 Chevrolet Trax

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How to Install the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2020 Chevrolet Trax

Hi there Trax owners. Today in your 2020 Chevrolet Trax, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install Tekonsha's 4-pole flat trailer connector wiring. And this is what your wiring's going to look like when it's installed. It's designed to be stored inside the vehicle when not in use, and this will protect it from the elements, ensuring a longer lasting connection. When you're ready to use it, we can simply drape it out the back here. And it'll pinch in between our weatherstripping.

You just want to make sure you avoid the striker here in the middle.We can then just plug our 4-pole connector into our trailer and it'll provide us with all the necessary lighting, which includes our left turn signal, right turn signal, tail lamps, and brake lamps, keeping us DOT compliant in all States. If you do want to leave it outside the vehicle, it does have an included dust cap to protect it against any dirt and debris and help keep out moisture. But what I really like the dust cap for us for when I'm not using the wiring. When I go to store it in my compartment, I like to roll my wiring up, and I'll use the dust cap to secure everything together. It'll just wrap around your wiring and then put the cap on.

And then it will neatly store in the compartment just in front of our tire.And one of the things that I really like about this wiring harness is the fact that it does have an included module. The module monitors all the lighting signals from your vehicle, and then it produces the signal that's sent to your trailer. What's nice about that is that if there's any faults on your trailer, the module will detect that and shut down the circuit. And in the event that it's unable to shut it down in time, the module has its own dedicated power wire with fuse protection. So the fuse would just open on our module and it won't affect our vehicle whatsoever.

We can then repair our trailer, replace the fuse, and our harness is ready to work again.It's a fairly quick and easy installation. Let's remove a few panels here in the back. Let's go over the installation together so you can have the confidence to do it at home. We'll begin our installation at the back of the vehicle with our lift gate open. We'll need to remove several components here in the back to access our connectors.

We'll start by taking out the two anchors here on our rear threshold using a 10 millimeter socket.We can then pull out our entire centerpiece here and get this out of the way. And then we'll start working up the threshold. This beast will just pop up. And we'll set this aside as well.We'll then take out our foam pieces. We'll use a T-40 to remove the nut located down inside. Once you've got it loose, we can lift the whole panel off. Sometimes your nut may get stuck down inside the foam. It's okay. You can just leave it there. We can see it's still down in there, kind of stuck on the foam. There it goes. Okay. And we'll just set this aside and then we're going to do the same thing to take off the other side. We'll then peel back our weather stripping.And our connector is located here just on the inside so we can use our trim panel tool to gently pry out on this panel. If we look down in the cracks, we'll see some clips. We're just kind of looking for those clips at various locations and just gently prying it out.Now that we've got it pried out, we can reach our hand in here to access our connectors. You'll have a connector on the backside of your tail light. That's what we want to disconnect. So just reach your hand in there. You'll be able to feel for the connector and then just press it on the release tab and disconnect it.Once you get it disconnected, you can pull out the bottom half to about here. The top half isn't really long enough. You can barely just see it right there of the other connector. It's located right here on the inside of the wall. You can just pop it off the wall there. There's a little clip you see right here where it just pushes it into a slot. We'll then take our new connector. We're going to route it behind the panel and we'll take and just plug this into our factory ones. So we've got our factory female in there. That's going to plug into the male end on our new harness. And then the other female end here is going to plug right back into our factory harness.Then you can just click it back into that slot on the wall. Spiel around, you'll feel the slit and the connector will just snap right in. We'll then do the same thing over here on our passenger side. But we're going to be plugging in the red and green wire in between the connectors over here on the passenger side. You'll get plenty of length so we can easily run it across the threshold here to plug those in. And just like we did over there, we're doing the exact same thing over here.We're not going to mount our module up, but the black wire here could be difficult to access. So real quick, before we do that, we're just going to go ahead and connect the black wire, which is going to be our power wire. So you'll receive some extra black wire in your kit. You'll also receive a butt connector. We're going to use the butt connector that came in the kit for the connection back here. We'll then strip back the wiring that came in our kit, crimp on our yellow butt connector and then crimp the yellow butt connector to the wiring on the other side.We can then take our module. Now we're going to put it in its position where it's going to live, peel off the adhesive backing from the double-sided tape that comes in your kit, apply it to the backside of the module. And then we're going to stick the module just behind our panel here on the driver's side. And you want to hold it there for about 20 seconds, 25 seconds to ensure it has good adhesion. The white wire coming off of our module is the ground wire. We're just going to use the self-tapping screw that came included with our module. And we're just going to run it right into the side paneling here. We're using a quarter inch socket to do so.We'll then need to feed our power wire down to the outside so we can get up to the front. There's a grommet right here on the inside, near where we mounted our module. Used my razor knife first to slip the sealant on it, and then we can just use our screwdriver to pry up underneath of it and then pry this grommet out.We're now underneath the vehicle on the driver's side. Just in front of our hitch here, you'll see a brake line right there. This is a hole we're going to go through. And we're going to use a fish wire to feed our power wire down. We're using a piece of airline tubing, but you can use anything that you want that's a little bit flexible, but rigid that you can poke up there to attach your wire to.We can then come up here up top, grab the fish wire that we've ran down the frame and then pull it out. We can then take the black wire that came in our kit. We're going to try not to get that tangled up with our other wires. We'll use electrical tape to tape our black wire to our fish wire. And then we'll use our fish wire to pull it back down through the frame, so we can route our wire up to our battery where we'll be making our connection. Your wire is going to be all tangled up. So take a few minutes to straighten it out. That'll just make feeding it easier. And that is good enough. Our frame snap doesn't have a whole lot inside of it that's going to prevent us from pulling this back through, but to keep our tape from getting caught on anything when we're pushing it down, a lot of times, it is a little bit easier if you poke the wire down into the hole first. We'll now pull our fish wire down, along with all of our wiring.Once we've got our wire pulled down, we're going to route this up to the front and then into our engine compartment where we'll be connecting it to our battery. I'm going to go ahead and route that wire now, and then I'll show you the path I took to get it there. Our wire came out of the frame where we fed it through. And then from there, we just started routing it forward. I did zip-tie it to a little hole here where you can poke a zip-tie through, just to keep it away from our spring pack. And we're avoiding anything psychically hot, like our exhaust, anything moving like our suspension here.From there, we come alongside of our fuel tank and we go ahead and zip-tie it once again to our parking brake cable. And then from there we go above the small air dam here on the bottom, and then we poke it into the frame. We'll then just stay inside the frame, going all the way forward. You can use your fish wire technique if you like. The way I just routed it is I just poke the wire in and then just came out the next hole down and just kept doing that until I got up the hole here at the front. And from here, we're going to be connecting to our fish wire, which is right here. And then we're going to pull it back up into our engine compartment.And once we get it up, I like to go ahead and zip-tie it to ensure that it doesn't fall back down. And then I also like to go down, back below and just double check to make sure that we pulled this up and there's not a bundle wire, maybe it got all caught up or anything. We don't want any slack down below. See right there. You just gave it a little pull and a little more came. So it's always a good idea to just double check yourself, to make sure there's no slack down there that can get caught on anything.Now that we've got our fish wire ran up, we can go ahead and hook our fuse harness to our battery. We always want to protect our circuit before hooking it to the battery. This comes included with your kit and we're just going to take the looped end here and we're going to cut it back. So we have two pieces and then strip those. On one side, we're going to be placing a ring terminal. And on the other side, we're going to be placing a butt connector. This is the point where I recommend you upgrade to the heat shrink butt connector. Since it's outside the vehicle, we'll keep out all that moisture and ensure a long lasting connection.And then here's our ring terminal. And we can go ahead and attach the ring terminal. We're going to lift up on our cover for our battery, and we're going to use a 12 millimeter wrench or socket to remove the nut right here on our battery positive. Once you've got the nut removed, slide your ring terminal over the stud there, and then just re-install the nut. We can now take our black wire and we're going to trim it back, so we don't need nearly as much length here. I do like to leave a little excess just for the future. It makes any repairs that you may need to make a little bit easier. So we're going to trim it back to about there, strip back the black wire, and then we're going to connect this to the other end of our butt connector.We can now heat shrink down our butt connector. We have heat guns available here at etrailer.com. We can then insert our fuse and now we'll head to the back and plug in our tester and verify everything's working properly. You can get a tester just like we have here at etrailer.com. And you want to make sure you have your left turn signal, right turn signal, tail lamps, and brake lamps. With everything working properly, we can clean up any of our wiring with the included zip ties, put our paneling in the back, back together in reverse order however we removed it and hookup our trailer and hit the road.The black wire that we had run down on the inside, we can take the grommet that we removed and just cut a slit knit. You can use your snips. I just used a pair of the wire cutters to just cut it a few times down it, and then just slid the wire through it and then put the grommet back on. The red and green wire will just tuck behind your paneling when you're putting everything together. And that completes our installation of to Tekonsha's 4-pole flat trailer connector wiring on our 2020 Chevrolet Trax.

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