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Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver Installation - 2020 Mercedes-Benz GLC

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How to Install the Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver on a 2020 Mercedes-Benz GLC


Shane: Hey everyone, Shane here with etrailer.com. Today, I have a 2020 Mercedes GLC, and I'm going to walk through how to install the Curt class 3 trailer hitch receiver. This is what our hitch is going to look like installed on the vehicle. You can see our cross tube is completely hidden behind the fascia. All we can see is our receiver tube, and it kind of is back underneath the edge of the bumper fascia so we don't have to worry about hitting our legs or our shins on it when we're loading or unloading the vehicle.It's going to be a class 3 hitch, which is going to make it great for a lot of different accessories. It's going to have a two inch by two inch receiver tube opening.

Hitch pin hole is going to be five eighths inch in diameter. It's going to take a standard five eighths hitch pin. Hitch pin and clip does not come with a hitch, however, it can be found here at etrailer.We're going to have rolled steel safety chain loops, you can see very large openings. It's going to accommodate different size safety chain hooks. This hitch is going to be a steel construction with a nice black powder coat finish, so it's going to last for a really long time.

It's really going to help resist rust and corrosion.As far as our weight ratings and measurements go, from the center of our hitch pin hole to the outermost part of our bumper, it's going to be about six inches. That number is important for any of your hitch mount accessories you may fold up against the vehicle. You want to make sure they're not going to make contact. From the ground to the top innermost part of the receiver tube, it's going to be about 13 inches. Keep that number in mind for any of your hitch mount accessories that may require a little bit more ground clearance.As far as our weight capacities go, we're going to have a 900 pound max ton weight, which is a downward pressure on the inside of the receiver tube.

So if you're loading up a cargo carrier or anything like that, you want to make sure you're not exceeding that. We're going to have a 6,000 pound gross trailer weight, which is a trailer plus the load included. I recommend checking the owner's manual of the vehicle, make sure the vehicle can withstand that amount of weight. You're going to go with the lowest number between the vehicle and the hitch.Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's walk through how to get it installed. To start our installation, if your exhaust runs into your tips, you're going to have to remove your tips so you want to make sure you follow the instructions for doing that.

In our case, we don't have to, so what we're going to do is we're going to take a 10 millimeter socket, we're going to remove the two bolts here on each side. You're going to have a pushpin fastener here on each side. We're just going to pry down the center.Next we're going to take a strap. You can hang it from anywhere. I like to go from the springs, easily accessible. We're going to go underneath our exhaust pipe, kind of cinch it up, and then we're going to remove our exhaust hangers. We're going to have one here, one here, and one right here in the center. These two back here, we'll use a 10 millimeter socket, or your star bit, a star socket, and remove this bolt here on each side, and then the back one we'll have to remove the rubber hanger.We're going to take some silicone spray, soapy water, if he has some, we're going to spray the hanger down. Take a pry bar and we're going to pry off one end. We're going to take an eight millimeter socket. We're going to remove all the nuts that are holding our exhaust shield on and then we're going to remove our exhaust shield. After you remove the 10 nuts, go ahead and lower our exhaust, the heat shield. It might be kind of tricky, we're going to have to kind of slide it out the side here. Kind of pull down and across, and you're just going to have to work it out. And then we'll set that aside for now. Then if you look right up here, you're going to need a 10 millimeter head bolt, and then we're going to have another one on the other side.Next we're going to come to this trim piece on our wheel well, and we're just going to pop it out. We're going to have a couple of fasteners we need to remove. We'll have one right in here and that one's going down from this plastic piece to this panel, and then we're going to have one here and then one down lower. We're going to have that on each side. These are going to be similar to the ones that we're on the bottom, it might be easier with the space here if you have a pick or a small flathead screwdriver.Get it back behind that head there. Once you get the head out, then we can remove the base. You may not necessarily need to remove this one. I'm going to do it to give myself a little bit of extra room with my inaudible 00:05:35 so I can push it out of the way if I need to. And this one's going to be the same way as the other two. We'll get that center popped up and do the same thing.Once you get that out, it'll loosen this lower plastic panel. On each side on your panel, there's going to be wiring for your sensors. Take a flathead screwdriver and this end right here, we're going to slide it out and then we're going to push right in the center of the black piece and we're going to unhook that plug. Then once we slide that out, we're going to push down on it and then unplug it, and we're going to come right here where the wire connects onto this little piece here. We need to pop that off. You may have to take a screwdriver or something, kind of pry out one edge like that. And we're going to do that same thing on the other side.Next thing we need to do is these little fasteners right here, you'll notice how the center is open. The centerpiece is thick so what we need to do is we're going to reach on top of it, we're going to push down, and then we're going to push that out. There's going to be one right behind this panel here. You won't be able to see it when I do it, but I'll show you how to do this one. So we'll push down and that's going to release this lower plastic panel from the body itself.These are going to run all the way across over to the other side. You'll see the little fasteners, there's several of them that run around here. The bumper beam runs right here so you're going to reach over the top of it to get to the ones that run across the very back. It's a good idea to have an extra set of hands, just in case, for instance, like I did here in this one, they can hold this side up. You can reach up there and get it. We want to make sure we lower it down slow. We're going to have it plug right here in the middle. We need to disconnect, this is going to disconnect the same way. Push the white tab out, slide that out and then we'll have the fastener right there. And then we'll set our fascia aside somewhere safe.We're going to use an 18 millimeter socket. We're going to have a nut on the back side of our bumper beam here and one on the front side on the back. I'm going to leave this one partially on until I get the other side loose. Once you get your hardware removed, we can go ahead and remove our bumper beam. What you might find is this could be stuck on there, you might have to pry it off. You can put a screwdriver or trim panel tool back in there. A lot of times they'll put a silicone plate in there to keep moisture from getting inside the body of the vehicle. Slowly slide our bumper beams off, and we'll set it aside.In the instructions it's going to tell you to put your hitch on a bumper beam, torque it down, and then put your heat shield on. You're going to have trouble doing it that way because you can see our exhaust doesn't come down that far. I suggest putting your heat shield on first. We are going to have to trim it out, but this will give us an idea of where our hitch is going to sit that way we can mark it and cut it out, and we won't have to fight with trying to get it on later. Get it set up and then we'll reinstall our hardware.We're going to set our hitch into place. I'm going to go ahead and put a nut on the top on each side. That'll hold it up, center it on the vehicle, and then we're going to use our hitch as our template to mark out where we need to cut out on our heat shield. We're going to go up about three inches. You can go up a little bit higher if you want. And then we can pull our hitch back off and trim our heat shield. We're going to take some snips, cut each of those lines. I'm going to take this and I'm just going to fold it up. Take a pair of pliers and smash down the edge.Now we can throw our hitch back up just to check and see and make sure we got our cuts right. Make sure nothing is going to rattle and then we can reinstall our bumper beam over top of our head. We can get a nut on one side here. It may make it a little bit easier if you have an extra set of hands with that up in there if you don't think you can do it yourself.We're going to be using the same nuts that we removed from our bumper beam to begin with. Make sure we re-install the front and the back. To get the back nut in we have to remove the two heat shield nuts, they're right here. We may even want to take out this one. Pull that down enough to get the nut on, then we'll come back and tighten all of our hardware. Once you get it all tight, we're going to come back and torque it to the specifications in the instructions.Once you have your hardware torqued, you can go ahead and reinstall the two bolts or two nuts on each side of your heat shield that you removed and then reinstall your fascia in reverse order from the way you took it off. And what I found when I started reinstalling my bumper fascia is that this little plastic piece right here was hitting the hitch and wasn't allowing the fascia to go all the way back in. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to trim it just back to this edge. You can kind of see where I have it marked. I basically set it in place and use the hitch again just to mark the edges. Now we'll go ahead and cut that out.Now our lower fascia panel should snap back into place. Make sure you don't forget to reinstall all your wiring. Put this over the top. What you might find is that these little pieces is they might bend down, so just take your time, try to do one at a time if you can. Check that and see if we're going to able to make it. Just work our way from the center to the outside here.Once you have everything put back in place, you have your exhaust back up, you can go ahead and remove your strap. Once you have everything re-installed you can go ahead and remove your strap and you're ready to go. That's going to do it for our look at an installation on the Curt class 3 trailer hitch receiver on a 2020 Mercedes GLC.


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