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Curt Trailer Hitch Installation - 2022 Hyundai Palisade

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How to Install the Curt Trailer Hitch on a 2022 Hyundai Palisade


Hello neighbors, it's Brad here at etrailer. And today we're taking a look at the Curt class three trailer hitch for a 2022 Hyundai Palisade. This trailer hitch is a great option for the Palisade. And I say that for a few reasons, you're really able to utilize a lot of the towing capacity that this SUV has. And having a family with third row and loaded up, sometimes your cargo or the bikes that you want to take to the park can't always fit. With the two inch trailer hitch like this You're going to be able to put your accessories on there and know that it's going to be able to handle that weight assuming you're not overloading it.

Now, not having a exposed cross tube also is a nice feature in the fact that just the receiver and what you're using hangs out, whereas sometimes you do have bars hanging down, making a little more unsightly. This gives it a almost OEM appearance. Speaking on the accessories that you're going to carry this hitch can handle a gross trailer weight of 5,000 pounds, and that's going to be the weight of your trailer plus the accessories loaded up. Now your tongue weight is going to be 750 pounds, and that's going to be the downward pressure on the inside of the receiver tube hitch. Now this can be used with weight distribution, and that's going to bump our gross trailer weight up to 6,000 pounds.

Now our tongue weight is going to stay the same at 750. Before hooking up your accessories though, you want to check the owner's manual of your vehicle to make sure that the vehicle's towing capacity matches what the hitch is doing between the hitches' capacity and the vehicles take the lower of those two numbers and go with that to stay safe. The hitch is made out of steel. So it's going to be strong and durable and going along with that is going to be the nice black powder coat finish, which not only looks good, but it's going to protect against rust and corrosion longterm. Now the two inch by two inch receiver tube opening is going to be great for most accessories that come standard at a two inch.

So you're going to be able to put a bunch of different accessories with this hitch on your vehicle. Now, your safety chain opening here is going to be a rolled style, and that's going to be nice and open to allow for a number of different size hooks. Also on the side here, you have a standard five eighths hitch pin hole, and the hitch does not include a hitch pin, but we do have those here at etrailer. And that is a necessity for your accessory to work. Before attaching your accessories, there's a few measurements that you're going to want to take into consideration before hooking them up.

And one of those is going to be distance from the receiver tube to the furthest point on the rear fascia. And that's going to put us right at about two and a half inches. And that's important to note because some accessories will sink in further, and you don't want to make any contact with your rear fascia. So make sure you measure those before installing. Something else that's important, it's going to be the ground current. So from the ground to the bottom of the receiver tube is about 11 inches. And that's going to be important to note, if you're taking your bikes on a mountain bike course, some of those paths can get rough and you may hit some bumps. Something else to consider, your accessories will be sticking out quite a bit. So if you go on an incline, you may have the potential to hit the ground. So while you're driving, keep that 11 inches in mind. The installation process of the hitch on the Palisade is pretty straightforward. There's no major cutting or drilling. I had to make a small little notch on a plastic piece, but nothing major. All the hardware is supplied and you should be able to do this on your driveway. Now, if you're still kind of questioning whether or not to do it, I want to walk you through how to do it. And you'll see the steps and you can be the judge. We're going to begin our installation. And the first thing we're going to do is take our spare tire down. So if you haven't done this before in your vehicle, you're gonna want a nine millimeter socket. You're going to see this little gear box up here and what that's going to do as we loosen it up is going to drop this cable in the spare tire come with it. Now, very important. Normally, as you can see, I tried to tighten or tried to loosen it. You we're actually turning it clockwise to allow this to drop down. Once you have your spare tire dropped down, you're going to want to lift it up. And then this will actually come out. Now set this aside and we'll put it up later. On our driver's side, we're going to be removing this underside panel. Now you have three little pushpins here. And so you can use a flathead screwdriver and put it in the slot, give it a quick turn and they should come out pretty easy. Now we have two 14 millimeter plastic nuts here. So when you're loosening them up, they should come off pretty easy and don't use a power tool on it just because they are plastic. Put a little downward pressure when loosening those up and they're going to work their way out. And you're going to have your panel come off. Set this aside with your spare tire and we'll put it on later. We're also going to need to lower our exhaust down. Now, before we start pulling off the exhaust hangers, I like to run a strap underneath the exhaust and that way that unsupported weight has something to hold against. And it's not putting stress on the rest of the exhaust. I can hook on to our gas tank strap here. Again, the exhaust isn't a ton of weight. So it's not going to be supporting enough or a lot just enough to kind of hold it in place. Cinch it up just a little bit. And now we can start pulling off our exhaust hangers. So to get to our exhaust brackets and pull those off, you're going to see these little plugs here. Now, sometimes this rubber can get kind of tough to feed those out. So I'm going to use just a lubricant silicone spray. If you have penetrating oil or something along those lines, that'll also work. Just something to kind of move that up, to get it moving. So there's a total of four of them that we'll be tackling and I'm going to use a pry bar. It seems to work pretty well. And especially here, you have some metal to pry against and a simple push should release it. We'll work our way back. So now with the help of a friend, we're going to actually put the hitch in place. So grab a long bolt, each person, you're going to slide it up here and we're just going to feed one through. It's just going to hold it in place. We have our bolt in place and that's holding the hitch. Now we're actually going to run a bolt through the proper way to cinch it down. So we have our conical tooth washer. And if you look at the side here, it does have little teeth on it, and you're going to want that facing in towards the hitch. Now this little plastic piece here can kind of get in the way. So I suggest putting the washer up there and you may have to kind of move this around to get it through. We might even push this up if possible. Trying to feed the bolt through here. We are running into some issues with these plastic clips. So what am I do Let's just cut off a little bit of it. And that way we can get our bolt through there. With that cut out of the way, that should give us enough clearance to feed this through. Now, if you're having trouble getting it to line up, just kind of lift the hitch and move it side to side. Now let's feed this washer first, and that way we can pass that plastic. There we go. On this other side, we're going to put our conical tooth washer again, facing towards the teeth, facing towards the metal, and then hand tighten this on. Now that we have this one in place, we're going to repeat the same process on the other side. And we're going to take out these holding bolts and make sure that we put the conical tooth washer on the other side. And then also finish it up with the washer here, as well as a nut. Before really tightening these down we're going to actually install our four bolts and conical tooth washers on the bottom side here. So again, make sure the teeth are facing towards the hitch. So leaving it a little bit loose on the other bolts is going to allow us to kind of shimmy this, to make sure that these line up well, Go ahead and hand tighten those in on the other side. So with a 17 millimeter socket, I'm going to zip these four bottom bolts out, and that's going to pull that hitch up. Now you don't have to crank it down too much because we'll be going back with a torque wrench to get the proper torque specifications on it. So now we're going to do the large bolts. Once we have all the bottom ones done, that's going to be a 19 millimeter. Now you're going to want to put a 19 millimeter wrench on the other side and tighten it down. We'll also be torquing these down to the proper specs. So again, no need to go crazy on these. So now we're going to go back and tighten those up for the torque wrench. And you're going to want to use the specified torque specifications in the instruction manual. Now you do have two different size bolts. Obviously they do have different torque settings. So make sure you change for each bolt. If you don't have a torque wrench, we do have those here at etrailer. You also rent them at your auto parts store. So go on the nut side and tighten that down. And as I see, this is actually rotating. So I'm going to put a run from the other side real quick. Now, go through and do that with the other three remaining large bolts. So I've changed my torque settings for the 17 millimeters, and we're going to go through and torque those up. So when putting my plastic under panel back, I kind of noticed here I could get them one side in, but we are having a little bit of clearance issues with this bolt sticking out. This one should clear under the plastic, but I'm going to make just a small little trim mark, somewhere mark back there, we'll cut a little slot, and that way we can trim that down. We'll have no clearance issues. So our hitch is installed torque to specs and it's pretty well good to go. So all that's left before we hit the road is putting our underbody panel back up, lifting our exhaust and attaching it to the exhaust hangers, and then putting our spare tire up. After that, you're ready to test your hitch out. And that'll do it for a look and installation of the Curt class three trailer hitch on our 2022 Hyundai Palisade. Thanks for watching..


Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
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Joshua S
Employee Dustin K
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Dustin K
Employee Jonathan Y
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Jonathan Y
Employee Jacob T
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Jacob T
Employee Chris R
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Chris R
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
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David F
Employee Bradley B
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Bradley B

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