bing tracking image

Curt Trailer Hitch Installation - 2019 Subaru Forester

content loading

Customers compare C13409 to these similar products

Products Featured in this Video

How to Install the Curt Trailer Hitch on a 2019 Subaru Forester

Ryan: How's it going, Ryan here at Today on our 2019 Subaru Forester, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Curt Two Inch Trailer Hitch Receiver. Many Subaru owners plan on using their vehicles to do a little bit of everything, and this is going to work perfect for that. Since it is a two inch by two inch, your options, as far as accessories go, are going to be more or less endless. The hitch is going to give us some pretty good clearance. It's going to sit right behind the edge of our bumper.

So it's not going to be an eyesore, but it's going to give us more than enough room to be able to use those folding accessories without contacting the bumper. Pretty much the only thing you're going to be able to see is our receiver tube opening. We're also going to have this reinforced collar for extra strength. Now, it is going to use the standard size five eighths pin hole. Oh, keep in mind a pin and clip is not included, but if you need one you can find it here at Etrailer.The safety chain openings are very large, so you shouldn't have any problem using just about any size hook.

And they do sit quite a ways back, which gives us more than enough room. That way it doesn't interfere with our pin and clip. Now, if you're using your safety chains a lot, since they are tucked back quite a bit, you will have to reach a little bit further back there, but in my opinion, that trade off is well worth the cleaner look. And since it is a class three, it's going to have some pretty impressive weight capacities. The maximum gross tongue weight rating is going to be 525 pounds.

That's going to be the amount of weight pushing down on the hitch. So, that's more than enough to use just about any size bike rack or any cargo carrier. As far as the maximum gross trailer weight rating goes, that's going to be 3,500 pounds or the amount of weight pulling on the hitch.So that's the weight of your trailer plus anything you're going to have on it. Now, I do want to point out it is always a good idea to check with your Subaru's owner's manual to make sure your Forester can pull that much weight. If you do plan on doing a little bit of towing, I'd recommend picking up some trailer wiring.

That way the lights on your trailer will match lights on your car and you'll be safe and legal. Many of our Subaru customers use a variety of different types of hitch mounted accessories. Now, many of those accessories can have a little bit of rattle or play in the connection point here. If you're looking to eliminate that and keep a quiet ride, I'd suggest the Let's Go Aero anti-rattle hitch pin. Now I'm going to give you a couple of measurements. You're going to use these to help figure out which hitch mounted accessories to get.From the ground to the top inside edge of the receiver tube opening, it's going to be about 15 inches, and you're going to use that to figure out if you need to get a ball mount with either a drop or a rise. From the center of the hitch pin hole, to the edge of the rear bumper, that's going to be about four inches. And you're going to use that to figure out if any folding accessories you might have, can be stored in the upright position without contacting the bumper. And the good thing about this hitch, it's not very difficult at all to get installed. Speaking of which let's go ahead and put it on together now.To begin our installation, we're going to be removing this plastic panel here on the driver's side. The first fasteners that we're going to take out will be these push pin fasteners. There's going to be five of them, and we're going to have one, two, three, and then once you take this one out, the mud flap will come down. There'll be another one under there. Then we'll have one up on this side. Now, to get these out, we'll just take a flathead screwdriver and pry underneath the head of the fastener. Pull the head of it down, we can just pop it out. Now we're just going to have two more bolts, so I use a 10 millimeter to get those off. I actually found one more fastener here in the wheel well we'll need to take out. We're able to drop this down and put it off to the side.Now we're going to need to lower our exhaust, but before we do that, it's a good idea to take a strap and just run it from side to side. That way, when we do lower the exhaust, it'll have a little extra support. We're going to have a total of three rubber isolator hangers that we need to remove. We're going to have one right here on the side of the muffler. Now to get these off, it's a good idea to spray them down with some penetrating oil or some soapy water, or we can just take a pry bar and work off the isolator from the metal hanger. We're going to have another one here on the passenger side, towards the back of the muffler. We'll do that same technique to get it removed. Then if you follow our exhaust towards the front of the vehicle, we're going to have that last hanger right here. Now we can remove our heat shield above our muffler, and that's going to be held in place with four 10 millimeter bolts. You can just drop it down and set it off to the side.Now, if we come to our frame rail, we're going to have three rubber plugs that we need to take out. To get them out you can just take a Flathead. That'll pry underneath it and just pop them out like that. I do want to point out from this point on anything we do to one side, we're also going to do to the other. Now the instructions say they want us to enlarge this center hole to make it big enough to get our hardware into the frame rail. However, I found it a lot easier and a lot less material to remove. If you come back to this rubber plug, take that out, and you use this for the access hole since it's already quite large. Now, what we're going to do is open this up just a little bit, and I'm going to use a die grinder to do that. However, you could use a large drill bit or even a hand file.And we just seem to make it large enough to be able to easily fit our spacer block through as well as our bolt. Now we can use the fish wire technique to get our hardware into place. So we're going to take the coil then and starting with this hole closest to our back bumper, push it into the frame rail and push it all the way back. What we're trying to do is get that coil then to drop out of our access hole that we enlarged. Once it's like that, we're going to take a spacer block, slide that over. We're going to take our carriage bolt and thread that onto the fish wire. And we can grab the other end of the fish wire, feed our hardware up into the frame rail. Pull it down until we get that bolt to drop through. Now, I'm going to use that same technique to get that same hardware combination and these two remaining holes.With all of our hardware in place, since we won't be using our access hole anymore. What I like to do is just take some theater spray paint to help cover up that bare metal. Now, if you want to reinstall your heat shield, which is optional, you're going to have to drill a couple of holes. Well, if you look on the heat shield, there'll be two dimples, and we're going to use that as a template to drill those holes to the size specified in the instructions.Now we'll take our heat shield and re-install it. We will have to run our fish wires through the two holes that we drilled. We're able to push it into place. Now we're going to re-install it using the factory hardware that was originally holding it up with the exception of one bolt are not going to be putting this bolt right here, back in. Now with an extra set of hands, we can put our hitch into place. Go over your muffler. You're going to want to run our fish wires through the corresponding holes in the hitch. You can lift it up against the frame and make sure all our hardware drops out. Then you go ahead and remove from the pull wires and secure it using a flange nut, or you want to get one started on each side. That way, the hitch will support itself while we work on the rest of the hardware.Now we can secure the rest of our hardware. Now, if you're having a hard time getting the nuts started because the bolt wants to push up into the frame, what you can do is take a Flathead screwdriver and just apply a little bit of side pressure and that'll hold it steady so you can easily get the nuts started. With all of our hardware in place and hand tight, now we can snug it all down. Now we can use a torque wrench to tighten all of our hardware down to the amount specified in the instructions. Now we're able to raise our exhaust back into position, so we can just lift it up and we're going to work those isolators back on by hand. With the exhaust supporting itself we can remove our strap.Now we can re-install our underbody panel. We'll lift it up into place. Now I do want to point out it's going to get re-secured the exact same way. However, we're not going to be using this bolt here that secured this to the frame. We're only going to be using this one. And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the Curt Two Inch Trailer Hitch Receiver on our 2019 Subaru Forester..



This is a great video, all the installation details are there, good video framing and light. I would mention that the fishline comes with the hitch hardware, so no need to acquire that beforehand. This video is what made me buy from etrailer.

Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
Video by:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G

At we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.