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Curt Fifth Wheel Kit Installation - 2015 Ram 2500

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How to Install the Curt Fifth Wheel Kit on a 2015 Ram 2500


Today, on our 2015 Ram 2500, we'll be reviewing and installing the Curt custom fifth wheel install kit, part number C16427-204. Now, while it's not totally required, to make it easier to do the install, if your vehicle's equipped with a spare tire, we recommend to go ahead and lower and remove it. Now, to begin our install, we first need to locate the forward attachment points for our front brackets. These are weld nuts built into the frame by the manufacturer. Now, over time, these weld nuts are going to build up rust, dust, dirt and debris, so we're going to spray each one with a spray lubricant and then use our half inch nylon tube brush, part number 814092, to thoroughly clean out the threads. Then, I recommend to take one of the new 12 millimeter bolts and thread it into the weld nuts to make sure they're going to go nice and easily. Now, that we know that we've got both weld nuts cleaned out, let's go ahead and take a look at our attachment hardware. For the rear fastener, it'll be a 12 millimeter bolt but it's the shorter bolt, as our longer 12 millimeter bolt will go in the forward attachment point. Each of these bolts will get a conical tooth washer.

The teeth of the washer will face the bracket because it will go onto our bolt, through the bracket and into the weld nut. Here's what our forward bracket's going to look like. The one for the driver side is similar, only it faces the other direction. Now, we can put the bracket up in place, lining up the two pre-drilled holes with our attachment points in the frame. Note, for our forward attachment point, because of the indentation in the frame, we're going to add a spacer block that'll get sandwiched between the bracket and the frame. Let's go ahead and install our hardware to secure the bracket. Let's start with the rear fastener first.

I'm just going to install the fastener finger-tight at this time. We'll take our block, slide it between the bracket and the frame, holding it in place while we install the longer 12 millimeter bolt. Now, before I snug up my hardware to hold the bracket in place, we're going to go ahead and make sure that the bracket is slid all the way back to the hat channel, towards the rear of the vehicle. This will help to ensure that when we tighten down both front brackets, that they will be even with each other, being tight to the hat channel. Now, once I've got it pushed back, I'm just going to go ahead and snug it up to hold it in place. The reason we tighten it down to hold it in place is because we'll use the pre-drilled holes in the top of the bracket as our attachment points for our forward cross rail. Now, with the passenger side done, we need to move over to the driver side and repeat the same process.

The only exception is, we'll need to relocate the manufacturer's wiring and connectors here on the inner frame rail. We're just going to go ahead and pop them free at this time using a flat-blade screwdriver or an interior trim panel tool, so we can remove the push pin fasteners and gain some movement from our wiring and connectors. There, now we have plenty of room to get our bracket in place. Now, with our bracket to place, using a center punch, we're going to mark the hole. All right. Now, we're moving into the pickup bed, taking our cross rail, setting it in place over top our attachment points. Now, once you have the rail in place, you look down through the attachment points on the rail to make sure they line up with the center punches that we marked.

You can just see a little dimple coming up from the bottom of the truck to show our center punches. Now that we've verified our four attachment points, we'll go ahead and move the rail out of the way, move underneath the truck and remove the side brackets and drill out our holes. Quick tech tip: If you go ahead and drill out your eighth inch pilot hole from the marks that we made with our center punch, then remove the bracket, it can make it easier to identify. Then, once I have my pilot hole drilled out, I'll go ahead and remove the side bracket. Now, we'll go ahead and use our step bit process. We'll continue enlarging our drill bit size until we get up to our final size as per the instructions. All right. Now, with the holes drilled out through the pickup bed, we can go ahead and put the bracket back in place. Now, with the forward brackets back installed, our holes drilled out, we're ready to put our hardware in place to secure the front rail. We'll be using the half inch carriage bolt and spacer block. The spacer block will go around the pre-drilled holes and the carriage bolt will go down through the rail. Then, it'll go through the pickup bed, the bracket and underneath, we'll secure it with a half inch flange nut. Our U-shaped spacer blocks are put in place so that when we tighten down the rail it doesn't crush the bed corrugation. Now, we'll go over to the driver side and repeat the same process. We need to install the fasteners. That's going to be a half inch spacer block and you'll notice the offset hole is about the center of our spacer block, so it'll fit over the bolt and then we'll install our flange nut. Now, for our rear attachment point, you'll notice that our hole in our block is offset. That'll allow us to get around the hat channel and still go over the bolt and into position. Once we have the block on, we'll install our flange nut. Now, with our front brackets, rail and hardware installed, we need to set the rear rail. We're going to go ahead and set it in the approximate position and then use our fifth wheel assembly to guide it into place. Now that we are using our fifth wheel assembly to set the rear rail, we're going to go ahead and measure from the wheel well over to the edge of the rail and make sure it's even on both sides. To double check ourselves, we can even go to our front rail and make sure it's of equal distance from the edge of the wheel well over to the edge of the rail. Now, once we've verified that and we know our rear rail is square with the front rail by using our assembly and centered in the pickup bed by measuring, we can go ahead and drill out an eighth inch hole in row one on our rear rail. We'll now go ahead and take our eighth inch drill bit, find the center of our attachment point and drill down through the pickup bed. We'll go ahead and do this on both sides. Now, with the row one pre-drilled, we can see our pilot hole here at the bottom of the pickup bed. In order to get our bracket in place, we've got the manufacturer's wire that runs through here. We're going to go ahead and pull the fasteners out that secure it to the frame, then bring in the driver side bracket, line it up with our frame attachment points just like on our front brackets and make sure it lines up with our pre-drilled hole. All right. Now, with the driver side bracket held up to the frame and our attachment points, we know they line up, we'll go ahead and check the passenger side. Here, on the passenger side, we'll first need to remove the heat shield that went around the spare tire. There's a total of four fasteners. Two here on the frame and two on the cross tube. Once we move this out of the way, it'll make it easier to get to our attachment points for the rear bracket on the passenger side. Now, here on the passenger side, our bracket's a little smaller and will sit in position lining up with our attachment points and our pre-drilled hole. Now, once we verify that our brackets line up with our pre-drilled holes, we'll go ahead and take the fifth wheel assembly out of the way. Now, we'll need to go ahead and drill out our pilot hole for the second row. Note, I do like to stand on the rail to help hold it in position while we drill out these pilot holes. Find the center of our attachment point and use our eighth inch bit. Now, once we have all four pilot holes drilled, we'll go ahead and move the rail out of our way and use our step bit process again to drill them out to our final size. Now, once we have our holes enlarged in here in the pickup bed, we need to drill down through the hat channel so that we can get our tube spacers in. Here on the passenger side, we're just going to take the same final size as our pickup bed and go all the way down through the hat channel. On the driver side, we'll also drill down through the hat channel but then we'll move underneath and enlarge the hat channel enough that we can put the tube spacer up through the hat channel and then drop our carriage bolt down through the rail and through the tube spacer. Now, here on the bottom side of the vehicle, we've got our hole pre-drilled. We're going to go ahead and use a seven-eighths bit to open up large enough to get our tube spacer into position. Now, we'll only drill the enlarged hole through the hat channel, not through the pickup bed. Now, with our hole drilled out here on our driver side, we'll go ahead and put our bracket in place. Just like for our forward attachment points, we sprayed down the weld nuts and then used our tube brush to clean out the holes. Now, with our hole drilled out, we're ready to install the bracket. I'll go ahead and get my bracket into position, put the tube spacer up through our pre-drilled hole, get our bracket lined up here with our attachment points and install our hardware. We'll use the same hardware that we did for the rear attachment point on the front bracket, a 12 millimeter bolt and half inch conical tooth washer. We'll just install our fasteners finger-tight at this time. Now, on the passenger side, to get our tube spacer into the hat channel, we cannot drill it from the bottom as the frame is in the way. We'll need to feed the spacer into the hat channel, then line it up with our attachment point. We used a magnet to feed it into the channel, got ahold of it with our screwdriver, tilted it up into position and then lined it up with our pry bar. Now, here on the passenger side, we can set our bracket into place. We're just going to use the same 12 millimeter bolt and conical tooth washer as we did on the driver side and it threads into the weld nuts in the frame. Now, with both brackets in place, let's move back to the pickup bed. Now, for our rear rail, our forward carriage bolt's going to be the long carriage bolt that'll go down through the bed, through the tube spacer and then through the hat channel, where we'll then install some fasteners underneath. For the row number one, with our very rear edge of our rear rail, it's going to get a half inch carriage bolt going through the hat channel, then through the pickup bed and then the bracket. Keep in mind that these carriage bolts are the same on both sides. Now, with the rail in place, I'm going to go ahead and slide our U-shaped spacer under row number one and then drop in my carriage bolt. Then, here on row number two, I'll take the long carriage bolt, sending it down through the bed, through the tube spacer and the hat channel. Now, with our carriage bolts in place, we'll move underneath and install our hardware. Starting here on the passenger side, we're going to take our block, slide it onto the carriage bolt and then thread on our half inch flange nut. Note, if you put a little side pressure on your block, it can help to get the nut started without pushing your carriage bolt back up through the pickup bed. Now, with the hardware and rails in place, we're going to go ahead and set our fifth wheel back onto our rails and then start tightening down our hardware. We'll start with tightening down the fasteners that secure our cross rails to the brackets. Now, with the rail to the bracket fasteners tightened down, we'll go ahead and tighten down the bracket to frame fastener. Now, with all the hardware tightened down, we'll go ahead and torque to specifications as indicated in instructions. Now, that we know our rails are good and tight, we're going to go ahead and take our attachment out and set it aside. Next, we're going to install the center rail attachment point. On both the front rear rail, it's going to get a carriage bolt going down through the rail and through the pickup bed and then some fasteners underneath. We're going to install this on row one and four, so the closest to the cab of the truck and the closest to the tailgate. To start, we're going to go ahead and drill out a pilot hole and then we'll open up to the half inch size that's just large enough for our carriage bolt. Now, with our hole drilled out, we'll go ahead and take the U-shaped spacer and put it into position just like we did for our other attachment points that are in the bottom of the bed corrugation. Then, we'll take our carriage bolt and drop it down through the rail. I'll go ahead and repeat the same process for the front rail or the rail and row closest to the cab. Now, with the carriage bolt in place, we'll go ahead and move underneath, install the block and the flange nut to secure each carriage bolt. Now, once our block and flange nuts are in place, we'll go ahead and tighten them down. Once they're tightened down, we can go ahead and torque to specifications as indicated in the instructions. All right. Now, with our fifth wheel rails installed and secure, we'll go ahead and reinstall our heat shield and secure any wiring or anything else underneath. Now that our install is complete, we're ready to hit the road. That will do it for the install of our Curt custom fifth wheel install kit, part number C16427-204, on our 2015 Ram 2500.


Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
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Jacob T
Employee Kathleen M
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Kathleen M
Employee Chris R
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Chris R
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L

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