Curt EZr Double Lock Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2010 Ford F-250 and F-350 Super

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How to Install a Curt EZr Double Lock Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2010 Ford F-250 and F-3

Brian: How's it going Brian here at Today on our 2010 Ford F250, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Curt under bed double lock gooseneck trailer hitch with installation kit. The hitch is going to be completely mounted underneath the bed and this is what it's going to look like once it's installed. What I really like about this hitch is the fact that we are going to have dual locking pins, which not only means double the safety, but also double the strength. And since the hitch is mounted underneath the bed, it's going to free up all that space up top so it's going to come in handy whether you're at the job site, hauling supplies around, maybe throwing a couple of motorcycles in the bed or even taking your family on vacation, we're not going to lose any of this precious space.One of the other things I noticed right away that's different from many of the other goosenecks available is the safety chain loops. They're going to be spring loaded so they're not going to bounce around, but they're also going to be very thick and very dependable.

I really like how the ball's designed. Since it's keyed, it's only going to allow you to put it in one way. That way you're not going to have to worry about it rotating or anything like that. And when you're not using it, since it has a small handle here, instead of keeping it inside of your cab with it rolling around on your floor, you can flip it over and store it in your hitch. And just to help prevent any water or debris getting inside of here.

When we're not using it, they do provide us with the rubber cap to help keep it protected and in my opinion it looks pretty good too.Now the hitch is going to have a maximum gross towing weight rating of 30,000 pounds. That's going to be the amount of weight pulling on the hitch. That's the weight of your trailer plus anything you might have on it. It's also got to have a 7,500 pound vertical load limit and that's going to be the amount of weight pushing down on the hitch. Now it is always a good idea to check with your truck's owner's manual to make sure you can pull that much weight.

Now the ball itself is going to be two and five sixteenths of an inch and there is an adapter kit available that'll allow you to easily and quickly convert this into a fifth wheel. One of the other things I noticed about this is how easy our handle is to use. It's going to sit out a little further that way it's going to be really easy to find and grab onto, and when you pull it back it's going to be nice and smooth and it's going to be really easy to lock into place.I've had quite a bit of experience with goosenecks and some of the other styles you almost kind of have to fight that handle and really kind of work it into place to get it to lock. And whenever you're ready to use it, it's really easy. Grab it and turn it to the left a little bit and that'll hold your pins out, that way you're able to put your ball into place or flip it over.

And then once your ball is in place and you're ready to lock it, just grab it, pull back a little, let it slide back into position. I did notice too how well-built the hitch is. In my opinion, it's just as good as or if not better than many of the other ones out there. For our hitch being mounted underneath the bed, many of our customers said the install really wasn't as hard as they thought it would be.Speaking of which, let's go ahead and put it on together now. To begin your installation, you're first going to want to lower and remove your spare tire. It gives us a lot more room to work. What you would then do is peel off a heat shield that would be located right in this area above our rear axle. However, our customers is already missing, so we're going to go ahead and skip that step. Now we can take our rear cross arm and slide it into place under our truck bed. That way it'll rest on each frame rail on each side. Now the way that we know it's the rear is that we're going to want this angle here that's flat to face the bed of the truck or towards the rear of the truck.So the flat side with the holes on it we'll place towards the front of the truck. So what we're going to do is come here to this larger opening in the frame and start to work it through. Now if there ain't a whole lot of room here like we got, you can always try another spot as long as it's within this area here. Since that's a little tight, we'll move to the front of the truck and slide all the way across. Sometimes you can get lucky and get all the way across like this. Other times you may have to kind of get underneath the truck and kind of help work it over into position. Once we had it all the way across what we're going to do is push it as far back towards the rear of the truck as possible.Here's what our rear rail looks like when it's pushed all the way back. You can see the holes on this flat side are facing towards the front of the truck. We have it up in this position, the flat sided angle facing the bottom of the bed. On the passenger side, we are going to have this little shock mount, which that rail will need to slide over to get all the way back. And it can be a little tricky sometimes, a little tight fit, but what I like to do to help me is to take an adjustable wrench and when the angle is in this position and you're trying to work it over that shock, now what you can do is take your wrench and actually use this as leverage to kind of flip that up and that usually gives you more than enough room to lift it up and over that shock mount. That way we're able to push it as back as far as we can go.Now we can take our front cross arm and put that in a position. Now we'll know it's the front because it's flat angle side will be on top and facing towards the front of the truck and the side here that has our holes in it, those will be facing towards the back of the truck. And we're going to use that same technique to get it across frame rails. Just loosely install it for now. Make sure it's sitting on both frame rails. Right now we're not going to push this one back or anything. We're going to leave it just like this. Now we're going to take our center section and get this ready to put into place. So we're going to take our locator here. We're going to pop that into the hole. What I like to do is just use a piece of tape to kind of help hold it in place a little bit better.Now we can flip it over and identify which side you want our handle on. You know which side the handle is because there'll be a tab here where the handle will run through. And since we want it on the driver's side, I went ahead and just marked this side the driver's side just to avoid any confusion. Now what we can do is actually put in some hardware. That way it'll be easier to attach and get everything lined up to those cross beams. So what we're going to do is take our carriage bolts and on one side, it doesn't really matter, I'm going to use the side that's going to face the rear of the truck. So I will go in through this way. Take our carriage bolt and a retainer. We want to make sure that these tabs are facing away from the hitch. Try and get this threaded on and get it started a little bit.Once you have it started, what you can do is actually take one of the spacers for some of our hardware and kind of use that to help you push everything nice and tight. So it'll look like that, and I'll do that same thing for this hole here. Now we can put our center section in place, work it up over the exhaust, slide those bolts through this crossover and then we can secure them using a flange nut.Now what we're going to do is put in the rest of the hardware here. Then we're able to slide our front inaudible 00:09:21 forward and attach that to the center section as well. The hardware that we're going to use to completely secure our center section to our cross rails will be a carriage bolt and a flange nut. These carriage bolts will run from the inside in the center section and run out through our cross member and we can secure it with those flanges. That hardware setup is going to be the same for not only this rear rail but the front one as well.Go ahead and slide our cross rail. This is what it looks like with all of our hardware in place and it is important that you just have all these hand tight for now. Now we can go ahead and put on our side plates. We'll start with the driver's side. The way to identify the driver's side is this angle that drops down here. That'll be on the side closest to the front of the truck. The way this is going to work is it's going to rest in between our cross members. And this hole down here, that's going to line up with this hole in the frame.So we're going to hold this up against the frame in between our cross members and then loosely secure it into place. Now the first bolt ever to get put in will be through this hole. What we're going to do is take the very large carriage bolt and the large spacer block, we're to come from the inside of the frame and push this bolt through. Just reach right back there, slide it through. Now we can take our plate, slide it up, push our bolt through. We can loosely secure it with a flange nut.Now we're going to take our U bolt and attach that. Now this is going to go behind the frame rail and then come out through this hole and this hole. Now when you put this in, just make sure that there's not going to be any wiring or anything like that that would fall in between this edge of the bolt and the frame rail. So I went ahead and verified that we're clear back there, and slide it up and over. Once we have the U bolt coming through both holes in our side plate, we'll go ahead and loosely secure it using some flange nuts.Now we can attach our side plate to our cross members. What we're going to do is take a carriage bolt and a spacer block, and if you notice the hole on the spacer block will be offset closer to one edge. We want to make sure that the smaller edge is going to face up towards the bed of the truck. We'll take our bolt, run it through and then from the inside of our inaudible 00:12:48 plate, feed that bolt through our cross member and then loosely secure it with another flange nut. And I'll use that same hardware set up to this hole right here.With all of our hardware in place over here on the driver's side, the passenger side is going to install the exact same way. So you just repeat that process over there. Now before we tighten all of our hardware down, it's a good idea to make sure that everything is centered. So what I did was just took a measurement from one of these edges to our bed channel and compared it to the other side and I did that on both sides. So what I mean by that, I took a measurement from here to here as well as here to here. Same on the other side. If it's a little off, you're going to have to go ahead and slide it one way to make your adjustments and make sure everything's centered.Now we can tighten up our hardware and there is a particular pattern or order rather that we need to follow, and the bolts that we're going to tighten first are underneath the truck here that's connecting our center section to our cross members. Now we can go ahead and tighten down our side plates to the frame. So we're going to tighten down this large bolt as well as our U bolt nuts. Now for our U bolt nuts, we want to alternate when we tighten these down that way we run them down evenly. Now we're going to go ahead and tighten down our side plate bolts that connect to our cross members. So this one and this one.Now I'm going to use a torque wrench to torque all of our hardware down in that same order to the amount specified in our instructions. With everything torqued down, now we can come back underneath the truck to our center section. Now if we look up into the opening for our ball, we'll see that locator that we put in earlier. Now we're going to drill a small pilot hole through that small hole right there in the middle of the locator.While we're down here, we can go ahead and drill our pilot holes for our safety chain loops. We're going to be using the holes closest to the center and when we drill these pilot holes, we not only want to try to center it as best as we can in our holes, but we want to try to center it with the corrugation of our bed itself.With our pilot holes made, we can hop up here in the bed of the truck and drill them all out to the proper size. Now we're going to start with the large hole here in the center for our ball, we're going to use a hole saw to get that done. Now we're going to drill until we see that orange locator underneath and we want to be careful kind of when we get close, you just don't want to rip into it and shoot right through it and scratch up your hitch, so just be mindful of that when you're making this hole.Once our hole's cut we can pull out our locator. So I went ahead and used the hand file to the clean up any sharp edges. Now I'm going to use a vacuum to clean up all the metal shavings. It's a good idea to use a little spray paint to help protect this bare metal to help prevent any rust or corrosion. We also are going to have this chrome ring that simply bolts into place using the three provided screws.Now we can drill out our safety chain openings to the size specified in the instructions. Once your holes are made, you're going to want to grab one of the loops, push it through, and make sure you can pull it up and down easily. If it's a little tight like this one here, you can either bring it out just with a little larger bit or kind of just wiggle it out until it moves up and down freely. About like that is what we're looking for. Once we have one side done, we go ahead and drill the other ones out.I went ahead and vacuumed everything up. And again, I'll use some spray paint. I'll protect that bare metal. Then we'll go ahead and take our safety chain hooks, drop them down through the bed. You're on the bottom side of the truck. We can now secure our safety chain hooks. And what we're going to do is take a flat washer, take our spray and put that over and take another flat washer. Take our nylon lock nut, just thread that on hand tight. Do that same thing for this one lock nut. We're going to tighten these down until they are flush with the end of the bolt.Now I'm just going to repeat that same process for our other safety chain. And we can take our locking pin and get that set up. So if you turn it on this side you're going to notice one end is going to have an open hole and we're going to make sure that is facing up. That way we can connect our handle to it. Go ahead and just slide it in place. Now what we can do is take our handle and from the outside in our wheel well, we're going to go ahead and slide that all the way through, line it up in this notch just like that.Now from here we can take a washer, slide that over. We're going to take our spring and then push our handle all the way through. And if you notice on the handle at the end, there's going to be a hole. We're going to line that hole up with the hole on our pin. We're going to be able to take our bolt, run that through. We'll go ahead and tighten it down.And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the Curt double lock under bed gooseneck trailer hitch with custom installation kit on our 2010 Ford F250.

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