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Curt Fifth Wheel Kit Installation - 2016 Ram 2500

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How to Install the Curt Fifth Wheel Kit on a 2016 Ram 2500


Today on our 2016 Ram 2500 we're going to be taking a look at the CURT custom fifth wheel installation kit, part number C16427-204. Here's what these rails are going to look like once they're installed in the truck. They're going to give us a great mounting point for our fifth wheel hitch or gooseneck adapter. They have a nice carbide finish which is going to resist rust and corrosion to help provide you a nice, long, durable life. With the multiple mounting locations for a fifth wheel hitch, it's going to work with other manufacturers' hitches as well, like Reese, Husky, Valley, or Draw-Tite. What's really nice about this rail kit is it uses existing weld nuts in the frame in order to mount the frame brackets.

Now let's go ahead and show you how to install it. First thing we did to begin the installation is we went ahead and removed the spare tire to make it easier to see and work. Next we'll use a 10mm socket to remove our heat shield. There's going to be two 10mm bolts that are going to go up into the back side of this crossmember. Then on the inside of our passenger frame rail there's going to be two more of those 10mm bolts to hold this in place. Next thing, on the inside of the driver side frame rail just at the rear of the gas attack, we've got these vacuum lines, brake lines, and wires.

We're going to need to pop those out so that we'll be able to get our frame bracket in behind those. You can take a flat head screwdriver, or a trim panel tool if you have one, and just pry them outwards at each connection point in order to get them loose. Now where our frame brackets are going to go we'll need to clean out the threads that are in those weld nuts. We can take a little bit of spray lubricant, spray it in there. Then we can use a tube brush in order to clean that out. If you need one of these tube brushes, you can get that on our site, part number 814092.

We're going to do that for the weld nuts at all four mounting bracket locations. Now we can take our front brackets and put them up into place. Then we'll use our 12mm bolt with 1/2" conical tooth washer with the teeth facing in towards the bracket. We'll put them in through the holes and begin threading them into the weld nuts that are in the frame. On these front brackets, for the front hole there's this spacer block that we'll need to put behind it in order to fill the gap because the frame bends. We'll need to put that just behind.

Then because of that, we'll need to use a longer 12mm bolt for the front bolt hole location. As you snug these down, you want to make sure that this bracket is all the way as far as you can against the front side of this hat channel. You want to get those bolts just tight enough that it's going to hold that bracket in place. Then we'll repeat that process for the other side. Now we can put our rear brackets up into place. Over here on the driver side we'll need to pop our wire loom loose so that we can get our bracket into place. Now we'll take a center punch, and on our front brackets, right in the center of each hole on the underside of the bed, we're going to put a center punch, so that way, when we go up top, we can make sure that all the indents for the center punches line up with the holes in the rail. Then we'll do the same thing on the other side. Once we've verified up top that our center punch marks line up on our rail, we can come underneath and begin drilling out our holes. We'll do that same thing for the other side. Once we've got our holes drilled out, we'll go ahead and drill them out to the size indicated in the instructions. I'll continue stepping up drill bit sizes until I've reached that final size. Now I've got my holes drill out to size. I'll lay my rail back down and get it lined up with those holes and I'll drop carriage bolts down through there. With the carriage bolt down through each one I'll be able to mark and drill my location for the front hole on the rail here in the center. Now I'll remove the rail and drill it out the same way I did the other four holes. Now with all the holes drilled out for my front rail, I'm going to take some black spray paint and just spray paint just inside those holes to prevent rust in the bed. Now we can put our mounting rail back down. Then through all five of our holes now we'll drop our carriage bolts through. In order to prevent crushing of the corrugation in the bed, we're going to use these supplied u-shaped washers. Because the bolts go through the low point in the corrugation, we're going to put these in the top side of the bed. You'll just need to slide it around the carriage bolt. Then it will be the same for the rest of our carriage bolts. Now on the underside we'll loosely install our square-holed spacer blocks and our 1/2" flange nuts. Then we'll do that same thing for the rest of our carriage bolts on this rail. Then in order to check the fitment and proper positioning for our rear rail we'll want to put our hitch into place. With our hitch in place, now we'll measure between the ends of our rear rail to the sides of the bed to make sure that it's centered. With our rear rail positioned properly, we'll go on our inner holes here and use our center punch to mark the bed and put a little indentation so then we can go underneath and check to make sure that it's lined up with the bracket on the underside. Now on the underside here we can check to make sure that our indentation from our center punch is lined up properly with the hole for our bracket. If it's not, you can adjust this bracket a little bit because the holes for these bolts are slotted, so you can shift it a little bit if absolutely necessary. Now in order to drill out the holes, we can move our hitch and our rear rail. Now the front holes on this rear rail, you're going to have to drill all the way down through the hat channel, so you'll drill through the bed surface and then down through the hat channel. Once we've got them all drilled out, we'll use some black spray paint to spray paint the edge of the holes that we just drilled, the same way we did for the front rail. Now back on this driver side rear bracket we're going to need to take this bracket back off so that this hole to the hat channel, we can drill that out in order to get that pipe spacer up in there. Now we're going to drill this out to the size indicated in the instructions. Then we'll put a little bit of spray paint on this as well. Now we're going to put our rail back down into place. Then we'll begin dropping our carriage bolts through. Now for this rear row of bolts we'll be using all the shorter carriage bolts. But then for the two holes in our front row on the driver side we're going to be using the 4"-long carriage bolt. We'll drop that down through. Then over on our passenger side we'll be using this hex bolt with flat washer. What we'll need to do before we can put it down through there into place is we're going to need to get that pipe spacer into position. We'll do that once we get all these carriage bolts started underneath. Now we can put our bracket back up into place. As we put our bracket back up, we'll want to take our pipe spacer and slide it up into our hat channel around our carriage bolt. Then once we've got it up, we can take a square-holed spacer and flange nut and get that started to hold it up into position. Then for our other carriage bolt, spacer block and flange nut. Then we can get our 12mm bolt started again going into the frame. Then we can get our spacer block and flange nut started on our center carriage bolt, and then our carriage bolt that comes down through the bracket on the passenger side. Now we're going to need to feed our pipe spacer into position through the edge of the hat channel here. I have to put it up and work it over. I'm going to use a magnet to help work it over that way so I don't lose control. Then once I get it lined up I'll use a screwdriver to put it down through and secure it in place so that I can go back and put the bolt through. Now that we've got the bolt down through, what we'll need to do is put on one of our spacer blocks. Then we've got our nut on the bolt. Now we'll put our hitch back in. Once you've got everything in place, before we begin tightening, we'll want to be sure to put these u-shaped spacers underneath each bolt in our rear rail. Now we'll take a 3/4" socket and begin tightening up the nuts on the carriage bolts that connect the mounting rails to our frame brackets. Then we'll tighten up the center bolts on the mounting rails. Then we'll use the 3/4" socket to begin tightening the 12mm bolts holding our frame brackets to the frame. Now we'll go in that same order and torque them to the specifications listed in the instructions. Now on the inside of the driver's frame rail we'll need to make sure to clip back as much of this loom and lines as we can that we took off. Then we'll reinstall our spare tire heat shield. Then we'll replace our spare tire. That's going to complete our look at and installation of the CURT custom fifth wheel installation kit, part number C16427-204, on our 2016 Ram 2500.


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