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Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Kit Installation - 2008 Ford F-250

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How to Install the Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Kit on a 2008 Ford F-250

Today, on our 2008 Ford F-250, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Installation Kit, part number C16448-204. Now here's what they look like once they're installed. They've got this nice black carbide finish that's going to match your Curt Q5 Fifth Wheel Hitch. These are also compatible with Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch, Reese, Valley, and Husky fifth wheel hitches. Now with the use of our custom brackets, it's going to cut down on our installation time over a universal kit because everything's going to line up with some pre-drilled holes in your frame. Some vehicles do not have the pre-drilled holes, but most of them do. Now, another nice feature about these side plates is the bolts that come through the floor are actually on the outside of the frame rail, where on some of our fifth wheel hitches, they're going to be on the inside and a lot harder to torque.

This is going to make these a lot easier and quicker to install. Now let's go ahead and show you how easy they are to install. We want to measure from the back edge of the bed to the front edge of our rail. Then our next step is going to be to center it in between our bed rails. Once we have it where we want it in our location, we're going to take an 1/8 inch bit, we're going to drill down through the back here.

We're going to be using the outward most holes. We'll go ahead and drill two small pilot holes on each side, then we're going to set the side rails in place and make sure everything's going to line up. Once we have all those holes marked and slide the rail out of the way, then we'll drill them out the rest of the way. Now we're going to take our side plate. You can tell which is the driver's side. It's going to have one tab in the front, two in the rear.

We went ahead and put our drill bit down through the hole. Now we're going to set this up into place and take one of the 5/8 bolts that came with our kit and set our plate into place and just temporarily put the bolt and the nut in here to hold up our side plate. We'll do this for both sides. What we're looking for is for our drill bit to be in the center of that hole. That way we know we've got it lined up properly. Now our next step after we've made sure that it's going to line up with our brackets is we're going to drill out our holes to 9/16 using a step bit.

We're going to install these 1/2 inch by 2 inch carriage bolts. They're going to drop down through. Since ours is going to land on top of this bed rail, we won't be needing to put any kind of spacers in the top side, but we're going to have some spacers that go on the bottom side. Let's go ahead and drill out those holes. After we have our plate laid back in place, we're going to install all of our bolts. Now we can go to the bottom side and install our spacers and our nuts. For our instructions do not tell you this part, but you're going to want to . This block with the spacer's going to go in here, in the bed rib, but it'll have to slide in between this hatch handle on the bed, so when we tighten it up, it's not going to crush it down. I went ahead and took the bolts back out. I'm going to take a pry bar. We just going to go ahead and pry this down, get us some room so we can slide this spacer up in here. Now we can tap it in with a hammer. You want to just get it so that the U-shape part of the block is going to allow the bolt to drop down through. We're going to thing for the same on all of our hatch handle brackets. After we put this bolt up in here, it's going to be kind of hard to get this back one spread down, so we're going to go ahead and do that before we put the rear one in place. It's okay it's going to be bent down a little bit, so as we tighten it up, it's going to suck it back up in there and straighten it out. Now we can go ahead and drop our bolts back down through. Now our rear inaudible 00:05:10 hull here is going to get the 2 inch wide spacer. Slide that up on there. Now on the front one we're going to have a 1 inch wide square spacer followed by a flange nut. Now we've gone ahead and set our second rail into place making sure that it still slides up and down easily and that we have it equal on both sides. I'm going to go ahead and mark some pilot holes and go through the bracket on this one as well. Now we can take and enlarge our holes out to the 9/16 hole that we had used in the front. Now that we have all of your holes drilled out, we'll clean it up and we can set our bar . our rail into place. Now we've gone ahead and set our rail back in and set our hitch on top of it to make sure everything's lined up properly. We drop our bolts in. Want to make sure it still moves easily up and down out of our rails, then we can go to the bottom side and attach our hardware. Now we can take our larger blocks and put them into place and our flange nut. Then we'll take a 3/4 inch socket and we're going to run these all down and snug them up to the bed. We can go ahead and remove this 5/8 bolt that we put in here earlier. It's not going to stay there. Now our last step's going to be to put our center bolts in. You have one on the front rail and one on the rear. They're going to go right in the center here, on the outside and now I'm going to go towards the front of the vehicle. We'll go ahead and drill those out to our 9/16 hole. Clean that inaudible 00:07:30 and then we can drop our bolts down through. Now we'll take our last 2 inch long, 1/2 inch carriage bolts and drop those down through our bed. We'll go to the bottom side and then put on our hardware. Now we ought to go ahead and bend down the hatch handle on this center bolt. This is where inaudible 00:07:52 on the sides. We'll take our U-shaped block and to place it in there. It's going to take up our space. Then we'll put this larger block over top of that. Then we can run it down. You want to hold that U-shaped block in place until we get it tightened down. Now we'll repeat that process for the front one as well. Now we've gone ahead and tightened these down. We fold our plate up, tight against the bottom of the floor. We're going to drill out this one to a 9/16 hole through our 1/2 carriage bolt and the one here in the rear, we're going to drill out to 5/8. We'll go ahead and start with our 1/2 inch . or our 9/16 bit. We've already gone and checked. There's nothing on the back side, which definitely on the rear one, we're going to have a wiring harness in the way, so we're going to have to move that one. Now you can see on the driver's side, our hole is going to be unobstructed, so we're going to take our shorter inch and a quarter carriage bolt with a large block and place it through the hole, but on the other side, we're going to use a flange nut. Now we can go ahead and run down our carriage bolt. Now we'll move on the other side where we've already drilled the hole in the front. We're going to take our supplied fish wire, we're going to put it through the hole, and we're going to try and feed it up on the top side of our shock bracket where we can access it to be able to put on our block and our carriage bolt. Place on our block, followed by your inch and a quarter long, 1/2 inch carriage bolt, and we're going to tuck it up in here behind our shock tower. Then we're going to fish it through the outside of the frame now. There's room enough to hold your finger on the backside to hold it there in place. We'll bring that out and then they can run that bolt down as well. We're using a 9/16 on those also. Now we're going to have this wiring harness here. It's going to be attached by a clip. Sometimes the clip will come out and sometimes it'll break. We're going to take that wire and we're going to put a bungee cord on it and pull it down. Keep it out of the way as we drill our hole. Now we're going to take our 5/8 drill bit and we're going to mark the hole, then we'll take a smaller bit and we can make a pilot hole and work our way up. Now we're going to take this 1/2 inch thick spacer block and our 5/8 bolt and we're going to put it through the hole that we drilled in the frame. On the outside, we're going to put a flange nut . 5/8 flange nut. Now we can go ahead and run that down. We're using a 24mm socket. We used the torque specification listed in our instructions. We're going to start with the ones that go through our bracket. Now we'll repeat this process for the other side. Now the last ones we'll have to tighten will be the two center bolts on our rail. Now we can move on to our side plates. We'll tighten up the two 1/2 inch. We'll do that from both sides. Then we're going to come back and tighten up our 5/8 bolts. You're going to have to hold the back side with a wrench. We've gone ahead and taken off our bungee strap, placed our wire back in, and reattached it. Now it's going to be out of the way and it's not going to be harmed by our new fifth wheel rails. That's going to do it for our look at and install of the Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Installation Kit, part number C16448-204, on our 2008 Ford F-250.

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Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Andrew S
Test Fit:
Andrew S

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