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Curt Fifth Wheel Installation Kit Installation - 2014 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

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How to Install the Curt Fifth Wheel Installation Kit on a 2014 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

Today on our 2014 Chevrolet Silverado 2500, we're going to be showing you how to install the CURT Custom Fit, Fifth Wheel Rail Installation Kit with a carbide finish. Part number is C16411-204. Now, this is what our rails are going to look like in the bed of our truck after your installation. As you can see, they're going to provide a very nice attachment point for your in-bed styler, your above-bed fifth wheel hitches. These work out really good with just about every manufacturer. Of course the CURT but also your BMW, your Draw-Tite, the Reese, the Valley. It's going to cover the gamut.

Now, we do have three with options available on our rails depending on the style of fifth wheel hitch that you plan on using. It's going to be about 10, roughly 20 and a half, and then about 29 inches center to center as they come out. These are going to be your common widths for the different capacities of fifth wheels that will drop right down in. Then we'll have the oblong holes here. Just slide your pin through and clip them on each side.

Be in there nice and securely. Now, off the bed of the truck itself, we're looking at about one inch, right in that range, that you're going to have these sticking up and over. The nice thing about that is when not in use, you can pull your fifth wheel out, so you don't have to permanently mount it in here and that'll allow you for access and use of your bed. If you really wanted to alleviate this completely, you can actually just cut plywood inserts that would be on a 3/4 inch sheet of plywood or so, where they'd be about even with the top of our rails here. Then just put a rubber mat right over the top of it, so when you need them, you can get in there, they'll be available to you, and if you require that very flat floor, it's not a terribly involved process to get it that way if you'd like. You'll see the custom fit brackets here are designed to fit right into already existing holes in the vehicle's frame, so we're not making any major frame modifications or anything like that. These are a lot better designed in the universal fit kits.

There's sometimes drilling and welding and a lot of bolting and kind of customization that comes there, where with this, you have a very simple, very straightforward side plate you'll put on. Use the existing holes to bolt it in place. It's got a nice finish to it and it offers us a nice, clean look. Now, the first thing we need to do to begin our installation is get our forward rail position. In our instructions, we're going to find the measurements and they're different whether you have a short box or a long box. Go according to the instructions.

You want to measure from the rear lip of the bed to the back side of your rail. Now we also need to center our rail from side-to-side here. Now we need to take our center punch and we want to mark the center of each of these hole locations that we're going to be using. There's five on each rail. For the forward rail, we're using the four all the way out here on the outside and we're going to use the one in the middle closest to the rear of the vehicle. We kind of want to anchor our rail down so it's not going to move. Then we'll start marking the center of each of those holes with the center punch. One of the holes that we center punched, we want to drill out a 1/8 inch hole and we'll verify that they're in the right location with our side plates. Now we're ready to temporarily mock-up our side plate. This is going to be the driver's side that we're going to mock. You'll have the thicker flange in the rear that has the two holes and it's going to be a little bit thinner towards the front and they're going to hang out over the frame rail. We're going to line up our two upper holes, one here and here, with the two holes that are on our frame rail. Just like that. We just want to confirm that the hole we drilled lines up with the holes that are in there. Bracket there, the side plate. Looks like those are fine, so we'll drill out all five of them, check it one more time, and then get those enlarged. Now with those holes confirmed, we're ready to use a step drill bit. We're going to enlarge these to 9/16 of an inch. Now, it's time for us to fish wire our larger carriage bolt and spacer blocks into the frame rail. We're going to be using this whole location here and this whole location here. You can see we've got a pull wire to do that. What we want to do is start by pushing our pull wire into the frame rail, and we're going to direct it to a hole that's located about right here. It's kind of a round-shaped hole, maybe slightly oval-shaped hole, and we want that pull wire to come out of that hole. Once we've got that through there, we're going to slide on one of our spacer blocks and thread on that carriage bolt. We'll pop our spacer block in the hole and then if we start pulling on that pull wire, we'll pull that into the frame rail, and then right out of that hole location. We're going to do the same thing for that forward hole as well. We'll go though that same hole. We'll bring our side plate up and bring our pull wires through the upper hole location, and just guide our side plate on. Back that pull wire off. We'll take one of our flange nuts, just going to run that on hand tight for now. You still want to have a little bit of wiggle room there. Do the same thing on our front location. Now our next step's going to be to get our forward rail in position, here. What we're going to do on the lower portions of the bed, we're going to put in these u-shaped spacers. That gives us metal-to-metal contact all the way through the length of our bolt. We're not going to have to worry about crushing the bed. Now on the middle one, that's on the high side, so we don't have to worry about that. We're going to be putting one of those down below. Just want to get that set down right on top. Now at that point, we're going to take our 1/2 inch carriage bolts. You got probably a total of 10 of those in the kit, little bit smaller than the ones we used for the side plates. Just going to slide in. We want to make sure those u-shaped spacers fully engage them there. Now we'll head underneath and get our hardware put in place. Now for the middle one here, we're going to put the u-shaped spacer on the bottom like we talked about. We've also got a square hole spacer. This is larger than the ones that went in the frame rail, although it does have a smaller hole, and this is going to go in the bottom of every carriage bolt that we put in front and rear rail. We want that to go on the bottom and we'll finish it up with our flange nut. We'll do that for our other four locations. We'll have two on the outside, both sides. Now to determine the position for our rear rail, we need to put our preferably unassembled fifth wheel, either sliders or arms, in, want them in the correct position in the front, and we want to make sure that we've got that pushed as far forward as possible. We're going to bring our rear rail in and want to line it up with that accessory, the tab stick down right here, and then we'll shove that rail as far forward as we can. Now, if you're going to be using multiple accessories in your fifth wheel rails, you want to try them all out, make sure they're going to work. Once we've got that moved all the way forward, it's time for us to center that side-to-side in our bed just like we did that forward rail. All right, now we're ready to center punch our holes for this rail. Remember, we want to use the second from the outside hole set here, and we'll be doing the same hole in the rear there. We'll move that rail out of the way, then get those holes drilled and follow the exact same procedure that we used for the front rail. All right, now we'll go through and get our carriage bolts placed through. Since the bolts all go through the high side of the bed, we're not going to have to worry about those u-shaped spacers on the top. Those'll be going in on the bottom. All right, now to make our hardware here in the rear a little easier to get to, we're going to be pulling down this spare tire heat shield. You can see we've already removed the spare tire. That's just typically something we always do to make it easier to see on camera, but this is also going to help you out in your installation. Now, for pulling down this heat shield, we've got two 13 millimeter bolts. Just set these aside so we can put them back in later. I'm also going to be pulling out five of the bolts that hold up this upper heat shield. Where this heat shield is, there's a tab that bends down. Normally it looks like that. You can see I've had to bend it just to get my nut started up there. What I'm going to do is just trim that off and come right down that line, there. Just get rid of it. That way, we can actually get our wrench in there and actually have a chance of tightening down our bolts. All right, now with that out of the way, it's time to start snugging down all of our hardware. If you look in your instructions, it's going to give you your torque specifications. Want to be sure you get all of your hardware torqued down appropriately. Now we're ready to torque down the main bolts here on our side plates. We want to do this on both sides and again, these torque specifications are in the instructions for you. All right, now we can get our heat shield put back up into position here. Remember we had the two bolts we removed. We just want to get those back into place. With everything back in place, that's going to complete our installation of the CURT Custom Fifth Wheel Rail Installation Kit, part number C16411-204 on our 2014 Chevrolet Silverado 2500.

Cody G.


This was by far the best installation video for this kit. The close ups of the frame holes and the explanation were clear and very easy to understand. Keep the great work.

Etrailer Expert

Chris R.


I'm really glad we could help! Thanks so much for the kind words.

Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
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Employee Shane H
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Employee Jonathan Y
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Employee Jeff D
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Joshua S
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Jacob T
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Dustin K
Employee Chris R
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Chris R
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Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
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