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Curt Double Lock, Flip and Store Gooseneck Hitch Installation - 2005 Ford F-250

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How to Install the Curt Double Lock, Flip and Store Gooseneck Hitch on a 2005 Ford F-250

Today on our 2005 Ford F-250 we'll be having a look at and installing the Curt Double Lock Flip and Store Under Bed Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit. Part number C60720. All right here's what it looks like installed underneath the bed. There's a few key features here that I'd like to point out before we look inside the bed. First off is our double pin locking mechanism to secure our ball. This is a nice feature over some other gooseneck hitches which only have a single pin, giving a little more strength and security to our ball.

Also underneath, we have our spring loaded safety chain loops. These are nice because when we're not using our safety chain loops they'll snap back down, giving us full access to our truck bed. Now here's what it looks like in the bed. See we have our nice easy-to-use, spring loaded safety chain loops, and then we have our ball. There's a key in our ball right here on the side, so you can only install it one way, and that ensures that your pins line up. So we'll just drop that down in place, and once we release our handle on the driver's side wheel well, the ball will be secured into place.

When we're ready to flip it over to the stored position, we can pull the handle again, lift the ball out. On the bottom of our ball here, we have this nice grip to hold on to. We can drop it down into place. Also, we have this nice dust cover here which will protect our ball and keep any dirt and debris from getting down inside when we're not towing our trailer. With our classic bedliner in our truck cut out, everything is nice and trimmed out underneath and nothing sticks out above the bedliner.

So we don't have to worry about losing any of our valuable bed space. Now one of my favorite things about this hitch is that Curt does offer a fifth wheel adapter as part number C16210. That'll give you the ability to not only tow a gooseneck trailer, but a fifth wheel trailer as well. Now if you find that your turning radius is a little close or tight, and that your trailer is too close to the cab of your truck, you can also get an offset hitch ball as part number C602. Now those accessories that are available for this gooseneck are one of the nice things that sets it apart from other gooseneck hitches on the market. Now in order to operate our gooseneck, we have this handle on the driver's side wheel well. We pull it out towards us, turn it clockwise, and it'll lock it open.

That way, you only need one person to flip your ball from the stored position over to the towing position or vice versa. When you're ready to lock it into place, just turn it counterclockwise and release it. It's spring loaded and will lock your ball into place. Now that we've gone over some of the features of our Curt under bed gooseneck, we'll show you how to get installed. All right, at this point, if your truck is equipped with a plastic bedliner, it's highly recommended to remove it so you can get an accurate measurement in the center of your bed for where you need to drill your holes. Once you have the hole drilled in the bed itself, you can replace the bedliner and then drill through it underneath, and everything will line up great. We've already taken ours out, so we'll go ahead and make a measurement from the end of the bed, not the end of the tailgate, and mark it appropriately according to the instructions. Now we'll drill a pilot hole, making sure it's centered. Okay, now we'll take our hole saw, the appropriate size is indicated in the instructions, and make our cut. All right, if we have any rough edges round our cut, take a file and deburr them. We'll now take some spray paint and of along the edge of our cut just to help prevent rusting. Now you don't have to do this, but for ease of installation purposes we've removed our spare tire here, so you can get a better idea of what's going on underneath. Gives you a little bit more room to work too. Now, we're underneath the vehicle here. We've already put back in our bedliner. We have our hole in our bed here. We can use this as a guide to drill through our bedliner so our hole match up perfectly and are in the right spot. Okay, we'll take our hole saw again, go through our bedliner. All right, while we're still underneath our truck, we can take our heat shield here above our exhaust and remove it. It's just a piece of foam, basically. All right, now on diesel trucks, we need to lower our exhaust. We'll start at the tail pipe section here. There's a 13 millimeter bolt right at the side of the frame. We'll remove that bolt. All right. That gives a little bit more room. We'll go further up and remove some more hangers to give us some more room too. All right, now we have two more exhaust hanger right at the rear of our muffler, on on each side. We'll spray them down with some lubricant so they'll slide off a little bit easier. Now we use a pry bar. Okay, now to the front of our muffler, there are two 13 millimeter nuts which hold on another exhaust hanger. We'll remove these nuts. Okay, now on our driver's side wheel well, we measured back accordingly from the front cross member here of our bed support, and made a mark where we're going to cut out in our bed in order to slide our rails into place. Okay, with it cut most of the way, we can grab a pair of pliers and just twist it off. Okay. Now we'll take our rear cross arm. It's identified as the one that has three, here's one, two and three, notches cut into it. The side with two notches on it will be the passenger side, and we'll want to orient it so that these holes right here face towards the front of the truck. It'll be sitting like this once it's installed all the way. So we'll slide it in position. Okay, so we'll slide it over our shock bracket like so, make sure our notch is all the way over our shock tower here, and we'll slide it back past it with a pry bar. Okay, once with have cleared our shock mount, our bracket falls down in place and will slide easily towards the back of the truck. Okay, with our rear rail in place we'll now take our front rail. We'll want this center section here with the holes in it facing towards the rear of the truck, with the angle facing towards the front. So we'll slide it around our shock bracket, slide it forward and slide it down, making sure it is behind our shock bracket. Now we'll take our C bracket here, the driver's side, wrap it around our frame, and slide it up and over. Ill do the same on the passenger side. Okay, now we'll take our frame bracket here, slide it between our frame and our U bracket that we installed earlier, make sure the stud goes through the hole. All right. We'll do the same process on our passenger side. Okay, with our stud through the plate, we'll secure it with a 1/2 inch flange nut. We're just going to leave all of our hardware loose for right now, just this will keep it from falling down. And everything we're doing on this side we'll repeat on the passenger side. Okay, on the inside of our driver's side frame rail now, we'll grab this wiring harness and unclip it from this clip right here. So I'm just going to use a trim panel too to make it easier. okay, with it unclipped, we'll just kind of pull it our of the way a little bit right here. We have access to our hole for our hardware to come through now. Okay, now we'll take a 3/4 inch bolt, our flat washer, and we'll stick it through this hole here through our frame. We'll put on a flange nut on the other side. All right, now we can place in our hardware in our front rail. That'll secure our center section to it. Use our carriage bolts, slide them in place. We'll just do two right now, the ones closest to the hole. Then we'll have our flange nuts that we use to secure it once we raise it in position. All right now on our particular year truck, we need to make sure the center section here, that the offset is towards the front of the cab. So I'll raise it on up, get our nut started. All right now we'll push up on our center section, make sure it goes into the hole, and install two bolts in our rear, put our flange nuts on. All right now we'll do the same thing for our other four holes. Okay, now we'll take a 1/2 inch bolt, conical tooth washer with the teeth facing away from the bolt head, and put our clamp to our side plate, and we'll thread on our flange nut. We'll do the same on the other side. Now we'll take our carriage bolt here and install it through our side plate into our cross rail. May need to take this nut off in order to get a little bit more room in order to slide the bolt through. Bolt in place, we can reinstall the nut. Now we'll place a nut on the carriage bolt. We'll do the same for our back rail. Same process for the other side. Okay, now we'll tighten down our center section to our rails. Okay, now we'll tighten down our frame brackets. Now we'll tighten down our bolts here that do our C clamp to the frame. Now we'll tighten down our cross members to our side plates. Okay, now we'll torque all of our hardware to the amount specified in the instructions. We'll do our center section of rail first. Okay, now we'll go back the torquing our frame brackets to the truck. Okay, now we'll torque our large bolts. Okay, now we'll torque our rails to our frame bracket. Okay, now we need to drill out our safety chain loop attachment points. We use the pilot hole, making sure that we go through the area where our bed is closest to the gooseneck head, so as to be down low. In our case, it's the outermost holes. We'll do the same on the other side. Okay, you can see where our pilot holes came through our bedliner. Now because we want to have this in the recessed section of our bed, our holes come through a raised section. We're going to cut this section out of our bedliner to give us a little more room to work with. So we just have these centered over the holes. We'll use a rotary tool. Make a notch, then we'll just cut it down the rest of the way. Okay, now we'll just pry out the section that we cut. Okay, with that section removed, we'll now drill out our holes all the way through to the final size. Okay, with our U bolt now able to go through there nice and smoothly, we'll take some spray paint and no along the edges so we don't have to worry about rust, like we did over our hole for the gooseneck head itself. We'll repeat the same process for the other side. Okay, with both of our holes drilled and our bedliner cut out, we'll drop down U bolts now. Okay, now underneath our truck we'll place on a flat washer, followed by a spring, followed by another flat washer, followed by a nylon lock nut. We'll do the same for the other three sections. So now we'll tighten them so our lock nut is flush with the bottom of our U bolt. That's flush. All right, we repeated the same process for the other U bolt. As you can see, all of our nuts are flush. Take our double lock pin, the hole will face towards the top, slide it into place on the driver's side of our center section. Now we'll take our handle, we'll slide it over our frame and through the hole, get it in position. We'll place on our two washers and our spring. We'll secure the handle to the pin mechanism with the included bolt. That'll go all the way through, and then we'll put our nut on the other side of the bolt. Now we'll tighten it down until it's snug. Now, since our truck's a diesel we need to relocate our tailpipe using this provided bracket. We'll put existing bolt that was there through the hole. Now we'll slide another carriage bolt through the square hole here, and we'll go on the other side and attach the nut to both of the bolts. Start with the speed nut that was on the bottom bolt that was originally in place. Thread that on, get it started, and we'll do our carriage bolt on top of that. Snug down both of our bolts now. Now we'll tighten down the bolt that we previously removed. Now we'll slide another carriage bolt through the bracket and raise our exhaust back up onto it. And put a flange nut on it and tighten it down. Okay, now we can reinstall our two exhaust hanger at the back of our muffler. Now we'll slide our exhaust hanger back through the holes in the frame here, reinstall the nuts, and that completes our look at and installation of the Curt Double Lock Flip and Store Under Bed Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit, part number C60720, on our 2005 Ford F-250.

Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B

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