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Curt Double Lock Flip and Store Gooseneck Hitch Installation - 2008 Ford F-350

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How to Install the Curt Double Lock Flip and Store Gooseneck Hitch on a 2008 Ford F-350

Speaker 1: Today on our 2008 Ford F-350, we'll be having a look at and installing the Curt Double Lock Flip and Store Underbed Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit, part number C60720. Here's what our underbed gooseneck looks like installed. This underbed system doesn't take up any of our valuable bed space. All of the mechanism is stored and mounted underneath the bed of our truck. We'll still be able to lay our sheets of plywood in or whatever that we have completely flat against the bottom of our truck bed.Now, when you want to tow your trailer, just pull out the plug, your handle's released. You have a nice finger-grip here to pull the ball on out.

Flip it over, it's slotted, so it'll only go in one way. This will guide up your locking pins to make sure your ball will be secured. You just release the handle and it'll secure it into place. Hook up your safety chains, couple up your trailer, and you're ready to go.Now, in order to operate our handle to release our ball to take it out or flip it over, pull out on it as far as you can, rotate it clockwise, and it'll latch open. What you can do is one-person operation to switch your ball around.

Once you have it in the desired position, either in the storage mode or to tow a trailer, you can come back down, turn it counterclockwise and release it. It'll go back in on a spring-loaded mechanism.Now, there's a few key features here that I like to point out, which makes this gooseneck different from other ones on the market, mainly our double-pin latch mechanism, which secures our ball to our gooseneck hitch. By having the double-pin, this gives us added strength and security to make sure our ball's not going to move around and our trailer is securely coupled to our truck.We have our 2-and-5/16ths ball, our spring-loaded safety chain loops. This hitch features a 30,000 pound max gross trailer weight rating, which is the amount we can pull, and a 7,500 pound vertical load limit, which is the amount forcing down on the ball. Now, you'll want to consult the owner's manual of your F-350 and not exceed what the truck is rated for.

You don't want to damage your truck.To begin our install, we need to measure out, according to the instructions, where we're going to drill our hole in the bed of our truck. To get that measurement, we'll be measuring from the end of the bed, not the end of our tailgate when it's folded down. It's very important we do that. I'll mark out on both sides of the tape measurer.Now, we're making sure we're drilling through center of the bed, side to side. You can determine that by measuring out with your tape measurer.

You'll make sure that your center mark is the center of the bed, which ours is. Make our pilot hole now. Now we'll use a proper size hole saw, as indicated in the instructions.Now that we have our hole made, you can see how we have exposed metal. It's always a good idea to just put some paint around that, so you don't have to worry about any rust happening in the future. Clear coat is perfect, because it'll protect the metal from rusting and you won't be able to tell any different color around your vehicle's paint.Now we find ourselves underneath the truck. For video purposes, we removed the spare tire. You don't have to do this, but it gives you a better line of sight. If your truck has a diesel engine, we need to lower the exhaust. If you have a gasoline engine, you can skip this step. We have two 10-millimeter bolts here that hold our heat shield in place, we'll remove these.In this area, we have two 13-millimeter nuts to remove and then the heat shield will come down. Now, to lower our tailpipe section of our exhaust, we'll unbolt this hanger. We have two 10-millimeter bolts, one that goes vertical right here and then one that's horizontal above it in the frame. Now, again, to lower the exhaust on diesel engines, there is a second spot where you need to lower the hanger.Right at the end of our resonator, right in front of our rear differential, there's a bracket that's bolted to the cross member in our frame. There's two studs right here. On top of the cross member, there are two 13-millimeter nuts. We'll apply the deep well socket end on our ratchet and we'll take those out. All right, now that we have our nuts loose enough, we can slide in our spacer plate to lower the exhaust hanger on down.The way this works, we'll slide it in like this, between the two studs, and then it'll rotate and then catch on both of our studs. We'll leave the nuts loosened for this time, in case we need to pull down on the exhaust further in order to get the gooseneck head in place. All right, now our heat shield above our exhaust that's glued to the bed of the truck, we need to remove this. To do that, just pull down.Okay, we're in the driver side wheel well of our truck now. We have our rear rail. The way we can tell this is a rear rail is because we have two notches right next to each other on one side. This will face towards the passenger side of the truck. We'll take the rail and we'll slide it above our frame, right behind our front cross member on the bed.Now, sometimes it's easier to pry from underneath the bed. We just need to use the notches to help get this over the shock tower and over our frame. Okay, now we'll slide our rail back towards the rear of the truck. Now, in some instances you will have to tap it, especially if your bed's been used and has crushed down a little bit.Okay, now we'll take our front rail. This is the one that only has two notches, so they have one like this on each side. We'll want to have this side here with the holes in it facing towards the rear of the truck once we rotate it up. We'll slide it in the same way. Okay, we've gone ahead and made sure there was nothing that's going to interfere with our mounting clamps. On gasoline trucks, you probably are going to have to relocate, depending on your application, some fuel lines, brake lines, and the parking brake cable. On diesel trucks, that's not the case.This is the bracket you're using if you don't have aftermarket airbags installed, which in our case we don't. This threaded rod will be on the top side. We'll install this about six inches in front of the slotted hole in the frame. We'll just wrap it around the frame like this, just like that. Okay, we'll take our driver side frame bracket now. We know it's the driver side, because these will face out, away from the frame, and this section here will face towards the rear of the truck.Now, the way our bracket is going to work, we'll slide our notch here up into this area and then rotate it, so the stud on the C-clamp goes through this hole. Now we'll take our flange nut and we'll thread it on over the stud and we'll leave it loose. Now with our frame bracket in place, we'll take one of our three-quarter bolts and our flat washer and we'll stick it through this hole here.Here's where the bolt comes through on the inside of our frame. We'll add our flange nut now. Okay, we're just going to have everything just basically finger-tight to allow for adjustment later on. Once we have this in place, we'll repeat the same process for the passenger side. Okay, now we'll take two of our carriage bolts and we'll slide them through our front rail, just like this, in the center.Now, this is the center section of our gooseneck. This hole here is offset, it'll go towards the front of the truck. We'll have someone pulling down on our exhaust and we'll place on two nuts, place in two more carriage bolts, one on each side with our nuts. Now we'll slide our rear rail forward. Now, in order to get it to rotate, in some applications you may need to use a pair of pliers. Slide in our carriage bolts, just like we did for the front rail.Once we have our carriage bolts installed, we'll secure it again with our flange nuts, just like we did on the front rail. Okay, now we'll take one of our hex head bolts and a conical tooth washer. We'll make sure that the teeth face away from the bolt head and towards our bracket. We'll slide that through our C-clamp and our frame bracket on the bottom and we'll place on a flange nut.We'll have to take this nut off here on the top and we'll slide our carriage bolt on through. Place our nut here, put the nut back on there. Now we'll take a carriage bolt here, go through on the back side, put our nut on. Now we'll tighten down our rails to our center section using a three-quarter-inch socket. All right, now we'll torque our hardware to the amount specified in the instructions.Now we'll tighten down our side plates to our frame. I have an inch-and-one-eighths socket with a long breaker bar, a ratchet or wrench, whatever you want to use to hold the nut in place. I'll use an inch-and-eighths socket to tighten down the bolt. Now we'll do the flange nut here for our C-clamp. Now we'll do our ones that hold our rails to our side bracket here to hold this bolt still here with the three-quarter-inch socket or wrench and tighten down the nut. Then, we'll tighten down the ones for our carriage bolts.Okay, we're going to place a breaker bar with an inch-and-one-eighth socket on the bolt. Then, we'll use a torque wrench to torque the nut on the back side. Now we'll torque down C-clamp one. Now we'll torque down the nuts that hold our rails to our frame brackets. We'll finish by torquing the bolt that holds our frame bracket to our C-clamp. Now we'll repeat the same process for the other side.Now we find ourselves underneath the bed of the truck again. We'll be drilling our holes for our safety chain loops to go through, that's what these slotted holes are for. You want to use the ones that are in the lower part of your bed corrugation. In our case, that's the outer ones. We'll drill a pilot hole right through the center, do the same for the other one.Okay, now we'll enlarge our holes with a step bit to the size indicated in the instructions. We'll make sure our U-bolts drop through nice and smoothly. Just like we did for the larger hole, we'll use some clear coat to prevent rust. Okay, now we'll take a flat washer, followed by our spring, followed by a second flat washer, followed by a lock nut. It's the same for all ends of our U-bolt.Now we use a three-quarter-inch socket and we'll tighten our lock nuts until they are flush with the bottom of the U-bolt. Okay, we'll do the same for the other one. Okay, this is our ball-latch mechanism. We'll insert this, making sure that this hole is on the top from the driver side. Okay, this is our handle. We'll insert this from the driver side. Inside, we see a round hole where this goes to. Now we'll slide our spring over our handle, slide the handle through, and into our locking pin.Now, we'll secure our handle to our latch mechanism using the provided bolt and nut. The bolt has a seven-millimeter head and the nut is an eight-millimeter. Once you have it through, make sure it's actually in all the way, and we'll tighten it on down. Okay, now that we have all the hardware in place for the gooseneck hitch, we can snug up the nuts on our Ford exhaust hanger where we installed our spacer block.Okay, we got one tight. We'll get the second one tight now. Okay, now for our rear tailpipe hanger, the speed clip here, which has a nut on it, we need to un-clip from the frame just by prying down with a flathead screwdriver and then wiggling it off. Okay, we'll take that speed clip and we'll slide it on to our new bracket just like that.Now we'll take our bracket, one of our 5/16ths carriage bolts, slide it through. Then, we'll slide it through the hole in the frame where our exhaust hanger was originally bolted to. We'll go up and into the clip that it was in. We'll take our bolt here, go through our new relocation bracket and into the original hanger.Once we have those bolts back in place, we'll tighten them back up securely. Now we'll reinstall our exhaust heat shield for the spare tire. That completes our look at and installation of the Curt Double Lock Flip and Store Underbed Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit, part number C60720, on our 2008 Ford F-350.

Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B

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