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Curt Trailer Hitch Installation - 2020 Lincoln Corsair

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How to Install the Curt Trailer Hitch on a 2020 Lincoln Corsair

Hi there, Lincoln owners. Today on your 2020 Lincoln Corsair, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install Curt's class three two inch trailer hitch receiver. Now this is what our hitch is going to look like when it's installed. The cross tube is hidden behind the bumper, so you're just going to see the receiver here and it's tucked up nicely so it really doesn't detract from the looks of the vehicle. You'll secure your accessories to your hitch using a 5/8 inch hitch pin and clip. Now, one doesn't come included with the hitch, but we've got plenty of available here at etrailer, and I would recommend getting the locking pins to protect your investments.

Just behind that, we've got plate-style safety chain loops, and they're at a diagonal angle, which makes it a little bit easier to access. The opening is kind of a moderate size opening, but it shouldn't be large enough to accommodate most of your safety chains out there. The little one had no problem, and the big one here has no problem as well. This hitch offers a 525 pound tongue weight, which is the force going down on top of the receiver, and that should be enough for a four bike platform rack fully loaded up with four bikes. It's almost large enough for the largest cargo carrier here at etrailer.

It is going to be a little bit shy of being able to load it up all the way to the max, but you should still be able to get a lot of gear out of your vehicle to free up room for more gear or some more passengers. It also features a 3,500 pound gross towing capacity, which is how much that you can pull behind it. And that should be enough if you've got a small pop-up camper you want to bring with you, maybe some small boats, a jet-ski, you should be able to do pretty much most of your little things. If you are looking to get a bigger camper or something, you might want to look at a bigger vehicle than this for those larger campers because it's just not gonna have enough here on the hitch of the vehicle. Now, as always, I recommend you verify in your vehicle's owner's manual and ensure you don't exceed it's towing capacities.

Now I've got some measurements for you to help you when deciding on accessories. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the edge of the rear bumper, we're looking at right at about seven inches. And this is important when determining if your accessories will contact the bumper when inserted into the receiver, and if they can be placed in the upright storage position without contacting the bumper. And from the ground to the top inside edge of our receiver tube, we're looking at right at about 13 and a half inches. And that's important when determining if you need a drop, a rise or raise shank on your accessories.

Now this one is getting pretty low so you might want to consider a raise shank on those accessories. Now that we've covered some of the features of our hitch, why don't you follow along with us in the shop and we'll show you how to get it installed. It's fairly simple, we will have to do just a little bit of modification to the bottom of the vehicle to get the hardware in place so make sure you get yourself a little grinding bit or grinding wheel available, but it will be over before you know it. We'll begin our installation underneath the vehicle. Now you don't have to lower down your exhaust, but it's pretty tight and I highly recommend it to make it easier to install, we're going to be lowering ours down. We're going to put a strap in place first underneath the vehicle, and this is just going to catch our exhaust here. And then we can remove the hangers that are holding it in place. On both the passenger and driver's side, you're going to have a bolt where it attaches the hanger to the frame. On the passenger's side, we're going to have an additional nut on that bolt. We'll remove that nut with an 11 millimeter socket. We can just slide the wiring off of there, just kind of slides off. And next, we can remove the bolt. For this one, we're going to switch to a 10 millimeter socket. And our exhaust should come down a bit with that. We'll then go over to the other side and we'll take that one loose the same way. And this should be pretty good right here, if you need a little bit more to bring it down, you can just take your strap and loosen it up a bit, and that'll give you a little bit more slack. But that's plenty of room not to be able to slide it in and be able to work here on the frame where we need it to be. Next, we're gonna grab an extra set of hands because we need to hold our hitch into position, and we need to mark on the bottom of the frame. It is going to line up with pre-existing holes in the frame, but one of them we're going to have to enlarge to allow spacers to pass through, and we also need to enlarge it in a certain direction to make sure that it lines up with our hitch properly. So with our extra set of hands, we're just lifting our hitch into position. I do have a paint stick in my hand, so I can mark, the area where we're going to need to trim, and that's pretty much this back area right here. So I'm just marking it on the frame where I need the trim on this side, and we're just going to head over to this side and mark this side of the frame as well. Then we can just pull our hitch back down, and we'll have to enlarge the area where we marked to be able to feed our hardware into place. So here you can see the area where our hardware needs to pass through that we marked here. You could grind this out but it's a quite large area and then take quite some time to grind. So, to save some time, I think it's going to be a lot easier to just cut this section out. So we're going to make two slits going down forward and backward on the car. And then we're just going to take this and bend this down, because after we bend it down then we can just use our cut off wheel to cut it off flush with the bottom. Now that we've got her bent down, we'll just take our cutoff wheel now and just trim that right off. That's probably gonna be pretty hot, you don't want to grab it with your hand. We'll just grab it with our pliers there and pull that up away. And now we can see, we've got plenty of area there to be able to feed our hardware up into the frame, it's going to line up properly with our hitch. If you do have any little rough edges right here, you can just take a hammer and just kind of knock those up to where it's flush against the bottom of the frame. We'll then head over to the other side and we're going to notch it out the same way. Once you've got your side cut out, you want to make sure that your hardware can easily pass up in there. So your spacers, make sure those can slide up in there easily, as well as the head of your bolts. The head if your bolts are pretty thick so you may need to take your cut off wheel a little bit and just kind of hit the edges just a little bit to widen it out just enough to get that bolt to slide up in there like that. And to help prevent against rust and corrosion, we're just going to put a little bit of spray paint on the area where we cut it out. We can now start to get our hardware into position, we're going to fish wire it. I like to start at the furthest hole from our access holes, so that's the one here at the back. You poke the coil end into that hole, and then we're feeding it towards the front, towards our access hole that we had enlarged. Sometimes it helps to kind of give a couple of bends in the wire to help angle it down as well. There you go. And there's our coiled end. I do like to take the end here and just put kind of a 90 degree in it, that way if our hardware wants to try to slide through this kind of catches and helps keep our fish wire from just falling right back through. We'll now take one of the spacers that come in your kit. This is just going to slide over the coiled end, we're just going to push that up into the frame. Then we're going to take a carriage bolt that comes in our kit, and this is going to thread onto our coiled wire. Once we have that threaded on there, we're going to push the bolt up into the frame, and then pull our coiled wire until it pops back down through the hole. We'll then just going to repeat that procedure for the next hole, and then we're going to do both rear holes on the other side, and then I'll show you the reverse fish wire technique to get the piece of hardware in place in the access hole that we had enlarged. So now we're going to do the reverse fish wire technique for our access hole here. So just take your coiled wire, we're going to slide your space there on top. We're going to thread your carriage bolt into the coiled end. We can then push the carriage bolt into the frame, slide our spacer up into the frame, and then just pull our bolt until it comes back through. We'll then repeat the same procedures over on the other side to get that hardware installed. And now with our set of hands, we'll lift our hitch into position. You want to take your coiled wires and you want to feed those down through the openings in your hitch that are going to line up with the appropriate hole, that'll match up to the frame. Once you've got them all fed down, you can then lift your hitch up into position. We can then go ahead and remove a coiled wire, and get a nut started on one, be careful not to push your hardware back up into the frame. Once you get one nut started on each side, that'll hold the hitch up, making it easier to install the rest of your hardware. We can then go back with our 19 millimeter socket and tighten down our hardware. And then we can torque all of our hardware to the specifications outlined in our instructions. We can now put our exhaust back into position, so you have to lift it up to line up those hangers. There's a little alignment peg on one side that fits into our hole. And then you can get your bolt in there and get it started, and again really, you just going to get it hand started, then we can head over to the other side and get that side started as well. We can then go back and tighten them down with our 10 millimeter socket. And then don't forget over here on the passenger's side, you had that wire harness. slide that wire harness clip back in place and re-install the nut. With our exhaust back in place we don't need our strap here anymore, so we can take that off, get that set aside. And now at this point, we're ready to load up our hitch with our favorite accessories, and hit the road. And that completes our installation of Curt's Class Three Two Inch Trailer Hitch Receiver on our 2020 Lincoln Corsair..

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