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Curt Trailer Hitch Installation - 2020 Lincoln Corsair

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How to Install the Curt Trailer Hitch on a 2020 Lincoln Corsair


Rob: Hey everybody, it's Rob here at etrailer.com. Today, we're going to be taking a look at the Curt Class Three Custom-Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver on our 2020 Lincoln Corsair.Now, I really liked the way this hitch looks. It's almost completely hidden. The cross tube is going to be hidden behind the bumper and the only thing we're going to see is that receiver tube here. But even then, the receiver tube kind of sits back a little bit and it's tucked underneath the bumper really nicely so it's not going to be distracting from the look of our Lincoln. Now it is a class three so it's going to give us that two-inch by two-inch receiver tube opening, which is really going to give us the widest variety of options when it comes to accessories that we can mount up.

Obviously the trailer, so we put a ball mount in there, tow a trailer with it. But we can also make a lot of room inside of our Lincoln.You can put a cargo carrier back here and move some of the gear to the outside. So we can put more people and pets inside with us. Or maybe we just want to take a bike ride. We can take some friends with us, put a bike rack in there, carry a bunch of bikes with us and hit the road.

But regardless of how we're going to be using our hitch, all of our accessories are going to mount to the hitch pin hole on the side.So the hitch is going to accept a standard five-eighths pin and clip. Now these are not going to come with the hitch, but you can find them here at etrailer.com, along with some locking devices and anti-rail devices to keep your accessories secure and to cut down on an annoying rattling sound from the back of the receiver tube.Now, if you do plan on doing some towing, our safety chain attachment points you can see you're going to be right here. Kind of on an angle on the side of the receiver tube, which helps out with ground clearance. And if you have some traditional sized hooks, you'll have plenty of room to get them hooked on, take them off. Really don't have to worry about any kind of interference.

But even if you have those really large oversized hooks, there's still plenty of room to get them engaged, take them off. We're not going to have to worry about fighting anything or getting interference with the pin and clip or anything else.Now, obviously, if you're looking at a hitch for your Lincoln, you have something in mind you want to do. And it's important to know that it's going to be up to the test that we put it to. So as far as the weight rating goes, our hitch is going to have a 525 pound tongue weight. It's going to be the maximum downward force at the end of the receiver tube.

And then to put that in perspective, 525 pounds is really going to allow us to maximize the carrying capacity of those large cargo carriers, or maybe even take four or five bikes with us in a bike rack. Now it's also going to have a 3,500 pound gross trailer weight rating. That's how much it can pull, but keep in mind that does include the trailer and the load that we have on it. So you do want to double check your Lincoln's owner's manual because we don't want to exceed the manufacturer's rate.I like to give a few measurements. These are going to help you out whenever you're looking for accessories for your hitch, like a ball mount, a bike rack, or even a cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper is going to be right about six inches. Now that measurement is going to help you when you're looking at folding accessories to make sure you have enough room to put them in the upright storage position and not make contact with the rear bumper.And from the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening is going to run about 14-and-a-half inches. That measurement's going to help you whenever you're looking for a ball mount. So you can match it up to your trailer and find the appropriate rise or drop. And now that we've seen what our hitch looks like and go over some of the features, let's go through the installation process together.To begin our installation, we want to come to the back of our Lincoln and we're going to need to lower our exhaust down. But before we do, we want to put some kind of support so our exhaust doesn't come down too far. So I'm going to use a strap, but if you're at home, you can use a jack stand, a strap, pretty much whatever you have available just to help support it once we do lower it down. We'll just find solid point to attach it to and I'm going to just tighten up the strap to where it has a little bit of support here.Now, if we move to the tailpipe and we move back a little bit, we'll find our hanger. Now we can slip it off the rubber isolator, but it's bolted to the bottom of the frame right here so it'd be easier just to remove this nut. Over here on the driver's side, we'll get a 10 millimeter socket and we'll pull that nut out. And we want to make sure we hold on to this stud because we are going to be replacing it.And moving over to the passenger side, on the other side of the muffler, we're going to have the same mounting point, but we're going to have another nut that's actually holding this wiring in place. Now this nut is going to be a seven sixteenths or an 11 millimeter. So we'll use that to pull it off. Remove that nut. That will allow us to pull the wiring down, kind of swing it out of the way a little bit. And then we'll grab that same 10 millimeter socket and pull that stud down.Now we bring our attention to the frame rail. On each side, we're going to have these plastic pushpins holding that liner kind of against the frame here. When you pull those out, you can see on these pushpins, there's a little notch on there. We're going to get a flat blade screwdriver or a trim panel tool. We'll come right in that notch and we want to pull the center section out of that pushpin. That's going to take the tension off of it, and then it'll allow us to pull the rest of it out, coming underneath the base and just pulling it out. Pull the other one out, and then we'll move to the other side and get the two over there.Now I'd like to go over the attachment points of where our hitch is going to mount. If we start at the very back of the frame rail where the bumper meets it, it'll have a hole. That's going to be one attachment point. And we move farther forward, the next hole's going to be another one. And then right where we remove these pushpins there'd be another oval hole towards the front. That's going to be our third and final attachment point. And they're going to be both the same on each side, and we need to get some hardware in place. However, you can see that the hardware that has to go in is going to be too big to fit in any of the mounting holes.So since this hole in the center is kind of open, there's not too much stuff around it. We're going to enlarge this hole just big enough that we can get our carriage bolt and our spacer block in. So I'm going to use a step bit and enlarge this hole just big enough to get the hardware in place. Now I do suggest that you periodically stop, regardless of what kind of tool you're using because we only want to take away enough material just to get the hardware in. And again, I want to use a step bit, but you can use a file, another drill.Now that we have the hole enlarged big enough to get our hardware in place, we're going to move to the other frame rail and do the same thing. Now it's never a good idea to leave exposed metal on your vehicle, especially on the frame. So I'm going to come back with some spray paint. I'm going to spray and cover all the exposed metal areas, hopefully preventing any kind of rust or corrosion. So anytime you have exposed metal or you drill or anything like that, I always suggest kind of covering it up with some kind of paint to prevent that corrosion from building up.To get our hardware in place, we'll grab one of our pull wires. Now, a quick trick that I like to do is we're going to get our first piece of hardware in the very back of the bumper. So I'll kind of just take my pull wire, estimate how far it is from that mounting point to our access hole, put a small bend in the wire. I'm going to feed it in the mounting hole and go towards the access hole. Now, if you bend it correctly, it should come out or be pretty close. But if you do have to put your finger inside, be extremely careful because we did just get drilling there.We'll stick the coiled end out. And at this point, you want to make sure you leave the tail and the coiled end sticking out of the frame. And we'll grab a square hole spacer block, slide it over the wire and push it into the frame. Take a carriage bolt thread it onto the end of the wire. Push that in the frame as well. So we pull our pull wire until we can have our full drop-down through. Now, I like to leave the pull wire attached. That way, whenever we lift the hitch, even if the bolt does get pushed back in the frame, we can just pull on that pull wire. Now that's going to be the same method to get our piece of hardware in the inaudible 00:08:57 hole right here. So we'll go ahead and put it in place as well.Now, the middle mounting hole where our access hole that we've been using is. To get the hardware in place, it's going to be a little bit different. We'll still take our pull wire because at this time we want to put our block in place first over the coiled end and we'll thread on the carriage bolt. Then we'll push the bolts into the frame, then the block. And you just want to pull down on that bolt to where it comes down through the frame. And again, I'm going to leave all my pull wires attached. Well, we're going to move over to the other side and put our hardware in place over there.Now, at this point, I suggest getting an extra set of hands to help you lift the hitch in place. We want to make sure we put our pull wires going down from the top. We'll make sure our hitch goes over the exhaust. We'll line up our hitch, the hardware and the frame. And for that felt liner, we're still going to leave it sandwiched in between the hitch and the frame. The way those plastic pushpins won't get in the way. Once we get it up, we want to pull one of the pull wires off. We'll take a flange nut. We want to get at least one of those in place on each side. That way the hitch will hold itself up. Then we can work on getting the rest of it in place. And each one of the bolts is going to get a flange nut. So let's go through and put the rest of the hardware in.Once all the flange nuts are in place, you can come back with a three-quarter inch socket and tighten them all up.So you want to make sure you come back with a torque wrench and torque all your hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. It may help if you have a small extension, so you can bring the torque wrench down just enough to really get a good swing on it. We're going to go through, make sure we repeat that for all of our remaining hardware.So now that the hitch is torqued down, I'm going to raise my exhaust up. Tighten that strap up a little bit, just to help me line up my exhaust hangers, and then we can put the studs back in place. Now here on the passenger side, we also have that clip. So we're going to make sure we tighten up this stud first, and then we can put the wiring and the other nut back in place. And then we're going to replace the driver's side hanger as well.Once we have that last bolt in, we can remove the support strap that we had for our exhaust. And that'll finish up your installation and your look at the Curt Class Three Custom-Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver on our 2020 Lincoln Corsair.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Jim G.

The technician did a great job with this video. Each step was clearly shone and explained. This was a great help to install this hitch....

Andrew H.

This video was really well done. The camera angles were clear so you can see all the steps and the actors lines were delivered perfectly.