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Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2010 Subaru Outback Wagon

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How to Install the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2010 Subaru Outback Wagon

Ryan: Hey, everybody. Ryan here at Today on our 2010 Subaru Outback wagon we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness. This is going to provide us with all the necessary lightning functions to not only remain safe and legal, but to also let other motorists know what our intentions are as we're going down the road.Our wiring is going to provide us with more than enough power to work with either incandescent or even LED lighting. It's going to have three amps per circuit for the stop and turn, and six amps for our tail light circuit. Now, one of the things I really like about this wiring kit is that it uses a module box.

Now, that's going to protect our vehicle's wiring if a short or anything like that we're to happen on our trailer.Now, our wiring does have a nice dust cap on the end to help keep any moisture, or dirt and debris out of our terminals, and I'd also recommend some dielectric grease to put on our terminals every now and again to help prevent any corrosion. Now, the cap also doubles as a hanger to hold our wiring to our hitch, or there's also brackets available that would go on your hitch and store your wiring in a more permanent position, something like this.Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's go ahead and install it together. To begin our install, we're going to need to remove our tail lights, so we'll start by opening up our hatch. In here on the inside edge of our tail light, we're going to have two 10 millimeter bolts that we'll need to pop out. Then once those are out, we can wiggle our tail light.

If it doesn't want to come out, what you can do is take the palm of your hand and lightly tap the corner of it like that.Then behind it you will need to disconnect one electrical connector. Push down on the center of the tab and separate it apart. I'm going to do the same thing over on the other side. Now we're going to grab our wiring harness, and we're going to feed the wires down through the tail light pocket to get them to drop underneath the car. We'll start with our four-way and the only other wire that we're going to feed down for now is the red and green wire.Now we can take our yellow and brown wires, and use this connector to plug into our factory tail light wiring.

Now we can take our big bundle of black wire and connect it to the black wire coming out of our box. Now, I'm going to be using a heat shrink butt connector just for a little extra protection. However, the one in the kit that's provided will work just fine, too. We'll put that over the wire. Crimp it down, and do the same thing on the other wire.

To shrink our heat shrink, I'm going to be using a heat gun.Now with our wire connected, we can take the other end of it and feed it down through the tail light pocket as well. Now we're going to secure our box using the provided two-sided sticky tape. Now, it's very important that you clean off both surfaces with some rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to make sure our sticky tape works properly. Now, I'm going to mount this down in the tail light pocket where it's nice and flat on that sheet metal.First peel off one side of our backing paper. Stick it to our box. Tear the other side off. We can carefully drop it down into place and stick it to the metal. Now once we have our box secured, we can ground out our white wire with the ring terminal attached to it, and we're going to ground that onto some sheet metal here in the tail light pocket. We're going to do that using the provided self-tapping screw.Now we can tuck the rest of our wires down out of the way and reconnect our tail light. We'll take the other end of our connector and plug it into our light. We'll put our tail light in place the same way that we removed it. Now, over here on the passenger side, before we run our wires over and up into our tail light pocket, it's best to use a pull wire, which is just a piece of nylon tubing, but you can use a coat hanger or even a rigid piece of wiring.You can drop that down through the pocket to the bottom of the car. That way when we run our wiring over here, we can connect it to this pull wire, and pull it right up nice and easy. Our red and green wires with the connectors on the end of it, we're going to run that over to the passenger side where we dropped down that pull wire, and our four-pole wiring, that's going to run here close to the center of the hitch. So, I'll go ahead and do that and show you the path that I took.Now, it's a little tricky to see, but our wires came down out of that pocket over here, and I just went up in front of our hitch, and behind our bumper cover, and dropped my four-way out right here. The red and green wire continues along up through here, and our pull wire actually dropped out of this pocket, and so I taped our red and green wire to it, and pulled it up into our tail light pocket.With our connectors up through our passenger side, we can un-tape it from our pull wire and then connect it to our tail light. Now one of the plugs, we'll plug into our tail light. The other one we'll plug to the factory wiring. When that's done, we can reinstall it just like we took it out. I went ahead and ran our black power wire up to the front into the engine compartment. This is the path that I took. Came up and over our subframe.It's very important to avoid any moving or hot parts, and it drops down right through here. You can just peel this plastic shield back, and I ran it underneath there, and then up and along through here, and I brought it over to the side and ran it along the inside of our frame rail. Now, I secured it using some clamps that you can find here on Up and over this support, zip tied it to one of the brake lines.What I did before I started running this, I actually used a pull wire just like we did on the tail lights, and dropped it down through the engine compartment. That way at this point we can take the other end of our wire, connect it to the pull wire. Then we can go into the engine compartment and pull this wire up. We're going to route this over to the positive side of our battery.With our power wire ran over to our battery, we can now prepare our fuse holder. To do that, you want to first open up the cap and make sure the fuse is not installed. Then on one end of it, we're going to put on a butt connector. Once again, I'm using a heat shrink one, and if you'd rather use these, you can find them here at etrailer. Crimp that down. I'm going to put on the included ring terminal.Now, once that is done we can eyeball the length that we're going to need to remove the excess power wire. We kind of figure out how we want to run it. I think we'll go something like that, so we'll trim our power wire about here. We can strip some of that insulation back and then connect our fuse holder to it. I'll use my heat gun to shrink our heat shrink. Now we can remove the nut holding down our positive battery terminal. Place our ring terminal over it, and tighten the nut back down.At this point, we can put in our included fuse. Close the dust cover. Now I'm just going to use a zip tie around our battery handle to make sure it doesn't bounce around. With everything hooked up, you can use a tester or you can plug into your trailer and make sure everything is working properly. We're going to use our left turn, our right turn, our brake lights, and our running lights. That'll do it for our look at and our installation of the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness on our 2010 Subaru Outback wagon.

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Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Zack K
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Zack K
Employee Jacob T
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Employee Dustin K
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Employee Andrew K
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Employee Joshua S
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Employee Cole B
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