Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2011 Kia Sportage

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How to Install the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2011 Kia Sportage


Clayton: Hello, everybody. Clayton here at etrailer.com. At etrailer.com we test fit, install, and review a ton of different products to help you as a customer make a more educated decision for your vehicle.And today I have a 2011 Kia Sportage. We'll be taking a look at, and I'll show you how to install, the CURT T-Connector 4-Pole Wiring Harness. Our 4-Pole wiring is going to allow us to get those necessary lighting functions back to our trailer or cargo carrier. This is going to allow us to not only travel legally, but also safely.

Our 4-Pole is going to have a nice dust cover to protect our plugs from the elements.Now, this is a pretty easy kit to get installed. One really nice feature about it is that it's plug-and-play, so we don't have to splice into any of our vehicle's wiring. Also, our module is going to be contained inside of the vehicle behind the grommet, so we don't have to worry about any dirt or debris getting in that module and potentially screwing up our wiring going down the road in a few years.Now, in terms of installation, this really isn't that bad to get installed. Like I said, it's plug-and-play. The hardest part is going to be running our wire up to our battery.

So we've gone over some of the features. We've talked a little bit about installation. I'll show you how to get this installed on your car now.To start our installation, we're going to be removing a wiring harness located here behind our driver's side wheel. As you can see, there's a plug right here. Just want to pull out here and try to get this clip undone.

If we actually pinch it together, we can push it out. Now we just want to push down on this tab and pull our plug apart. So again, we're just going to push on this tab and then pull our harness apart.Now we're going to grab a nylon pry tool and pull this grommet out of our floorboard, just like that. Then we just want to cut this grommet. We do want to be careful not to cut the wiring inside of the grommet.

Once we get through the grommet completely, we can remove it and it'll be re-installed in a later step. With our grommet removed, we just want to push our plug back up into the car. Now we'll move up to the top side.Now the trunk area of our vehicle, we went ahead and lifted out the trunk liner. We now need to remove three of these plastic push-pins on our back panels. We're going to grab a small flat-blade screwdriver, carefully unthread it. You don't want to push too hard or else it won't come out.Now with that released, we can grab our trim panel tool. Pry out on the head of the plastic push-pin. Pull the push-pin out on the bottom and kind of pry the whole thing out. We'll repeat that same process for our other two push-pins.With our three fasteners removed, we can now pull up on our kick panel. You want to work your way from left to right. We now lift our kick panel out and set it off to the side. We're now going to be removing three Phillips-head screws; one located here, one located here, and one located here. That's going to allow us to pull this panel out a little bit and work behind it. Again, there's three Phillips-head screws.We can now remove our left tail lamp. We're going to grab a Phillips-head screwdriver and remove this screw and this screw. With our two screws removed, we can pull back on our tail lamp. We just want to pull straight back, towards the back of the vehicle. Just like that, we have our taillight assembly out. We're now going to push down on this tab here and then pull straight back to disconnect our tail lamp. We can set this off to the side.We can now I grab a nylon pry tool. We're just simply going to pry out on this body panel here. It's kind of hard to see down here, but if we reach down you can grab that harness that we pulled up through the bottom. We can now grab our new wiring harness. We are now going to take this side here and simply slide it over our plug. You hear a nice, audible click. Now we can grab our module and drop that back to through bottom.In our case, we do have a bracket on our hitch to mount our 4-Pole wiring, so we're just going to drop everything back through. Before we can drop our wiring through the bottom, I do want to strip this back just a little bit more and then we can add our black wire for the power. Again, we're going to be using the black wire off of our module.I'm going to grab our provided butt-connector. We'll crimp that down, then grab the long black wire provided in our kit. We'll strip that back. I'm going to trim a little bit of that off. I left too much. And then we'll simply add this to the other end of our butt connector. I'm going to come back and add some electrical tape to this, just to be safe.We're now ready to drop everything but our module and our ground wire through that hole in the bottom of our car.We're now ready to mount our module down here with our two-sided tape. We're going to peel back one side of this tape and stick it to the backside of our module, just like so. We're mounting our module right here on the underside of our rear facia. You want to make sure to hold it down for a few seconds, just to make sure that that two-sided tape is going to stick.We're now ready to mount our ground wire. I'm just going to run it right down here next to our grommet. We can use our supplied self-tapper. Before we go any farther. I want to take that grommet and just add it to our wiring right here. That way we know it's protected in our vehicle. With our grommet re-installed. We can now push our body panel back into place and then reinstall our screws.We can now take our plug that dropped through that grommet and plug it in right here where we disconnected that plug earlier. We'll plug that in and then push this plastic connector back into that hole in our frame. Just like that. Now we can zip-tie up some of our wiring and then we'll go back on top of the car, drop a pull wire down and pull up our taillight connections.We're now ready to run our black wire up to our battery. Now it is important to stay away from anything moving, so that's going to be suspension components or your driveshaft if your vehicle is all-wheel drive. And we want to stay away from anything hot, so that's going to be our exhaust. I'll go ahead and show you how I routed ours.This is where our wiring comes out, I ran it right up here along our brake lines. Followed this brake line up over our sub-frame. Pulled it out right here. Luckily there was enough factory lines to follow, so we just followed those factory lines up behind our fuel tank, then under this underbody panel. It comes out the underbody panel here. I just zip-tied it to our factory lines here. Ran it all the way up to here.We're now going to drop our air line tube through this gap where our taillight was. You can also use a coat hanger or a string with a nut on the end. Basically, just anything that can get down to the bottom to help us pull our wiring up.With our air line tube pulled through the bottom, we can now grab our plugs for our taillight assembly. We're just going to grab some electrical tape, tape our plugs onto our pull wire, and we can pull them up through our facia.Moving up top with our wires pulled through, we can remove our electrical tape. Want to grab the gray plug. Just want to line it up with our factory plug for our taillight and plug it in there. You hear a nice click. Give it a little pull, make sure it's not going anywhere. Grab the new end of our plug, slide it into our taillight. You heard that nice click. Give it a little pull to make sure we're not going anywhere. Carefully put our wiring down here and then re-install our tail lamp in the reverse order that we took it apart.And I want to take that same pull wire, try to follow a good path going through our engine compartment down to the ground. Again, stay away from anything hot or moving. So, I'll just get this pull wire dropped down and we'll pull our power wire up and make our battery connection.I'm going to try to follow these factory lines right down the backside of our battery. Now you're going to tape our air line tube to our power wire. We can go back up top. We can now pull our power wire up. And I'm just going to zip-tie it to a couple of lines back here, just to secure it. That way it's not going to move after we make our connection. We'll cut it off and grab our wire strippers. Strip back one end just like so. And grab our butt connector provided. Add that to our wire. I'll just crimp it down.Now we can grab our fuse holder provided. It comes pre-stripped. All I have to do is pull back the covering and twist that and add it into our butt connector, and we'll crimp it down. On the other end of our fuse holder, we'll pull off that rubber cap, grab our provided ring-terminal, add that to our wire, and we'll crimp it down. And, again, I'm going to add some electrical tape just to ensure a good connection.We are going to be connecting this to the positive side of our battery, so we're going to lift this cover off. We're going to be using this bolt here, so use a 10 millimeter socket. With this removed, we can grab our ring terminal, slide it on like so, and then re-install our 10 millimeter bolt.When we go to close our lid, it isn't going to close all the way, so we just want to trim out a little square here using our snips. That way it fits over our new wire. With our notch cut out, we can slide our cover back over our wire, snap it into place. And we can grab our ten-amp fuse provided. All we want to do is push that into our fuse holder just like so. We can close our cap.Now, let's hook it up and test everything out. If you don't have a tester, you can find one here at etrailer.com. We'll go ahead and test it out. We'll start with our brake light signal. Now we'll try our running light signal. And do our right turn and our left turn.At this point, feel free to re-install everything in your trunk.Went ahead and cleaned up our wiring. Our hitch did have a bracket for a short mount for our 4-Pole, so I went ahead and threw that on there. You can find one of those here at etrailer.com, if you do have that option on your hitch.With all that being said, that's going to complete our look at and the installation of the CURT T1 4-Pole Wiring Harness on our 2011 Kia Sportage.


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Info for this part was:

Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O

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