Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2015 Ford Escape

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How to Install a Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2015 Ford Escape


Ryan: Hey everybody, my name is Ryan and here at etrailer, we install, test, fit and review a lot of different parts. That way we can try to answer any questions those of you might have and that's exactly what we're doing here today on our 2015 Ford Escape. We're to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness. So I know personally, whenever I'm driving down the road, I see these Escapes being used for a little bit of everything. So, whether you plan on towing a trailer, or maybe even using a light up accessory, like a cargo carrier, the wiring is going to get the job done. It's going to provide us with those necessary lighting functions, not only to remain safe, but legal as well.

So, one thing I really like about this wiring is the fact that it uses a module box.And what that's going to do is protect your Escape's factory wiring, if a short or an electrical issue we're to occur on the trailer side. And to me, that would really put my mind at ease knowing that today's vehicles have really complicated electrical systems and you don't want to do anything to jeopardize them. So with this kit, that's one less thing you're not going to have to worry about. So the four way connector is going to come with a nice thick, rubber dust cover, and that's going to really do a good job to help keeping the terminals inside protected. However, I would recommend from time to time to supply some dielectric grease to them that way it'll ensure you won't have any corrosion, and this will work for a very long time.

Now, one thing I would've liked to have seen is the kit coming through to some type of bracket, not really a huge deal, but it would be a little more convenient if you want to mount yours up like this similar to mine.How I did it here There is a ton of brackets available right here at etrailer. So at the end of the day, really nice kit, that's going to help you feel a little bit safer whenever you're pulling your trailer down the road. Now, as far as the installation goes, it's really not too complicated, but it does take up a little bit of time. Since it uses the factory connectors everything does more or less as plug right in. However, there is quite a bit of routing of the wiring that you need to do, but as long as you stay focused you should have no problem getting it done at home, in your garage or maybe even in the driveway.

Speaking of which let's go ahead and do that together now. To begin our installation, we're going to be here at the back of our Escape and first thing we're going to need to do is pull our taillights out.So we can begin by opening up our rear hatch and if you move to this panel here, there should be two plastic covers that we need to pop off. So, I'm going to take a small pick, can also use a flat head screwdriver and what you're going to do is just kind of pry underneath of it. This can be a little tight, but we'll pop those out and set them off to the side. Underneath there we're going to have two eight millimeter bolts.

We'll go ahead and grab our socket pull those out.So, to get the taillight out what you can do is kind of peel up on this rubber that's going over our taillight here, this piece of plastic. And what you're going to do is just kind of grab the taillight and carefully wiggle it from side to side and kind of pull back. And, what we're trying to do is release a couple of clips behind there.Sometimes it can be a little challenging, but take your time we'll get it. You can see one of those clips there, one down here and one up here. Now that we have it out though, we're going to disconnect it. There's a connector you can push down on the center, pull it to your part. I'll set my taillight to the side and repeat the same process over on the passenger side. So, now what I did is use a pull wire, I just used a piece of nylon air tubing you can all see you use a string, another piece of wire, coat hanger, something like that. You drop it down through the taillight pocket until it comes out of the bottom of the escape and you're going to take the T-Connector end from your new wiring. That's yellow, red, and brown, tape it to that pole wire and then what we're going to do is feed that into the connector up into the taillight pocket.That is a little tight so you might have to kind of find that sweet spot to get the connectors up. As long as you kind of take your time you'll eventually get it. You're going to carefully pull everything back till we get our connector up through there. I'm just going to peel off our tape and separate it from our pole wire. So, one end of our T-Connector is going to get plugged into our factory connector there and the other end of our T-Connector is just going to get plugged back into our taillight. Once we have them connected, you can simply reinstall the light the opposite way that we removed it.So, we can get our light lined back up, push back into place make sure that this upper portion, the rubber flap is over the taillight portion and we'll just use our fasteners to re-secure it. The covers simply just snap back into place. Now underneath the vehicle here on the driver's side, this is where all of our wiring ended up and what I did was just secure our module box. Just use a couple of zip ties and zip it up there to some pieces of metal here, that way it'll keep it nice and secure. And, from that point I routed our four pole wiring and our single green wire. So, I started to route them towards the center of the vehicle.So I went up and over our frame rail here and it kind of just tucks up behind her bumper. It runs across our four pole wire. I ended up just putting right here our hitch to this bracket, bracket don't come included you can get one here at etrailer. And, with our four-pole secure, I continued to route our green wire over towards the passenger side and just secure it along the way, using some zip ties and do your best to keep it away from the exhaust. Just like the other side, it goes up and over the frame rail and here's where it drops down. Now what I did just like the other side, as I used to pull wire, drop it down from our taillight pocket and then I simply just taped our T-Connector to it. That way we can go back up top and pull our green T-Connector into the taillight pocket.So, I went ahead and pulled our green T-Connector wire up in to the passenger side taillight pocket. This will work the same as the other side. One end will plug into that factory connector and the other end will plug into our taillight. Once you have it connected, we'll just re-install our taillight again. Now back underneath our vehicle on the driver's side we need to take the white wire with the pre-attached ring terminal, that's going to be a ground, so we need to secure it to the body of our vehicle. So a nice piece of flat metal turns out there's one right here so I'm going to secure it there using the provided self-tapping screw.Now we can do is take our big bundle of power wire, and we're going to take one end of it and strip back the insulation. I'm going to take a butt connector, I'm using a heat shrink one it gives us a little more protection, and you can find these here at etrailer. However, the ones that do come included with the kit will work just fine. We're going to place the butt connector over the baron of the wire and crimp it down. And, the other end of the butt connector is going to get connected to the black power wire that's coming out of our module box. That end is already pre-stripped so we can simply just slide that end, crimp it down.And since this is a heat shrink, I'll come back with my heat source and seal up the end. So, I went ahead and just use some electrical tape to put over our butt connector for a little extra protection and then I simply just secured it to the body of our vehicle, using a zip tie. From there, I routed our power wire towards the front of our Escape that way we can go into the engine compartment and hook it up to our battery. So here's the path that I took kind of just went around our hitch here, went above our subframe and you want to be sure to avoid any hot or moving components. So, you can use handful of zip ties to make sure everything is secure.That's where it comes down, it kind of goes right above that panel and here's the wire running. Here it comes out of the corner and along our pinch weld and what I did is every now and again, I just drilled a small hole in the pinch weld that way I could zip tie the wire really wasn't a ton of spots to keep it secure. Then I kind of shot over towards the center of about this point, brought it around through here and at this point when it goes over through this opening, that's where the power wire shoots up into the engine compartment. Now, the way I got it up there is like how we got our T-Connectors in to the taillight pockets. I used to pull wire, drop it down, tape your power wire to it, and then was able to pull it easily up into the compartment.So now in the engine compartment, here's where our power wire came up and what I went ahead and did was assemble our fuse holder. So one side of the fuse holder's going to receive a ring terminal, the other side a butt connector. So what you're going to do is take that fuse holder, the butt connector end and pair it up with that power wire, put that in, crimp it down. I'll come in with my heat gun and seal up the ends.So here's what our assembly's going to end up looking like, and now we can get it hooked up. So our battery is right here underneath this cover and kind of lift up on it and pull it towards you. It'll slide out and here you can see the positive battery terminal. So what we're going to do is remove this nut, we'll use a 10 millimeter to do that. And here in a moment, if we can take the nut completely off, that's what we'll do. If not, we're going to have to modify our ring terminal a little bit. Sometimes these nuts aren't intended to come completely off at least very easily and you'll know that because it will kind of just stop turning you'll feel like it really tight. And in our case, that's exactly what happened so we're not going to force it off. What we're going to do, just cut a small opening in our ring terminal and since these ring terminals are relatively large, I like to kind of make them a little smaller, kind of squeeze it together a little bit.Cut that opening out again that way it's just a little bit of a tighter fit and give us a better connection. So what we're going to do is take that ring terminal and just slide it underneath the nut there. Keep it in place and then we're simply just going to tighten this back down. Well, once that's all tightened up, we can move to our fuse holder and take the included fuse, push it into place and close up our dust cover.So from there, I kind of just tucked our wiring down into the battery box there and we'll just re-install or cover. Now it's a good idea to test our wiring, to make sure that it's working properly. I'm using a tester, which you can find here at etrailer. And that's a good idea because if your trailer has any issues and shorts it could give us a false reading. But that being said, I'll use my left turn signal, my right turn signal, hit our brakes and turn on our running lights. And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness on our 2015 Ford Escape.


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Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Video by:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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