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Curt Double Lock Flip and Store Gooseneck Hitch Installation - 2009 Chevrolet Silverado

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How to Install the Curt Double Lock Flip and Store Gooseneck Hitch on a 2009 Chevrolet Silverado


Today on our 2009 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 we're going to take a look at, and also show you how to install, the curt double lock flip and store under bed gooseneck hitch with installation kit. Part number is C60712. Here's what our gooseneck is going to look like installed and not in use. That's one of the biggest advantages to the flip and store system is that we're able to use our bed completely when not in use. We're not like the old school style where we just had a ball always sticking up in the middle of the bed. When we're ready for use, we're going to pull the black rubberized protective cap off. That keeps out any dirt, grime, stuff like that.

We'll then pull our release handle on the side. Once that's released, we can grab the attached handle. You'll see our ball is going to slide right up and through. You'll see the dual holes. That's where the double lock comes in.

We've got dual 5/8th inch diameter pins that are going to slide through and that keeps our ball locked into position. This is a chrome plated ball. Two and 5/16th of inch. There's a little bit better look of that handle you can grab ahold to when you pull it out. Now, that's going to slide in. There's only one way it can slide in.

You'll see on one side we've got grooves, the other side we don't. That helps to maintain the right fitment as we put it in. Now, we'll release that handle. Our dual pins will come through the ball. As you can see, we're nice and secure there. Now, the hitch itself is going to rated for 7,500 pounds of downward force.

So we can put up to 7,500 pounds on top of the ball here. It's rated for 30,000 pounds as far as gross trailer weight rating is concerned. That's going to be the total weight of your trailer and anything that you've got loaded in it. Now, of course, you need to check out the owner's manual in your truck to figure out what its rated for and then use which ever of those numbers are the lowest. Now, when it comes time to connect your safety chain the safety chain connection points are provided. On a drop in bed liner like this, I recommend a zip tie on there. That's going to allow you to pull those up, you see Plenty of motion with them so you get your chains connected. Then, that's going to kind of pull that back down towards the floor since they're spring loaded. So, they're not going to be bouncing around and we're not going to have to listen to them as we're traveling. When we're done and we're ready to put our gooseneck up, we're going to pull our release handle, ball is going to come up, out. We're going to rotate that. Drop that right down in. Now, when we'll release that pin that allows those dual pins to come over and slide in. We'll see here something that's kind of different from most of the other goosenecks in the market. They really make this look nice. They add the chrome ring around the top here just to try to help with the appearance sake and then, of course, our cap to go over and give a nice clean look. Here's a good look at the handle operation from our wheel well. Basically out and then just a little rotation on it. That's going to have it locked in that open position. Then, just a rotate that's slightly allowing it to go right back in that locks it up. Here you can see the custom installation brackets. These are designed to mount right up to our frame with no modifications. So, no drilling or anything like that required to our frame. They connect at two points here at the end of our cross rails. It's why our center section will be connected in the middle. It's going to give us a great connection point from that center section, all the way down to our frame, making it very sturdy. For beginner installation, you'll see we've got the spare tire removed here under our truck. We're going to be just above the rear differential where the exhaust comes through and we've got a long heat shield through here. You can completely remove it if you want but we can save it in a few spots. Basically, we're going to cut a straight line across the length of the heat shield here just in front of the two bolts here. Then, we'll go up to the next hat channel there and we're going to trim it off just on this side of the bolts. So we're just going to be taking out that center section there. You can use, of course, like a saws off. You can get it in there. We're going to use a cut off wheel and just take our time with it and get it cut as straight as we can. Now, once we have that heat shield out of the way, we can get the hole taken care of. The hole we need to drill through our bed here. Now, it's easier with a painted bed or with a sprayed in bed liner. With these drop in style liners it's a little bit more of a challenge but nothing we can't get accomplished. You want to look in your instructions and depending on bed length, it's going to give you a measurement where you want to be from the rear edge of the truck bed. If you have a spray on liner that goes around this edge, you want to account for that measurement. So, we'll go right off that painted edge and up to our appropriate measurement here. We'll mark that off. What I'm going to do is cut a hole out of the bed liner here that's a little bit smaller than four inch diameter from that mark. I want to do it from the center of this middle bed rib here. Which is going to be pretty close to on this rib so, we're going to go from one rib to the other and get this cut out. Now, with that cut out, it's going to give me a lot better look at my bed here. Going to make my mark again and then, since these bed liners can move side to side we're going to have to center it on our rib here in the bed. Now, we're going to use a center punch. Just want to mark the dead center of that hole. It's time for us to grab the four inch hole saw and get that cut out. Now, once we've got the hole created, we're just going to clean it up. You can use a file or a little car inaudible 00:06:01 bit. Just clean the edge up so it's nice and smooth. Now, we can clean up any metal shavings that might remain. Now, we're going to touch up that surface with a little bit of rust preventive spray paint here. Curt has provided a small gasket, kind of like an edge, that if you choose to you can put right around there and further protect that hole. Then, you just trim off whatever excess you have. Push it firmly in place. Now, if your truck is equipped with the fender liners which is going to be the plastic material around the inside here, you're going to have a couple screws here in the front to take off. It's an eight millimeter socket. Just get these backed out. Got two in the back side kind of in the same spot. Along the top edge, we've got three push pin fasteners. We need to get those removed as well. For these, you kind of just pull out the center. We're just going to start at one corner and start pulling it out from behind the steel rim of the fender well here. Now, from the passenger side, we're going to slide the rear cross arm into position. Basically, it's going to span from this frame rail over to our other frame rail. Once it's inside of this lip, we're going to rotate it so that their holes are closer to the bottom. Now, sometimes the help of a crescent wrench will allow you to apply some pressure and get that bar to rotate. Just got to bring that towards the back for now. We're going to do the same thing for our front cross bar. The front cross bar is the one that has the two notches taken out of the bottom. You see, it's going to have this notch on both sides. Now see how that one rotates up. Now, we'll lift our center section up into position. You see our safety chain points, those needs to be towards the front. We need the whole to offset towards the rear here. Now, go in above our gas tank. All right, now we want to have this positioned so that we can actually feel the head of our hitch slide up into the hole we created in the bed of the truck. Should also be pretty close to lined up with the threaded holes in the bottom of our arm here. We're going to get these started, just finger tight for now. Now, on each of these bolts, you want a flat washer and a lock washer. Now, we'll bring our forward rail straight back to the front of the center section. You'll see how our holes are going to line up there. We'll get a bolt threaded up into each of those locations as well. Again, leaving them finger tight. Now, the main bolt for our side bracket, it's going to be going through this oblong hole. You'll see this electrical bracket right behind there that's blocking that. We're going to remove that by taking out these two bolts. These are 10 millimeter heads. When we pull those off, we're going to use these same bolts to reattach it to our relocation bracket. Well, we're inside the frame rail now. This is that bracket that we just loosened off the frame. So, bring our relocation bracket in, line those up and reattach it. This bracket is just going to slide over our three quarter inch bolt. Looks like that little tab on the bottom, we're going to have to take off. The oblong hole right here above this brake light bracket is where that's going to slide over. Just position it pretty close so when we bring that bolt through we'll be able to get it through that bracket. Now, we're going to attach the side plate to our cross arms basically the same way we did the center section, using the same hardware. I'm just going to thread these in and just want them to be finger tight. Now, if we just move that over to the frame we'll see the hole that we want our three quarter inch bolt to go through. We're going to start with just the regular flat washer on there and place it through the side plate. We're going to put on two of the washers that have the gap. When you get those both placed on there, just slide them on our bolt. Then, to take up the gap in that oblong hole we've got our spacer here. So, we place that on our three quarter inch bolt. Add all into the frame. We want to go through that electrical bracket. Now, inside the frame rail, you'll see how that spacer sits right in that gap and our electrical bracket is going to go over. Then, we thread on our inaudible 00:11:38. Now, we're going to bring our larger U bolt for the heavier dutier, the taller frames. There is a shorter one if you happen to have a 2500 with the light duty frame. We need to just work this above and below any of the electrical connectors or break lines. We don't want to wind up pinching anything so just guide it around all those. Then, they're going to slide through the two holes that are in the side plates there and we got a couple flange nuts to go in those on the outside. Once our U bolts come through we'll want to put a flange nut on those. All right, looks like we have everything started here. We'll go over to the passenger side and we'll repeat this exact same process. Only, we won't have to deal with that electrical bracket. Everything else will be just the same. Now, to get everything tightened down we start with the center section to the rails. Those are the first ones we want to snug and torch to the specifications listed in the instructions. Now, it's time for us to tighten down the side plates to our frame. We're going to start with our U bolt and then work to our three quarter inch bolt. Again, there's specific curt specifications for all of these so, make sure you get it right. Now, the last ones we'll be torching down will be the side plates to our cross rails. You can see a couple of oblong holes here in our center section. These are where our safety chains are going to go. The same on both sides here. What we need to is drill a hole up through the center in the lower part of the corrugation. So, you see there's a larger gap here than what there is here. That means this is the lower part of the corrugation. We want to drill a hole right up through the center of that. Use a paint marker there, mark the location for ourselves. Now, I'm going to use a small drill bit to go up through just to make sure it's where we want it. Then, we can drill our larger half inch hole back down from the top. By removing the exhaust hanger here closer to the back of the tail pipe we'll be able to pull down a little bit of that exhaust, give yourself a little bit more room to to get in there and make your holes. Now, see an area here where those four holes have come up through the bed liner I'm going to trim this rib off where that comes through, just so our safety chain can sit down and in there. Again, just like we did when we cut our hole. Just going to use a high speed rotary tool. All right, just want to test to make sure our safety chain goes in and out nice and smooth. We'll touch up those edges and get our other side done here. Now, under each of our U bolt legs here, we want to slide on a flat washer and one of our springs. Then, we've got another flat washer and then we follow that up with one of the nylon mocking nuts. Then, we'll tighten this down so that the threaded part of our U bolt is about even with the top edge of the nut there. Just about there. Then, we'll do that for the three remaining locations. Now, we'll take our double lock assembly. It's going to slide right in through this intersection. We're going to bring our handle up over our frame rail, through the whole that we've got right here in our side plate. Right at the second one here. Then, we'll take our compression spring and slide that on. The handle will slide into the double lock. Then, we'll just line up the hole that's in our handle here with the hole that's in our lock. Take our bolt and slide that through. That looks good so, let's put our nut on. Now, we'll get this secured even though we don't need to over tighten it, just get it snug. Now, by pulling out on our handle and rotating it clockwise our pin will be held into the open position. Now, if we rotate it counter clockwise the dull pins are going to come back through after we have our ball in place and that's going to hold everything nice and snug. If you had to remove your fender well liners, if you want to put those back in go ahead. Some trimming may be required. Also, get that spare tire back in place. Now, with everything torched down properly that's going to complete our installation on our 2009 Chevrolet Silverado 2500.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Timothy W.

I have a 2009 2500HD with a 6-1/2 foot bed. My installation booklet only shows an 8 foot bed and a 6 foot bed. How far do I measure from the back of the bed to center my hitch?

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jon G.

If you look on page 1 of the instructions it should say that for a short bed 1500 and 2500 the center of the hitch ball hole will be 44-1/4" from the back end of the truck (not including the tailgate).

Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Chris R
Video by:
Chris R

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