Curt Custom Underbed OEM-Style Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2019 Ram 2500

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How to Install the Curt Custom Underbed OEM-Style Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2019 Ram 2500


Rob: Hey everybody, it's Rob here at etrailer.com. Today we're going to take a look at the CURT gooseneck kit on a 2019 RAM 2500. Now our CURT gooseneck hitch is going to allow us to hook up to a gooseneck trailer and tow it down the road safely. But at the same time, it's going to allow us to remove the tow ball here and have full bed access. It's an extremely easy process, there's a little lever at the top. Just flip it up, rotate it, and then the ball will come right out.

And putting it in is just as easy, slide it in place, rotate the lever to where it's in line with that notch, slip it down. Now the ball's locked in place. Now what's going to keep the ball locked in is these ball-bearings, and that lever is what's actually activating those ball bearings.You can see now they're locked out, the ball's not going to be able to come out. But when we do lift the lever and rotate it, you can see it fall in and there's no pressure on them. It's a really easy process, and I actually prefer this style ball and gooseneck to get the ball in place rather than having the lever that's in the wheel well.

Because a lot of the times, sometimes they get stuck, they're not that easy to operate. And this is right here where we need to be. So once you unhook from your gooseneck and you want to take the ball out, you don't have to go over to the bed, come in the bed, pull the ball out everything is just one step, one easy way to do it. Now like all trailers, you need a spot to hook up your safety chains. So you can see here, we have a pretty good size hook that fits on there perfectly well.And there's actually plenty of more room, because this hook actually is fucking 00:01:35 loaded just like the other one.

So when we don't have our hooks in place, just going to sit, maybe it's an inch so, maybe a little bit less than an inch above the bed. When we do need it, we can easily pull it up and again there're spring loaded from the right back down, easy slide things over and use your bed if you need to. And those times when you're not towing, you take the goose ball out. And CURT actually provides you with this nice rubber cover, it's going to make sure that dirt, debris and anything else isn't going to get inside the gooseneck hole. And it makes it a lot easier to slide things in place.

You've got some gears and trolls or anything you need to get in the bed of your truck, it makes it nice and even so things are going to catch on the lip of anything.Now like most gooseneck hitches, it is going to come with a 2-5/16 inch ball. That is a pretty standard size for most gooseneck trailers and couplers. Now, another thing you do want to keep in mind is the load limit or the weight limit of our hitch. And the hitch is going to have a 35,000 pound gross trailer weight rating. Well, something you do need to keep in mind is that's the rating for the hitch. So I do urge you to check your RAM's owner's manual because you don't want to exceed the manufacturer's rating. One thing I do want to mention about our CURT gooseneck hitch is not compatible with the CURT X5 adapter. That's the adapter that puts rails into the bed of your truck so you can use a 5th wheel.It slides right into the gooseneck, it's not going to work with this gooseneck hitch. So I've installed quite a few goosenecks in my time, and I do have to say that this CURT kit is a very straightforward to install. There's no special tools required and we're not going to have to do any drilling or cutting on the frame. Now, obviously we are going to have to drill a few holes in the bed because the ball has to get in place and our safety chains have to get in place. But that's only five holes that we're going to have to drill, and again, nothing to deal with the frame. In fact, there's only one main component and that's going to be the center section of the hitch to get it installed. And it's not like the old style where we have to loosen the bed and possibly prop it up, everything fits from underneath.And since it is only one component, you can do it by yourself. I recommend getting an extra set of hands because it can be a little cumbersome to try to lift it above your head and get the bolts in place, but it is possible. Again, it's probably one of the most straightforward installs that I've done. And just so you have the confidence to do it at home, let's go through the process together. To begin our installation, we want to lower down our spare tire and then we can move underneath our truck. And we're going to have this heat shield right around where the spare tire was just in front of the muffler here. We're going to go ahead and pull this down just to make things a little bit easier for ourselves. We have four bolts that we see on the inside of that heat shield, so we'll use a 10 millimeter socket to pull those out.There's two more bolts holding the heat shield in place. They're going to be nearly impossible to see, but they're on the backside of where it mounts to this crossmember. One will be towards the outside of the heat shield towards the center, and then the other one is going to be towards the passenger side. There's still going to be 10 millimeter sockets, but maybe a little challenging to get in there to loosen them up. We may have to come from the side, reach in and get the socket on there. Once you have all the bolts removed, we'll pull the heat shield down and set it aside for now.Our next step is going to be lowering the exhaust down. We don't need to take the entire system down, but we do want to lower it down so we have a little bit more room to work with. So right here at the back, we'll have an exhaust hanger. Easiest way I've found to lower it down is to take some spray lubricant, spray the hanger down real good. And then we can take a pry bar, we just want to slide that rubber isolator off so that exhaust can come down. These are rather stiff, a little bit hard to get off, but just use the actual exhaust pipe to pry against. We should be able to slide that isolator off.And when this one is removed, we're going to go ahead and move forward a little bit on the exhaust system. And there's two more that we'll have to take down as well. I do want to mention, you can see this strap right here. I'm going to go ahead and unclip it, just a little clip on there. It's going to take that off, that way it doesn't do any damage when the exhaust comes down. I'd like to go ahead and point out the attachment points of where we're going to be putting our gooseneck in. If we find that center section right here where we got two pieces of metal right underneath the bed, we're going to have four round holes, two in the back and two in the front. One on each side of our truck.Those are where our bolts are going to be mounting through. We're just going to lift our center section up. I do want to mention it's pretty heavy, so you may want to get an extra set of hands and I'll go ahead and go over the hardware that's actually going to be going in place before we lift it up so it's a little bit easier to show. So once we have our center section lifted up, we're going to take a long bolt with a large flat washer. It's going to go through the crossmember through the center section, and we're going to secure it down with a flange nut. It's going to be the same combination for all four locations. But again, it's a lot easier to show you this now than trying to hold everything in place and get the bolts and nuts in place.So here's our center section, this is where the goose ball's going to go. But it is important that we put this in correctly. So this is going to be going up towards the top and these four holes, the two on each side, need to be going towards the front. They're a little bit offset and we want those to go towards the front. And before we actually lift this up, we need to make sure that we put this center locator. Drop it into the gooseneck hole, just like that. You don't need to secure down or anything, the pressure from lifting and into the bed will hold it in place fine. We want to make sure we put this in because this is going to come in handy so we can make sure we get the hole drilled in the exact right location. So with the help of an extra set of hands, we're going to lift the center section up. You do want to be mindful of the hoses right here, and the exhaust can move a little bit.While working around the hoses, get the front side it of first. We're going to make sure that center locator is in place, lift it up, and you want at least get a couple of bolts in place that'll help to support it. And for now you get one of the nuts hand tight so we can get the rest of the bolts in more than getting the rest of the hardware. I'm going to come back with an inch and 1-1/8 socket and wrench and tighten up my hardware. And I will let you know it is limited in space as you can see, so I'm going to be using a swivel to help me get a little bit of extra room.We're going to go through and snug down and tighten down all the hardware. I'm going to come back with a torque wrench, I'm going to torque all my hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. I will let you know it's pretty high, so you are going to need a torque wrench, at least a half inch torque wrench to torque these bolts down. Now, if the bolts are spinning, you are going to need to hold it with a wrench as well so we can make sure that it actually torque them down and it's not just spinning. We'll go back and we're going to repeat that for all of our remaining hardware. And at this point, we can get ready to drill the hole. Let's start on the bottom and drill from the bottom going up into the bed. If you remember when we put that center locator in, there's a very small hole in the center of it.And if we look up into the hole, we can see the center locator and that small hole is going to be for our pilot bit. So we're going to grab a 3/16-in drill bit, go into the gooseneck receiver and it will be a little bit difficult to see. But you can just get a feel for it, and you want to get the bit in that center hole. And then we want to drill that 3/16-in pilot bit all the way through the bed. So now that we have that hole drilled, we can move over to this side here. And when we have those four round holes, two on each side, those are going to be our safety chain loop locations. Now I'm going to go ahead and use the same pilot bit just to get a hole started. Just to make it a little bit easier on myself, I'll drill up from the bottom again. Just going drill a pilot hole and all four locations, and then we can come back and drill it out to the final size.Now the hole in the passenger side are going to be very difficult to get to because the exhaust is right in the way. Now we did loosen up those isolators, take them off. So there's some movement in the exhaust, so what I did was take a ratchet strap, find a secure point on the driver's side and then just pull the exhaust over. And now I'm able to get my drill in and drill straight up. Now this is just a temporary fix, easily as soon as we let the strap loose, the exhaust would go back to where it is. But it just makes it a lot easier to drill that hole. Now that pilot holes are drilled for our safety chain loops, I'm going to come back with an 11/16-in drill bit.Now I realize not all of us have that size drill bit, but what we can do is if you don't have one of these, you can use a half inch drill bit. Drill from the bottom going up, enlarge it to a full half inch. And then move to the top of the bed and use a step bit to step it up to an 11/16-in. But since I have an 11/16-in drill bit, I'm going to drill from the bottom, going up and going through the safety chain loops as a template. I'm going to go back and repeat that for the remaining three holes for our safety chain loops. Now that we have our four holes drilled and then pilot hole in the center, we want to move it to the top of the bed, and we're going to grab a three and one quarter inch hole saw.And we're going to use that pilot hole that we drilled earlier to center our hole saw, and we're going to start drilling through. And honestly, once you start seeing plastics are coming up, you know you're all the way through and you can stop drilling because we don't want to go into the gooseneck itself. So I'm going to use real light pressure, and then now that the hole saw is making contact with the bed. I'm going to turn my drill on high and again, use a very light pressure and just start drilling until I can start seeing that plastic from that centering device that we put in earlier.And you can see where it's starting to cut through, we can see that the blue plastic is there. So we just going to keep going until the center section will come out all the way, because as you can see, it's only about halfway cut through. Now that piece is cut out, we can remove that center section. And I always liked to come back to a file and some paint possibly if we hit the hitch and to cover the edges to help prevent any corrosion. So go ahead and vacuum up all the excess shavings, so we're going track them inside of our truck. And again, come back and file all five holes including the same with chain loops. Now, maybe a little difficult to file since the hitch is so close to the hole we cut. So you just want to be careful, you don't want it Scratch the hitch. But again, I like to take the sharp edges off so we won't have to worry about it when we're putting the ball in or taking it out.Now although we already have a bed liner in our truck, I don't like to leave any exposed metal on the vehicle. So I'm going to come back with some spray paint, cover up the areas that we drilled out. Now, since our bed liner is black, I'm going to use some flat black paint, but you can also use clear if you don't have a liner and you really don't want to change the color of your truck. And at this point we can grab our safety chain loops, you just want to take the two legs and drop them straight down, or we can move back underneath the truck and get ready to put the hardware in for those. So your bolts are dropping down, we want to grab one of the flat washers out of our kit, slide it over one of the legs, take a spring, slide it above that. And we're going to take another flat washer, sandwich it in there. And then we want to take one of the lock nuts, it's got these little dots on there. We want to tighten it up at least hand tight.It will get tight on you, but we're going to get all four of these springs, washers and nuts in place on each one of these. We want to come back and tighten these up just to where the bottom of the bolt is flushed or just barely coming out of the nut at the bottom. And to tighten up those locked nuts in the bottom, we're going to be using a 15/16-in socket. And you can also use a 24 millimeter, whichever one We have on hand. Do you see that bolt just flushed with the bottom We just going to give it a few more turns to adjust barely sticking out. We're going to repeat that for all the remaining nuts on our U-bolts that we have. So now that all the bolts and our gooseneck are tight, I'm going to go ahead and take the strap off that was supporting the exhaust, pulling it out of the way, then when you start putting all the rubber isolators and hangers back in place as well.Now, when you're putting your rubber isolators back on, it'll definitely help to spray a little more lubricant on the hanger and on the isolator, just makes things slide a lot easier and we won't have to fight it as much. And once you have everything back, don't forget to put the strap on as well. Just clip it back in place, slide those isolators back on. May help if you use a pry bar because they are pretty stiff, and even with the lubricant, they can be a little tough to slide on. Then we can get our heat shield back in place, I like to get a few bolts just loosely started, will help hold it up. Makes it a little bit easier to get these ones that are on a crossmember started because of the level of the plate so I'll have to reach and try to get everything perfectly lined up. I'm going to use that same 10 millimeter socket to tighten up those bolts.Now what we would like to do is put our spare tire back in place and we're ready to hit the road. Now, if you're not going to go ahead and hook up right away, CURT does give you this cover that we can slide right into the gooseneck hole to make sure it keeps all the dirt, debris and everything else out of there. It just gives it a nice clean look. Now, if you are ready to hook up and you need to put the ball in place, go ahead and grab the ball, and you'll notice on top we have this little lever. We're going to flip that lever up and turn it to the side and that'll release the ball-bearings, drop all in and rotate it back and make sure it latches down. Now it's locked into place. It's just that simple. But again, I'm Rob here at etrailer.com and that'll finish up your look at the CURT gooseneck on a 2019 RAM 2500.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Ricky R.

Question about this hitch. I have a 2017 dodge 2500 with the factory prep kit for a gooseneck and I also have a b&m champion RVB3500 gooseneck. Will this hitch work with both my factory pre prep kit under the bed and my fifth wheel adaptor? Or is there a better option?

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jon G.

The Curt Custom Underbed OEM-Style Gooseneck Trailer Hitch # C60633 is going to sit in the same spot as the B&W Gooseneck hitch or an OEM prep kit would sit. If you have either of those already installed on your 2017 Ram 2500 then you should be able to use the Hitch Ball # BWGNXA2000 for the B&W hitch or the Hitch Ball Kit # BWGNXA2062 if you have the OEM prep kit.

Reply from Ricky R.

@JonG my truck has the prep kit but not gooseneck hitch installed. The kit you recommended appears in the picture to have a round shank on the gooseneck ball but the shank on my 5th wheel has a square shank. So the two wouldn’t fit together.

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jon G.

@RickyR When you say gooseneck hitch are you talking about just the hitch ball or are you talking about that center hole in the truck bed? I've never heard of the OEM prep package having a square shank for any model truck so it makes me wonder if it was substituted with the center piece of the B&W gooseneck hitch.

Reply from Ricky R.

@JonG I don’t currently have a gooseneck hitch at all. Just the dodge prep kit under the truck. I need a kit that Works with my Prep kit but has a square shank not the round Shank in the ball.

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jon G.

@RickyR You might need to reach out to Dodge about that one as the only gooseneck hitch ball I know of that comes with a square shank is for the B&W setup.

Info for this part was:

Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Kathleen M
Installed by:
Kathleen M
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Aidan B
Video by:
Aidan B

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