bing tracking image

Demco SBS with Wireless Coachlink Installation - 2020 Jeep Gladiator

content loading

Customers compare DM26VR to these similar products

Products Featured in this Video

How to Install the Demco SBS with Wireless Coachlink on a 2020 Jeep Gladiator

Hi there, Jeep owners. Today on your 2020 Jeep Gladiator we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install Demco's Air Force One. Demco's Air Force One is designed to work with air brakes on your motor home, and it is a completely proportional system. If you have air brakes on your motor home, this is the recommended best braking system, as it is so proportional. The harder you press your brakes in your motor home the harder the brakes are going to be depressed here in the vehicle. And all that magic happens here inside of the operating unit here.

This is going to take the air that is coming from your motor home here, and it's going to transfer that to the operating cylinder located on the pedal. It also taps into your brake booster, so that way you have power assist as well, so it's a nice, smooth operation. In addition to that, you're going to get a breakaway switch. So in the event that you did have a catastrophic disconnect the pin would pull and that would apply the brakes in your vehicle to help it come to a safe stop. Now we're gonna go ahead and pull the pin so you can see the system activating.

And you can see that it applies our brake pedal and that will also illuminate the indicator for your CoachLink system inside your motor home. There's five main components you'll need when flat towing your vehicle behind your motor home: You'll need your tow bar, which is the connection between your motor home and your vehicle, your safety cables, which is a supplemental connection in addition to your tow bar in the event of a catastrophic disconnect. You'll also need your base plate, which provides the connection point on your vehicle for your tow bar and safety cables to attach to as well as often places for your wiring as well. You'll also need your diode wiring which will take all the lighting signals from your motor home and transfer it to your vehicle so people behind you will know your intentions when going down the road, and your supplemental braking system which will apply the brakes in your vehicle when you hit them in your motor home to help you come to a smooth and safe stop. And now I'm in the coach, and when I hit the brakes here in the coach, it's gonna apply the brakes to the back, and when the brakes at the back apply, it should send a signal up to the CoachLink here, which will ensure that we know that our brakes are working back there.

And when you press the brakes in your motor home it's going to apply the brakes in the vehicle at the back. You'll see that, as well as see the indicator from the CoachLink here, light up. And when the indicator lights up, we know that the brakes had to have been depressed in the vehicle, because this comes directly from the read switch on the pedal showing that it's activating. We'll start on our motor home. The first thing we want to do on the motor home is to mount the major components.

There's really just two major components that we need to mount. And that's the inflation valve here in the back. This is actually going to send the air towards our vehicle. We just mounted this up right here at the back using the provided hardware. We took a 5/16 drill bit and drilled out a couple of holes and then just attached it with that hardware. We uses an 11 millimeter socket and wrench to tighten it down. We had to put large fender washers on top because this is a fiberglass panel. So that's going to give us some extra surface area. Those did come included with the kit, so that's all part of that hardware. Next we'll need to mount the air tank. This reservoir tank can mount really anywhere you want on the motor home. I like to go as close to the axle as possible because that's where we're going to be tapping into the air brakes. And you only get so much line in your kit, so the closer your tank is to where you tap in you'll be able to utilize less line and make sure that you've got enough. The tank we just used, you can use any of the holes you really want on here. We try to use staggering ones in each corner. You'll get two bolts, nuts and washers here to attach it with. And we just used a 3/8 drill bit to drill out the holes here, lining up with the pre-existing ones in the plate that the tank comes pre-attached to, and we just tighten those out. The tank here has three air lines on it. There is one here, at the top and there's two here down at the bottom. And this doesn't, this can be oriented really any way we want. It's just in the top in that particular instance that I've got it installed here. The bottom one here, this air line, is routed towards the fitting that we mounted in the back. The line just above it here and the one on top we have to tap into existing fittings on our motor home to get the supply air. that's going to fill the tank and also our trigger that's going to send it to the connector at the back. So next we're going to be going underneath the motor home to tap into those lines. Typically you'll find them just in front of the rear axle right at about the center of the motor home. So we're going to crawl into there now. So now we're underneath the motor home just in front of the rear axle. And if we look up, we can see our relay valves here. So you've got relay block there and you've got another relay block here. We need to tap into the supply line. That's typically the largest line that goes to, usually it's the upper relay block. The lower relay block you can tell will go to the actual bags, the, the actual brake drums. So this one here doesn't connect to the chambers. You can see it's got the large green line on it. This is our supply line. To tap into this, we just cut the line and then we slide each end into our quick-connect fitting that comes with our kit. And then the third line here we just slide our quarter inch line in and then this routes back towards our tank towards the supply location, which is the single one that's on the one side of the tank that just has one valve on that one side with the arrow pointing towards the tank. That's our supply line, so we poke the other end in there. Before cutting this valve, you want to make sure you remove the air out of the system and this can easily be done with just having your motor home turned off and then just press the brakes. Any time you press the brakes it's gonna deplete some of the air pressure. Do that until all the air pressure is depleted. Then you can cut this. If you're uncertain which line is the supply line, you'll want to drain that air out first, and then come back here and just disconnect this line. These are quick-connect fittings, so you just push in on the fitting and you can pull the line out. The little ring here is what you push in on to release it. You can pull the line out and then start your motor home and feel if you feel air pressure coming out of it. If there's air pressure coming out of it that's your air compressor in the front of the vehicle, or in the back, wherever your compressor is, it's what's supplying air to the system, and that's going to be the proper line so you can go ahead and plug that back up and then cut it and add it in. Next, we need to tap into the metered air connection. That's going to be the black line located right here. This is typically going to go from one relay block to another relay block. And the other relay block that it goes to is going to actually connect to the brake chambers. It's going to have the large black hoses that go to the brake chambers on each side. This line only has air pressure on it when the brakes are being depressed. So this was an easy one to check because you can just remove the line. You can have an assistant press the brakes and if air comes out of the line then you know you've got the correct line. Well, then just cut it in the same way. You'll have a fitting that comes in your kit. 3/8 fitting for these smaller, for the smaller meter air connection. They just poke in there. Here you can see the metered air connection. This is just like the supply one. It's just a smaller size cause it's designed for the appropriate size for your metered air connection. You'll just simply slide those into the quick-connect and then a quarter inch line that comes in your kit. will slide in the small end, and that's going to route back to the last fitting on our air tank. We're now over on the vehicle side. We're gonna mount the major components over here as well. We'll start with our operating unit and we just mounted this right to the top of our fuse panel. I took the ears here and I just kind of bent them down slightly. Couldn't bend it all the way straight down cause it wouldn't fit over the covers, so just slight bend on each side. That'll help center it on the cover. And then I just marked out the holes that are preexisting in the operating unit and I drilled them out and then attach it to the lid using the zip ties that come included with the kit. This is a nice spot for it because it's out of the way and we can still access our fuses if we need to. We then mounted our breakaway switch and our air fitting here at the front. The air fitting, there's a pre-existing screw here. That's a factory screw. We just removed that. And then we screwed it back in. The other hole on the bracket here, we just ran a self-tapper straight up into it. And if you look on top, you'll see there's a couple of washers that I stacked up on top of it. That was to help make it even all the way across because to the left of that there you'll see there's another metal plate here. This metal plate is just a small piece of metal we had laying around. I just sat it on top and I bent a 90 degree in it here so we'd have an attachment point for the breakaway switch and this way you can bend it down to get a cleaner look or bend it up when you're ready to use it. The bracket here, I just marked out the holes and drilled them using a 5/16 drill bit until it lined up with the holes in the air fitting bracket here. And then it all just ran right up into the bumper. The breakaway switch mounted to that piece of metal that I bent using its hardware that comes included in its little separate bag that comes with your kit. The bolt and the washer go on this side and then it's just a nylon locking nut on the other side to attach it. We used a 11 millimeter socket and wrench tighten that down. We're now inside the vehicle on the driver's side. We mounted the actuating cylinder to the pedal here. Just simply remove the nut that is on the cylinder, slide off this metal brace here. We'll then slide the studs over the pedal, slide the brace back on and then re-install the nuts. I didn't use any ratchet to tighten it down. I just used the socket on the nut. So I just had it in my hand and I just tightened it down all the way around until it was nice and snug. Cause we don't want to over-tighten this to where we bend it. We just want a nice, good clamping force and you can see this thing's on here pretty strong. It's not going anywhere. And that's all just tightened by hand. You can get it fairly tight, just doing it by hand. At the back side of our cylinder here there's a cable that comes out of it. This goes to the anchor that needs to attach to the firewall. You can see that right here. I used a razor knife to cut out a little bit of the rubber area here. So we had some exposed sheet metal to run this in. And then I just took the anchor and the included self-tapping screw and ran it right into the firewall there. We positioned it in a way that it was going to give us a nice straight line from our cylinder to the firewall because we don't want to have an angle on it as that cable can rub against the back of the cylinder if it's not pulling straight, and it can eventually wear and damage our cable. At the front of our cylinder, you'll notice that we've got the little wire right here coming out. This is our reed switch that'll activate and let us know when the brakes are being depressed. Simply slide the reed switch in the slot right here. And then there's a very small screw, little set screw up there that you'll use a very small flat screwdriver to tighten that down and that'll lock the reed switch into its bracket. Next we mounted up the CoachLink. That is our wireless indicator that's going to send a signal to the wireless unit that'll be in your motor home. We simply mounted this using the included hook and loop fastener. We stuck it onto the back side and then we set the other hook and loop fastener onto the metal right up there and then just stuck it to it. That way we can just easily pull it on and off as we need to. Of course, we really shouldn't ever need to pull it off so I went ahead and put a zip tie on it there to ensure that it stayed in place. With all of our major components mounted, we can start wiring it up. So we're going to start here with our reed switch since we're inside. If we go follow the black wire from the reed switch down, you'll see it has three wires on it. It has a blue, it has a black, and it has a brown. The blue wire is actually our ground wire for the reed switch. And you'll see I'm using this weird tristar. This comes in your kit here this little three butt connector. So we connected the blue to one prong. We connected the white wire from the CoachLink to the other prong because the CoachLink needs ground as well. And then I just uses a little bit of extra of the white wire that was on the CoachLink. It has a lot on there and we're just going from here to there. So I just used a little bit of piece of that extra white wire from the CoachLink to attach to the last spot on here. And then that just runs up to a ring terminal that I put on the other end. And then I just ran that ring terminal in place. The ring terminal here we attached to a screw that was preexisting here. So we just loosened that up with a 10 millimeter socket, slid our ring terminal on it and then reattached the bolt to get our ground. Next, we'll hook up our black wire. The black wire is actually the output from the reed switch. So this is what's going to hook to the red wire from the CoachLink. And so this is what's going to send a signal out and it's going to tell us that our system's activated. The last connection that we have on here from our reed switch is a brown wire. The brown wire on the reed switch is the power source. We do need a power source to make the reed switch operate. We went ahead and used some extra brown wire cause you do get some extra brown wire in your kit. We attached the brown wire to the brown wire here and then we routed this out the firewall through a pre-existing grommet to get it out into our engine compartment where we can hook to our battery. While we're here, we also want to route the airline outside and this actually works as a great pull wire for getting things in and out your air line tubing. So I went ahead and took one end of the air line tubing and poked it into our cylinder here and the rest of the air line tubing I fed out through our grommet and the grommet is up pretty high. You can see the brown wire where it's going up to it and our air line. We just poke those through there and get them out into our engine compartment. where we can finish our making our connections. So here you can see the other side of our grommet, and I actually, what I did, before I slid the wires through it, I actually pulled that grommet out on the outside here first. I found it a little bit easier, and I poked a hole through it and then put the grommet back in. So here's our wires that come out through it here on the outside. These need to go across towards our battery. So just shoot, and we just slide it in with underneath there and zip tie it along the way until we get over to the other side. Once we get over to the other side we're going to cut our air line to the proper length and plug it into the air out indicated right here. The brown wire will then continue running over towards the battery here. And you can see our brown wire here. I took what was left of our brown wire and I cut that and then I attached both pieces of brown wire then, after stripping them, to a butt connector. This is a heat shrink cause this is outside the vehicle. You can get these here at etrailer if you want to upgrade your regular butt connectors to heat shrink. I highly recommend it for anything outside the car. That'll connect to our fuse harness. Your fuse harness is going to come looped. So just cut it. I like to just cut it in the middle. Strip back each end. One's going to go to that butt connector. And the other end of that fuse harness is going to attach to a ring terminal and then we can attach it to our battery. Now I do recommend leaving the fuse out of the harness until you;ve finished all of your flat tow installation or at least your braking system installation, so that way you don't cause any shorts along the way. Now this brown wire here that we're continuing on with is actually going to go to our breakaway switch at the front. So we just continue going around. We actually go around the battery and here's our breakaway switch wire right here. You'll you have an orange wire coming off your breakaway switch. That's going to connect to the brown wire here cause we need power going into the breakaway switch. Since we're right here as well you can see here is another wire. This is also coming from our breakaway switch. This is the black wire. This one we'll run over and attach to one of the black wires on our operating unit here. So we just attached it to one of those wires. The other wire here on our operating unit actually just runs right over here and gets a ring terminal attached to it and we put it on the ground stud located right here. Cause we need to ground out our system. That way if the pin's ever pulled power goes down the brown, hits the unit, and it's grounded here so it can operate it in the event we have a catastrophic disconnect. We can now go back to our operating unit here and focus on getting the rest of our hoses attached. So we've got the air out which is going to our cylinder inside. Next we're going to jump over to our air in. We need air to come into this unit to activate the cylinder that's on the pedal. So this is going to route down. And then I actually route it around the battery. I found it was a safer path to travel. We kind of go around the air box and then we go down here at the front and we just go straight down. And once it comes down behind the frame we just bring it right up here and poke it through. I drilled a little hole right there in the under shield and we just poked that through that hole and attached it right into the quick-connect on our fitting here at the front. Now that we've got our air fittings hooked up we need to get our vacuum hooked up. You're going to get some 3/8 vacuum line in the kit. You'll want to cut about an inch and a half or so off of it, place it onto the operating unit. And then we're going to put one of the check valve that come in our kit here. We want the black side to face towards the operating unit. The rest of our line is going to go over towards our brake booster where we need to tap in over there so that way we can have power assist from our system. Cause it'll actually pull a vacuum on here when it applies pressure to the actuator inside, giving us power brakes. So we can see our connections here. The factory line kind of just comes up and it does a little 90 degree bend and it goes on towards the engine. We cut out the 90 degree bend cause we're going to put a tee fitting in here. We cut another small section of hose. We slid it over the factory line and then we attached it with a hose clamp. We slid our tee down in there. We then cut another small section of hose. We go on one side of the tee here. We put the check valve in it. We have two check valves with this system. The second check valve, we want the black side to face away from the booster towards the engine. We go with another small piece of hose. We're just cutting little sections out of the large hose, the long set of hose that comes in the kit, and then we attach it to the factory hose with another hose clamp. On top of the last section of our tee fitting here, will go over to that long section that's going into the operating unit. Now that we have all of our components installed, Aal that's left is to place our vehicle into flat tow hook it up, and hit the road. You want to plug your CoachLink into your motor home So you can verify that your system is operating properly when going down the road. And that completes our installation of Demco's Air Force One on our 2020 Jeep Gladiator..

Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Kathleen M
Installed by:
Kathleen M
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Schuyler H
Video by:
Schuyler H

At we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.