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Demco SBS with Wireless Coachlink Installation - 2021 Jeep Gladiator

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How to Install the Demco SBS with Wireless Coachlink on a 2021 Jeep Gladiator

Hey everyone, Shane here with Today I have a 2021 Jeep Gladiator. I'm going to walk through how to install the Demco Air Force One supplemental braking system The Air Force One is going to be designed for motorhomes with air brakes. It's going to be a truly proportional system. So when you match that, when you compare it to some of the other systems, like the Demco Stay-IN-Play duo that work off of a signal coming from the light, this one is actually working off of air pressure coming from the brakes on the motorhome. What it does is when you apply the brakes in the motorhome, it sends air pressure through this line, into the system, into an excavator mount on the brake pedal arm.

So it's going to match the amount of pressure that you're applying in the motorhome. The braking system is going to be one of the five main components needed to flat tow the gladiator. The other four are going to be your base plate, which attaches to the chassis of the vehicle to give you that solid connection point for your tow bar, your tow bar, which gives you that connection point between your base plate and your motorhome, your safety cables, which act as a secondary safety device and you're wiring. Your wiring is going to be designed to allow the vehicle while it's being flat towed, to receive light functions from motorhome, whether that's braking, turning or driving at night so that everybody around you knows what you're doing. The breaking system is going to come with everything needed to get it installed, including your cable that runs between the front of the vehicle and the motorhome.

Now, there's a couple of different kits for this particular setup. Let's say we have a motorhome that's already set up, we've already been told with it, but we go out and buy a new vehicle, we can get a second vehicle kit and just install on the, on the tow vehicle side so that our motorhome can pull it or vice versa. Maybe we have a car that we already tow and we already have that system on, we'd go out and buy a new motorhome. You can buy a second vehicle kit just for the motorhome side, we don't have to buy the whole system. However, you can buy the whole system if you're setting it up brand new for the vehicle and the motorhome side.

Now, if we're not flat towing the vehicle, or we want to disconnect, run ticker airline fitting right here, we're going to pull back on it. That's going to disconnect it. Our kit is going to come with a cap that's going to cover that hole. So we don't have any dirt and debris that gets clogged in there. We're also going to have one for the motorhome side.

When connecting to your air fittings, when connecting your line to your fittings, you want to make sure when you push it on, push it on and give it a little tug, that way you know, it's not going to come disconnected. You're going to have a actuator that mounts to the brake pedal arm in the towed vehicle, you can see the airline tube that runs to it. That airline tube is what is pushing air pressure into that actuator. When the air pressure fills up that actuator, as you apply the brakes, it's going to separate the two cylinders. There is a wire that attaches to the firewall. When it fills up with air that wire's going to pull and that air pressure is going to help separate those two and that's what is going to apply the brakes in the vehicle when you go to stop or slow down. You'll notice the reed switch that's mounted on the top of the actuator. When you install this, you get it all hooked up to the battery, if you find that the light on the reed switch is on. If you loosen the bolt on the very top or the screw on the very top, you can slide the clamp along that cylinder just a little bit until the light shuts off. This kit is also going to come with a breakaway switch. When attaching this tether from the breakaway switch to the motorhome side, it needs to be attached to the safety cable loop on the, on the hitch. Do not attach to the safety cables. The reason we do that is if for some reason, anything comes disconnected and the vehicle separates, this pen needs to be able to pull. When this pin is pulled it applies the brakes in the vehicle to bring it to a stop so it's not bouncing around down the highway causing an accident or hurting or killing someone else. Now when comparing the new Demco Air Force One to the last generation of Air Force One supplemental braking system, the last generation would come with an indicator light that would get mounted on the tow vehicles, rear view mirror and when you applied the brakes in the motorhome that led light would light up, so you could see it in the camera, on the back of your motorhome. The problem they found is if the sun is glaring straight down on your windshield, on the towed vehicle, sometimes it drowns out the light so you wouldn't be able to see it, so you may not know whether your brakes are being applied on the vehicle, so what they did is they upgraded to this. This is what we call a coach link. On the motorhome side it just plugs directly into a 12 volt outlet. On the backside it's going to have a buzzer on and off, so you can either have it when you apply the brakes, the buzzer will go off or not. When you go to plug this in, once you set your vehicle up, you plug this in and you make sure the keys are on here. If these three lights are lit up, that means you didn't check the reed switch on the actuator and adjust that. If they're not lit up, then you're good to go. You'll notice the power. If we apply the brakes, you'll see the lights light up. That's telling us that the brakes are being applied in our towed vehicle. To start our installation we're going to start by mounting the operating unit. This can be mounted anywhere on the vehicle inside or outside. We're going to have three airlines that have to come off of this. One of them has to go down to the front, one of them is going to go across an inside to the actuator, then we'll have a vacuum line that has to go over and tie into our brake booster. Typically what I find is it's easy to mount these right on top of your fuse panel lid, because we can just zip tie it on there, put a couple of holes in it and zip ti it on there and then we only one line that has to come out and run down. The other two can run straight across the back here and over to that side so it stays nice and clean. If we have to get in here for any reason, we just take this and set it aside, we don't have to disconnect anything. So, we're going to pull this lid off and then we'll make our holes and get this mounted on there. Essentially, this is what our operating unit's going to look like on the lid. These tabs right here are going to come straight out. You can bend them down if you want like I did, just be careful that you don't break them off and then drill a hole here and here, run a zip tie through it. It holds that on and it doesn't mess with the legend on the bottom, and it allows you to get in and out of your fuse panel if you need to. Now we have two black wires. We're gonna take either one and we're gonna route one back like this. we're going to add a ring terminal on it. I'm going to ground it right there. 10 millimeter socket. That's what we need to mount our breakaway switch. There's a plate that's welded onto this base plate that allows us to mount out here. We're going to have two wires coming off it, and we need to get up into the engine compartment or inside the vehicle. So, straight back from this plate in this plastic panel, I'm going to drill a small hole that I can get those two wires back in there. Go ahead and feed our two wires through. The back of this pan is accessible from underneath the vehicle. You're gonna have a bolt with a flat washer and throw it on like that, then we'll have a nylon lock nut to put on the bottom. Seven 16th socket and wrench will tighten that down. Next we need to extend both of these up to the battery. The black wire is going to get connected to the second black wire on the operating unit, this orange wire is going to get connected to the positive side of the battery with a fuse holder, and then had a wire that runs inside and the hook to the reed switch, which we'll show you later on. We'll start with the black wire. I recommend using heat shrink butt connectors. They're not going to come in your kit, but will help protect your connections because they are outside. They'll keep it from corroding. Now we're going to take our heat source, we'll shrink that up. I'm going to go ahead and cover the butt connector with some electrical tape as well. So I put a black wire on each one, or I extended them with a black wire I'm going to take the orange one at the end of it, I'm going to mark it so that I know that this one, when I get up there, is going to be the one that I need to connect to my brown wire, to the battery and run it inside the vehicle. Since our battery's on our passenger side, we want to make sure when we route it we're staying away from anything hot or moving. I went straight over to the frame around here to the outside. You'll notice there's a hard line right there. What I might do is I'm going to cover this with wire loom and I'm going to zip tie my wire right onto that hard line, it'll keep it from moving around. So we're going to take the bundle of airline tube. We want to make sure we're not cutting it, just a big piece off 'cause we're gonna need the extra length for the RV side. We're only going to cut off what we need. So we'll take our airline tube, I'm going to feed it right back behind my grill, straight down, instead of drilling another hole, I'm going to route it right through this opening through my base plate. We're going to go ahead and connect one end. We're going to wrap the other end that's going to our operating unit in such a way that it can stay hidden. What I did is I ran it straight underneath in this gap here where my air cleaner is, we're going to take her line, we want to make sure we're not doing any bends. We can curb it, we just don't want it kinked and the port that is going to be going in is the air out, oh, air in, I'm sorry, we're going to go to the air in. So we're going to loop it in a way so we can get it in that port and we don't have any bends or kinks in it. We'll go ahead and cut it. I'm not going to install it, I'm just going to get an idea. Make sure we're good there. Okay, now we're going to take this airline tube now that we've got it, cut to length and we're going to use it to pull up our wiring and then we'll go ahead and after we get our wiring up, we'll go ahead and reconnect our hose to the operating unit, into the fitting on the front. To disconnect your line from your fitting, all you're going to do, if you can see that ring, you're just going to push the line in, push that ring and then pull out. Take this right here. There are two wires attached to it, pull it up and route them the same way our airline tube is. Once you get your line back down, before you connect it to the fitting, you want to make sure that the end is cut flush, we don't have any kinks in it, or it's not pinched together. If you have little burrs on there, if you take your fingers, kind of rubbing them like that, go knock them off. I suggest using some airline tube cutters. If you don't have any, you can find some here at etrailer. You're going to push it all the way in tight, so you kind of feel it, click. I'm going to take that airline, I'm just going to lay it in between my fuse box and my battery. We're going to go right to the air in port on the front of our unit, main unit. Now my line's not zip tied anywhere, so if we had to get in here, we can take this and just set it aside, we don't have to mess with taking anything off of there. The line that I did not mark, that goes to the second black wire on my operating unit, I just ran it right along this wall here, behind all of this and this is my second wire. So what I'm going to do, I'm going to cut this wire about right here to make the connection with a heat shrink butt connector, then when I tuck it down, the extra wire back here, we can take it and tuck it back down in there, so again, we have plenty that if we take this off, we don't have to mess with anything. Now we're going to take the black wire, flip to the orange wire that we marked. We're going to route it the same way, only we're going to go all the way around the front of our fuse box. From here, we can use the existing wire holders that are running here, kind of hold that wire in place there. You're going to need your fuse holder and your brown wire. We're going to cut this black wire right about here, strip it back, we're going to take our brown wire, trim back the end of it, we're gonna tie these two ends together, put on another heat ring butt connector, take our fuse holder, cut it in half, strip back both ends. One end, goes in the butt connector, the other end, we're going to put a ring terminal on it and that's, what's going to get connected to the positive side of the battery, which we'll do that in a later step. We're going to take our brown wire and we need to route it all the way across to the other side. Take the extra airline tube that you got your kit. We're not going to cut it yet, we're going to take our brown wire, airline tube, and I routed them right through these brackets, straight across the top of our firewall. Before I cut this bundle, I'm just going to take it, I'm going to tuck it right here. what we need to do is we need enough over there that we can run it through a grommet to the inside of the vehicle on the driver's side floorboard. Since this is an automatic, there's a grommet right here on the firewall. It's a large plastic one. It's going to be easier to drill this out from the inside. All they're going to do is put a hole on it big enough That we can get our airline tube and our brown wire through. What we're gonna do is you're gonna come inside the brake pedal, you're going to come all the way over to the sidewall and then look straight up. It's pretty open so you can't miss it. That's the ground that we're going to be going through. As I mentioned, it's going to either go from the inside, drill the hole through the outside. So as you can see I was drilling and that popped up that ground out. If it comes out, no big deal, go ahead and finish drilling the hole and then we can pop it back into place. Once we cut our airline tube down to size, you can insert it if you want and it's going to come out the same way as it did on the other one, simply pushing in, push that ring and then you can slide it out. If I leave it in this slot here, where I ran it to begin with, it goes against everything that I was trying to do, where we can take this and move it if we need to, without having to disconnect anything. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to take it out of this one, we'll, connect it in that port and I'll run a zip tie on it right there so that if for some reason they have to get in here, they can just cut the zip tie and just slide it over. Next we're in need our vacuum line and you're gonna need one check valve. We're gonna come up about three, four inches, we're going to cut it, we're going to put the black end in the short side gaps it in, on to the white side. This is gonna go into this vacuum port on the end of our unit. We're going to route this over to the driver's side of the engine compartment. Now this is completely up to you, I like to cover up my wiring, protect it, kind of make it look, factory installed as much as possible. I'm going to take some wire loom, I'm going to go over my airline tube and this brown wire, and then we can take our vacuum line, throw some tape on here real quick. We gonna take our vacuum line and our airline tube and we can zip tie everything right to here at once. Once we have our vacuum line ran over, I ran it around over here, along the sidewall, and driver's side. You need to go to your brake booster and you need to find this line. You should only have one vacuum line coming out of it. We are going to have to tie this line into this, and we're going to, what we're going to do is we're gonna cut part of this off and we're going to create a line in here with a check valve and a T-fitting that we can connect this into it and you'll notice how it bends and then wraps down and around. We need to make sure when we do this line, we don't have it kinked. We can put a slight bend in it, but we don't want it to kink, 'cause we don't want to lose any air pressure anywhere in the fittings. So I think what I'm going to do is I'm going to cut this line about right here and I'm going to go down and I'm going to cut it right down here. It's kind of hard to see, right about here, and then I'll make in line to go from one end to the other, with my check valve and my T in the middle. I'm going to cut off about this much, get an idea where this is going to run here. I'm gonna come about three inches back, we're gonna cut it. This is what our T-fitting looks like. We're going to take the short end and we're gonna get it on to where it covers all three of the barbs. We're gonna take this piece, we're going to put it on the other end. We're gonna come a couple of inches up, we're gonna cut this line, we're going to add in our check valve. The black side is going to go towards the engine, the white side is going to go towards the booster. Like that and then we'll add this one on here and this is going to take place over the line that I'm going to be cutting out from the factory brake booster line. We're going to take one of these clamps, we're going to slide it over and we're going to slide our line onto it, then we'll tighten this clamp down right on the end of that hose. You don't want to over tighten this 'cause if you over tighten this it's going to squeeze this plastic line and it's going to create a gap. So we just want it tight enough that the hose stays on or the vacuum line stays on and it doesn't create a loop. Slide this into the other end of our vacuum line. Take the end of our vacuum line, we're going to slide it over our T. This is the actual way that it's going to get mounted on the brake pedal arm. Your kit is going to come with some longer bolts. The brake pedal arm on this vehicle is too thick for these bolts to be able to put the nut and the plate on the opposite side, so what we're going to have to do, we're going to pull this plate off, we're going to install these longer ones. Allen ranch, you're going to remove these two bolts, you're gonna pull the plate off, and then we're going to remove those bolts and then install the new ones. You'll notice this guy here with a wire thing off it, it's not going to come installed on the actuator. I recommend installing this root switch on here before you install this on the brake pedal arm, there's a little bitty flathead screw right there at the end. They can be a little bit difficult to try to get to when it's on the arm. So install it first and then install this on the arm. We want to install this on the arm so it's high enough that when you put your foot on the brake pedal, you don't hit this end, this elbow, this is where our airline tube is going to go into. This, this plastic, we don't want to break it off and we don't want to potentially cause an accident because our foot gets caught on it, but we went up high enough that we don't hit it, but we don't want it so high that it doesn't pull on the brake pedal when we need it to. This bracket here is going to attach to the firewall so that as the air pressure comes inside the cylinder, this cable is going to pull this bracket on the arm, it's going to fill the cylinder and that's, what's going to apply the brake. The back of this bracket here has an Allen head on it. What we're going to have to do is we're gonna mount this where we want it, and we're going to adjust the length, so that this is sitting against the firewall. We want about an eighth inch of play in this line. We don't want it to snug because we don't want our brake pedal to be, or our brakes to be applied all the time. We want a little bit of play in it. So we'll start with this. We're just going to mount it on the arm. You're going to have a plate, comes on it like this, it's going to go on the opposite side of the arm and you'll have four nuts that go on. So we're going to get this on and kind of get it snugged up here, so hold itself in place and then we'll move to getting your bracket onto the firewall and we're not going to fully tighten this down just yet, we're just folding it up. We can kind of move it, get an idea of where we need to place it. So what we need to look at is how our brake pedal arm moves. This one moves fairly straight back. We want this line, when we mount this to be in a straight line. We don't want to mount it down here and we don't want to mount it too high or too off to the side because then it will pull the cylinder, it will actually pull on the backside here, one way or the other and it won't allow this to pull the brake pedal arm forward. We want this to be as straight as possible. So give us an idea here. It looks like right in this area, we can always adjust this just a little bit if we need to if you mind when you're bringing this in down, you're get them close to the brake pedal so, so, now that we've got an idea of where we're going to put this bracket, we can go ahead and take this back off. We need to get all the way back to the metal on the firewall. We're going to cut kind of a rectangle. You're going to have a plate that comes in your kit, it's going to look like this, it's going to have three holes in it. You're also going to get three self tappers. The self tappers that come with the kit are really long. I don't ever use them, I switch them out for a little bit shorter ones, but I do like using the bracket because we can put a self-tapper in the bracket here and then mount our bracket here with another self-tapper because the firewalls on a lot of the newer vehicles are very thin and self-tapper don't like to hold that bracket in place very long. With having two or even three self-tappers in place we don't have to worry about the one going to our actuator backing up. Before we put our self-tappers in you want to make sure you look on the outside in the engine compartment on the firewall to make sure that when you put those tappers in, they're not going to go into anything. So we got our bracket on the firewall in place. We have the length we need, and we can always move this back and forward just to give us a little extra slack in that line. What we need to look at is if we need to loosen this and slide this, this portion up over here. I don't think I'm going to have to do that, I think it looks like it's going pretty straight onto it. I think now we can just adjust this here and make sure we have enough slack in our line. Bring your head, install our plate, the nuts and if we want to you can come back and you can cut it down shorter so they're not in the way. Now we can get our airline tube put in place. All we need to really do is cut it down in size. Again, we want to make sure this one's pretty easy because it comes straight in from the firewall to here. We don't want to have a whole lot of stuff up above it that we have to worry about trying to go around. You just want to make sure again, we don't have any kinks and we don't have any real big bends in there, or small bends anywhere. We're just going to measure it up, and then we'll cut it down to size and get it installed on the actuary, and we go into this thing the same way it did the other one. Want you to push it in so that it clips. Give it a little tug and make sure that it's in there. This is going to be our wireless transmitter for our couch link. The coach link actually will mount or will sit inside the motorhome and this is what is going to give it to signal, to tell it when the brakes are being applied in the vehicle. Right up here in this corner, we're just going to zip tie it right to the aluminum brief that's there. On the end of our coach link, we have two wires, a red and a white. In your kit, you're going to have a connector that looks like this. We're gonna connect one end to the white wire on our coach link. We're going to take the blue wire from our reed switch on our actuator, we're going to hook it into one of the other ones. The blue wire on our reed switch is our ground wire and we're going to take an extra piece of wire, we're going to run it off off through here and we're going to ground it right up here underneath the dash. There's an existing bolt right here that we'll be able to add a ring terminal onto the wire and then we can go right to that ground. We'll take our red wire, butt connector that comes in the kit, it's going to attach to the black wire on the reed switch. We're going to make sure we do not cut these ends off. These wires are very thin and it is hard to strip them down without turning up the wire itself, and then finally, the brown wire that we fed in with our airline tube, is going to connect to the brown wire on our reed switch. What, the extra piece of brown wire that you cut off, you can use that as a ground, but we're just going to cut a big enough length off that we can take all of this when we're done and bundle it up and be able to put it up inside here to tax the factory wiring. So we just want to make sure it's long enough that we're able to do that. The panel off, here's the vault right here. Remove that bolt, add that to it, take the rest for wire, bundle it up, up here where it's up out of the way. Last thing we need to do here is connect the power wire to the battery. Make sure the fuse isn't in the fuse holder, 12 millimeter socket, you may wanna remove one of the nuts here. This one is empty, that's why I chose that one. Once we get that on install our fuse. Now you've got the vehicle side done, we'll move to the installation on the motorhome side. So the first thing we need to do is we need to determine where we're going to mount our tank. The best places that we find, you can mount it to the frame rail. A lot of times you're gonna have to drill through the frame rail and that usually takes quite a while. A lot of times, these boxes are pretty wide open around the outside, these storage compartments. I'm going to be installing the bow that goes on the back on the passenger side, so I'm going to install my tank on the passenger side. What I'm going to do is I'm going to mount it right down on this corner. My lines that I'm going to be running through it are up in front of this, right above the rear axle. So I can run them over top the frame rail, right down into my tank and then from here, straight back to the valve that will be installed later on. So this is what our tank looks like. You're going to have several holes on it. I'm going to use one of the bottom ones and one of the top ones. I'm just going to get an idea, cause I'm going to get it as far this way as I can. So I'll mark the hole spot there, I'm gonna take a drill bit and you want to make sure you check on the other side, make sure you don't have any wiring or anything over there, and we're gonna drill right through this box here. So it's going to be mounted on the outside like this. I'm going to put one up here and one down here in this corner. We're going to do is we're going to take one bolt flat washer, we're going to push it through that hole. We're gonna go out and we're going to mount this with a flat washer and lock nut and then we'll take a, 90 degree with the drill bit and we're going to drill out this bottom corner hole. Maybe a good idea if you have a second set of hands to help hold that bolt in place while you put this on and get the nut and washer on the outside and then you can tighten that down. This one here is my supply line. So this is what is getting air pressure from the factory air brakes to fill this tank. So I'm going to face this up towards the rear axle. All right, go ahead and tighten that down. Go ahead. That's good. So you can see this is kind of close in here. If you have a charger bit, cause you can't get the big one in there, we're going to use a short one to drill our pilot hole, and then we can go inside and finish out the hole. Okay, go ahead and tighten the bottom one and we'll get clear there, clear here, clear on the backside. Now we can go up, we can tie into our factory brake lines and run our airline tube back to our tank. Now we're here right above the rear axle. This is a Freightliner Chassis. So what you need to do is you need to make sure the vehicles off and you need to pump the brakes until all the air pressure is out. If you don't, when you cut these lines, it's going to blow out a real big burst of air and it could potentially harm you. So, empty all the air out, need to locate your metered air and your supply air. This line here, that's going to be our metered air. It runs from the bottom on this valve over, it runs into this valve. Your supply air is going to be right above it. It's this center one right here, that's running out. That one runs from the valve, to your factory air tank, storage air tank on the motorhome. We're going to have some fittings, some T-connectors. What we're going to do is we're going to cut those lines in half. Metered air fitting is going to look like this. We're going to cut the line, we're going to feed one side in here, one side in here, airline tube that comes in our kit, we'll run it from here, back to the tank that we installed. Our supply air, it's going to come with this valve. This valve, that line is actually smaller than this. So, you won't be able to use this one. Your kit's going to come with this block and this fitting right here. You're going to have to use this block and you're going to have to go to a big truck supply store and you only have to get half inch fittings, hose fittings to put on here so that that hose will fit into these. So I'm going to cut this zip tie here. We can always add another one on, that way I can separate these two lines. It doesn't matter which line you start with. All we're going to do, and you may get a little bit of air out of here, we're gonna cut this line. We want to make sure that it's cut flush, it's not pinched. You take your fingers and rub it like that in the ends cause that will get the burrs off. We're going to push that on, and a way to check to make sure you have the correct line is if you take this line before you cut it, this end right here, take a wrench, an opening wrench, Slide it up here, push this line in, push that wrench up against this rain and pull this line out. Have somebody just kind of push on the brakes a couple of times, you should feel air coming out of this hose, that way you know you have your metered air. add our T fitting. Make sure you push it in, make sure it's tight and then we'll do the same thing with our supply line, and that's just the residual air coming out of the tank. So we'll do the same thing here, rubbing down. This one's going to be a little bit bigger, so we're going to have to cut it down a little bit shorter. I'm going to slide that all the way until it stops. There we go. Now from here we can run our two lines back to our tank. Your kit's going to come with a big bundle of airline tube like this. Once the vehicle side is done, this is going to be one continuous loop. The easiest way to do it, is to start at the tank where you mount it or the, where you mounted your tank and run one end back to your fitting. So what I'm going to try to do is get this right over top of my frame rail to the inside. This is going to be our metered air so make sure you check the end. Again, make sure it's got flush and then you're going to make sure when routing it, to stay away from anything hot or moving. Insert that into our metered air and then we'll go back to our tank that we installed, we'll cut our line down and then get it in the valve, the correct valve on that end. We'll go ahead and get our line cut here. So this is for our supply line. I actually installed the line on my metered side and I already cut the line, which is fine because the two T-connectors are right next to each other. So I'm going to go ahead, stick it in my supply line and then we'll go back up when I run my other line up and I'll just switch it over to the other T-connector. This one here is going to be for the metered air. So now we'll run our line, our second line that same way following the other one and one is connect it in through the other T-connector. So what I did with my metered air is, there's a bracket right up here on top of the frame rail. Since we have to come down into it, rather than coming across, putting a bend in it, this is less likely to kink this way. If I ran it right along the top of the frame rail, right behind this bracket, now we can come straight down into it. Now we can just cut it down to the correct length that we need. Put it in just like that, and we can come back, we can zip tie these lines up, this airline, that's running around this track here. I may put a little bit of wire loom on it, just so you know, being up against the metal, it doesn't rub a hole in it, but we can secure our lines up and then we can move from here, bring a line from here to the back and then, we'll attach it to the airline fitting that's going to run to our towed vehicle. For our last line that has to run to the back of the motorhome, here, all they did was went up over top of the frame rail, it's factory wiring, I zip tied it here, this is going to be our valve we're going to mount, right here. We'll cut our line down to size once we get this mounted, and then we can run that line right into the bottom of it, right there, so our fitting is gonna look like this, or airline fitting. You want to make sure wherever you mount it, you're able to reach in and move this to disconnect the line when you don't want it. I'm going to go about this edge with outer edge here, that way it's tucked underneath here. We don't have to worry about when we don't have anything on it, running by and knocking it off, lining it up, we're going to take a 3764 drill bit we're gonna go right up through the fiberglass. You're gonna have two bolts, we're gonna take the two bolts, put them in this bracket. We're going to go up through two holes we just drilled. On the inside on each one we're going to put a flat washer and then a nylon lock. Then we'll cut our line down to size to make sure this bend is not, you're not kinking that line and we also don't want to hang it down so far that if the wheels happen to kick something up it got past our flaps, it doesn't mess it up. Once we get it in and we can take this and turn it and that stays up against that frame rail right there, or that hitch. Once we have our last line in place we're going to do is we're gonna start the vehicle, we're going to let the air fill back up in the vehicle or in the brake system and then we're going to take some soapy water and we're going to spray it anywhere where the line runs into a fitting and what we're looking for is we're looking for a little bubbles. If we have a leak, what we can do is we can separate that line and just cut the end of it off and then reinsert it and check it again. If you have to cut it, make sure you empty all the air out first, before you can disconnect the lines. Once our tanks are full, we'll come back, spray all the end of our lines, what we're looking for, these are bubbles that I sprayed on there, we're looking for bubbles to be created. So you'll see little bubbles starting to form, if there's an air leak anywhere around that line. So you want to check anywhere this line is going into a fitting. Once you've got the vehicle side done, motorhome side done, you're ready to go. It going to do it for look at end installation on the Demco Air Force One supplemental braking system on the 2021 Jeep Gladiator and a 2018 Jayco Snake Motorhome with a Freightliner Chassis..

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Employee Joshua S
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Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
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Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
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Dustin K
Employee Chris R
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Chris R
Employee Kathleen M
Installed by:
Kathleen M
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
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David F
Employee Ryan G
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Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
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Clayton O
Employee Bradley B
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Bradley B
Employee Jonathan Y
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Schuyler H

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