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Demco Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System Installation - 2020 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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How to Install the Demco Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System Installation on a 2020 Chevrolet Silverado


Hey guys, how's it going Conner here today at etrailer.com. We're going to be taking a look at the Demco Stay-IN-Play supplemental braking system here for our 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500.Our supplemental braking system here is going to be one of the other mini components we need to complete our flat tow setup. The list of other components are going to include a base plate kit, which is going to serve as a connection point for our next component we need, which is a tow bar, which is going to be the physical link between the motorhome and the towed vehicle. Now in addition to this, we're going to need some safety cables, which may or may not come with your tow bar as well as a lighting solution to provide signals from the motorhome to the towed vehicle. So the supplemental braking system is actually going to be required in most States in order to tow legally.Now what does essentially does is, while we're driving down the road in our motorhome, we have our towed vehicle behind us when we're coming to a stop, or we're going up and down hills, our vehicle behind us is going to be pushing the motorhome. And what this is going to cause is it's going to cause extended stress on our motorhome.

So we're not going to be able to stop as quickly and the suspension and braking components are also going to wear down faster on our motorhome. And basically what our supplemental braking system is going to do is it's essentially going to initiate the brakes here in our towed vehicle. So we're not going to be putting more stress, I should say, on our motorhome here. We have a proportional system. So what this proportional system is going to do is it's going to sense the inertia, via the internal inertia sensor and it's going to apply the correct amount of braking force here in our towed vehicle in relation to the breaking in our motorhome.So to show you how our system functions, essentially we're sitting in the motorhome now.

So we're going to go ahead and apply the brakes which should then in turn, apply the brakes here in our towed vehicle via the air actuated cylinder.Now a feature here that we have of our Demco system, is actually going to be a monitor light that we have mounted to our rear view camera here. And essentially this is going to provide a signal while we're in the motorhome. So we can look back, look for that monitor light and then we know the brakes in our towed vehicle are being applied. Just like that.So with our Stay-IN-Play braking system, there's going to be a few separate components. The first component we have here is the breakaway switch.

What the breakaway switch does is in the event that our towed vehicle comes detached from the tow vehicle, the pin is going to be pulled, which is then going to signal our braking system to apply the brakes in the towed vehicle.So the next component we have mounted here is going to be the operating unit. Now the operating unit is essentially the brain of the braking system. It's going to be tied into a controller inside the vehicle, which we'll show you next.So the next component we have inside is a G-Force controller here in the vehicle, which is going to be hooked up to the operating unit and it's essentially going to sync signals to and from, to determine the correct amount of braking force that we need, as well as trigger the monitor light.And then last but not least, we have our air cylinder here, which is responsible for depressing the brakes, which it gets a signal from the G-Force controller and it's inaudible 00:03:23 to the operating unit. So there are a couple of different options for braking systems on the market. The Stay-IN-Play, I will say hands down is my favorite.

However, it might not be right for every application.The Stay-IN-Play is going to work for motorhomes that have hydraulic brakes. However, another common configuration of brakes on a motorhome class A's in particular are air brakes. If you do have air brakes the Stay-IN-Play is not going to work for you. However, we do have another great system for you in the Air Force One, which is available here through etrailer.So as far as the installation process goes, there is a couple of things we're going to have to mount inside the vehicle. However, the majority of the process is going to involve running wires to and from various components that we install. The position for the air actuator that depresses the brake cylinder is going to be a little complicated as well. However, if you just give the appropriate amount of time and patience and follow the instructions, as well as the demo we're going to show you here in this video, you shouldn't have too much of an issue.Now that we've gone over everything, let's jump right into installation and show you how to do this yourself. To start our installation we need to find a place to mount our operating unit here. Now this needs to be somewhere in the engine bay or underneath the front of the vehicle here. We don't have an exact location. So it's really going to be up to you where you feel it needs to be mounted. Keep in mind, we do have some stuff on the side of it here that needs to be accessible. So you only keep that in mind when you're choosing your mounting location. We've actually found a nice little cubby hole inside the fender well, here on the passenger side. We've already just went ahead and roughly test fit the operating unit here. And it actually fits in there rather perfectly. The only issue we're going to run into is it's going to be pretty hard to get a couple of self-tapping screws on these top two mounting holes here.So we have a couple of different options for this. If we want to, we could actually drill new mounting holes up at the top, there that are a little bit easier to get to, or we can actually take a right angle. This is actually a right angle impact driver, but for the sake of this installation, it probably would work to get our self-tappers in. But they also make a riding of screw screwdrivers as well. We're going to try our best here to get a couple of self-tapping screws and these top two mounting holes here. So we can mount our control box here in this little fender well pocket.So now that we have our operating unit mounted here, we have a little trouble sneaking some self-tappers in with the included bolt holes on the operating units. What we did is, we just took a piece of pretty much just an L bracket here. We attached one end to the flange on our operating unit, and then we attached the other with some self-tapping screws straight down. We'll show you that a little better here now. These brackets we're super simple to make, they didn't take as much time at all. However, if you don't want to make these yourself at home, I completely understand that. There are plenty of other locations on the vehicle that we can mount the operating unit that wouldn't require us to make any brackets.The next thing we need to do is we need to mount our G-Force controller here. Now the best place for this is going to be right here to this driver's side kick panel on the left side of the vehicle. And the reason we want to mount this here is because the Demco logo here needs to be facing the passenger seat and our toggle switch here needs to be facing the rear of the vehicle. So we're just going to mock this up so, once we find a good place for it, there's going to be two holes on either side of the box. We do want to make sure it's level and we'll go ahead and attach this with some self-tapping screws here.So the next thing we need to do here, we need to mount the light here. That's our monitor light for our braking system. Basically when we're in the coach of our tow vehicle, we're going to be able to look back at our rear view mirror and look for this monitor light. Because when this is lit up, that then indicates that the brakes in our towed vehicle are being applied.Now we have a couple of different options for mounting. The best place is going to be just to stick it to the back of our rear view mirror here, because then we can run the wire up from the rear view mirror and tuck it behind the headliner here. You can see we have a nice little access hole. Now we can run that all the way to the driver's side, A pillar here. We might need to remove that A pillar to tuck the wire back. And then we're going to be feeding the ends down to the G-Force controller that we just installed.We're going to take the adhesive backing here off of our monitor light, just like so, and then clean off the surface real quick first. And we're just going to mount it to the back of our mirror here and press it down and make sure it sticks. Now we can begin tucking our wire here up between the headliner and the roof here. We may need a trim panel tool to sort of get it to stay back up under there or we may just be able to push it back under there with our fingers.So in order to hide our wire best, we need to go ahead and remove this A pillar here or at least loosen it so we can tuck the wire behind. In order to do that, there's going to be two bolts here. You can see, we have these little covers here, which are hiding bolts. All we're going to do is take a trim panel tool here, sort of sneak it between the two panels here and they should just pop right off. So we're going to take a 10 millimeter socket here. We're going to remove these bolts.We don't need to actually take the entire A pillar off. What we're going to do is simply take a trim panel tool here to sort of wedge up the pillar. Now we can just begin to sort of tuck our wire behind this pillar here, we'll come on the outside here. We're going to hide it between the pillar and the weather stripping. I'm going to peel back the weather stripping here. We're just going to continue to hide our wire behind there and run it the rest of the way down near our G-Force controller. Before we move further, I always just like to go ahead and button up all our panels here. So we don't forget later on.We went ahead and just popped off this panel here. If you take a look on the inside here, there's going to be some clips that hold it to the vehicle. All we did was take our little trim panel tool here and just pry out. We don't need to remove it completely, we just need to get some access behind here. So we're going to take the end of our wires and we're just going to feed them down here through a hole. You should be able to reach on the inside of the dash and pull these out once we get them in far enough. Pull those through to get rid of the slack. And then we can go ahead and button our panel back up.Now you can see we have the two red and black wires that came from our monitor light. We have them routed here to the driver foot well. What we need to do next is, we're going to take this black wire here, which is going to come from our G-Force controller. We're going to just snip this because we don't need near this much wire, but we are going to save that wire because we're going to be reusing it. So I'm just going to make a cut right here. And we are going to strip some of the end of that wire. In your kit, you should have this three way connector here. We're going to attach one of the ends from that connector here to that black wire.Then we're going to attach the black wire from our monitor light into one of the other ins of our little three-way here. So normally the red wire here from our monitor light would be attached to the cold side of our brake light. However, since we have a battery disconnect on our vehicle, all the circuits are going to be shut down while we're in tow mode. So we're actually later on going to run this red wire to our breakaway switch. So now we're going to take the black wire that we just cut free from our G-Force controller and then strip back the end of it. That's going to go to the other connection on our three-way fitting here.So as we mentioned earlier, the red wire that's coming from our monitor light would normally go to the cold side of the brake light switch. However, since we have the battery disconnected, while in tow, we need to route this up and tie into the breakaway switch slash monitoring system. So what we're going to do is just time. You're going to place a butt connector, crimp this on. Then we're going to take some extra wire we have, going to be using a brown wire. We're going to go ahead and attach that to the other side of the butt connector there. And we can route this up in the engine bay with the rest of our wires.Now we're going to take the end of the bundle of the wires that came from the G-Force controller. We're also going to take the quarter inch airline tubing that came with our kit. We're going to attach these altogether with some electrical tape, because we're going to be routing these through the firewall and into the engine bay.We've already located a grommet to do so. So we'll go ahead and point that out next. We do want a very small profile to sneak these wires in. So you're up underneath the driver dash, so you can see here, we have a bundle of wires from our G-Force controller. And if we look up there, we're going to see a hole. What we did, there was normally a grommet there. We went ahead and pushed that grommet max through there. And essentially if you need help finding this, we can go on the other side. The hole we used is going to be used to run the hood latch release here. So if we're having trouble in finding that we can locate this hood latch release and then follow the cable, which we could actually see here up into that hole. Now, what we're going to do is we're to take the end of the bundle of wires. We just secured. We're going to try to feed it through that hole as best we can.So our wires, well they came out below the firewall here, right beside the brake fluid reservoir. So we went ahead and pulled those out and we actually have some black wire loom around our wires, which actually came with the kit. So we covered that for a nice clean factory look. And then what we did is we just zip tied this bundle of wires here to some existing wires we had. We had previously run a wire across there with some ring clamps. So we just zip tied it to that, because those wires are going to go to the operating system. So we just have them run along the top here and you can see the end of our wires and the end of our airline tubing which ends here.The next thing we're going to do, we're going to take our airline tubing, which we did run with a bunde of wires to our firewall. We're just going to follow it up here. And it's actually going to go to a bulkhead fitting on our operating unit. So we have some extra airline tubing here that we need to cut off. However, we need to make sure we have a perfectly straight cut, which is why we're using this airline tubing cutter. Because if we don't have a straight cut, that's going to then create issues with leaks. So we're going to get the amount that we think we need maybe a little longer, just to be able to safe side, cut that and we can attach it to the bulkhead fitting on our operating unit. Keep in mind, we're going to be going around the hood prop there. What we do to connect this. We just push straight in till you hear a click, and then we pull up to lock it in place. Just like that.Now what we're going to do is, we're going to take our bundle of wires that come from the operating unit. We're going to begin attaching them to the wires that came from our G-Force controller. We have some access here, so the first connection we're going to make is the black wire from our operating unit to the black wire from our G-Force controller. So I'm going to choose an appropriate amount of wire, I'm going to cut the rest off. Now we are going to crimp these two together as hard, butt splice connectors. Just like that. And now we're going to repeat this process with the red wire from the G-Force controller to the red wire on our operating unit. From our G-Force controller, there's going to be three wires, a yellow wire and green wire and a white wire that need to be tied into the lighting system. If you remember, we actually run these over to the passenger side of our vehicle. However, our lighting system is going to be run along the driver's side frame rail here.Depending on which side of the vehicle, you have your wires running back to your taillights, you may or may not need to run these wires over to the passenger side of the vehicle or keep them here at the driver like we have. So what we're going to do now is, we're going to take these wires together and then we're going to run them down inside of the engine bay here, and we're going to tie them into our dials, which we have on the driver frame room. Before we tie our wires from the G-Force controller into the a tow bar lighting system, we're just going to go ahead and take some wire loom here, which isn't included with our kit, keep in mind. We're just going to cover these wires so we can protect them as we're running them through the engine bay, down to the tow bar wiring.So now that we have our wire covered with our wire loom here, we're going to route it along the side of our fender here. We're actually going to come down here, sort of fish it out through a hole. Essentially, we're going to be coming out down below the headlights, where we are going to be tying into our wiring, which is on the driver frame rail.Now that we have the wires run from our G-Force controller down here to the front of the vehicle where our tow bar wiring is going to be located. Keep in mind yours could be a little different from this depending on how you have your tow bar wiring run. So we went ahead and isolated the three wires are going to splice into the green wire, yellow wire and the white wire. So what we're going to do is, we're going to take these quick splice connectors, which are included with our kit here. We're going to place one end of it through one of those. From the other end is going to go through the white wire and our diode system. So once we have both wires in place, what we're going to do is, we're going to close this connection here, the top, till we hear it click. Then we're going to use a pair of pliers, you want to clamp down on this, which is actually going to make the connection. We want to repeat this for the yellow and green wires as well.So what we're going to do next is, we're going to come inside the vehicle here underneath the driver's side dash. And we're going to mount our air cylinder, which is going to be used to depress the brakes on our towed, when we get the signal from the tow vehicle. And we need to be careful when we are mounting this air cylinder here, because the cable needs to be straight while the brake pedal is depressed. So if we press the brake pedal here, we need to find a spot on the arm, that's going to be out of the way of our foot during normal driving operation. This also going to allow us to have a straight anchor point on the firewall there.So now we're going to take the plate off the back of our cylinder here. We're going to need a 3/8 inch socket in order to do that, or we're just going to roughly position the air cylinder on the arm of our brake pedal here. Once we get the air cylinder in an approximate location, we're going to go ahead and tighten down these nuts here on the backside to hold it in place while we figured out the anchor side of things.Now, in order to get a good anchor point or a firewall here, we need to bend this carpet back. So what we're going to do is we're just going to remove this fastener here just by turning it just like a normal bolt would be. And you remove that. And then we're going to bend our carpet back away from us to give us a little more room to work. Looks like we have one more fastener up here, that we'll remove so we can bend back more of this protective padding right here. So now that we have all of our carpet protective padding out of the way, what we're going to do is you're going to press the brake pedal in, as far as it'll go. And we need to find these point on the firewall that is dead center for where the actuator is going to be.First just going to use a paint marker here, parallel with the air cylinder. Can you get the right spot there However, we do need to come over because the cable needs to be dead center. We're going to let that come back and then we're going to mark the approximate location to where we think that it completely needs to be. Before we do any drilling we're obviously going to depress the pedal again and check to make sure that's straight on to the air cylinder. Now we're just going to take our anchor here, position it in the yellow dot we made. Just check the alignment to make sure everything looks good.I think we're going to come over and down a little bit. We're going to mark that hole and then we can start drilling. So we went ahead and removed the anchor point from our cable here. And we attached this three hole bracket here using one of the larger self-tapping screws provided in the kit. Now what we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and mount this with the center hole, being the hole that we found earlier and the location that we previously marked. We want to make sure we don't tighten it too much so we can strip out the screw in our hole in the firewall. And that means we have to re-drill it to a bigger size.Now that we have the center screw in place, we're going to go ahead and put a self-tapping screw in the other two holes in our bracket here. So now that we have our protective liner back down here, we can obviously see that it's going to be covering our anchor point. So we need to go ahead and trim a section of this out to allow that cable to move freely. We're just going to be taking a pair of scissors here, just cutting out the section that we need accessible.Now we're going to take our cable here and thread it through the end of our anchor point. Once we pull that through here, we do need to go ahead and make another loop in there as well. Sort of been the end of the cable a little bit there. It's going to give us more room to work. Just going to feed it through right now, we'll leave it a little loose because we still want to play with the slack.We went ahead and made some fine tuning adjustments here to our air actuator and our anchor point on the firewall here. Now what we need to do is, we need to take out most of the slack out of our cable here. You want about a quarter to a half an inch of the slack. So we're just going to tighten this a little more and then we can go ahead and tighten our set screw down once we get the right amount of slack. So we do need to hold the cable in place for this, so it doesn't move on us. We're just going to take an Allen key here and tighten this down to hold it in place. Now we're just going to do a quick demonstration, depressing the brake pedal to give you an idea of how things lookOur final step here inside the vehicle. We can go ahead and attach our airline tubing that we ran from the operating unit to this push-to-connect fitting on the end of our air cylinder. Keep in mind we are going to have some movement obviously in our brake pedal. So we need to be aware of that when we're cutting our airline tube here. Therefore I am going to give us just a little bit more than I think we need. We're going to simply press that in there and then pull it out to lock it in place, and press down on the brake pedal to make sure everything's good.Now all that's left of our braking system here is our final two blue and brown wires, which come from the operating unit here. Now, if we remember, we still have one brown wire up here as well, which was connected to the red wire from our monitor light. And what we need to do is, as we said, we actually need to tie this into this blue wire here because the stoplight switch circuit on our vehicle is dead while we're in tow mode.What we're going to do is we're going to run the blue wire to this brown wire here, continue appropriately. And then we're going to tie back into this, use our extra blue wire to come back here to the front, to go to the breakaway switch, along with our other brown wire coming from the operating unit. So we're going to roughly measure out how much we think we need here. We're actually going to keep this blue wire that we just cut the excess off of. We're going to splice on a butt connector here. But we're also going to take this other blue wire that we just cut. And this is going to be run back to the front of the vehicle, back to our breakaway switch. So we're going to tie these two together essentially. We can take one of our butt connectors, came with our kit here and crimp that on. We can take the other end of this and attach it to our brown wire here, which was the red wire from our monitor light.Now that we have that connection made, I'm going to go ahead and clean up all our wires here. And I'm going to route this remaining blue and brown wire to the front of the vehicle for our breakaway switch. We did have to cut some of our blue wire so we could tap back in there to the monitor light. So what we're going to do now is we're just going to take some extra wire that we had lying around here at the shop. We're going to extend this to the length of the brown wire, and then we're going to tape it together, get some wire loom on there to make it look nice and neat. And then we're going to route this to the front of the vehicle for when we mount our breakaway switch. So we're using a green wire now, we just need to keep that in mind when we're making our connections on the breakaway switch.So as you can see here, we have our wire ran down behind the headlights here, came out behind the headlights. We have it zip tied to some of our existing wiring harness here, just get it in place. Then we went over the frame here, you have another zip tied to rear here. And then similar to some of the other wires we have just tied around the safety chain loops on our base plate tabs. That way, when we reinstall the bumper, we can find a spot to mount our breakaway switch.So you can see here, we have a barbed fitting on the end of our operating unit, which normally would be tied into the vacuum at our brake booster. However, this vehicle does not have a vacuum-powered brake booster, since it's electric and hydraulic only. So what we're going to do is, we normally could just leave this open however, we want to prevent anything from getting sucked in there or sitting in there. So we're just going to take a piece of the vacuum hose, which came with our kit here. We just cut a small portion off. We're going to attach that to the end of our barbed fitting here. Get it on there nice and tight. And then I'm simply just going to take the other end and just angle it down into the fender well and that should be good.So one of the final things we need to do here is we need to install an inline fuse. It goes straight to the battery's positive terminal, and it's going to be inline with the brown wire, from our operating unit to the orange wire on the breakaway switch. So what we're going to do here is we're going to take a drill. We're going to drill a small hole in the side of the cover here for our battery. And that way we can attach it to the stud here on the positive battery post. We're going to take one end of our fuse holder here and route it to that stud. And now we are going to attach a ring terminal here. I always like to use just a little bit more. And then crimp that on. We have a 13 millimeter nut on the top there that we're going to go ahead and loosen so we can attach the fuse holder. Just like that. Go ahead and tighten this back up. Keep in mind, we do want to make sure our fuse is not installed for this step here.The reason we drilled that hole here in the side of the cover is so that we can actually put the cover back on without having to break any plastic to have clearance for our wire there. So then the other inch here is going to go in line on this blue wire. We're going to take some of this jacket, strip it back, take the brown wire here and snip that. One end is going to go to the butt connector and these two ends are going to get tied together and go to the other end of the butt connector. Crimp that down nice and good.Give it a little tug to make sure everything's tight. And we're going to go ahead and use some electrical tape to seal up these connections here. So the next step of our installation here, we need to mount our breakaway switch with a pin facing the tow vehicle, just like so. We also need to keep in mind, the bracket needs to be able to pivot left or right. Now the best place for this is going to be somewhere in this area. And on this particular trim package, this little panel here is actually removable. So once we get that out of there, we're going to mount our breakaway switch somehow in that area, and maybe we need an additional bracket or it's allow it to pivot. But in this location it's going to be best because it'll be concealed and it'll be right here with the other connections we need to make for our tow bar.So in order to get the angle we want for our breakaway switch, we went ahead and just took a bracket here and just made a nice little 90 degree bend in it. There's actually an existing fold directly above this that we're going to bolt it to. And then we can mount our breakaway switch to this. It's going to give us a nice recessed look for the maneuverability we need from side to side. So now that we have our mounting bracket secured to the vehicle here, we can go ahead and attach our breakaway switch here. So our blue wire is going to be going to this green wire. However, if you remember it, we actually extended this, the blue wire from the green wire. So normally this wire would be blue or whatever color you use to extend it. And the orange wire is simply going to go to the brown wire.So as we've been doing this whole time, we're just going to strip some jacket off the wire, attach our butt connectors and then attach it to the corresponding wires there. Once we remove the jacket. Now that we have our connections made, since we're not using heat shrink butt connectors, which we do have available here at etrailer, we're going to go ahead and just tape the connectors up with some electrical tape. That I'm actually going to be using some more wire loom for just a better finished install look, then we can go ahead and mount the switch to our bracket there. So now with our switch mounted on the vehicle, our final step here is to install our fuse into the fuse holder that we had run to the breakaway switch, for our braking system. Now that we have our fuse installed, we're going to go ahead and flip the on switch on our G-Force controller here. And then we're going to have a friend towards the front of the vehicle, pull the breakaway pin to ensure that our actuator is working correctly. And there we go.And that's going to do it for our look and installation here of the Demco Stay-IN-Play supplemental braking system here for our 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500.


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