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Demco Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System Installation - 2012 Jeep Wrangler

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How to Install the Demco Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System on a 2012 Jeep Wrangler


Hey, everybody. Ryan here at etrailer. Today, on our 2012 Jeep Wrangler, we're gonna be showing you how to install the Demco supplemental braking system with the wireless CoachLink monitor. But before we do that, why don't we check it out and make sure that this is something that's gonna work for you. So before we dive right in to the braking system and really start to check that out, I figured it'd be useful just to kinda touch base and refresh ourselves on the five main components that we're gonna need to flat tow our Jeep down the road in the first place. Your first component is going to be a base plate, and what that's gonna do is provide us with a solid and reliable connection point.

That way, we can hook our tow bar up to it. Tow bar is gonna be that second component, and this is gonna be the actual physical link that connects the front of your towed vehicle to the back of your motor home. The third main component is going to be safety cables, and these are pretty straightforward. You know, these are there in the event of an unlikely disconnect. These are gonna keep everything connected together.

The fourth main component is going to be tow bar wiring, and what this is gonna do is transfer the lighting signals from the back of your motor home to the back of the Jeep, keeping you safe and legal. And last but not least, the fifth main component is going to be a braking system, supplemental braking system. And what this is gonna do is apply the brakes in your Wrangler whenever you hit the brakes in your motor home, helping to bring you to a more complete and predictable stop. So with that out of the way, let's kinda talk about the braking systems. When it comes to choosing a braking system, you want to get the one that's gonna work best for you, and so hopefully, I can kinda provide you with some information that kinda get you going in the right direction.

There's a lot of 'em available that are out there, and they're all gonna be a little bit different from each other. But what I like to do is kinda break 'em up into three categories, okay A permanent-type braking system like we have here today, the Stay-IN-Play. That's probably one of my top picks, if not the top, for permanent-type systems because it's super reliable, and, I mean, it flat out just works. We rarely run into any issues with those. With that said, the Stay-IN-Play is only gonna work with motor homes that have your standard hydraulic brakes.

The other category is motor homes with air brakes, all right And if you're looking for a permanent-type system and if your motor home has air brakes, the one I suggest is the Air Force One. Just like this one, it's super easy to use, really reliable, and we've had a ton of good luck with them. And the third category would be portable-type braking systems, okay So those, you're able to kinda pull out of the vehicle when you're done using it and set it back up when you are ready. So that might be a good option for those of you that don't really flat tow that often, or you have multiple vehicles that you flat tow, or are planning on it. Or even if you just change cars every couple of years. You know, I know a lot of people who get into a car for a year or two, get in a new one, and you don't wanna have to completely reset everything up if you don't have to. So that's where a portable-type braking system would come into play, at least one that I would recommend, in a scenario like that. And one I've been leaning towards lately when it comes to the Jeep is the Brake Buddy Select 3. It just seems to fit in the floorboard really well. These Jeeps kinda have small, kinda funky floorboards, and that seems to be an issue. And the Select 3s actually do a pretty good job of fitting in there and getting a straight shot at your brake pedal. So one of the things that seems to be really important, and it's definitely understandable when it comes to just any flat tow setup in general, is the ease of use. You know, how simple it's gonna be to set up and everything else like that. And luckily with this braking system, there's really only a couple of steps and, you know, anyone can do it. All you're gonna have to do to get it ready to flat two is hook up your tether here. So this just clips onto what's called the breakaway switch, and the other end of it just goes to the safety chain opening on your hitch. And then, all that's left to do is go inside the Jeep and more or less just turn the system on. So to turn the system on, you're gonna come inside of the vehicle and you're gonna come to what's called the G-Force Controller, which is this box here. And there's gonna be a toggle switch on it, and so I just turned it off, put it in that position when you're not flat towing, when you're ready to use it, flip into the on position. And that's really all there is to it. You're gonna hook up the rest of your stuff to your motor home, put your Jeep in flat tow mode, and you're ready to go. One of the benefits to this system is the fact that it is proportional. And so more or less what that means is you're gonna have a smooth braking experience because what happens, whenever you hit the brake in the motor home, the brake pedal on the Jeep is gonna match it. For example, let's say if, you know, you're kinda just going down the road and there's a red light up ahead, and you just kinda mildly get on the brake and kinda help just come to kinda a normal stop. The Jeep is gonna do the same thing. But on the other hand, let's say maybe you're going on the highway and there's an accident or something like that where you have to kinda make an emergency stop, really stand on that brake pedal and get slowed down quick. The Jeep is gonna do the same thing. So more or less, it's just going to make your driving experience a lot more predictable. You know, you're gonna know what to expect. You're not gonna feel that Jeep kinda wanting to, you know, it's not gonna be breaking harder and kinda dragging your motor home down or vice versa. So overall, you know, it just makes your whole experience that much smoother. One of the things that does kinda set this system apart from some of the others is the fact that we have the wireless CoachLink and this is pretty cool. Actually, it just plugs into your motor home and kinda gives you a monitor. That way, you can keep an eye on things when you're flat towing down the road. So now what's gonna happen is whenever you're moving and you apply the brakes and the braking system activates, you're gonna have some lights that'll light up here. Now, if I hit the brake in here, it's not gonna do it 'cause the braking system is not gonna be activated. But, you know, you get the idea. Pretty, pretty simple stuff. And actually, that's one of the convenient things about this braking system too is it's gonna be able to recognize if it actually needs to apply the Jeep's brakes or not. So for example, we're just sitting here, okay So let's say if you're like stuck at a red light, your motor home's gonna have no problem just staying stationary. You're not trying to really slow anything down. And so the braking system is gonna recognize that, and it's not gonna tell the Jeep's brakes to come on. And so, you know, that just really kinda eliminates unnecessary wear and tear and usage of your braking system. And you should expect to get a little more life out of it. And not to mention too, unnecessary wear and tear on your Jeep's braking system, you know, the actual brake pads and things like that. If you don't need to hit the brakes, why would you You know, and so that's something that I'm glad they kinda thought that through and just kinda takes it one step further to make your experience that much better. And you kinda wanna come back to this tether here. So we talked about it earlier but didn't really mention actually what it does. So it's gonna get connected to this, which is called the breakaway switch, and this is a safety device. So what happens in the event of an unlikely disconnect, this pin is gonna get pulled. That's going to apply the brakes in your Jeep and help get things back under control. But other than that, at the end of the day, if you're looking for a permanent-type braking system and your motor home has hydraulic brakes, this would be my top recommendation just 'cause how well it works and how easy it is to use. As far as the installation goes, I'm not gonna lie, it's time-consuming. Nothing's really super over-the-top complicated, it's just quite a bit of wires and things like that you have to run. But good news is you only have to do it once, and once you do it, you know, one time your done and ready to go. So as long as you just stay focused, it's something that you should be able to do. But with that said, why don't we go ahead, pull into the garage, and hook it up together now. To begin our installation, first thing that we need to do is mount up all of our major components, the first one being our main operating unit. And in our case, I actually mounted that kinda up here in this area, just behind our front bumper. So underneath our vehicle, here's our main operating unit. So we have this beam that runs across the front here. And what I've done is just kinda bent this tab and angled our operating unit this way. And there's two holes already pre-drilled in the operating unit. I lined them up, drilled through the beam, then used some nuts and bolts and lock washers on this side to secure it. And it is very tight. If we continue just to look towards the front a little bit, and I'll show you this other side, so there's the other side of the operating unit. And this one fell short of this beam a little bit, not really a big deal. Again, I just drilled holes. And for these, I used zip ties on it. And this thing is not budging, very secure, and it'll work out good for us. With that out of the way, next thing we can mount up is our breakaway switch. This is really straightforward. A lot of times, your base plate will have a bracket on it for this breakaway switch. And that's exactly what ours had. So I just lined it up, using a nut and a bolt to secure this down. While we're down here, we might as well get some of our wires and tubing and things like that situated. So this black wire and this orange wire, those are gonna be coming off of our breakaway switch. And what you're gonna do is take the black wire and that's gonna get connected to the blue wire from our operating unit. And at this time, it would also be ideal to take a length of wire. This is one you will have to get separately. It's quite long. This wire is eventually gonna get ran into the inside of our vehicle. So if I had to take a guess, I'd say a good 10, 12 foot just to be on the safe side. But you shear both ends back, tie 'em together, and put both those ends in one butt connector. The orange wire from our breakaway switch, that's gonna get connected to the brown wire coming right out of the operating unit. And since it's so close here, I cut it to length, and then I took the remaining portion of that brown wire and did the same thing as we did down here, tie them together. This brown wire's eventually gonna get ran up to our positive battery terminal. So with that said, we can kinda do that now. So all these wires, and then there's a red and a black wire coming out of the operating unit as well, I just ran them along through here and you can see they're all right here. And with those, I simply just routed them up and over, and you obviously wanna avoid any hot or moving parts. And from there, I ran them just straight up through there. So there's a small opening. It may be a little tricky to see, but it is manageable and you can get to it. But you run them right up and into the engine compartment. And while we're down here, might as well do our other two lines. So you're gonna have a vacuum line, which is this one here. This just plugs into the check valve. There is a fitting on it, just slides right over it, no big deal. And this fitting here simply just plugs in to your quick-connect. Now, when you fully plug this in, you wanna make sure the end of this has a nice clean cut. Or you don't wanna use a regular pair of snips or anything that could kinda kink it. You wanna use a tubing cutting tool or a razor edge, something like that. Just make sure it's nice and clean and straight, and that's something you just gotta kinda plug right in. You'll feel it kinda seat. And with that said, the air line tube and the nylon air tubing are going to run up through this opening. So essentially the same as this same gap that we ran our wiring through, just on the other side of the vehicle. So before we kinda get carried away, showing you where everything ran up into the engine compartment and everything else, I figured it'd be useful to kinda go inside of our Jeep, set up a couple other of our main components and get that wiring and stuff ran too. That way, everything will be out here where we need it and we can make all of our connections at one time. That way, we don't have to kinda backtrack and kinda go over things that we already did. So inside of the Jeep now, this is where we're gonna be working here on the driver's side right underneath the dashboard. So if you look on our kick panel here on the side, we're gonna have our wireless transmitter and our G-Force Controller. So I mounted these up and when it comes to the G-Force Controller, it has to face the proper way. So you want this knob to face towards the front of the vehicle and you also want it to be as level and straight as possible. And it turned out this worked out really well. Even if you have a stick shift, it clears everything really nice and is still pretty easy to get to. But this one, I simply just used a couple self-tapping screws to secure it in. While I was right here, I also secured our wireless CoachLink transmitter. So this just comes with some sticky tape and it actually kinda wedged in between here perfectly. And I put some sticky tape on the back, stuck it right to the kick panel here, the side of it. With that said, the CoachLink, you're gonna have this wire that comes off of it, this gray wire. And that comes in a pretty big bundle and it eventually, it'll split off into a red wire and a white wire. The white wire, I kinda just ran over through here. The white wire is gonna be a ground. So I crimped on a ring terminal, removed this factory ground nut using a 10-millimeter, put the ring terminal over it, tightened it back down. The red wire here, this actually gets connected. If you remember down below, I said we had that extra long piece of wire that I ran. That's what this is. The red wire will get connected to that. Now, I know I haven't showed you how to get this inside of here yet, but we'll get to that in just a minute. So that's where the red wire from our CoachLink gets connected to. From there, on our G-Force Controller, there's gonna be a bundle of wires that come off of the back of it. And those are actually gonna get routed up the firewall, and they'll go through a factory grommet up there. So if you look up on the firewall, there's that factory grommet that we ran our wires through. And you probably noticed as well, our air line tubing that goes to our main operating unit, that eventually comes up through that grommet as well. And that'll get connected to our actuator on our brake pedal, but we'll get to that in a moment. But with that said, now that everything is in the engine compartment as far as wires and tubing and things like that go, why don't we go ahead and step back out there and start to get everything hooked up. So back in the engine compartment, right there, that's actually the grommet that we used to get our wires and our tubing and everything else through. We'll go ahead and focus on the wiring first. So our wires simply just routed along the whole length of our firewall. And keep in mind too, you know, once everything is done and you verify everything's working, you can always come back and clean these up. You know, put your wire loom and your tape and everything on 'em, but I had to wait to the very end to do that. So here's where they make some connections. With that said, if you remember, when we ran our wires up from the bottom, here's where they're gonna come up, all right So up through this little opening here. And so what I did is simply just routed those kinda up here in this area. And then, we started to make some of our connections. So the first connection that I made was the red and black wires. So here's the black wire coming from our G-Force Controller inside of our Jeep, and that's going to the black wire from our operating unit. Same deal with this wire. The red wire from the G-Force Controller is gonna get connected to the red wire from our main operating unit. We'll tuck those out of the way. If you move back up here, we're gonna have a red and green wire from our G-Force Controller. So here's the yellow wire from the G-Force Controller and the green wire from our G-Force Controller. These are gonna get tied into your existing diode wiring or tow bar wiring. So you just go color for color. You cut your diode wiring in half, strip back all the ends. The yellow is gonna get connected to one end, green connected to the green end, and simply just use the but connector to pair everything back together. So pretty straightforward there, not really much to it. And last but not least, we're gonna have one more wire from our G-Force Controller, all right And that's gonna be the white wire, and that is gonna be a ground. And so what I did with that was just ran it through here, and here's where it comes out, all right And there's actually a factory ground post. So I crimped on a ring terminal, removed that nut using a 10-millimeter, put it over, and tightened it back down. All right, so if you remember that brown wire that we connected to the breakaway switch and kinda ran up and I said it's gonna get connected to the positive battery terminal, we can go ahead and do that now. That wire will follow the rest of 'em up. At the end of it, you're gonna take the included fuse holder, use your butt connector to pair the two. Now, I do wanna mention I am using heat shrink butt connectors for all these. The ones that come with it work fine, but honestly, these are worth the investment. They just help keep them sealed up better, and you can grab these here at etrailer. And the other end, make sure your fuse is not installed, the other end, we're gonna strip back insulation there. We're gonna take a ring terminal, put it on that end. Those get crimped down, and we need to hook this up to the positive battery terminal. So got a bunch of studs to work with here. I'm just gonna use this one. Remove this nut using a 10-millimeter. Slide that over the post. And we'll simply just tighten it back down. At this time, don't install the fuse. That is the very last thing we're gonna do on the vehicle side once everything is hooked up and connected and ready to go. So now, back inside of our Jeep underneath the dash, we can get our actuator cylinder hooked up. And what you're gonna do, you're gonna put this on the brake pedal arm. It's simply just gonna clamp down to it. When you tighten these down, you don't have to crank super hard on 'em by any means. You get 'em snug and then kinda, you know, a couple more turns and you'll be in pretty good shape. And what we're looking for, that air line tube, the one that we ran in here, that's gonna get connected to the back of the cylinder, the same way that we hooked it up to the operating unit. Coming off the back of the actuator cylinder, you're gonna have a cable attached to an anchor, which we'll need to secure to the firewall. And the kit's gonna come with a bracket, and I secured the bracket to the firewall, and then the anchor to the bracket, to the firewall. And it just helps give it a nice big footprint to really ensure that we have a good bite. Obviously, before you start screwing into the firewall, you wanna make sure that you're clear behind there. There is a line that runs through there. It's kinda close, so just keep that in mind. But what you're looking for is you want this cable to be nice and straight and in line with the cylinder. That way, we get the best performance out of the cylinder here. And you're also gonna wanna set the tension. So you wanna be able to take your cylinder and pull it back and forward just a little bit. So you don't want this line super tight or super loose. And the way you can adjust that is by either feeding more line through your anchor or taking more out. And then, on one side of it here, there'll be a set screw. So you loosen that up to adjust it, tighten it down whenever you find that proper tension, and you're gonna do that using a four-millimeter Allen key. Now that we have everything hooked up, we'll come back to our fuse holder, take the included fuse, put that into the holder. And now, we can do a quick test just to ensure that our system is indeed operating before we kinda start to clean all of our wiring up and get everything back in order. So just a real quick test just to make sure everything's turning on, what you can do is pull your breakaway switch pin here. You obviously wanna go to your G-Force Controller and make sure that toggle switch is flipped into the on position. But when we pull this, we should hear our braking system activate and our brake pedal be pushed down. So with this being the wireless CoachLink, we're obviously gonna have our monitor here in the motor home that we need to set up. Really straightforward. I mean, not really a wrong way to do it. Just find a spot where you wanna put this. In our case, it actually fits here in our cup holder pretty well. It's out of the way, easy to see, and everything like that. And then, you're just gonna need a 12-volt power source, like a, you know, a cigarette lighter-type plug, which we have one down here. We'll plug that in. It'll power up. So we have that green light illuminated. And that's all there is to it with this. It's already synced up and everything, really nothing else left to do. And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the Demco supplemental braking system with the wireless CoachLink monitor on our 2012 Jeep Wrangler..


Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Thomas T
Video by:
Thomas T
Employee Joshua S
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Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
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Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B
Employee Michael B
Installed by:
Michael B

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