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Demco SBS Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System Installation - 2020 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

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How to Install the Demco SBS Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System Installation - 2020 Jeep Wrangler Unli

Hey there Jeep owners. Today on your 2020 Jeep Wrangler unlimited, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install Demco's Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System. There's five main components you'll need when flat towing your Jeep behind your motor home. You'll need your tow bar, which is the connection between your motor home and your vehicle, you'll need your safety cables, which is a supplemental connection in addition to our tow bar. We'll need our base plate, which is the connection point on our vehicle so we can attach our tow bar to it to pull it behind our motor home. You'll also needs your diode wiring, which takes all of the lighting signals from your motor home and transfers them to the lights at the back of the vehicle, so people behind your intentions when going down the road.

And lastly you'll need your supplemental braking system, which will apply the brakes in your vehicle when you hit them in your motor home to help you come to a safe stop.The Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System is going to apply the brake in your vehicle when you hit the brake in your motor home. It does that using the operating unit, which is basically an air pump and it pressurizes the cylinder here, which causes the anchor here at the back to pull our pedal towards the firewall, which applies it. And what's cool about the pump that it has on it on the operating unit is that it's also hooked into our brake vacuum system so that way we have power assist as well. It draws air from there and then it pressurizes here. So that way we get nice, smooth operation of our pedals.

If we take a look just to the left, we can see our control unit here. I still got the paperwork on it because we need to adjust for your first time setup.And we're going to show you how to do that here momentarily. But you can see here that it's GOT an on, off switch on it. So when you're normally driving it, you'll have it in the off position. And that'll ensure that there's no chance that your system could activate IF the breakaway pin gets pulled or anything it is now disabled.

Once we turn it on, the system is now armed and it's ready for us to flat tow. So now we're going to go ahead and adjust it. I've turned on the flashers inside of our motor home. We've got all of our wiring and everything hooked up, so we're fully hooked up for flat tow right now. I went ahead and just pulled that paper off of there.

And I've got the switch currently in the off position.So we're going to loosen this knob just a little bit and with the hazards on, that's going to send braking signal to our system, which can apply the pedal. But we don't want it to apply when we're at a stop. There's an inertia sensor inside here, and that's what we're going to adjust. So you can see it applying. We're going to push up on the knob just until it stops applying there. And we're going to go up just about an eighth of an inch from there. And then we're going to secure this knob back down. We've now adjusted our inertia sensor so it's not going to apply the pedal when we're at a stop, it's going to require feeling that momentum in order to apply the pedal. This is going to greatly extend the life of the brakes on our towed vehicle while we're pulling it because we're not applying too aggressively.And this is where our operating unit's located here underneath the vehicle. It's kind of a large box. So due to the limited space, this was one of the best places to put it where it's not going to be in the way of everything. And this is the unit that pulls the vacuum and the brake booster, and applies pressure to the cylinder attached to the pedal. Also, with your kit you'll receive a breakaway switch. And this is here for an emergency if you have a catastrophic disconnect, the tether that also comes included, it's attached to your motor home, it'll pull the pin here, which will then apply our braking system to help our vehicle come to a safe stop since we're no longer connected. I'm going, go ahead and pull the pin now and you'll see it applying. And you also notice here on the back of our mirror that once the pins pulled in and applies the pedal, the indicator will illuminateAnd then when it sits off it and is no longer illuminating and often you can see this in the rear view camera of your motor home. So you can monitor it while going down the road to ensure your systems working properly. We'll begin our installation by mounting all of our major components. I just recently got done getting the base plate installed. And when I had to install the base plate, the under shield here did have to come off. So I went ahead and left it off because it's going to make things easier to route all of your wiring and stuff to get everything mounted up. We can always install that right afterwards. So I highly recommend if you just put your base plate on, wait to put that on, and then start your braking system.We mounted the main unit right here, attaching it to the cross shield, that's right here. That's just behind our base plate. To get these mounted up we did drill out these holes using a quarter inch drill bit and then we used a nut and a bolt. Your kit does come with self-tapping screws, but this panel is pretty thin metal and I wouldn't trust just the self-tapper, so I highly recommend a nut and bolt. You can get those at your local hardware store, or if some of your other components may have come with some extra hardware, you might have some in there that you can use. We mounted the breakaway switch to the breakaway switch mounting location that is on our base plate here. Most manufacturers are going to provide a place for your breakaway switch. So if you don't have this exact base plate, you have a different manufacturer's they're likely going to have a spot for this as well.Here on the inside, we had some components to mount this shield right here, this little panel cover, it just pulls right off there, it just pins. So you can grab it on the side and just pull those out, work it off, and get that aside. That'll give you a little bit more room to work with as well as be able to see easier because it's quite open here. We mounted the actuating cylinder right onto our brake pedal bracket here. We just use the clamp that comes pre-attached to it here and just loosen up those nuts in this bar here, we'll slide off and you can slide this over your pedal with the studs, slide the bar on the other side, and then use the nuts to re-secure it. When tightening these down, you're going to use a 10 millimeter socket, but I don't recommend using a full tool.I usually just use the socket in my hand and just tighten it down as tight as I can get by hand with the socket. Because that's going to get it plenty tight. It is going to bend this metal a little bit. We don't want to over-tighten it and deform this metal. You can see here that just by hand this guy ain't going anywhere. It's nice and secure. Directly back from our cylinder, we installed the anchor that goes on to our firewall here. We did use a razor knife to cut out a little bit of the rubber shielding here on our firewall. Some of the insulation there, and that's going to let us mount this flush up against the sheet metal. And we just used the included self-tapping screw to run it right into the sheet metal. The anchor has a small set screw here on the end and you'll use a four millimeter Allen to tighten that down. The cable here, you see it's wrapped in a loop around it and you just want to pull this tight until you've got just a little bit of slack on the cable.You can see we've got a little bit of slack there. And then you want to just tighten this down until it keeps it secure. You don't want to over-tighten it because it can actually damage and break the cable. In most cases I found a nice snug spot is to just tighten it until it's flush. And that usually puts it in a spot that's tight enough to hold it, but not too tight to damage it. Next we'll need to mount the control unit for the inside. And that's going to mount here on our kick panel on the driver's side, towards the outside here. And we went far as back as we could towards the firewall, just to keep it out of the way for the driver here. It just uses some regular old screws that you'll just run right into the plastic. They're just a Phillips head and you run it right in there.You want to make sure that this guy is level like this and facing forward just like this because the inertia sensor is inside of it. On the backside of our mirror, we attached our led indicator. There's just an adhesive tape on the back. So just peel off the backing and then stick it on there. You might want to use a little bit of isopropyl alcohol here on the back to clean it up so you get good at fusion before sticking it into place. The wire we just routed up here in this panel and just ran it all the way down to the edge and then from there we go down our A pillar, but on the other side over here towards the door. We just tucked it in behind the plastic here, going down.A plastic trim panel tool makes it a little easier so you can pry this out just a little bit. You can see a little portion of the wire right there. We just kept tucking it in back until we get to the scene right here. And then we go over and we go in this gap. So that way we can get our wire back here near our module and keep it out of the way, we can hide any of the excess behind this panel. This wire is going to route over towards our stoplight switch. Now this doesn't come with our kit, but it's going to be necessary in order to make our indicator work properly because our brake pedal switch doesn't give us the correct signal to light the light. You can see the stoplight switch mounted here in the included bracket that comes with the stoplight switch. You can get those from Roadmaster here at switch is going to contact the arm here, coming right off the side of our brake pedal. This arm actually goes to the factory pedal position sensor, which is the stoplight switch for the vehicle. But again, being a pedal position sensor, it doesn't give us the correct type of signal to illuminate the light. This one here however, well, it's just a regular momentary switch. So when our brake pedal is depressed, it allows the switch to close, which turned our light on and then when it comes back it presses it against the tab on the switch, which then opens it turning our light off. The mounting bracket just mounts directly to the single bolt as far forward and to driver's side of our steering column there. Just take that nut off with a 13 millimeter socket, slide your bracket up, and then tighten it back down.And then there's two nuts on our switch here that we'll tighten down into our bracket. And there's two nuts because there's one on each side of our bracket. So you can set the depth to ensure that your switch is pressing against our part of the pedal here when the pedal is not being depressed. You want it to actually be pushing against that plunger when it's in its resting position. And when you push it, it will extend the plunger turning the light on. So you can see coming off of our stoplight switch there's two black wires. One of these needs to connect to a power source. And that's what this red wire is here. This goes out to our battery to get our 12 volt power. And then the other side here is going to connect to the red wire from our led indicator on the back of our mirror.That's going to send power to it when the switch closes, when the pedal is depressed. The black wire you see here is coming from our LED indicator as well down this little black sheathing here. And this needs to go to the black wire coming off of the interior control unit that we have just to the left here. So I used a piece of the green wire that comes with our stoplight switch to extend it over to that black wire. And the red wire you see here is also comes with our stoplight switch. We routed that outside. So first we're going to show you the green wire attaching and then we'll show you how to get our wires outside. We just use the included quick splices to splice those two wires together. Just slide both wires down into the slots from the quick splice and then squeeze the little metal tab until it goes down inside of the plastic.And then once it's down in there, that's going to connect the two together. So that gives us our ground for our light. Now, if we follow all these wires here, if we follow them just going straight up, you'll also see that we've got an airline hose here. All of these need to be routed through the firewall because we need to make connections to the unit that's outside. If you have a automatic transmission, then there's a grommet just up here from our control box where your master cylinder would go if you had a manual. So automatics we can easily use that. If you have a manual, you will need to find a different grommet or you may need to drill a hole into the firewall in order to get the wires outside. One of the easiest ways to get your wires through that grommet is to use the airline that comes in your kit as a pull wire.So I took that grommet out and I just drilled a hole in the middle of it. I used a 3/8 drill bit in order to give enough room for all of our wires and our hose. I slide the hose through the ground first because it's a lot easier because it's stiff, but it's flexible enough that we can get it around to where we need to. And once I get that pulled down here, I'll just use some electrical tape to tape the wires from our box to this fish wire, this little piece of airline here. And then I'll use that to pull it back towards the outside to get those wires out. Then you can just pull this piece back in and it just goes right into the quick connector here on our cylinder. Then we'll head outside and finish making our connections out there.Here you can see the other side of the grommet that we we're talking about right next to our brake booster here. That's where we fed all the wires out. The red wire that's going up over here is the one from our stoplight switch and all the wires here as well as our airline are coming from that control unit and then our operating cylinder there. So all of these and we're going to run forward towards our main unit and this one's just going to route across the back, over towards the battery. So these wires we just routed down underneath these air conditioning lines stayed underneath those till we got forward. Then we went across and you can actually do all this like up top here and then just poke them down because there's really nothing in the way. So then we go across there.And once we get over here to where our hood switches are that's when we go about straight down from there and we'll go underneath and you can see where those wires are going to come out. And you can see here this is where all of our wires come down right here. And our fender liner is actually right here and it's just a plastic fender liner. So to help yourself, you can actually just peel this aside and stick your hand up in here to help pull those wires down. Once we got them pulled down, we just ran them across the top of the frame to make sure they come out over here. We want to avoid any of our moving components here. So that's why we made sure to route them forward. First, we zip tied them up there and then we just come back just a little bit to make sure we don't come into any of our steering or suspension components.So now we need to connect all the wires we routed from our control unit inside down here to our operating unit as well. Some of them I'm going to tap into our doubt wiring. There's five wires that come from the unit inside. There's a black, a red, a green, a yellow, and a white. We're going to start with the black and the red wires. Those are just going to hook directly to the black and red wires coming out of our control unit right here. There's two wires here, black and red coming out. Those go to the black and red to the unit that's inside. We just cut off the excess once we've got it routed down here and we connect them together using heat shrink butt connectors. I highly recommend upgrading to heat shrink butt connectors from regular butt connectors in your kit since these are outside the vehicle, it's going to seal it up all the way around ensuring a long-lasting corrosion-free connection.Next, we have our green and our yellow wire. Both of these wires need to tap into our diode wiring. So that way, whenever our motor home hits its brakes, it's actually going to send that signal from the motor home to the lights at the back and to our control unit inside the vehicle, which is going to tell it when to apply the brakes. So to do that, you have your yellow and your green wire for your diodes. We just separated out the yellow and the green from the brown and the white, and then we just cut the green and we cut the yellow. And then we took the green wire from our unit inside, stripped it back, twisted it around to one side of the green wire from our diode kit, crimped it, and then we just crimp it back to the other end of our green wire from our diode kit.We do then the same thing here with the yellow wires to connect to those in. Lastly, we have a white wire from our unit inside and this is ground. We just routed this guy right over here to the frame. And then on the frame, we secured it using a ring terminal, which we just crimped onto our white wire strip that, that crimp it on, and then used the included self-tapping screw to run it into the metal here. And while we're down here, we can wire up our breakaway switch. There's only two wires coming off this breakaway switch. And we just route those up over the base plate to go near our control unit here. There's an orange and a black, the black wire is going to connect to the blue wire from our operating unit. And then the orange wire here is going to connect to the brown wire.And we've got the brown wire here because it does have one more little step because the brown wire from our unit also needs to go to the battery to receive power. So what we did is the brown wire here coming off the unit, we cut it pretty short and then we use all the rest of the length of brown wire because you get pretty long wires coming off of this unit. So all the rest of the length that we had, we just twisted those two together. We took that excess length and routed it to the battery and then connect it to the orange on the other side. We routed it across here. You can see our brown wire routing across. We're still going to do a little zip ties to clean it up. That's going to route up. And we used part of our leftover airline because we also routed that here to help wrap that up.Here's our airline that we routed down with our wiring. We cut off the excess when we got down here and then just poked this right into the quick connect. And again, you can use that excess as a pull wire to assist you with other wiring, if you need it, because you do get quite a bit of this airline. You're not going to use nearly all of it. When cutting your airline I highly recommend using a pair of tube or hose cutters. We've got some available here at They're a little bit smaller than this pair. This is more of a heavy duty pair, but the ones we have here are perfect for using with your airline and the vacuum lines that we have on this system. And they're great because you could see how once it's got a razor and the other one's got a flat surface.This ensures we get a nice clean cut. You can see it's nice and clean and we can make sure it's square. It's not cut at an angle. If you we're using side cutters or wire cutters, it squeezes the host first and then cuts it and you get a deformed shape on the end, almost like V-shaped and that's not going to seal properly. So you really need to have the right tool. While we're down here we're also going to talk about our vacuum line. We need to connect into the vacuum line for our power brake booster on our vehicle. You'll have a check valve that's pre-installed here on the operating unit. We're going to take the 3/8 hose that comes in our kit. We're just going to push it on there and then we're going to route this back up, kind of reverse order of how we routed our wires.The vacuum line that we had down below, we routed straight up it routes over to here. And this is our factory brake vacuum booster line. We need to tap into this so that way our system when it goes to pressurize the cylinder inside, it's going to draw air from here, which is going to pull a vacuum on our booster so we have power assist. So this is the line that we had coming from our unit right here. We cut this with our hose cutters and I did cut a small section out of this line, maybe about an inch worth in order to give us enough space for our components here. And we took a T that comes in our kit. We cut off small sections of the vacuum line that we routed up, about inch and a half sections. And we slid part of that hose onto our factory one and secured it with the included hose clamp.Our T slides into the other side, the hose routed up slides into one side of the T and the opposite side of our T we have another small section of hose that we cut, about the same size as this one. We then put the check valve in on this side and we want to make sure that the black side of our check valve is going towards the engine. So the clear or white side is going to be towards our booster. We then have another small section of line about the same size as the others that goes from our check valve, right back to the factory brake backing booster line and then we secure it with a hose clamp on there. You can tighten down your hose clamps with either a flat bladed screwdriver or an eight millimeter socket. So now we're going to focus back onto our power wire. So this is the one from our stoplight switch that we routed across and this is the brown wire that we routed up from down below.We crimped both of those to the same butt connector here. And on the other side, we hooked it to our fuse harness. The fuse harness is going to come as a loop when you get it, so just cut it in half. And then on one side, we attach that butt connector to it from those two wires. And the other side, we're going to connect a ring terminal too, and we're going to attach it right here to our battery. You can remove this nut with a 10 millimeter socket, slide the ring terminal on it, and then just tighten it back down. Now that we've got everything connected, we can go ahead and insert the fuse into our fuse harness. It's not going to be in there when you get your kit. And I recommend leaving it out until everything is fully hooked up so that we don't accidentally cause any shorts.The easiest way to test the system out to make sure that it's working is to pull our breakaway switch pin. This is going to activate the system when you pull it. You do need to have the switch inside on the unit flipped to the on position for it to work, if it's off then this isn't going to do anything. So we're going to go ahead and pull the pin. Now we've got it switched on inside. We can hear the unit activate. If we look up on our mirror, here we can see that the LED indicator is illuminated, which means that it has to be pulling our pedal. If you have an assistant with you, you can have them pull the pin just so you can check the cylinder to make sure it's pulling properly.You don't want to have any kinks or anything in your cable so we're going to acerbate it one more time. And we can see that it was pulling our pedal just fine. Everything was nice and straight. So at this point, I'm going to get just re-install the panel that I left off underneath, and then we can start hooking it up to our motor home and flat tow it. And that completes our installation of Demco's Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System on our 2020 Jeep Wrangler unlimited..

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