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Demco Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System Installation - 2019 Ram 1500

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How to Install the Demco Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System on a 2019 Ram 1500


Hey everybody, Ryan here at etrailer. Today on our 2019 Ram 1500, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Demco Stay-IN-Play Duo supplemental braking system with the wireless Coachlink monitor. There's gonna be a total of five main components needed to flat tow your Ram down the road safely. The first one's going to be your base plate and that's going to provide us with a solid and reliable connection point. That way we can hook our tow bar up to it. That tow bar is gonna be the second component.

That's gonna be the physical link that connects the front of your Ram to the back of your motor home. The third main component is going to be safety cables and these are there in the event of an unlikely disconnect. These are gonna keep your truck connected to the motor home. The fourth main component is going to be tow bar wiring and that's going to transfer the lighting signals from the back of your motor home, to the back of your Ram, that way other motorists all know your intentions as you're going on the road. And last but not least the fifth main component is going to be a braking system.

And what that braking system is going to do is apply the brakes in your Ram whenever you hit the brakes in your motor home helping to bring you to a more safe and predictable stop. When it comes to choosing a braking system it can be kind of a daunting task sometimes there's a lot of different options out there. And so you're gonna want to make sure you choose the one that's best for your setup. And honestly, I've had a ton of experience with this particular braking system. I'm a big fan of them.

They're really reliable. They work like they should super easy to set up and we really don't have any issues with them especially after you get some miles on them and everything else. It just seemed to work really well. And that's really important whenever you're flat towing especially when you're pulling a larger vehicle like the Ram here. You're gonna want something that you can depend on and help slow you down that way, you know, you're not relying on your motor home to do all the work, you know, putting all that wear and tear on the motor homes breaking system.

You're gonna need a little bit of help. And that's exactly what this kit is going to do. So one great thing about this kit is the fact that it's a proportional style braking system. So that means whenever you stop it's gonna be nice and smooth and just make your driving experience that much better overall. What proportional means is however hard you apply the brakes in the motor home the truck is gonna do the same thing. So to kind of give you an example of that. Let's just say for, you know, kind of rolling up to a red light and gradually hit the brakes, the Ram is going to do the same thing. On the other hand, let's say maybe we're on the interstate, accident up ahead something like that. And we got to come to more of an emergency stop. So really stand on that brake pedal to slow everything down quick, the Ram is going to accomplish the same thing. So overall, it's just gonna make your stopping experience much more predictable and safe. And one of the things that really helps separate this braking system from a lot of the others is our wireless Coachlink. So that's gonna be this little box right here that you can put up on your dash or you know wherever it's most convenient for you. And what this is gonna do is allow us to know if our braking system is activating or not. So once we turn our system on and we hit the brakes it is going to illuminate red. And if we're holding the brakes down for a few seconds we're also gonna get an audible beep too. And that's allowing us to know that our braking system is working. I will say one thing I would have liked to have seen on this is maybe a hood that kind of comes over this that way on sunny days like this I could see the lights a little bit better but not really huge deal and a nice touch as well is the fact that you can turn that buzzer off and on. So that's something that kind of, you know noisy a little bit after some time go ahead and turn that off. And you're not going to have to hear it. So a really convenient and a great way to keep an eye on things whenever you're flat towing down the road. So I mentioned how easy the system is to use and really all that's required to turn the system on is just to flip a switch on our G-Force controller. Now, in our case, it's a small box that's located right here just behind the driver's side dashboard. So here's our box and you can see that we have a toggle switch here. It's currently in the off position. So whenever you're not flat towing that's how you want it to be. But once you're hooked up to your motor home, got everything set up. All you're going to have to do is turn that on. And you're good to go. The kit is also gonna come with a safety device which is this here and that's known as the breakaway switch. So what would happen Let's say if there was an unlikely disconnect and your Ram separated from the motor home it would pull this pin, activating your braking system and it would help bring your Ram to a controlled stop. So at the end of the day a breaking system you really can't go wrong with. I have a ton of experience with these systems and they always work like they should every time. So really a great choice. Now there's one thing I do want to mention. This system will not work with motor homes that have air brakes. So keep that in mind. If your motor home does have air brakes a great choice for you and one that again I have a lot of experience with and works well is the Air Force One supplemental braking system. So that's your case. Definitely recommend looking into that, now far as the installation goes. It's really not super complicated but it does take quite a bit of time. You know, there's a lot of wires to hook up and a lot of routing and so on but good news as you only have to do it once. So as long as you stay focused really shouldn't give you a whole lot of issues. Speaking of which let's go ahead and do that together now. To begin our installation we're first gonna be on our vehicle side. And first thing we need to do is mount up some of our major components, the first one being the main operating unit. So I placed ours under the hood here on the passenger side, behind her air box. And there's actually a thick plastic housing that just kind of comes up and goes to nothing. And that's where I bolted our operating unit to. I did use a piece of scrap metal, just kind of made almost a bracket to help support it a little bit better. And so I bolted our operating units to that and then ran the bracket down through this plastic housing. And it's very secure out of the way and not going anywhere. Next thing we're going to take care of is what's called the breakaway switch which is this component here. And this is simply gets bolted to our base plate, just using a bolt so it's nice and secure, and it's a little tricky to see but there's gonna be two wires coming off of that breakaway switch an orange one and a black one. And these are gonna need to get ran up into the engine compartment. So what I did was I run it over through here and just right up behind the bumper where they come out into the engine compartment. So in the engine compartment here's where our wires come up. And while we're right here we might as well start to hook everything up. So the orange wire that comes off the breakaway switch. What I did is just extended it, maybe three feet just using an extra piece of brown wire that I had laying around. The kit does come with some extra wires. So you could use a different color. I just use brown for ease of understanding because eventually this will get hooked in to another brown wire. The black wire coming off the breakaway switch. What I've done is. Added an extra piece of red wire which does come in the kit. And I tied that in to the blue wire. That's coming from our main operating unit. I just made these connections using a heat shrink butt connector. But so I'll show you where these wires go. You just have them running up this way. So you can see that blue wire goes to our operating unit. The brown wire that comes out of our operating unit. Ends up getting connected to the brown wire from our breakaway switch, that wire that we extended. So those are those two connections right there. And what we're gonna do is route these wires along to the driver's side. So what you're gonna do is take that brown wire. That's gonna run to the driver's side as well as that extra red wire that we ran. And those are just going to run straight across over towards our battery. So here's where our wires run. Now the red wire, that's gonna go through a grommet in the firewall and see the driver's side floorboard which we'll get to in a moment. But for the time being, let's just focus on our brown wire. This is gonna need to get connected to a power supply. So I just routed that along here next to our battery. And what we need to do is hook up to a fuse holder. So I strip back the insulation on my brown wire. I'm gonna put on a butt connector. Now I am using heat shrink type butt connectors. They just provide us with a little more protection cause the end seal, but the ones that do come with the kit will work just fine or if you'd prefer to upgrade to the easy kit and grab them here at etrailer. So crimp that down, take our fuse holder make sure the fuse is not installed. And I'm just gonna cut this into half here. Then we can strip back both ends of the insulation. Give those ends a good twist. And, one end of the fuse holder is gonna receive a ring terminal, which will get crimped on. And the other end is simply just gonna go into that butt connector and get that crimped. And we can come back with our heat gun and seal up the ends. Once we have our ends sealed up, we can hook up our ring terminal to the positive battery post here. I'm gonna remove this nut using a 12 millimeter. So we can get that pulled off, slide on our ring terminal, and we can reinstall our nut. So now inside of our truck we're gonna be working here in the driver's front seat underneath the dashboard and what we're going to be doing under here is getting a few more of our components mounted up and some of our wires ran. So the first thing we're gonna do is mount up what's called our G-Force controller which is this component here. And I simply just use the included screws to secure it to our kick panel. And really the only thing you have to watch out for with this, is you want to make sure that it's facing the direction of travel. So you want this knob to be facing towards the front of our truck and you want it to be nice and level. So not only is from side to side but front and back as well. And it turns out our kick panel is found in the perfect spot and allows us to get this pretty much dead on. So pretty straight forward there. The next thing we can do is mount up our wireless Coachlink transmitter which is this component right here. And this is really straight forward. I just kind of put it tuck it down behind our kick panel a little bit. And there's a flat surface here. This comes included with a hook and loop strap that sticky on the back. So you can just use that to secure it. There is gonna be some wires coming off of it it's gonna be a total of two of them. And they're gonna have some butt connectors already pre-attached these two here. So there'll be a red wire that turns into a red wire and the black wire coming off of the transmitter it has that factory butt connector that turns it into a white wire. So we'll go ahead and hook those up now. The light wire what that's gonna do is just run right over to here and get connected to the black wire coming from our G-Force controller. And so I just used a quick splice to pair the two together. You'd simply push that quick splice over both of the wires. You use a pair of pliers to push down on the metal portion. That'll splice two together then you can close up the cap. So really straightforward and not a whole lot to it. The red wire coming from our wireless transmitter which is this one here is actually going to get connected to that red wire I mentioned earlier, the one that is coming from or tied in with our blue wire on our operating unit. So that's that right there. So that red wire that we ran that actually comes through a grommet. So here's a grommet there. You can poke a hole on it and that's how you get the wires into the firewall. With that said, I ran our G-Force controller wires which are all these right there through that same grommet out into the engine compartment. So those are out there. Normally we'll get those hooked up in a moment but for now we can go ahead and move over to our brake actuator cylinder. So the brake actuator cylinder is this right here and this is just gonna get mounted to your brake pedal arm. You don't want to put it up too high cause you won't have adequate leverage to press the brake pedal when the system's operating. But you don't want to have it too far down either cause then it'll kind of be in your way whenever you're just driving normal. So the spot right there's that sweet spot. And what you're gonna do is simply just take the nuts and wrap this bracket around your brake pedal arm and secure down. Now coming off the back of our actuator cylinder there's gonna be a cable with an anchor point. And what we're gonna need to do is secure that to the firewall. Now, when you secure this, you want that cable to be as straight as possible. That way the cylinder has maximum leverage on your brake pedal arm. So the way that you're gonna secure that cable to the firewall. Is by using the included bracket and self tapping screws. So that bracket, what I've done is just drilled it right into the firewall. You may need to cut your carpet back a little bit to give you some room, not really a huge deal though. And then you take your anchor and secure that as well. Now, before you do this, make sure you're all clear on the other side of your firewall. You don't want to drill into something important. In our case right here we had a ton of room, so pretty good shape, I suggest doing it like this as well. So from there you're gonna want to set the tension in or the slack on the cable itself. You don't want it too tight or too loose. You just want to be able to move that actuator cylinder just a little bit freely. Like this, and do that on your anchor point where the cable's attached to. There's gonna be a four millimeter hex head set screw on the top of it. And so you can either loosen that screw to pull out more slack or tighten it to remove the slack. And that's really all there is to it. As far as setting that cable tension goes. Now at this point, what we can do is get one end of our air line and hook it up to our actuator cylinder. And now this is just a push to connect quick fitting. One thing you want to be sure of is you want to make sure that the end of the air line has a nice clean straight cut like that. So you want to use a tool like this, a sharp utility knife or even the air tubing cutters. You don't want to use a regular pair of snips. That'll probably pinch or kink it. And you could to develop a leak. The way this works is it just plugs right in. You tug it back a little bit and make sure it doesn't come out. And that's really all there is to it. Now, the other end of the air line is gonna have to get routed again through the firewall. That way we can hook it up to our main operating unit. Now, in our case. You could use that same grommet that we use for our wires. However, I did find another one just kind of up above it, did the same deal poked a hole on it and pushed our air line through. So now back in the engine compartment this area right here is where all of our wires and our nylon air tube comes through firewall. And we're first going to focus on the white, yellow and green wires that are coming from our G force controller. So it's those right, right here. So these are going to get tapped into our diode wiring. So I just ran it along through here. The yellow wire's gonna get tapped into the yellow diode wire, green G-Force wire goes into the green diode wire. So cut our diode wires in half, strip back all the ends of the installation, twist then the ends of the wires together. So yellow to yellow, green to green instead of butt connector. And then simply just reconnected the other end of our diode wire into the other end of the butt connector there. The white wire, this is just going to get grounded or tied into the white wire from our diode wiring. In our case, we grounded our diode wiring right here to the stud. So that's where I grounded our white wire from our G-Force controller. So just crimp on a ring terminal remove this 10 millimeter nut, slid that ring terminal over the stud and tying it back down. Now we can go ahead and focus on the red and black G-Force controller wire, as well as our nylon air tubing. I'm just gonna route that over here to the passenger side, next to our operating unit, where we can get everything hooked up. So the red G-Force controller wire which is this one right here that's just gonna get connected to the red wire coming out of our main operating unit and same deal with the black G-Force controller wire. That one's just gonna get connected to the black wire from our main operating unit. As far as the nylon air tube goes what we can do is get this trimmed, make sure the cut's nice and clean, just like we did the other one. And that's simply just going to get plugged right into that fitting there on our main operating unit, the same way that we did the actuator cylinder. I'll go ahead and cut a little more of this tubing off. We'll just pop that right into place. Now what we need to do is get our vacuum line hooked up that way we can tap into our vacuum system. First thing I like to do is just kind of prep it. So what we're gonna do is take the check valve and on this white colored side, take about an inch and a half piece of hose and push it onto that barb fitting. Then we can take our vacuum tee one end of it. We're going to the other end of our hose there. So it'll look like this. We can just set this to the side for now. And if we look right here. We're gonna have a plastic vacuum line that goes into a port on our intake manifold but there's a few inches of rubber hose. And what I'm going to do is cut that right in the middle there. And that's gonna be a perfect spot for us to tap in. So go ahead and cut that. And then what we're able to do. Take our assembly here in the check valve side it's gonna get plugged in towards the engine. Like that. And then this end we can put, on top there you may have to remove the little plastic keeper there to give you that extra space but that's just gonna push on like so. And then what we can do is grab our big piece of vacuum line, and this is gonna get pushed on to the last remaining fitting there. The other end of our vacuum lines is gonna come over here to our main operating unit. And this is gonna get pushed onto the factory installed truck file there. At this point, we can come back to our fuse holder take the included fuse and get that installed. Now, before we get all of our wires kind of tidied up and make everything look nice and organized. It's a good idea just to do a baseline test to make sure the system operates on our vehicle side. That way, if there's any issues the wires are still easy to get to and we can resolve them. So with that being said, let's go ahead and run our quick test and I'll show you how to do that now. So just a quick basic way to test our system is pulling the breakaway pin here. Now you want to make sure that your G-Force controller on the inside is turned on actually. So make sure that a switch is flipped to the on position and pull out the pin. You should be able to hear your operating unit function as well as the brake pedal inside being depressed, now that the vehicle side is done. We can plug in our Coachlink. So this is super simple. Come into your motor home. You can put this wherever it's best for you wherever you can easily see it. And then we're just going to have to plug this in. So you will need a 12 volt power source here. And all you're going to have to do is plug that right in. So that's all there is to it. And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the Demco Stay-IN-Play duo supplemental braking system with the wireless Coachlink monitor on our 2019 Ram 1500..


Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Thomas T
Video by:
Thomas T
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B
Employee Michael B
Installed by:
Michael B

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