Derale Transmission Cooler Installation - 2009 GMC Yukon

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How to Install the Derale TranSMIssion Cooler on a 2009 GMC Yukon


Today on our 2009 GMC Yukon, we're going to show you haw to install the Derale series 8000 class four efficient plate fin transmission cooler kit with barb inlets, part number is D13504. At the beginning of our installation we're going to get this front bumper fascia area taken off. We've got one, two, three, four, five, and six bolts we'll take out. These require a ten millimeter socket. Now that we've got that loosened up we'll head around to the fender wells. In each fender we're going to have a seven millimeter bolt here at the top and here at the bottom. Then we've got a couple of push pin fasteners that we'll also have to take out. These take a seven millimeter socket.

Now we'll just head over to the driver's side, and we'll do that same thing. Now here on our underside we're going to be removing the ten millimeter headed bolt that's right here. You need a ten mil socket. Then we're also going to remove one remaining push pin fastener right here in front of the wheel. Like that. Now we got to do the same thing over on the driver's side. Now also on each side we'll need to take the fog light connector out of the back of the fog light.

You just push down on that tab on the top, and then just wiggle it to get that separated. Also here on the driver's side. Now we'll kind of pull out at each corner here; just start separating the fascia from the actual clips right here underneath the vehicle edge. With those separated we'll grab the grill on each side and start bringing it out. We'll set this aside because we will want to reinstall it later. Now for a mounting location we're going to go right up here in front. This is the ideal situation to get it right up in front.

It gives you maximum cooling power. We're going to be using the rigid mount kit from Derale. What we're going to do is go from one of our two mounting locations here and just use the brackets, kind of flex them, so we'll have a bolt going through here and then a self-tapper here on each side on the top. Then same thing here on the bottom. We'll go from our top mounting hole right back to that plate. Now we can make the connection of our hose, it's the loop length to the inlet and outlet.

Now it's either/or with this. You can pull both your caps off, in or out, in or out, doesn't matter. You will want to use a little transmission fluid; just going to lubricate each of the connections up here. Then we'll slide one end of the line on. All the way up on. We come to our other side. You just slide two of the hose clamps on and we'll connect this one. Bring one of our clamps down. Go ahead and tighten it down on each of the connection points. Now for mounting our cooler we're going to use the Derale universal metal mount kit, part number D13002. You can see we've kind of bent our brackets into a position that we think will kind of bridge that gap that we need. We're just going to use some self-tappers and fasten them right here on the front side. Now you can do nuts and bolts through the brackets there if you choose, but it seems like we need them to be just a little bit higher than that for this application. We're just going to get them started and bring them out here and go ahead and run them down. Leave a little bit of flexibility that way we can still kind of maneuver it once we get it in there. We'll do the same thing on all four of our corners here. Now we can just slide her back in there. We'll have to guide our brackets down below because we've got them set pretty close there, want them to be right on. And around. Should give us some good connection points right there, for sure. Now we just take the provided self-tappers and run it on in. Now we're going to just remove our overflow coolant line here. Give us a good look at the hose we'll be disconnecting down there. It's going to be this one right here. Now just put a little towel or something there to keep any of that extra from dripping out. That'll give us a little bit of room so we can get to that clip right there we want to remove. Right here this little metal ring. We'll need to hang on to that because that's what we'll re-secure our line with. We've got our connection made here. We've got our cooler in place. The situation we're running into is that most applications we just cut our 11/32nd hose here in half, run it up to the transmission connection. This isn't going to be long enough, the four foot section. We're going to add in D13003. That's going to be an 11/32nd four foot extension hose. It's readily available on our website. If you're going to mount it in this situation, in this area, which is ideal being right up front here where it can get the most airflow, you will need that extension hose. We're just going to undo this side of it. I can route that, keep my hose clamp with it, right up here where I'm going to be making the connection. Then we bring our extension hose in, and just like before, a little bit of transmission fluid on there just to help us slide it on a little bit easier. Once we've got it all the way on, we'll bring our hose clamp down and snug it up like we did before. We will also wrap our additional end the same place we did our other one. We'll be ready to make our connection into our trani line. We've got both of our lines up here, and the great news is there's really no in or out for our cooler, so it doesn't matter which one we connect to which side. One is going to connect . we wiggle out our transmission line here. One's going to connect right to the end of that. We'll trim off any excess we've got. We'll just slide the hose right on. We want to be sure we get it past the barb in it. Well past the barb, we want our hose clamp on that back side. It'll give us a little more room to work when you just push down on this tab, pop that clip off. You see how that trani line becomes a little more manageable. Just keep working that down on there. Once we get that far enough past, we'll just put our hose clamp on there to secure it. We'll take that back down and clip it back into its original spot. We'll take inaudible 00:09:03 hooked up. With that connection made we'll grab our other hose here, trim off any excess we've got. Then we're going to be bringing in part number D13035. This is the factory GM adapter, which helps us out because this means we don't have to cut or alter anything on the vehicle, as far as factory connections. Now slide this into our hose, we're going to wrap it up with a nice soft cloth. Just like that. Maybe use a pair of pliers or something to kind of hold it. You don't want to mar it; you don't want to scar it because that makes the seal inside of there. We'll just kind of . Up there will be good, we'll have plenty of room here for a hose clamp and still be able to connect that into the back side of the transmission. We'll slide that down on and tighten it up. Now we can take our adapter and slide it right into the back of the radiator and re-secure it with the clip. Now we'll take the coolant line, the overflow line here that we removed for visibility, and we'll pop that back on where it belongs and move the hose clamp back down into position. All right. Everything's hooked back up. All we have to do is test it. Now we'll go through, and with the vehicle running, drive it just a little bit. Then we'll kind of check each of our connection points here, just to make sure we don't have any fluid leaking, with the two out here where it meets the cooler, and then also the two where we connected into the line. Now that everything's sealed up we're ready to put our fascia back into place. We're just going to easily guide it back into place. If you run into any interference, just kind of keep working with it. We've got alignment tabs right up here on the top; be one, two, and three. We know if we get those lined up just like that that our tops good. Now let's put a couple of bolts in it to hold it there. Now we'll come to our corners here, get those lined up and clicked in. Then we can head to the underside and get it secured there. We're also going to slide our fog lights back in place while we're down here. We'll just place our bolts back in and tighten them up. Same thing on the driver's side. We're also going to get our little push pin fasteners back in while we're down here. Now that we've got the top and bottom secure, we know we've got everything square, let's finish up our top bolts. All right, and go tidy up the wheel wells. Now with our transmission in park and the vehicle running, we're going to check the fluid level here. Wipe that off, we'll get a good reading. Now it looks like for a cold transmission we're dead on. Let's go ahead and let it warm up. If it moves up we'll just adjust as necessary, get it right back to the appropriate level. Just kind of check for leaks again one more time, but if it hasn't leaked yet we're probably going to be in good shape. That's really all there is to it. That's going to complete today's installation of the Derale plate fin transmission cooler, part number D13504 on our 2009 GMC Yukon.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Kary T.

You should connect the cooler to the line that leaves the internal radiator cooler. The external cooler usually can cool the fluid beyond what the internal radiator cooler can do. SO you are actually flowing cooler trans oil into the radiator cooler defeating the purpose. In our garage we always install the cooler after the internal radiator cooler or just eliminate the radiator cooler all together.

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jon G.

We connected this transmission cooler in-line with the OEM transmission cooler so that the OEM cooler receives the fluid, and then passes it through to the Derale aftermarket cooler to optimize the cooling process like you mentioned.

P.t C.

That was probably the most well made, clear ,informative and helpful in every way possible video I’ve ever seen on vehicle diy. I’m impressed greatly. If only you didid videos on literally everything haha. Thanks

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Rachael H.

Thanks for your comment, we TRY to get as many videos of our products our there. We a continually working on adding new videos every day.

Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video Edited:
Andrew K
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Andrew L
Video by:
Andrew L
Employee Brent H
Installed by:
Brent H

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