Derale Series 8000 Transmission Cooler Installation - 2011 Chrysler Town and Country

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How to Install the Derale Series 8000 Transmission Cooler on a 2011 Chrysler Town and Country


Ryan: Hey everybody, Ryan here at etrailer. Today, on our 2011 Chrysler Town and Country, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Derale Series 8000 Plate Fin Transmission Cooler.Right off the bat, you can see we have our front bumper removed. No worries, that's just so we can actually see the transmission cooler, and how it works, because once the bumper is on, this has going to be completely hidden, for the most part.These Town and Countries are really versatile vans, and can do a little bit of everything, which does include some towing. A lot of our customers did some research to find out that their van is capable of that towing, but found out that the transmission tends to be the weak link, if you will. That's where the transmission cooler is going to come into play.What it's going to do is work in conjunction with the factory transmission cooler, but it's going to provide us with more efficiency, by lowering the temperature of our transmission fluid. That's really important, because he is the number one killer of transmissions.

The less heat we can produce inside of the transmission, the better it's going to shift, and the more reliable it's going to be.Really, there's two primary types of transmission coolers. There's plate fin styled, like we have here today on our Town and Country, and there's also tube fin style. I personally prefer the plate fin, and that's because it's more heavy duty, in my opinion. It's going to have these plates that run side to side, which, in turn, makes the top and bottom and the sides enclosed. So this is harder metal on the top and bottom, and obviously on the sides.So what that's going to do is provide us with more support, almost.

That way, these fans stay nice and straight, and they don't get beat up. With the tube fin, it's more or less, it's going to be a tube that kind of S's down along through, and everything's exposed. So there's a lot of room in between the fins, and over time, they're really easy to bend up, and just not as long lasting in my opinion.The way the additional cooler works is, the transmission fluid is going to come out of our factory cooler, through this hose. It's going to run over to our plate fin style cooler here. It's going to go in, and that fluid is going to run from this side over to this side.Now, when it's going over to this side, as we're driving down the road, fresh cool air is going to be blowing through that.

All these small fins are going to act almost as a heat exchanger, so those are going to be hot from the fluid, when the cool air goes over them, it's going to disperse that heat. As it's traveling over, the fluid's getting cooler and cooler, comes back into the hose, and back down to the return line that goes into the transmission.What a lot of people wonder, too, is what size transmission cooler they should get. In my opinion, this one is the perfect setup for the Town and Country. It's going to give us maximum surface area. That way, we will have the most cooling power, and it's almost going to fit perfectly where you would want it to be, even if it was a factory style option.It's going to sit right here in the middle, give us plenty of room to work, not take up a ton of space.

And by using these extra brackets that you can pick up separately, it almost volts up perfectly. So in my opinion, I wouldn't go any other way.I did mention those brackets. I would highly recommend getting those. And one other thing, too, is this fitting here, that plugs into the factory transmission cooler. That's going to make it super easy. You're going to put the hose on it, and just plug it right in, as if it we're a factory line. So I would definitely recommend picking this up too. And you can find those products here at etrailer.What's really cool too, is that once you have everything back together, as you can see, the transmission cooler is going to be pretty much invisible, so it's not going to take away from the looks of your Town and Country. Now, as far as the install goes, you are going to have to remove your front fascia, but it's really not too bad.Believe it or not, there's only a handful of fasteners, and everything pops off relatively easy. All the lines are easy to get to, and as long as you take your time, you should have no problem getting it done at home in your garage, or even in the driveway.To begin our install, we're going to be working here at the front of our Town and Country. Going to want to go ahead and pop the hood. And what we're going to do is remove the front fascia. That way we'll have a ton of room to work.To start, we're going to have some fasteners here along the top. We're going to have to push pin style fasteners, so you can take a trim panel tool, or a flat head screwdriver, to pry underneath the head, and then pull the whole base out. And if we move to each corner, we're going to have a 10-millimeter bolt.Now underneath of our van, along this front edge, we're going to have four plastic push pin style fasteners. Again, we're going to take our trim panel tool or flathead, and just pry those out.(silence)While we're under here, if your van is equipped with fog lights, we'll go ahead and unplug them now. They're going to be right here. And the way to get them out is, there are just going to be clips on each side. So you kind of take your fingers, and pull the two sides apart, and pop it down like that. I'm going to repeat that process for the other side.Over here on our driver's side, we have this piece of plastic that kind of runs over and connects to our wheel well liner, and there's a push pin style fastener in it, so we're going to pull that out. In our case, this is just on the driver's side. There may or may not be the same fastener here on the passenger side.It looks like our panel has been removed prior to this, so just keep that in mind. If you have this setup on the other side of your van, you're going to have to pull that fastener out, as well.We can move over to our wheel Wells. We're going to have two Phillips head screws that we need to pull out. And if we continue to follow up right here, where our front fascia meets the quarter panel, there's going to be a 10-millimeter bolt. So we'll pull that out too. Now that we have this removed, we're going to repeat this same process on the other side.Now with an extra set of hands, we can remove our fascia. So we're going to start at the corner here, where our fascia meets the quarter panel, and you can just carefully pull towards you, and work it out. If it's fighting a little bit, there are some really small clips in there. It's a little tricky to see, but what we can do is take a small screwdriver, or something, to kind of poke it down, and pull it off.We're just going to keep working it towards the center. Once we have it off, we can carefully pull it back and make sure that we don't have any electrical connectors, which we don't. Now that we have it off, we can set it to the side somewhere safe.Now with the fascia removed, we can see our factory transmission lines, which are these two right here. So we need to figure out which one that we're going to be working with, it'll be the cooler of the two.What I mean is, you want to start your vehicle, let it get up to operating temperature, and then you can feel these lines by hand, and one will be noticeably cooler. That's the one that we want to work with. In our case, it's going to be this bottom one right here.With that being said, I checked it, kind of let everything cool down for a minute, and we're going to disconnect this line. So we're going to have this little dust cover we need to pop off. Just take a screwdriver, and kind of pry that out of the way.Then there's going to be a really small clip. With that dust cover pushed back, it exposes this really small clip. We're going to have to pull this clip out. I want to say, you want to be really careful what these, because it seems like, if it gets away from you, it shoots over to the garage corner, and it's really hard to find. So just take your time when doing this.But you can take a little pick like this, small Flathead screwdriver, kind of pry underneath it, lift it up a little bit. I'm going to grab a set of needlenose pliers and pull that clip out.What we can do now is grab our new transmission cooler, and get it preassembled, more or less. So what we're going to do is, grab our cooler and the included line. One end of the line, we're going to take a clamp, slide that over, and this end of the line is going to go to either one of these barbed fittings here.What I'm going to do is just take some transmission fluid, just kind of put it over there to give us some lubrication, to make it a little easier. This is simply just going to push all the way over it like that. Push this clamp up. We'll just let it kind of hang for now. And what I'll do is just repeat that same process for this side here. I'll take my clamp, slide it on, and push it over.Now that we have both of our ends connected, and go ahead and snug down both of the clamps. You don't have to crank down on these. You just want them relatively tight.Now we can do is mount up our transmission cooler. How I'm going to do this is, I'm going to use this universal mounting kit, which you can find here at etrailer. It's just some metal brackets. What I think I'm going to do is for the top here, I think I'm going to utilize these factory bolts up here, that these little brackets are going to, pull that out with a 10-millimeter, take one of the brackets, line up that very top hole, and put that back in.I'm not going to tighten it 100% right now. I'm just going to get it hand tight. That way, if I need to adjust it, I'm still able to do that. Same thing with this one. Just slide that behind there, get it hand tight.We can kind of pull them brackets out a little bit to give us a little more clearance. Then we can twist these in, until we get the holes to line up. So one of them, we may have to bend a little bit more, don't look like they're going to come in close enough. And as opposed to drilling new holes in this top fin here, what I'll do is kind of try to bend this out, maybe even notch a little bit, that way we can work it all the way over there.I just put a small notch in our bracket there, with some snips, and that'll allow us to clear this piece of metal and have full adjustability, the same thing on this side, too. Well, with that being said, we're going to hit our cooler loosening and stuff.I'm using some stainless steel hardware. This is not included, so you will have to pick this up separately. And what I'm going to do is take the head of it, run it through the back, slip our cooler over it. And I'm using a nylon lock nut. That way, we don't have to worry about it rattling loose or anything.I'm just going to get everything hand tight right now. That way, we can adjust it if we need to, and put where we want it to, to where it looks the cleanest. Now that we have this in the position that we want it, we can figure out how we want to secure the bottom side. What I think I'm going to do is take our two other brackets, and down here, in this part of the transmission cooler, I'll probably bend these at a 90-degree angle, connect them to it, like so.Then we can kind of push it how far back we want it, just at level, and then I'll grab a self-tapping screw and secure it into the bumper there. So here's what I came up with with our brackets. Pretty straightforward at the very end, I just put a 90-degree bend in it, and it gets connected to the bottom plate of our transmission cooler here.Now I want to mention, once we push this back flush where we want it, it's going to be really tricky to get to the back side of the bolt, to hold it still, so we can tighten the nut down. While this is loose, I'm just going to tighten down these two.We're also going to do the same thing with these two top bolts. So what I did was kind of get it where I want it, nice and straight, and I held it in place and just took a pen and drew a line there. That way, I can keep it where I want it, or know that was a correct position. So, kind of pull this out a little bit, so we can have some room to get back there, and we'll tighten this bolt down.Now that our brackets are tightened to the cooler itself, we can come back up here and snug the 10 millimeters back down. What I'm able to do now is push this back, until we get it nice and flush where we want it, to where it looks clean and straight. What I'm going to do is just use a small drill bit, and create a pilot hole. That way we can run our self-tapping screw through much easier.I went ahead and used a self-tapping screw on this side, after we pre-drill the holes, and I'm going to do the same thing over here. Now that we have our cooler all mounted and secured, we can work on hooking it up to our factory transmission lines.If you move back over here, to the line that we loosened up earlier, we can actually pull it out of the factory cooler, pretty straightforward, just kind of wiggle it out, and that'll pop off. If you bring it towards us a little bit, this dust cover, we're going to pull that off as well.What we're going to do, this line here, we're going to run it over to it, and just kind of eyeball the length. So that looks pretty good, somewhere in there. I'm going to use a pair of snips to cut it. And we can grab a hose clamp, slide it over that end. We're going to work this hose onto the factory line.Once we get that slid over the factory line, we're going to take our clamp, put it over it, and snug it down. This hose needs to get connected back to our factory cooler up here. To make life a lot easier, I'm actually using this adapter fitting, which you can find here at etrailer.The way this is going to work, it's going to plug into the hose, and this is going to simulate the factory end, so all we're going to have to do is push it in there, just like the factory one. With that being said, this end here, I'm going to take that dust cap that we removed, slide that on. Then we're going to get a clamp, put it over the hose, and then push this fitting into place.When you push a hose on this, you don't want to go all the way to the very end, because this fitting does go into that factory cooler, and with this dust cap here, so you want to give it a little bit of room. Once we have it on there, go ahead and snug our clamp down.So I routed our hose over to that fitting, and just come along back through here. Once you have everything plugged in, you can always come back and clean it up a little bit. But what I did, too, there's a little plastic or rubber piece here, that's kind of a cover. And I just used a pair of snips, and just kind of cut that out to give us some more work inaudible 00:20:26.This fitting is going to plug into the factory cooler here. So that'll just pop in. Once we have it pushed all the way down, we need to take that small clip, and re-install that. So be very careful with this. Just going to push it around there, and push it into place. So you'll feel it kind of lock in, just like that.Once we think we have it locked in, you want to grab the hose, and pull back on it, to make sure that it's not going to come out, which it isn't. A little bit of movement is normal. As long as it doesn't pop completely out, we're in good shape. Now that we have that in there, we can take our dust cover, and push it back over.So I went ahead and just used some zip ties, to kind of clean our hose up. And I do want to mention, whenever you route this, you want to be sure to not have any really tight bends or kinks in it. You don't want this hose to get pinched. So keep that in mind. You want to make sweeping fins.At this point, you want to make sure all your fittings are dry, because what we're going to do is start our Town and Country up. So I went ahead and let our Town and Country run for awhile, get it up to temperature, kind of went through some of the gears, and got out here and checked for any leaks. So you want to check all those fittings and make sure they're nice and dry. All of ours were.If you do notice a leak, what you're going to do is let everything kind of cool down, and maybe readjust your lines, re-snug your clamps down a little bit more, make sure everything's nice and dry. Start it up and check again.Once you're sure that everything is sealed, and we have no leaks, we can go ahead and re-install our fascia the opposite way that we removed it. Back underneath, don't forget to plug back in your fog lights, and re-install all the push pin fasteners. And that'll finish up our look at, and our installation of, the Derale Series 8000 Plate Fin Transmission Cooler on our 2011 Chrysler Town and Country.


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