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Dexter Trailer Hub Assembly Installation

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How to Install the Dexter Trailer Hub Assembly

Today we're going to take a look at and show you how to install the Dexter Axle EZ Lube Trailer Hub Assembly. This has the 6 on 5 1/2 inch bolt pattern and it works great for 5,200 pound and 6,000 pound axles. Part number is 8-201-9CU3-EZ. Now, on the rear axle we've left everything just as the trailer rolled in, so now we'll go ahead and show you how to install it. First things first, we're going to remove the knock off cap that goes on the end. This is essentially a grease cap. There's a rubber cap here that allows us to get into our greaser we just want to get this out of the way using a rubber mallet.

We're not going to be reusing it so if we dent it or ding it up a bit, it's not really a problem. The new hub that we're going to be putting on comes with a new cap. Now we can take some shop towels and start wiping out some of the grease that's inside of there. Believe it or not, behind all that gunk there's going to be a cotter pin on the nut that we're going to remove. We'll just get enough out of there so we can see what's going on. Here you'll see our cotter pin, it's hiding in there.

Here's the bottom of it. Here's the top. Usually a pair of needle nose will do a good job of getting this straightened out. You'll want to line those up and then we'll pull down here on the bottom to try to get it to come through. Here you'll see the cotter pin that we removed. Most of the time, you're going to bend them, twist them or damage them.

We could pop that back out, just kind of tap it with a hammer, flatten it back out. This would be about on the marginal side of salvageable, but you can certainly order a couple here at etrailer that way if it does happen you'll have them there and be able to take care of it. Now here we have the larger hub nut. What we want to do is loosen that up. Once we have that off, we'll hold onto it because we will be reusing it, as well as the washer that sits right in behind there. Now with those removed, right behind that washer is going to be outside barring.

We're just going to kind of work this bearing out. Now, we are replacing the hub, so this bearing we're not going to be saving. If your not replacing the hub, then your going to want to save your bearings and you can just repack it with grease, unless it's got some kind of damage or something to it. This one doesn't want to come out the easy way, so we're just going to kind of start wiggling our drum forward and it's going to try to fall out on the leg there. Now, we'll take a second to just kind of clean this up. Here on the bearing you see that we don't have any pitting in any of the rollers or anything like that. There's no signs of excessive wear, you'll see marring or you might see where metal has been in there. Also you want to look at your grease. Make sure your grease doesn't have any little pieces of metal in it, because if it does it's likely that your bearing at some point is coming out. Those will be a couple of easy ways to look at your bearing and tell whether it has excessive wear, if it should be changed or not. If you do see wear on the bearing itself, the next thing you want to do is look at the raise. The raise is going to be just inside here the slightly beveled area that runs all the way around our spindle. We'll also kind of look at that surface. If it has any pits, any damage, or any kind of marring or anything like that, then the hub would also be something that you want to replace. Let me go ahead and take this the rest of the way off and let's look at the inside here. Now you can see where we have some grease and some grime that's made it to the inside of our hub. For a standard electric rake replacement you certainly wouldn't want to put this hub back on. It's got a lot of grease and a lot of grime built up where our magnet is going to stick on to it there. It's just not going to give us the breaking power. We have this large seal right here. This would be the seal that you want to replace. Certainly don't want any grease in our breaking system. Now to determine if this is the right hub to use or if we need the one that has the slightly larger seal, we're going to measure right here on the spindle. See our spindle comes back, first bearing, second bearing, and then that grease seal goes right around there. We're going to use kind of a dial caliper here. Bring this in. You can see there that once I get it squared up it sits right there at 2.124/2.125 that means it's 2 1/8 inch. If it we're the 2 1/4 inch, it would be an 1/8 inch bigger and this measurements would be 2.25 it would be right there. Very minimal difference, it's important to use a caliper if you have one available so we can get it exactly right for you and send out the right seal so it's going to work on your trailer. Most situations you're going to have a nut and then a lock washer behind that. The break assemblies aren't going to come with new hardware, so you want to hang on to that, both the nut and the lock washer off of each stud. Let me just set those aside for reuse later. It's time to give this a little wiggle, it will come right off there for us. Now that we've got that out of the way, we can take this opportunity to really clean up the spindle, get all the grease and anything that was on there off. Once we get all that grease off just inspect your spindle. Cool thing about the assembly is your only going to be able to put it on there the right way. See it says "Right hand" and your two lower bolt holes are spaced out enough to where they won't go on in the wrong position. We want to get those lined up. With those lined up, you see the five studs come right through that break for us. Then we can take each of our lock washers and slide those back on. We can start putting the nuts on, then we'll tighten them down. Kind of like a tire, I like to do it in a star pattern. Before we slide our drum and our assembly on there, what we're going to do is pull out on the little silver adjuster here on the rear. Then rotate this clockwise. That's our adjuster. What this is going to do is allow our break shoes to kind of come in for now. Once we get everything on there we'll make our initial adjustment and then we'll never have to worry about that again. You see our two wires that we've got that we're originally on our trailer. We need to get just a little more room with those to work. Let's pull that back. Trim that off. Then we can strip the ends. Spin the end on each one of those. Slide on our butt connectors. These are heat-shrink butt connectors, really good idea if you're doing any wiring outside of the trailer to use heat-shrink, and then also wrap them up with a little electrical tape when you're done. We do carry these heat-shrink butt connectors on our website, you can find details on them there. After we get our connection made there, always push and pull on it. Make sure you've got a good bite. The last thing you want is those to come undone while you're heading down the road. Looking good there. You can use a heat gun, you can use a mini-torch, or what we've got here is just a regular ole lighter. We'll heat those up and get them to shrink down. If you're going to use a lighter, use the blue part of the flame if you can. It won't put any of that black carbon kind of build up stuff on there. As far as the wiring goes, it doesn't matter too much whether you put the white one one the left side or the white one on the right side. We're just looking to pass current through that magnet so it operates. We just want it going in one and coming out the other. It doesn't matter which one. Now, we'll take our electrical tape and we're going to go around that as well, just to give us a little extra vapor barrier here. We don't want any moisture getting in there if we can help it. Also with the hub assembly, you're going to have your seals, your bearings, your lug nuts, new dust cap for the end. In two separate bags. What I like to do is take this bag and lay it down on the ground. Then we'll take this bag, and just kind of unload it on to that bag. See your dust cap, dust cover, and then the lug nuts. I'm going to put those all together. Here you'll see our two bearings. See our smaller one for the outside, our larger one from the inside. It's going to have that center section that stays put, while this allows our tire to freely spin. This gives you an idea what a brand new bearing looks like. What the rollers look like on it. If your not doing a hub replacement, you want it to look pretty much like this, except it will have some grease in it. Going to grab a wad of grease, put it in the palm of our hand, then we're going to pack our bearing. You can use a bearing packer. Sometimes they work great, sometimes they don't. What we're going to do is take the end that has the larger gap in it, it's usually the larger side of the bearing. Stick it around our index finger and we're just going to start working grease into that slot and pushing it up through the rollers. Then when properly greased in that area. You see that one, two, and three, those little shoots of grease that have come up through. That's going to let you know that you've got it past all the way through. Once we've got that fully packed up, we'll clean off the excess and that outside bag that we we're setting stuff on makes a great spot for that to rest. Got the smaller one done, we'll do the bigger one. The bigger one of course is going to hold a little bit more grease than the smaller one did. Now, we've got our new hub assembly. We're going to take a handful of our grease here. This is going to go down inside. It's going to be a little gap kind of all the way around the outside. We just want to fill that up. Then any grease that we might have got outside of that hole, let's clean that off. If you happen to drop a big wad of grease down in there or something, not a big deal, a little bit of Break Clean can get that off. You don't want to use carbon choke cleaner that's got a lubricant in it, so keep that in mind. Our larger bearing is going to sit right down inside, just like that, then this is the seal. This is the one that's the 2 1/8, some of these do require a 2 1/4 that's where you have to measure. If you didn't want to wait, if you didn't want to pull one off, measure and wait for your parts to come, you can order the kit that will have the 2 1/8 inch seal kit in it and then also order a 2 1/4 inch set of seals so you've got your bases covered. We're going to set that down with the plastic lip to be facing us, we'll just lightly tap all the way around the outside. You'll hear, it will kind of change tones right when it starts. Once we hear that change a little bit, that's when we get our block of wood. Go all the way around, just like that so it's seated firmly. One more time go around it to clean it up just like that. This is ready to go up onto our break assembly. We'll just bring that up you can kind of bring the spindle right through the center there. It will go back on. As you can see, it's nice and lose, that's why we loosened up that break kit a little bit, that way this is going to go back on there without big issues. Later we can readjust that out when we get our initial settings done. We got our smaller bearing we're going to place in there. This is going to be just the reverse of when we took it off. Using the new parts. Now we'll get our washer put back into place and also thread on that nut that we removed. We'll tighten that nut down until it stops. We'll hear we got good contact, it doesn't roll too much. Then we'll line up our cotter pin hole. To do that we're going to back off the nut until it lines up with our hole location. We're going to place our cotter pin in. Sometimes it will go in real easily, this one is kind of a curved set up. This one is going to kind of want to spread out on us some. We'll take our cotter pin, place it in and just kind of tap it into place. With the EZ lube style that we're using here, it kind of goes in and it turns and it comes down. Sometimes it can be kind of a bear to get in there. Just take it easy with it. You see we get it inside the outer rim there, you'll see here at the bottom the two legs of that that had come out. Take our needle nose and bend those opposite directions of each other, just like that. Now, let's put our dust cap on. Just like we took it off, a little rubber mallet probably the best thing for the job. Just tap around the outside and try to get it to go on in there. You kind of hear it there, it's going to change pitch once we've got it all the way in and seated in against it. We'll take our grease gun, put it right on the greaser that goes on the end, start adding some. With the EZ lube hubs here we want to add it nice and slow, spin it and try to help it go all the way around. You can see here, all the way around the outside, that ring of grease that we've now got there. That wasn't there before so as we add grease in, it's going to fill up, and fill up, and fill up. Once it's visible all the way around there we'll know we have plenty in there. Now we've got our dust cover that's going to fit in the end of that cap, or maybe the dust cap that's gonna fit in the end of the dust cover, whichever way you want to say it. We'll just push that in, let it slide in that groove, now we can put the tire back on. If you've got a new hub, like we've done today, you're going to have new lug nuts that'll come with it. If your just doing the break replacement then you won't have the new lug nuts, you'll have to re-use your old ones. Now that we've got that on, we can check it out. You're going to hear our breaks. As you can see, it's spinning a little too freely so we need to make that initial adjustment we talked about and tighten that up some. Here on the back side you'll see that we've got two oblong holes. We're going to be focusing on the one closest to the rear here, but inside you'll see that yellow spring and also that silver level that was on that adjuster. Remember when we had the hub off we showed that to you. Now what we're going to do is reach in there and we're going to push that wheel away from us so it will go counter clockwise and it's going to expand those pads out, or those shoes out. We'll adjust it a few times, check our tire. If it still spins to freely we'll adjust it a little bit more. Yeah, see how that still allows us to spin nice and free but it's going to stop the tire pretty quickly before it would make a full rotation all the way around. You always want to remember when you're done to torque your wheels down to whatever specification the manufacture of your hub's deemed for you. With that torqued down, all we have to do is repeat that same process on the other three remaining tires and everything will be back, better than it was when it was new. With everything put back together and with our wheels back on, that's going to complete today's instillation. With everything tightened back down, that's going to complete today's instillation of the Dexter Axle's Trailer Hub Assembly. For the 5,200 and 6,000 pound axles. Part number is 8-201-9UC3-EZ. .

Info for this part was:

Employee Patrick B
Installed by:
Patrick B
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S

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