bing tracking image

Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring Kit Installation - 2015 Chevrolet Captiva Sport

content loading

Customers compare RM-154 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install the Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring Kit on a 2015 Chevrolet Captiva Sport


Today we're going to be showing you how to install the Roadmaster Universal High Powered Diode Kit for Towed Vehicles. Part number on it is RM-154. Now for the front we're going to use the plug and bracket that come with the Roadmaster Seven to Four Wire Flexo Wire Kit. That part number is RM-164-7. The short bracket we have here is part number 18140. Now this is what our kit's going to look like.

The main purpose of this kit is to allow us to tow a vehicle safely behind our RV with the lights working on the back of our car, just like they are on the back of our motor home, so we're giving everybody signal. What we're going to do is we're going to take signal from our RV using either this four pole to four pole jumper cable or whatever jumper cable you might choose. In our case, our customer wants to use the four round, so it's very easy to switch that. Then whatever connector you decide to use, it's going to plug right into the front. That's going to take the right turn and brake, the left turn and brake, the running light signal, and also ground from our RV back to the factory lights on our vehicle so we don't have to have any kind of extra light kits or anything like this. This is going to stay installed. Now, this kit is really one of the best kits on the market for protecting both your RV and your vehicle.

We're going to have one input from the RV that goes into one side of the diode. We're going to have one input from our car that goes into the other. Now, if our RV is sending signal in, it can only go out this side. It can't loop back in and get back into our car's circuitry, and the same for our car. It can't send signal in and then back out to the RV, so we're not going to have any back feeding at all there.

That's going to allow us to take either of those signals that we want to use, whether we're connected to the motor home or connected to the car, and operate our light with that. You'll see three of them are going to look just the same. These are going to be for our running lights, left blinker and brake, right blinker and brake. The one with the larger connector that you see here, we're going to use that as a jumper wire to bring our brown wire from one side of the vehicle over to the other. We'll show you how to take care of that, it's not really a big deal. In case we do need to do any wiring extensions we do have some butt connectors. We've got a supplied ring terminal there, that's what we're going to use to ground out our plug.

You're going to have some zip ties here to help us secure all of our wiring. I usually go through this many, and probably about that many more, just so you have an idea to have some of those on hand. We've got some wire loom here in case we need to protect any of our wires if they're going over any kind of rougher surfaces where we're worried about abrasion, and we'll have a full kit of instructions here to show us how to do our installation. Now, to start we're going to get our wiring mounted to our plug here on the front. If you're going to use the standard four pole connector that comes with the kit you'll just want to secure this off wherever you intend to have it up front. Some people just zip tie it off to their tow bar. Whatever you want to do there. Since we are switching over to a four pole round, we're going to cut that off and we'll show you how to wire this directly into the back. We can snip these off. If you do happen to need a vehicle plug end, you could use that and just cut it off a little bit of pigtail. Now, this particular plug's going to have a set screw right here in the bottom of it. Back that screw out. That's going to allow us to pull that plug insert out. This little groove, that's going to be up, so we'll want to keep that in mind. Now, as we run our wires from the front of the car back to the back, we want to keep it up and out of the way. We don't want it hanging down. Want to keep it safe and secure where it's not going to have any sharp edges or anything like that to rub on. I'm going to go from the front kind of over to this edge, and right on top of the sub frame here. Then we'll tie in with our brake lines and fuel lines back there. Just to make it a little easier on ourself for now, we're going to bring this up and around behind our fascia before we get it connected. That way, we're not trying to drag 30 feet of our wire up and through. Bring those through like that. Once we have our plug on we'll take care of getting that all zip tied off nice and securely. We'll open our cover, we're going to bring those right out of the front. Then we'll strip back the end of each one. Now we can loosen up the four screws that are on the back side of our plug here. We're going to get those attached. Now, if you are using this style of plug you'll want to wire it up the same way that we do. Our white is going to go the bottom right side, and that's going to to be our ground. Once that's in there that set screw is just going to be tightened back up, everything nice and secure. Now the one just above that is going to be the yellow one. That's going to be for our driver side turn signal, also the brakes. Just to the left of there is going to be the green wire, that's for our right turn and brake. Then the last one's going to be our running light. That's going to go in the bottom left hand side, where our ground is there. Remember that little groove that goes up towards the top. Pull that in so we align the hole, and the we'll put our set screw back in. Now we can take the slack out of here. We're going to get this zip tied off around and run onto the back of the car. Once we've confirmed that everything's working and our connections are good in here after we have everything installed, we do like to take silicone and fill in the back of that plug so you won't have any moisture, dirt, or debris getting in there causing corrosion issues. I also like to use some black electrical tape on the first, I don't know, foot or so of our wire here. That way if you ever see it behind the fascia there you're not looking at a bunch of different colored wires. As we go along we just want to do a good job of keeping our wires secured. Use plenty of zip ties; that's why I tend to run out of them all the time. As we head back from here we want to keep this down and out of the way, so we'll need a few longer zip ties and we'll go right around that sub frame there. That should keep it nice and secure. Now, once we get back to this point, I like to just use the brake lines here and zip tie off to those as we go back. You can see they've got nice brackets set up, so that gives us good anchor points as we go. Now once we get back to about here on the vehicle I like to start looking for a good ground stud that we can use to secure off that white wire. It'll be time to trim off our plug here on the end. Again, if you need that just cut off some slack and you can hang onto that. We don't, so we'll just get rid of all of it. Once I've got that off we simply just pull on that white wire, we can separate that from our other three wires. We've got a little bracket right here, you can see it's got a flange bolt on it. That'll be a good spot for ground, so we can just trim that white wire off there. Now, we're going to hang on to our excess, because we may need that to make that jumper wire in the back. Bring that down, let's go ahead and get this connected. Let's get that stripped back. Now, we had to use a little bit bigger ring terminal for it to fit that bolt. Every application's going to be a little bit different. We've gone with a 3/8 diameter hole there. Those are available on our website if you want to pick one up. We'll use a 13 millimeter socket, now we can remove that stud. Place our ring terminal on and right back in. Then we can take whatever excess we might have, we'll zip tie that off here. We'll continue forward past the gas tank here. Once we have a good anchor point right here behind the fuel tank, there's a cross member that runs over to the passenger side here. I'm going to split the green wire off just like we did the white wire, and I'm going to start running it that way. Right above that cross member going all the way across is a nice, thick wire loom, so we'll go right with that and we want to follow it down right underneath the frame rail and towards the back corner on the passenger side. With our wires ran back to each corner, it's time to pull our taillight housings out. We're going to test the wiring there to see what wire controls which function. Once those two bolts are out we're just going to loosen it up, kind of lean it over. You'll see the way that wire's going to come out of the vehicle, runs into the back of the lights here. This is our reverse light. This is our standard amber blinker. This is always a running light, and this is your running light plus your brake. What we're going to use is this one for our running light, and we're going to be using this one for our turn and our brake signal coming from our RV, so we're only going to have to tap into one light here. We can use that one bulb for both functions. We don't have to worry about adding additional diodes or anything like that. Now, we'll want to have somebody in the vehicle to run the lights for us. We'll start with the running lights, we'll have those turned on. With those on we'll check and see if it's the blue wire or the black wire that's sending the signal through. We're going to do that with a test light. Off, and back on. All right, so it looks like our running light signal here is going to be the blue wire. We've got that, we'll tap our diode in there. Now we need to find that brake signal. It's going to be in this upper bulb area here. Likely it's going to be that red wire, but we need to check it and make sure. Will you please apply the brakes The brakes on we'll test it, and off, and back on. The red wire's going to be for our brakes. Now that takes care of our driver side. We'll test our passenger side in a moment, but I do want to, you see how these bulbs will just kind of turn and rotate out I want to get these out of this housing so there's no risk of it pulling down on the housing and causing any kind of stress on those wires. All right, we'll set this aside somewhere safe. Now we'll test our passenger side. Looks like everything's coded the same, but we'll want to be sure. Running lights, please, and off. All right, so blue wire is in fact for our running lights. Should make our red wire for the brakes, but let's check it. Off, back on, yeah. Same on both sides. The blue wire for our running lights, red wire for our turn and brake signal is what we're going to wind up using it for. Now to get our wires from the bottom of the car up here to the top we need to use some form of pull wire. You can use a coat hanger; what we've got here is just like a air line tubing. We're going to poke that down through the small gap and then we'll try to find it underneath where we can pull it down, that's going to allow us to pull our wires up and through. Now we'll want to do that on both sides of the vehicle. All right, with our pull wire down, let's separate the yellow and brown wires here. What we'll do is determine about how much we're going to need. Right there should be good. We'll cut that brown wire and I'm going to pull both of those brown wires up there at the same time. That's going to give me the jumper wire I need to go over to the other side. Tape the three of those off together, tape them to that pull wire, and we'll pull them up. Now we're going to start with our running light circuit here. It's going to be our two brown wires. That's going to be attached to our light blue wire here that runs to that running light bulb. Now, when we tap into that blue wire we want to be sure it is after our brake and blinker bulb. There's two blue wires that run into that and one that runs out. We need to be on the one that runs from our running light brake bulb to just the running light bulb. Do that about midway between them. Once that's stripped we want to strip each of those factory wires back, get those twisted up really nicely. Now onto the end of each one of those we can add on one of the blue female spade connectors. We also want to take our two brown wires, we're going to cut those off about equal length. We'll have a little bit of extra just so we can make the proper connections. We'll strip those back. This is where we're going to add on that yellow female spade connector. Just combine the two of those together, slide that on, and get it crimped down. Every other connection that we make for our diodes are all going to be blue. This is the only one we use the yellow for. That's so we can jump the signal from here through our other wire over to the other side. Now the brown wires coming from the RV are going to go in the inside. The blue wire that goes to our bulb goes on the outside. The other wire coming from our factory harness is going to go in on the inside. It's going to take care of the running light for the driver side. We'll do the same thing on our red wire for our brake now, but like we talked about, I'm going to use the yellow wire and three blue spade connectors. That's going to take care of the driver side here. Let's start getting all of our bulbs put back in. All right, now let's just kind of mock this up, see what kind of room we're going to have in there, where we want to put those diodes at. Looks like there's going to be plenty of room in there for them, so what we'll do is just take the double sided foam tape off the back of each of them, stick them together, and just wrap them up with a little bit of tape. This will just keep any noise to a minimum in case it happens to make contact our vehicle being back here, and this tape will also soften those sharper edges on those diodes so they don't make contact with our wiring at all. Let's put our screws back in that'll hold our housing in place. Then we'll go down to the bottom and gently pull down any slack that we might have, and we can zip tie that off underneath. Now we're going to run our brown wire up and over to the passenger side here. There's a good wire loom right across the back we can follow. Now with that over here let's tape the green wire and the brown wire off, we'll pull it up behind the housing, and basically we're going to do the exact same thing that we just did on the other side there. Just going to be replacing the yellow wire there with the green wire here, and that yellow female spade terminal is just going to be blue because we'll only have one brown wire. Now with our connections made we can just do the same thing here we did on the other side. Get our diodes stuck together, taped up, and put our housing back in place. Now we'll test out our lights. What we want to make sure everything's working properly. We'll start by turning on our taillights. Looks like those are working fine on both sides. Now we'll do the left brake, left blinker, brake, and blinker. All right, looks like everything's working as it should be. One thing you do want to keep in mind with the Captiva Sport is after you've hooked up your wiring and you've placed your vehicle in tow mode, you do want to give your vehicle 10 minutes for your brake light switch to go cold. If you try to operate your lights before that, the brake pedal in your vehicle will override your blinker. All right, now we can use the lights in our vehicle. Just want to run through those and make sure they're operating as well. We've got our running lights. We'll check our left blinker, our right blinker, and our brakes. Now with everything working properly that's going to complete our installation of the Roadmaster Universal High Powered Diode Kit, part number RM-154 on our 2015 Chevrolet Captiva Sport.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Employee Rick A
Test Fit:
Rick A
Employee Shane T
Test Fit:
Shane T
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Jared G
Test Fit:
Jared G
Employee Andrew S
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B
Employee Zack K
Video Edited:
Zack K
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Andrew L
Video Edited:
Andrew L
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Mike H
Video Edited:
Mike H
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Sue W
Video Edited:
Sue W
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Alan C
Video by:
Alan C
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Jacob H
Video by:
Jacob H
Employee Aidan B
Video by:
Aidan B
Employee Thomas T
Video by:
Thomas T
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.