Draw-Tite 7-Way Pre-Wired Car Connector Installation - 1996 Ford F-250 and F-350

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How to Install the Draw-Tite 7-Way Pre-Wired Car Connector on a 1996 Ford F-250 and F-350


Clayton: Hello, everyone. Clayton here at etrailer.com. Today, we'll be taking a look at, and I'll show you how to install the Draw-Tite seven-way, pre-wired connector on our 1996 Ford F350.Our seven-way connector is going to allow us to hook up to a lot of different trailers and leave that wiring in our bed. So we're not going to have to fold it over our tailgate or extend it if it's not long enough. It's really going to make our life a lot easier. All we have to do is splice it in to our factory seven way.Our connector is going to be made out of a durable plastic, so it's going to hold up to all weather really well.

It also has a really nice seal on the inside here to keep any dirt, debris and water from getting in our connector and grounding it out. So it's really going to hold up well on the truck bed and you're not going to have to worry about things bouncing around and hitting it. It's not going to break. It's going to sit here really nice, and it looks nice in the bed of our truck.And in terms of installation, it's really not that hard. We just have to drill a hole in the bed, drop our wires down and splice into our factory seven way.

And speaking of installation, I'll show you how easy it is to get installed on your truck.To start our installation, we want to find a good spot to mount our plug. Now our customer already had a hole drilled right here, but our plug isn't quite big enough to fit through there. So we are just going to enlarge this a little bit, just to make sure that our plug is going to fit through the hole. Now we're going to open this hole up with a two-inch hole saw. You want to try to locate a good spot that way we can make sure everything fits nicely.

We want this lip up here to be flush with this line in the bed. So if we hold it up like this, it might be easier to turn it over, and try to gauge how far down we need to drill. So it's looking like I'm going to need to drill right about here. We're going to go in really carefully just since there's already a hole in our bed.Now with this drilled out, we want to come back with a file and inaudible 00:01:58 any of those burrs around the edge. That way we don't accidentally cut ourselves when we're working with it.

Now I'm going to come back with some clear coat and just paint all these rough edges that already don't have to worry about rust in the future. Now, with our clear coat drive, we can grab our plug and make sure it fits. It fits up just like we wanted. It's flush along the top and there's no exposed hole. We can now grab our wiring harness. We're going to take our ends with the loose wires and just drop this through the hole. This will come out the bottom.We can now grab our plug and push it into our connector. Then pull and make sure it's not going to go anywhere. And I'm going to come back with some electrical tape and just tape around this connector before we fastened the whole thing to our bed. I can now push our connector through the hole. We want to push it all the way to where it's flush and you grab some self-tapping screws and just fasten this to our bed. It can be kind of tight just cause there is a little bit of tension on our plug due to where the wire is placed behind. We'll start nice and slow.Now at our second self-tapper, it seems pretty secure there. Now we'll add our last two and make our connections underneath. We'll try to shake our seven way. It seems really secure. You don't have to worry about it ripping out. Now let's go underneath and make those connections.This is where a harness dropped out. We want to route it over our frame rail. Now there is a nice body mount here that we can zip tie everything to. We're just going to reach over and drop this down. You want to stay out of the way of anything hot or moving.I'm going to zip tie our new wiring harness to this factory wiring here. Since it is kind of loose back here, we don't want to flopping around or moving. We are going to be tapping into our factory seven way, so we're going to want to strip back all of this wire loom back to here where we're going to make our connections. We're going to have plenty of room to make our connections here and a lot of room to hide all this extra wire.Our factory harness has electrical tape and these plastic, zip tie connectors. They are pretty rotted so we can just pull them off. But if they're not, you'll have to cut them off. We're not ready to make our connections. We're going to go green to green, brown to brown, yellow to yellow, blue to blue, black to black, orange to red. And then we're going to ground our white wire somewhere else, probably on this frame rail up here.We're now ready to cut off our ring terminal for our ground. We're going to strip everything back quite a bit and double it over and use a yellow heat-shrink butt connector. If you don't have butt connectors, you can find those here at etrailer.com. Some of these wires are thicker than the others, like the blue, white and the black. So we're not going to have to double those over, but the other ones I would recommend doubling them over just so they fit better in our butt connectors.With our butt connectors crimped on, we are now ready to make our connections. Our factory seven way has a diagram on the front that tells us which wire does what. So we'll start with our taillight signal and on our harness, that's going to be our brown wire. We'll look on here for our running lights. It looks like this pen up here, which comes back to the brown wire on our seven way. So we want to cut our brown wire. We'll try to do it right up here. Then we'll strip back both sides and then crimp them together. We're now ready to grab our brown wire. We're going to strip back quite a bit. We're going to twist it and double it over to fit in our yellow heat-shrink butt connector.Then we'll strip back this side and then we're going to grab our brown wire on our new harness. We're going to strip it back pretty far as well. Then what we're going to do is we're going to twist these together and then crimp them into that other side of the heat-shrink butt connector. And this will tie in our new wiring with our factory seven way. We're going to repeat this exact same process for the rest of our connections.Just like that. With all of our heat-shrink butt connectors melted down, I'm now going to take some electrical tape and just run it around this. I'm just going to start down here and work my way up. So I'm just going to grab the wire loom from our kit and work it as far up on this as I can. And I'll trim it off. We'll grab some more wire loom. If you don't have any, you can find some here at etrailer.com.With all our wiring cleaned up, we can now mount our ground. I'm going to run our ground right here. This is a good location. We can file it down a little bit, just for a better connection. Then once we get that ground mounted, we're going to come in and clean up all of our extra wiring.With everything hooked up, let's lower the truck down and test it out. With our tester hooked up, we can now check all of our functions. We'll start with our brake lights, our running lights, our left turn, and our right turn. With everything, hooked up and tested out, we're ready to hit the road and that's up to our favorite trailer. That's going to do it for our look and installation of the Draw-Tite seven way pre-wired connector on our 1996 Ford F350.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Test Fit:
Clayton O

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