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Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2019 Toyota RAV4

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on a 2019 Toyota RAV4

Rob: Rob here at And today you're going to be taking a look at the Draw Tite Class III custom fit trailer hitch receiver on our 2019 Toyota Rav 4. And here's where our hitch is going to look like once we have it installed. Now you can see it's going to have a really clean almost factory appearance to it and that's because our cross tubes can be hidden completely behind the bumper. And the main thing we're going to see is the receiver tube sticking out.Now it is going to be a Class III hitch, which means it gives us that two inch by two inch receiver tube opening, it's going to have the widest variety of accessories available for it. So if we need to move some gear to the outside, we can put a cargo carrier in there and make more room for passengers or pets.

Or if we want to hit the trails, we're could put a bike rack in there, take some bikes with us. Or put a ball mount so we can tow a trailer. But regardless of whatever accessories we're going to use, they're going to mount up using the hitch pin hole here on the side.Now our hitch is going to accept a standard five eighths pin and clip. Now these are not included with the hitch, but you can pick them up here along with some locking devices to make sure your accessories are secure. Now a lot of you might be wondering, well what is the second hole towards the receiver tube opening Well, that secondary holder is going to be exclusively for the J pin stabilization device.

Now the way this is going to work is we'll have a threaded section on one part of our J pin, and that's going to go into the hitch pin hole. And then when we go through, we'll apply the hex nut to the other side and then this other hook part is going to go into the secondary hole. And once we tighten up the nut, it's going to apply pressure to our accessory inside, keeping it from rattling around and having that annoying noise when we go down the road. Now the J pin also is a locking device, so it's going to make sure that everything's nice and secure in our hitch.And if you are towing, obviously you got to have a spot to hook up your safety chains. And our connection point is going to be a loop style, welded to the bottom of the receiver tube.

And you can see we can get most size hooks on and off with no problem or any kind of interference.Regardless of what you're going to be using your hitch for, you want to make sure that it's up for the task. Now as far as the weight rating goes, our hitch is going to have a 675 pound tongue weight. That's going to be the maximum downward force at the receiver tube. It's going to be great for some of those larger bike racks, even up to four or five bikes. And maximizing the carrying capacity of some of the larger cargo carriers.

Now as far as the gross trailer weight rating goes, we're going to have a 4,500 pound rating. That's how much our hitch can pull, including the trailer and everything we have loaded on it. Now our hitch is designed to work with weight distribution systems, as well. And that's going to be a separate component that mounts on your trailer, and both the tongue and gross vehicle weight rating are going to stay the same. But with all those numbers in mind, you do want to double check your Toyota's owner's manual because you don't want to exceed the manufacturer's recommended weight.I'd like to give you a few measurements. These are going to help you out when you're looking for accessories like a ball mount, a bike rack, or even a cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin holes to the outermost edge of the bumper, It's right about five inches. And the measurements going to help you out when you're looking at folding accessories to make sure you have enough room and they're not going to come in contact with the rear bumper. Now from the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening is going to be just over 12 inches. Now that measurement is going to help you when you're looking for a ball mount so you can find the appropriate drop or rise to match them to your trailer. But at that height, I would also recommend a bike rack or a cargo carrier that has a raised shank. That way we get a little bit more ground clearance out of it. But now that we've seen what our hitch looks like and gone over some of the features, let's get it installed together.To begin our installation, we're going to come to the very back of our Rav 4 and we'll come underneath right by our tail pipe and we'll find our frame rail. On the very side of our frame rail, we're going to have a couple stickers, kind of like these here. They're going to be covering up some threaded holes and we need a peel those off. We want to take the ones off the outside of the frame rail. We can leave all the other plugs and stickers in place. Let's take a flat blade screwdriver. You just want to scrape off that sticker. There's going to be two on the outside of our frame rail, one at the very back and then one towards the front a little bit. Want to peel the sticker off both of those on each side of the frame.Once we have all the stickers removed from the weld nuts on the frame, then take a little bit of spray lubricant. We want to spray it inside the weld nut. I'm going to come back with a nylon tube brush and I'm going to clean it out, make sure there's no dirt, debris, or rust inside so that our bolts won't cross thread when we put them in. We'll go through and we're going to clean out each one of the weld nuts in our frame on both sides. Once you do have them cleaned out, we're going to grab one of the new bolts from your kit and we're going to make sure that we can thread them in hand tight, just a few threads so we don't have to worry about it cross-threading and we know that they'll go in. We'll go back and we'll check each one of the weld nuts with our bolt. And while we're here, we can go over the combination of hardware that's going to hold our hitch up.We'll take one of our new bolts and we'll have a conical tooth washer. There's going to be some teeth on there. We want to make sure those are facing towards the hitch. Slide it over our bolt. We'll do it through the hitch and then we'll secure it directly into the weld nut frame. Now in order for us to get our hitch in place, we are going to have to lower the exhaust down, because the tips here are going to be just in the way. Before we lower it, though, I am going to put a strap up to help support it so it doesn't come down too far. Just want to find a solid connection point on the frame somewhere. I'm going going to tighten up the strap, so we'll have a little bit of tension once we start loosening everything up.We're going to come to the outer part of our muffler. On each side, we're going to have a rubber isolator attached to hanger. We're going to slide that rubber isolator off so we can have our muffler come down. So I'm going to spray a little bit of spray lubricant on the hanger and the isolator. That's just going to make it a little bit easier to come off. I'm going to take a pry bar and I'll pry against the muffler itself so we can get that isolator to slide off. Now we're going to have another one on the other end of our muffler that we'll have to loosen up, as well. And then finally, directly in front of our muffler, going towards the front of the vehicle, we'll have one more right at the rear axle. We'll do the same thing. Just soak it down with some penetrating oil and then slide that rubber isolator off. And then can always loosen up the strap a little bit so we have a little bit more room to work with.Now with an extra set of hands, we're going to lift our hitch up. You want to make sure the tabs here go on the outside of the frame. And then we'll lift it up, lining up the holes with the holes in the frame. We're going to take one piece of hardware. We're going to make sure you get it in at least hand tight on each side. That way the hitch will support itself then we get the rest of our hardware in place.Now because of the limited space over here on the passenger side, I'm going to use a ratcheting wrench to snug up the bolts, but over in the driver's side we can use a socket, just want to make sure you use a 19 millimeter when you're tightening it up.Now you want to make sure you come back with a torque wrench and we're going to torque all of our hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. We're going to repeat that for any remaining hardware that we have. Because of the limited space on the passenger side, the instructions do recommend using a crow's foot. That way we can still get in there and be able to use a torque wrench, because we're not going to be able to get the socket to fit in all the way.With our hitch torqued down, we can lift our exhaust back up and slide the isolator back onto the hanger. It will help if you put a little bit of spray lubricant on there. It'll just slide on a little bit easier.With everything back in place and tight, that'll finish up our installation and your look at the Draw Tite Class III custom fit trailer hitch receiver on our 2019 Toyota Rav 4.

Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
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Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
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Jacob T
Employee Chris R
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Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Conner L
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Conner L
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
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